Progressive Spring Kit for 85 250R

[DDQ]

I see that the the 85 R has two oem fork springs and the 86 R has one. I am confused that the progressive spring kit is the same for the 85 and 86. Does the progressive kit replace the two 85 oem springs with one or am I just not seeing the 85 kit which should have two springs per fork?

[atc300r]

The progressive spring replaces the 2 oem spings on the 85.

[DDQ]

Thank you.

In your opinion, does the progresseive spring make a noticeable difference given that I will be replacing seals and oil anyway or is the oil weight the bigger factor in performance?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Dirtcrasher]

The OEM springs get tired after all these years of being pre-loaded.

I honestly would say just changing the oil to a 15wt fork oil will benefit you the most, but I normally often swap over to progressives springs at the same time.

If we weren't so afraid of changing things up, there are other springs/rates, and emulators that can be purchased and they are very adjustable.

Seems like lots of work, but once you're dialed in, you are all set!!

[floydechoes2000]

I ride my 350X in the rocky, rooted woods of New England, I immediately noticed a huge improvement after swapping to progressive springs. I don't even feel the small rocks and roots that used to deflect my front tire with the stock setup. For my type of riding it was a night and day difference, your mileage may vary.

[yaegerb]

Thank you.

In your opinion, does the progresseive spring make a noticeable difference given that I will be replacing seals and oil anyway or is the oil weight the bigger factor in performance?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

They absolutely do. Especially if you are heavier, ride more complicated terrain or jump. I have used several sets and the work better when you abuse them.

[DDQ]

The OEM springs get tired after all these years of being pre-loaded.

I honestly would say just changing the oil to a 15wt fork oil will benefit you the most, but I normally often swap over to progressives springs at the same time.

If we weren't so afraid of changing things up, there are other springs/rates, and emulators that can be purchased and they are very adjustable.

Seems like lots of work, but once you're dialed in, you are all set!!Who makes other springs?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

Thank you.

In your opinion, does the progresseive spring make a noticeable difference given that I will be replacing seals and oil anyway or is the oil weight the bigger factor in performance?


Just curious as to what you don't like about the stock setup and what you are hoping to achieve with the progressive springs.

Oil level also affects performance. Air can also be added to the forks to change how they perform, but air can mix with the oil some after around 20 minutes of hard riding causing the damping to be reduced. Dry nitrogen does not mix as easily.

.

[DDQ]

Just curious as to what you don't like about the stock setup and what you are hoping to achieve with the progressive springs.

Oil level also affects performance. Air can also be added to the forks to change how they perform, but air can mix with the oil some after around 20 minutes of hard riding causing the damping to be reduced. Dry nitrogen does not mix as easily.

.My fork seals are blown which is how they were when I bought the bike. I do not know anything except that they bounce up and down over and over when I push down on the front end


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

My fork seals are blown which is how they were when I bought the bike. I do not know anything except that they bounce up and down over and over when I push down on the front end


What is your skill level?

What type of riding will you be doing?

Are you on a budget?

I'm sure the progressive springs will be nice as others have mentioned, but if you are on a budget, and are a recreational rider, the stock forks aren't bad at all, and I would be more concerned about the rear end and put money there if I had to choose between the two.

The fork springs are extremely easy to change, and since you haven't ridden the bike yet, it seems unnecessary to me to try and fix a problem that may not exist in your particular case before you even ride it with properly functioning stock forks.

.




.

[DDQ]

I weigh 210 lbs and ride aggressively on trail, dunes and plan to race mx.
I have pulled the rear shock off and it is going out for a revalve this week.
I am a long time quad rider and run long travel custom axis suspension on my banshee for the same type of riding.
I have a 350x with stock fork setup and it is way too soft.
So based od dirtcrashers comment, I am very curious if progressive springs are my only option or if stiffer springs are available.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

ok, you will probably want a stiffer rear spring, but i would try it first with the revalve, although i could easily bottom a stock rear 86 250r shock back in 86, and i only weigh 155 lbs.

the stock fork springs are definitely too soft for you. as far as stiffer springs then the progressive ones being available, i wouldn't know, but someone else here may, however, you can call race tech also and ask them about both front and rear springs and see what they say, as they may be familiar with the progressive rate ones. eibach may make you some custom springs as well.

http://www.racetech.com/

https://eibach.com/us/

.

