Tri-Z Stator Removal

[Just-Tri-It]

Any tips on the best way to remove the two Phillip heads screws that mount the stator to the casing. Don't think they have ever been removed because it was on its original 68 bore.
Don't want to round off the heads. Thought about a hammer driver but don't want to hurt casing.
Thanks for any helpful suggestions.

[twomanytoys]

Nothing better at getting soft jap phillps screws out than an impact screw driver that I have found. Just start off easy...then gradually hit it harder till she spins loose or strips and gets drilled out. Couple heat cycles on the screw with a small pencil torch helps sometimes too.

[Just-Tri-It]

And a good way to pull a seal without a seal puller as such?

[shortline10]

A drywall screw and a claw hammer:


And a good way to pull a seal without a seal puller as such?

[El Camexican]

Those are JIT screws, not Phillips. Using Phillips screw drivers on them is what fudges them up.

Have you got the flywheel off? If so, try heating the heads with a propane torch. Don't get nuts and melt anything, just get them hot and try to remove them with a JIT tool.

Don't have the JIT? You can use and impact driver with a Phillips fitting and hammer, but "tap" the driver, don't John Henry it though the cases.

When you go to reassemble try using Allen Head socket caps screws with some anti-seize, BUT you will have to grind the tops of the screws down, or the flywheel will contact it and the engine wont turn, (or worse).

[Just-Tri-It]

Thanks. Got them out. I had the puller for the flywheel that mad it easy to pull.
The seal looks good but it prolly bad because when the carb float stuck while sitting it filled the crank area with gas. I took the stator cover off and gas flowed out like an oil well. I do t think gas would have passed by the seal and entered the stator area if it was worn. Anyhow in doing a tip end and am changing the seals too while I'm at it.

[El Camexican]

Do a pressure test, time well spent on any 2 stroke.

[Just-Tri-It]

Is an air impact wrench the best way to get the big nut loosen on the right side. Manual says put a piece of lead between the gears but I don't have that. A piece of rug won't stop it completely. Thanks

[ironchop]

Is an air impact wrench the best way to get the big nut loosen on the right side. Manual says put a piece of lead between the gears but I don't have that. A piece of rug won't stop it completely. ThanksUse a (copper) penny. I'll bet you got one of those laying around

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[shortline10]

I always use an air impact when loosing the crank and clutch nuts .
Is an air impact wrench the best way to get the big nut loosen on the right side. Manual says put a piece of lead between the gears but I don't have that. A piece of rug won't stop it completely. Thanks

[Just-Tri-It]

Got her in. I noticed that the gear shifter infer the basket at the bottom pushes out against the case cover at the bottom. Seems I remember there was a procedure to make it slide back to the left side and stay there and not push out against the cover. Or is that normal?

[El Camexican]

Got her in. I noticed that the gear shifter infer the basket at the bottom pushes out against the case cover at the bottom. Seems I remember there was a procedure to make it slide back to the left side and stay there and not push out against the cover. Or is that normal?

You lost me. Is your clutch cover off? I don’t recall any issues keeping the shaft in place.

If it is you might want to change the spring that looks like a C clip on the worm that draws it back in after you kick the engine over. That’s the one that takes out the clutch cover when it gets loose. They cost like $5.00 bucks, covers are creeping up on $300

[Just-Tri-It]

Yes I took the cover off to replace the right crank seal too. And the top end is still off. Evidently when I spun the crank some to oil the bearings, I had to go through the gears to get to neutral do I could spin the crank by hand. With the clutch cover off it allowed the gear shifter to slide over toward the cover. So the point on the gear shifter was pushing out and when I pushed it back in, it was spring loaded some and would Spring back out and be in the way of the cover. I went to the left side and took the case protector off and pulled out on the shifter and it seemed to lick back in place and stopped pushing out against the cover on the other side.
Seems it fid that once before and I could not remember what I did yo reset it.
I had the axle on stands and when I turned the tires to get the gears back to neutral, it evidently cause the shifter gear to slide out some on the cover side. I think it's ok now.

[El Camexican]

Sounds like you’re good. The shift return spring ends just need to be pinching the stationary pin if memory serves me.

[Just-Tri-It]

One more question.
On the timing marks on the stator and the casing. Should they line up or should the stator mark be to the right of the case mark.? If it is to the right, isn't that advancing the timing. Been so long since I installed one. Book says line them up, but it was a little to the right when I removed it.

[El Camexican]

Lined up is stock, clockwise (right) is advanced and counter clockwise (left) is retarded. The consensus seems to be that a couple degrees retarded is the way to go. About 2mm left of center.