Advice on broken right side cover bolt

[Pierce1989]

Good morning everyone! My '83 200E shifter had way to much play upwards, and when shifting down would just jam into the gear. The cluth adjusting screw was rusted on and wouldn't move, even with locknut completely off. I removed the right cover, cleaned oil rotor, and found that part 15 (Ball Retainer) was not in the grooves of the Lifter Cam Plate B (part 9). Seems fixed now, and I ordered a used side cover with clutch adjusting nut since it was only a few more dollars than new clutch adjusting screw.

Problem is, I broke a bolt off while removing side cover. This is the bolt under the dowel pin on right side in the picture. Then the screw extractor broke off in the bolt when trying to extract it. I don't have a strong enough drillbit and drill to get through the bolt extractor at the moment and low on cash. How could I seal this part up and leave it as is for now? I was thinking new gasket with a thin layer of oil on each side before installing, and maybe a very tiny line of Honda Bond around that one bolt? The old gasket actually doesn't look too bad, has anyone re-used this gasket and put a tiny layer of sealant on it for one more use?
257637

[Gabriel]

If you're lucky:

Pull your two clutch assemblies and disassemble the shifter parts. Then you will be able to pull the right side case spacer. With any luck there will be enough bolt sticking out to get a pair of vise grips on it. Soak the F out of it with penetrating oil first. I don't think I would put a torch to it, but if you have a heat gun, you could heat that up a bit too.

[barnett468]

Sealants won't seal to oil. I would carefully clean the old gasket off with a ravor blade or gasket scraper etc but don't gouge the surface. A thin blade screwdriver also helps at times. Once the heavy/thick portion of the gasket material is off, you car usually get the rest off with a wire brush.

Then clean the surface with lacquer thinner or brake cleaner, then with rubbing alcohol.

You can then just put a thin layer of some type of sealer like RTV on both sides of the gasket and it will never leak. Yamabond or "Hondabond" will likely work although those are intended more for use between the cases where no gasket is used. Gray high temp RTV from an auto parts store or home depot/lowes etc will definitely work but let it dry for 12 hours before putting oil in it. An FIPG sealer will also work if you happen to have any of that around.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71Gk5ivDQoL._SL1500_.jpg


This is killer sealer

.................................................. https://441py33rout1ptjxn2lupv31-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/82194.png


This is also killer but it has a short working time, meaning that it can dry too much before a part is assembled but this wouldn't be a problem for your app.

.....................................https://media.tractorsupply.com/is/image/TractorSupplyCompany/1017856?$456$

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[Gabriel]

There’s only two gaskets on this engine I EVER reuse. The pulse rotor cover and the pull rope cover.

The rest get replaced anytime I take something apart. The price of a gasket set versus an oil leak.......

[Pierce1989]

Thanks for the replies. I will just replace the gasket but do you think without some sort of sealant, that area where the bolt is broken will leak? Atleast it wasn't one of the bottom screws but it's still a little concerning. I'm probably going to need a stronger drill and high quality drill bits to drill out that bolt, just don't want to spend the money now. I already have the gasket and hoping to seal that part up so we can ride this weekend, and tackle the broken bolt next time I'm in there cleaning oil rotor/replacing clutch shoes/etc.

[barnett468]

It may or may not leak but it most likely wont hush out lime a texas oil well.

[barnett468]

Gush...........

[BarnBoy]

Thanks for the replies. I will just replace the gasket but do you think without some sort of sealant, that area where the bolt is broken will leak? Atleast it wasn't one of the bottom screws but it's still a little concerning. I'm probably going to need a stronger drill and high quality drill bits to drill out that bolt, just don't want to spend the money now. I already have the gasket and hoping to seal that part up so we can ride this weekend, and tackle the broken bolt next time I'm in there cleaning oil rotor/replacing clutch shoes/etc.

Get some left hand drill bits. Chances are you'll be able to get it out using those. BE CAREFUL with ez outs....if they break in the hole you're screwed. I wouldn't recommend them. Most of the time a reverse drill bit will take them out. I got mine at AutoZone for $10.

[BarnBoy]

Sealants won't seal to oil. I would carefully clean the old gasket off with a ravor blade or gasket scraper etc but don't gouge the surface. A thin blade screwdriver also helps at times. Once the heavy/thick portion of the gasket material is off, you car usually get the rest off with a wire brush.

Then clean the surface with lacquer thinner or brake cleaner, then with rubbing alcohol.

You can then just put a thin layer of some type of sealer like RTV on both sides of the gasket and it will never leak. Yamabond or "Hondabond" will likely work although those are intended more for use between the cases where no gasket is used. Gray high temp RTV from an auto parts store or home depot/lowes etc will definitely work but let it dry for 12 hours before putting oil in it. An FIPG sealer will also work if you happen to have any of that around.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71Gk5ivDQoL._SL1500_.jpg


This is killer sealer

.................................................. https://441py33rout1ptjxn2lupv31-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/82194.png


This is also killer but it has a short working time, meaning that it can dry too much before a part is assembled but this wouldn't be a problem for your app.

.....................................https://media.tractorsupply.com/is/image/TractorSupplyCompany/1017856?$456$

.
.

Would you recommend this kind of sealant between case halves? Like putting a very thin coat of sealant on the gasket and then installing? I had some permatex stuff I used for chainsaw clamshells but it likes to set up really fast.

[Xhumeka]

Man that SUCKS.... i've been there, I know. When an "ez-out" breaks it's then anything BUT an easy out :( I don't think you'll stand much of a chance drilling that out, those things are TOUGH.

If the reverse drill bit doesn't work what most will likely suggest is trying to tig/mig-weld enough bits onto the existing bolt/ezout (either from top or bottom) to get a grip with vice-grips to try to turn it out.

Good luck - I say try to get that sucker out if you can... keep us posted!!

[Gabriel]

Can't remember off the top of my head but is that broken bolt in a blind hole? Many of the case bolts are open on the backside which will let you soak it in some Kroil or Liquid Wrench to help get it out. You get that case spacer off first and see what you're working with. I would not try to get it out working through the dowel.

[twomanytoys]

I have had busted studs edm/mdm removed before. Was not very costly and they got the steel stud out of an aluminum head without messing up the threads. Was pretty impressed.

https://electroarc.com/difference-mdm-edm/

[Pierce1989]

Can't remember off the top of my head but is that broken bolt in a blind hole? Many of the case bolts are open on the backside which will let you soak it in some Kroil or Liquid Wrench to help get it out. You get that case spacer off first and see what you're working with. I would not try to get it out working through the dowel.

Nope, it's not a blind hole. If I remember correctly it goes through the right side cover, the spacer, and then the case but there is an opening on the backside. I bent the dowel because it was so rusted, a new one is arriving tomorrow in the mail. Even with the manual I am hesitant to remove any of the clutch parts to get the spacer off, with the reasoning being what just happened! It seems like everytime I work on the right side of one of these almost 40 year old machines that someone probably has never opened the cover before me, one of the bolts breaks. Does this happen to you? I was using a socket, seemed like the bolt was turning but it was really just twisting itself till broken. Do you use socket wrench, 12 point or 6 point hand wrench, or do you use an impact driver for these side cover bolts??

[barnett468]

You are far, far, better off not trying to drill that out cuz the potential to f up the gasket surface is very high. It is not a structural area where a screw is really needed. All the screw does is help keep the gasket from leaking.
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