[christph]

I like Progressive springs a lot because they are, well, progressive. They are wound in such a way where they have good small bump compliance but ramp up with big hits and jumps. Some kits come with adjustable spacers, i.e., pvc tubing you cut to length depending on your weight. I always start long and cut them down until I get the feel I want. You can also buy cartridge emulators from Race Tech. They give you even more adjustability. They sit on top of the damping rod and allow you to adjust the oil flow (compression damping). You have to drill out the damping rod holes, though, so they are no longer the limiting factor. Race Tech has some good videos about their emulators on youtube.

[Tri-Z 250]

If you're taking in the rear for service, take the forks with ya. Do both to full race spec to your weight. Depending on your Vendor(susp/service) has or may have an alternative in Spring Co. I like my Progressive fork Springs over stock on the MX setup I run a solid spacer and replace to top Spring(for a Tri Z) to add extra stiffness.

[DDQ]

What benefit does a spacer offer and where does it go?
I plan to send the rear to Rocket Ron in Indiana and want to do the forks myself. I have already ordered the fork oil and seals.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[christph]

What benefit does a spacer offer and where does it go?
I plan to send the rear to Rocket Ron in Indiana and want to do the forks myself. I have already ordered the fork oil and seals.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

You use spacers to preload the fork springs but only if you need to. The longer the spacer, the more preload. The length you use depends on your weight, type of riding, etc. They sit on the top of the spring under the fork cap.

[DDQ]

You use spacers to preload the fork springs, but only if you need to. The longer the spacer, the more preload. The length you use depends on your weight, type of riding, etc.Oh I see. Thanks!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

If the spacer acts the same as preload collars on a coil shock and do not limit suspension travel, how does the factory springs with spacers compare to the progressive spring with no spacers? It would be stiffer through more of the travel than the progressive spring which could allow a thicker oil for slowing rebound and offer suspension which would be stiffer through a broader range of the stroke, right?


The rear is boxed up and ready to go to Ron.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190211/3e90b453800ce2a93401b7384aafbacf.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

If the spacer acts the same as preload collars on a coil shock and do not limit suspension travel, how does the factory springs with spacers compare to the progressive spring with no spacers? It would be stiffer through more of the travel than the progressive spring which could allow a thicker oil for slowing rebound and offer suspension which would be stiffer through a broader range of the stroke, right?


The rebound curve is directly related to the spring rate curve.

.

[barnett468]

.
If you wanted fancy forks you can put these on, but they are pricey. Those footpegs are also popular.


....................https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-1/c2.0.960.960a/p960x960/20643554_1872029243046236_1447994837554218862_o.jp g?_nc_cat=101&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=9a2fcd14958005e7ae8f58ffb25faeb5&oe=5CF829B7

.

[DDQ]

Is standard 2" pvc pipe the material used to make spacers?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

Is standard 2" pvc pipe the material used to make spacers?



Yes you can use pvc pipe.


Here's one type of upside down forks some people have put on their 250r's, for sale on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-KTM-SX85-Front-Forks-Triple-Tree-Fly-Handlebar-and-Pad-and-Fork-Guards/323667517847?hash=item4b5c166197:g:QAUAAOSwwZxcJSF f:rk:17:pf:0


Fork conversion thread.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/105653-250r-INVERTED-FORKS

................................http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84216&d=1247536067

.

[DDQ]

Thank you for the help.

I am going to rebuild my stock forks and see how they feel. The inverted forks are very cool but that is a bit more than I want to spend on this area of my build.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Arky-X]

.
If you wanted fancy forks you can put these on, but they are pricey. Those footpegs are also popular.



.

What pegs and heel guards are those?
Rath?

[barnett468]

What pegs and heel guards are those?
Rath?

The pegs are from WMD or Wicked Metal Designs, you can contact them thru the facebook link below. If you do not have a facebook account, I can contact them for you. I don't know if they make the guards or not. If they don't I can ask the owner of the bike who makes them if you want.

https://www.facebook.com/Wicked-Metal-Designs-LLC-1539909789602493/

.

[barnett468]

What pegs and heel guards are those?
Rath?

I would think that other companies like possibly HRE ATV make pegs and guards for the 250r also, however, since I am actually a Kawi guy, because...(wait for it)........The Tecate Is The Most Powerful 3 Wheeler In The Universe...and does not need aftermarket parts to make it "raceable", I don't know much about what is available for the 250r and other honda vehicles. :)

http://www.hreatv.com/Contact.html

[Arky-X]

I would think that other companies like possibly HRE ATV make pegs and guards for the 250r also, however, since I am actually a Kawi guy, because...(wait for it)........The Tecate Is The Most Powerful 3 Wheeler In The Universe...and does not need aftermarket parts to make it "raceable", I don't know much about what is available for the 250r and other honda vehicles. :)

http://www.hreatv.com/Contact.html

I got a set of pegs for my 350X from WMD. Trying to figure out some heel guards too.

Hmmm, Tecate you say? Never heard that before......tell us more! :D

[barnett468]

A spacer takes up any free play and can be cut to length to get the preload you desire.

[DDQ]

I just took the black plastic for caps off and found this on one side. How bad is it?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190212/8fa5ff933c1fd72518dcb30597658952.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

I just took the black plastic for caps off and found this on one side. How bad is it?Yeah, that’s not good. What was holding the plastic cap on? It is supposed to screw onto the top of the valve stem via the external threads on the stem, but I dont see any remaining. Is the rest of the valve stem still inside the plastic fork cap? If the valve stem’s internal threads are still intact, and you can screw in a new schrader valve, you might be able to salvage that fork cap, or I would start searching for a new/used one.

[Red Rider]

Another option is to drill out the old valve stem, and install a new metal valve stem.

[DDQ]

The cap was just resting on it. There was a self tapping screw in the hole.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

The cap was just resting on it. There was a self tapping screw in the hole.


There are mainly 2 types of schrader valves for fork caps. One is pipe thread and the other is straight thread with an o ring. I'm pretty sue that your forks used the pipe thread type but the honda guys here could tell you for sure or I could just not be lazy and look it up.

If the threads in the cap are a little messed up, you can buy a pipe thread tap from most hardware stores for around $6.00. Put some WD40 or lite grade oil on the threads then thread it in until it gets moderately hard to turn, then stop. Remove the tap and clean the hole and hope the valve does not thread in until the hex bottoms out on the top of the fork tube nut. If it does, it will likely not hold air if you need to try running some air to keep the forks from bottoming. It also might weep a tiny bit of oil. If the valve bottoms out and leaks some, it could probably be fixed with teflon thread sealer tape or teflon thread sealer paste, or rtv silicone, but you might be able to find a decent on on ebay fairly cheap or someone here might have one.

.................................................. ...........https://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server3400/41922/products/41/images/1817/KRAVASS__64566.1309416316.1280.1280__09840.1497045 721.500.659.jpg?c=2

.................................................. ..https://www.bigshocks.com/images/Big-Shocks-Schrader-Valve.JPG


.

[DDQ]

The top of the threads are stripped but the bottom half look kind of OK.
I think to be safe I would rather just drill out the hole, tap it and thread in a new valve. Can anyone tell me what the next size larger valve would be? Are they available at tire shops by chance?


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190213/4ddf5186a6155bac04444dfeb075dd28.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190213/50d89682f1ee02de1ca8415c36adca41.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

There are mainly 2 types of schrader valves for fork caps. One is pipe thread and the other is straight thread with an o ring. I'm pretty sue that your forks used the pipe thread type but the honda guys here...
Some people here consider me a Honda guy. The valve stem is actually molded into the fork cap, so drilling it out completely, and slipping a new valve stem through, or drilling and tapping threads as you suggested is the only way I see this fork cap being salvaged.

[barnett468]

Some people here consider me a Honda guy.

Yes, so you are certainly one of the many that can answer that question as you just did.

.

[Red Rider]

The top of the threads are stripped but the bottom half look kind of OK.
I think to be safe I would rather just drill out the hole, tap it and thread in a new valve. Can anyone tell me what the next size larger valve would be? Are they available at tire shops by chance?A typical metal valve stem, that you slip through a hole, and tighten a nut on the other side would be available at a tire shop, but I cant say about the thread-in type. That low-profile, thread-in type, with standard threads, that Barns posted, would work pretty slick, as it would probably still enable the plastic fork cap to be used, to conceal the repaired stem which would be hiding underneath.

[barnett468]

The top of the threads are stripped but the bottom half look kind of OK.
I think to be safe I would rather just drill out the hole, tap it and thread in a new valve. Can anyone tell me what the next size larger valve would be? Are they available at tire shops by chance?


Below is just one option in a worst case scenario if you need it.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTum5NeBIOH9RMOqhsvhJCga9E4J3IMZ nf8fCOGKKI52cjt3zaVew

[DDQ]

Thank you.

I am in contact with someone who MIGHT have a used cap for me. I should know for sure tomorrow but buying one of the valves above is my back up plan.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

Hmmm, Tecate you say? Never heard that before......tell us more! :D

..............................................http s://pics.me.me/you-want-the-truth-you-cant-handle-the-truth-diylol-com-28307308.png

[El Camexican]

because...(wait for it)........The Tecate Is The Most Powerful 3 Wheeler In The Universe...

What took you so long?

[barnett468]

What took you so long?

I had to wait for the right opportunity.

[barnett468]

.
I just got this message back from the owner of the bike I posted.

The forks are off a 2001 cr250r & they are shorten about 2 inches to give the proper ride height. The rear shock was built by BDT Motorsports.

I run two different race trikes. Only one of them has the inverted forks. Although the inverted forks have more adjustability- they are not that much better than the stock forks that have been rebuilt by BDT Motorsports. The inverted forks were definitely not worth the extra $ in my opinion.

The hand cone pipes were built by Kenny Robert's - he builds the best performing 3 wheeler pipes in my opinion.

.

[barnett468]

This is the latest message from the guy that owns the bike I posted a photo of. He is referring to the stock forks in this particular reply.

"I have only ran the BDT built forks. They use stiffer & progressive springs as well as they change the valving in the forks = huge improvement over stock. I have heard others say they are happy with race tech as well. A lot of the after market rear trx shocks can be used on the rear of a 250r three Wheeler as well. The custom rear BDT shock was not that expensive & performs amazing."

[DDQ]

I was unable to find a used fork cap so I will be drilling out and installing a schrader valve this weekend. I will report nack exactly what I use


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

I was unable to find a used fork cap so I will be drilling out and installing a schrader valve this weekend. I will report nack exactly what I use


I found one in less than 10 seconds using google, but imo, based on the $49.95 asking price, the seller is smokin crack.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333072041610

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/p0IAAOSwAn9cZFGY/s-l1600.jpg

.

[ironchop]

I was unable to find a used fork cap so I will be drilling out and installing a schrader valve this weekend. I will report nack exactly what I use


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using TapatalkYou got me wondering so I went and looked in a big box of spares I had....I cleaned it up just a little bit. The Schrader is straight and everything looks to have good threads

What's your shipping address? You can have it for free if it will save you the headache of all that work and if you promise to pay it forward to someone else(PM me)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190221/435ae9e356c760e9b9455f74ba2a8ae4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190221/b56f93bd2b35ec2918b9baf3c60a1874.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190221/6d37a3c3838f9c34f22f9b5ec58452cf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190221/c62872680f0738caed570b10a2d79638.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190221/bfb3a0074fb99a47aa6c5fb92594733a.jpg

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

You got me wondering so I went and looked in a big box of spares I had....I cleaned it up just a little bit. The Schrader is straight and everything looks to have good threads

What's your shipping address? You can have it for free if it will save you the headache of all that work and if you promise to pay it forward to someone else(PM me)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190221/435ae9e356c760e9b9455f74ba2a8ae4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190221/b56f93bd2b35ec2918b9baf3c60a1874.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190221/6d37a3c3838f9c34f22f9b5ec58452cf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190221/c62872680f0738caed570b10a2d79638.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190221/bfb3a0074fb99a47aa6c5fb92594733a.jpg

Sent from my Z958 using TapatalkPM sent! Thank you so much!

I will certainly pay it forward.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[ironchop]

Package inbound, good luck!

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

The mail man came today and made me happy. I am going to try to do the forks after work this week but they might have to wait until Saturday if I get busy.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190304/9fa45f13578a90a3c6181e6b47402002.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

I loostened the lower allen bolts then pulled the forks off. I plan to start following the manual now and hope I can finish tonight.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190306/37fb6f52b8866739777898bade1a94a4.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

This is all the oil that came out of the right fork. The left fork was dry.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190306/dc633fb32ef72280368ea2ec4843c92b.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

Apart.

I spent 30 minutes wrestling with the snap rings.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190306/e96e7bc6be5f0a5532311030b6564c1a.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

Cleaned, back together and about to loctite and install the bottom allen bolt.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190306/ed38d512c4be8c27b17c3e162b418574.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Dirtcrasher]

I always replace the lower damping rod piston "ring", it's the seal... And still available.

I only change the bushings when they are sloppy, and just to warn everyone, the Honda bushings are disappearing quick, and I haven't found them elsewhere.

Barnett may have a suggestion on the bushings, they are just a coated bronze split bushing, I figured ANY suspension shop could get them, but I don't know...

And if you leave it all stock, I suggest a thicker fork oil, again, let Barnett chime in because when I ask for 15wt at my local dealer, they look at me like I'm a moron; (guess they know me well) :D

[yaegerb]

I always replace the lower damping rod piston "ring", it's the seal... And still available.

I only change the bushings when they are sloppy, and just to warn everyone, the Honda bushings are disappearing quick, and I haven't found them elsewhere.

Barnett may have a suggestion on the bushings, they are just a coated bronze split bushing, I figured ANY suspension shop could get them, but I don't know...

And if you leave it all stock, I suggest a thicker fork oil, again, let Barnett chime in because when I ask for 15wt at my local dealer, they look at me like I'm a moron; (guess they know me well) :D

15? I use 20 you lightweight :)

[DDQ]

Done!

I went with 20 weight. I also cut one of the short oem springs in half and put them on top of the progressive springs. If it sucks after riding I'll remove them.
Hopefully the new fork boots will be here tomorrow so I can mount them. The whole ordeal took about 2.5 hours and most of it was cleaning. I went through three cans of brake parts cleaner.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190307/fe75f43d8e8adf25881ae803371a85dd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190307/2ab2db64b5b303f177c2f56f6452821a.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[HondaRidr]

I'm excited to hear your ride report on the springs. I didn't know the progressive springs were available still.

[barnett468]

Done! I went with 20 weight.

The TECATE forks only would have needed 10w for your app. https://www.mustang.org.au/forum/Smileys/smilies/bolt.gif

[DDQ]

The TECATE forks only would have needed 10w for your app. https://www.mustang.org.au/forum/Smileys/smilies/bolt.gifThe best forks in the world can't help a bike that won't crank.


[emoji50]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

The best forks in the world can't help a bike that won't crank.


ouch! https://www.mustang.org.au/forum/Smileys/smilies/hysterical.gif

[DDQ]

Forks are back on! Now I am just waiting on the pipe to arrive.

Is this the correct path for the clutch cable? It seems like it will be too short at full right turn.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190308/c84584a8dd3d07e3e0a8504a9b55e955.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190308/4079a58eda8ee57168b24e111125c223.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190308/89b271250a2e01aa74ecba9148f63260.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

Is this the correct path for the clutch cable? It seems like it will be too short at full right turn.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190308/4079a58eda8ee57168b24e111125c223.jpgNot quite, but no too far off either. It should go in front of the top triple-clamp, then through the welded on wire guide (in front of radiator, near the top), then it goes above notch in radiator protector grill, and in front of the bottom radiator-to-frame mounting bolt, and behind bolt below the radiator (this bolt should be holding a cable guide for the clutch cable as well).

[DDQ]

Not quite, but no too far off either. It should go in front of the top triple-clamp, then through the welded on wire guide (in front of radiator, near the top), then it goes above notch in radiator protector grill, and in front of the bottom radiator-to-frame mounting bolt, and behind bolt below the radiator (this bolt should be holding a cable guide for the clutch cable as well).I can not see the welded on wire guide in front of the radiator. Can you circle it?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190308/26a7584cc8281ec0fae3684ba9009410.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

I can not see the welded on wire guide in front of the radiator. Can you circle it?No need to circle it, as you're going through it already.

[barnett468]

.
Here's the factory routing diagram for an 85 plus another photo..

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/79904-Cable-Routing-Diagrams-ATC250R-This-is-for-you-Kintore


https://dirtwheelsmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/image5.jpg
.

[DDQ]

.
Here's the factory routing diagram for an 85 plus another photo..

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/79904-Cable-Routing-Diagrams-ATC250R-This-is-for-you-Kintore


https://dirtwheelsmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/image5.jpg
.Thanks!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

Are there fender supports that these knobs rest on? I do not see any on the parts diagram.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190308/a9bdde89a2f4f361cd0b0b5a98950461.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

Are there fender supports that these knobs rest on? I do not see any on the parts diagram.No, there are no fender supports on the frame. If those are OEM fenders, there is a support rod that slips into both knob's holes (L & R side of fenders), and bolts to the bottom side of the fenders. Look at the parts fiche for the rear fenders, and you'll see what I'm talking about. I don't believe aftermarket (Maier) fenders have provisions to mount the support rod though.

[DDQ]

No, there are no fender supports on the frame. If those are OEM fenders, there is a support rod that slips into both knob's holes (L & R side of fenders), and bolts to the bottom side of the fenders. Look at the parts fiche for the rear fenders, and you'll see what I'm talking about. I don't believe aftermarket (Maier) fenders have provisions to mount the support rod though.That is what I needed to know. Thank you.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

I spent a couple hours trying to figure out how to get an air filter to mount to the 36pwk.
A trip to lowes and some thin steel pipe got me here which is enough to attach a uni filter and outerwear to one more piece of steel pipe.

I did discover I do not have all the rear brake parts I need. I am missing the spring, connecter arm and whatever else goes between the pedal and master cyl.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/fd7351ebeec072d4b37c8d3b90e576d7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/99e71a139e91119197c090f7e82090b5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/1a6a14f60e569504003191504ada90c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/55cf77d1c900b8372d820e9d09b44b86.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

I did discover I do not have all the rear brake parts I need. I am missing the spring, connecter arm and whatever else goes between the pedal and master cyl.Yes, you need the spring, splined brake push arm, and then brake rod pin, washer, and cotter pin to connect it to the rear master cylinder.

[DDQ]

Installing front brakes.

I found this in my parts bucket and got excited but I think it is for a banshee.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/a3fc3e3488ec3c5b2a17fb065728dcf2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/286ce334d05420f2ca9adbbccf567bd5.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

I'm not sure what bike that spring is for, but it's not the correct one for your 250R.

Here's what you're looking for:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-1986-HONDA-ATC250R-250R-REAR-BRAKE-LEVER-SPRING-PEDAL-CALIPER-85-86-22977/233160412793?hash=item3649718e79:g:SAMAAOSwBKBcfxf J&frcectupt=true

[DDQ]

Can anyone offer advice for removing a stuck piston from the rear master cylinder?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190316/0cb5be9f60cff2f1ddeb95bc18275417.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[yaegerb]

Blow compressed air in at the banjo fitting.

[DDQ]

Blow compressed air in at the banjo fitting.That won't budge it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

Got it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190316/f662ddea381cbe6db5a5caca7f8b95a6.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

I got my used ESR pipe today. I put it on but the pipe is not even close to fitting completely over the BOSS billent flange. It barely reaches the 2nd oring and the pipe hits the frame. Should I run it like this or am I missing something?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190328/f6419a1e9049e719eaa2f4b67564788f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190328/eb3025173bb2952b23919d35876c2593.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

Something isn't right with that pipe. It definitely shouldn't be rubbing against the frame like that. Is the billet exhaust flange bottoming out inside the exhaust pipe's flange, or is there still room to slide on if it weren't for the pipe hitting the frame?

[DDQ]

Something isn't right with that pipe. It definitely shouldn't be rubbing against the frame like that. Is the billet exhaust flange bottoming out inside the exhaust pipe's flange, or is there still room to slide on if it weren't for the pipe hitting the frame?The pipe flange would fit completely over the billet flange if the pipe was not hitting the frame.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[fieldy]

That pipe could be off a smaller cc motor. Does it look like the same basic size as your old one? Maybe you didn't have a pipe to start with. I bought a pipe for a 250 once and it must of come off a kx100 or smaller kx, quickly sent it back in the mail.
Just something to consider, i am not familiar with the billet piece or the 250r.

[DDQ]

It looks like some others have had the same issue. I do not have anther pipe to compare to.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190329/adc26c82676aa7faeed6596fb84cd3a8.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

It looks like some others have had the same issue. I do not have anther pipe to compare to.I wonder if ESR's pipes are designed to be used with their aftermarket cylinders (Pro-X, I believe), and if used with one of their cylinders, this wouldn't be an issue?

[DDQ]

ESR was very helpful...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190329/c9359465351ada8240952d41a650cea0.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190329/e4112605f286c2a8fa54df214a159f20.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

If you want to run that pipe, it looks like a 1/4" - 3/8" thick aluminum spacer, 2 exhaust flange gaskets, and longer exhaust flange bolts would keep the pipe from vibrating against the frame.

Or, possibly grind away the welds on the exhaust pipe's spigot, move it out to the proper distance from the rest of the pipe, and then re-weld.

[DDQ]

If you want to run that pipe, it looks like a 1/4" - 3/8" thick aluminum spacer, 2 exhaust flange gaskets, and longer exhaust flange bolts would keep the pipe from vibrating against the frame.

Or, possibly grind away the welds on the exhaust pipe's spigot, move it out to the proper distance from the rest of the pipe, and then re-weld.Can I use standard paper gasket material or will it get too hot for that?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Red Rider]

Can I use standard paper gasket material or will it get too hot for that?The last ones I got from Honda were metal, but they used to be paper, and I never had any issues with those, so yeah, paper should be fine.

It sounds like you're going to make a spacer, to move the billet exhaust flange out further from the cylinder. If so, don't forget to make a big hole in the middle of it. :p

[DDQ]

Well, I can't use an angle grinder.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190330/3ce78ee4d9b8d966ee3973edf7a6b85c.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Shep1970]

Make your piece out of a wood block exactly how you’d want it and send it up to mass. I’ll cast one out of aluminum for you just for shipping cost. I’m always looking for a reason to cast something....just need a pattern to copy
Assuming u need a 3/8 or 1/2 inch spacer or more of some kind
Shep

[twomanytoys]

If thats aluminum any wood tool (jig saw etc) will cut it nicely.

[DDQ]

Make your piece out of a wood block exactly how you’d want it and send it up to mass. I’ll cast one out of aluminum for you just for shipping cost. I’m always looking for a reason to cast something....just need a pattern to copy
Assuming u need a 3/8 or 1/2 inch spacer or more of some kind
ShepThank you for the offer shep!

The big hole in the middle is proving to be an issue. I don't have anything that can turn that sharp, even for cutting wood.

I do have access to plasma cutter and cutting the piece out of steel may be the best I can do.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[twomanytoys]

This will cut that aluminum.https://www.harborfreight.com/32-amp-variable-speed-jig-saw-69436.html
Or get on craigslist tools section bet there is at least 5 sub 10 dollar jigsaws on there where you are!

[DDQ]

I cut this with a plasma cutter and am sending it to Shep in the AM to be cast with aluminum!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190331/4791f28d1812e974e54aee2a13c6c212.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190331/ce35b4623c25d948b8dc423a2453db5c.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Shep1970]

I didn’t use your steel plasma one u cut;) I needed something a bit more smooooth. So if time allows me I’ll get this cast today. 258119 258120 258121 258122

I’ll post pics when done.

Shep

[Shep1970]

Well, a little clean up and I’ll get it in the mail-258135 258136 258137 258138

The orange one is my wood pattern, painted it so the sand wouldn’t stick as easy- and made it smoother.
I’ll drill the 3 holes Sunday on the drill press-I just have to make a path to get to it (garage needs a cleaning)
258139

Shep

[DDQ]

Well, a little clean up and I’ll get it in the mail-258135 258136 258137 258138

The orange one is my wood pattern, painted it so the sand wouldn’t stick as easy- and made it smoother.
I’ll drill the 3 holes Sunday on the drill press-I just have to make a path to get to it (garage needs a cleaning)
258139

ShepWOW!!!!!!!!!! Shep, I hate that you spent so much time on this but thank you!!! That looks so much better than the steel one I cut! My holes didn't line up quite right either...I can't wait to see it!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Shep1970]

Done, when installing line up the black marker lines you’ll see. It fits all three ways but lines up best where marked.
I’ll throw away your steel plate template if that’s ok? I can ship it out Monday am. It was fun doing this just pass help along to someone else sometime.
258148 258149 258150 258151

The one single oring between the two will work as intended.
Your welcome:beer
You will need a gasket between head+flange though still.

Shep

[DDQ]

Done, when installing line up the black marker lines you’ll see. It fits all three ways but lines up best where marked.
I’ll throw away your steel plate template if that’s ok? I can ship it out Monday am. It was fun doing this just pass help along to someone else sometime.
258148 258149 258150 258151

The one single oring between the two will work as intended.
Your welcome:beer
You will need a gasket between head+flange though still.

ShepThank you!! Yes, throw the junk that I made away.
I am stoked to mount it up!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[twomanytoys]

Wow excellent work!!

[DDQ]

Shep did an amazing job, it fits great!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190410/be626f59dd999c140c8b61be095178ac.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190410/007705fc9f9c82246445f727d6f3d459.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190410/9679110275a6f0233912042044dc3a49.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

I just spend an hour at a shoo trying to get help bleeding my rear brakes after rebuilding the master cylinder. We could not get any pressure at the end of the line and there seems to be air and fluid leaking out of the bottom of the master around the rod. How can it be leaking there? I cleaned the cyl very well and followed the manual rebuilding it


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

Its leaking past the seal in the master.

[DDQ]

Just as a final update...

I completed the build a couple weeks ago and finally did a few minutes of riding to jet the 36 pwk. I settled at 48/ 165.

My first real ride on it will be Friday for practice at the South of the Border MX national. I am going to race it Saturday. I just want to thank Shep one more time for the hard work on the exhaust spacer and I am SO excited to have a running, riding 250!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190508/3905929a82b22c69bddc8fe9546f3378.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190508/b70b753ec9ff5215fc0108a1006690e8.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk