Think I might have clutch issues...YTM225DR

[patblkwell]

Hey guys, not sure what exactly is wrong with my bike but here are the symptoms:

I've noticed that when I'm riding and downshift to lower gears it seems to not have hardly any engine braking or slow down much which I think is not normal compared to all previous bikes I've ridden. Also, sometimes it is hard to shift from first to second gear for some reason. I have adjusted the clutch per the manual but doesn't seem to help much. I've also notice it doesn't pull the front wheel off the ground as easy in first gear as it used to. One last thing, after I turn the bike off I hear something faintly spinning for a few seconds inside the crankcase. Any thoughts or ideas would be welcomed. Thanks

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk

[El Camexican]

I wouldn’t spend too much time speculating on the cause.

Remove the covers from the righthand side of the engine and see what you have going on in there.

If there is something still moving around in internally after the engine is shut off it is probably related to the centrifugal clutch which is the one nearest to the front of the engin Give it a good look and post up some pictures.

As far as shifting from 1st to 2nd being difficult, or awkward I know my 200, which is essentially the same configuration is probably the worst shifting vehicle I have ever owned, so don’t read too much into that at this point.

When everything is working properly and you downshift that trike from 2nd to 1st at speed it should try and throw you over the handlebars, so something definitely isn’t working properly in your clutching system.

[patblkwell]

I wouldn’t spend too much time speculating on the cause.

Remove the covers from the righthand side of the engine and see what you have going on in there.

If there is something still moving around in internally after the engine is shut off it is probably related to the centrifugal clutch which is the one nearest to the front of the engin Give it a good look and post up some pictures.

As far as shifting from 1st to 2nd being difficult, or awkward I know my 200, which is essentially the same configuration is probably the worst shifting vehicle I have ever owned, so don’t read too much into that at this point.

When everything is working properly and you downshift that trike from 2nd to 1st at speed it should try and throw you over the handlebars, so something definitely isn’t working properly in your clutching system.Yeah I'm going to remove the right side cover soon and check everything out, was just trying to brainstorm beforehand. Will post some pics and all once I get into it. I agree about downshifting, the bike should want to throw you forward once it gets in the first gear from my past experiences. Thanks El.

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk

[El Camexican]

Brainstorming is all good, but your symptoms indicate that something metallic is starting to let go and therefore I would advise you not to run that thing again until you find out what it is.

When you mention that something is making noise inside after you shut it off I’m curious to know if that is happening after you think the crankshaft has stopped turning or as part of the slowing down of all the internal parts. I ask because if the crankshaft has stopped moving and something is still rattling around in there I’m having a hard time understanding what it might be as everything is on splined shafts.

[Shep1970]

Goto the end of this video (last 10 seconds) I ended up replacing the oneway bearing and centrifugal clutch- had the same symtoms you are having. Not the same machine but.... it would spin after being shut off and was slowly getting worse (all set now. Just the bearing was bad but did clutch also while apart.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MYVUyBpqSwQ
In the vid you can hear it spin until it finally catches

Shep

[patblkwell]

The noise is happening after the crankshaft stops moving. It sound as if something is spinning freely for four to five seconds or so until it stops. It's a very quiet sound. Definitely not going to ride it again until I find out what the problem is and fix it.
Brainstorming is all good, but your symptoms indicate that something metallic is starting to let go and therefore I would advise you not to run that thing again until you find out what it is.

When you mention that something is making noise inside after you shut it off I’m curious to know if that is happening after you think the crankshaft has stopped turning or as part of the slowing down of all the internal parts. I ask because if the crankshaft has stopped moving and something is still rattling around in there I’m having a hard time understanding what it might be as everything is on splined shafts.

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk

[patblkwell]

Goto the end of this video (last 10 seconds) I ended up replacing the oneway bearing and centrifugal clutch- had the same symtoms you are having. Not the same machine but.... it would spin after being shut off and was slowly getting worse (all set now. Just the bearing was bad but did clutch also while apart.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MYVUyBpqSwQ
In the vid you can hear it spin until it finally catches

ShepThanks Shep, yeah it could very well be the one way bearing going out.... I'm going to check everything out once I open it up.

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk

[patblkwell]

OK...I removed the right side cover and snapped a pic of the clutches. The nut on the secondary clutch (see pic) was LOOSE....like I could wiggle it with my fingers until it hit the locking plate. According to the manual it should be tightened to 56 ft lbs. I haven't removed the primary clutch yet to inspect the disks and all as it takes a 24 or 25mm? socket which apparently I don't have so I will have to get one in order to remove it.252736 This is my first time messing with a clutch assembly on a bike so not sure of "everything" I need to check so any input would be appreciated, thanks

[wonderboy]

Somewhere in there should also be a one-way bearing. I don't know if the loose nut would cause it, but a bad one-way bearing will ABSOLUTELY cause the symptom of not having engine braking when decelerating. When the engine RPM slows, the centrifugal shoes normally disengage. The one-way bearing allows the wheel torque to back feed through the system and drive the engine (giving you braking). So, in addition to inspecting everything, be sure to give the one-way bearing a good checkout.

[patblkwell]

Somewhere in there should also be a one-way bearing. I don't know if the loose nut would cause it, but a bad one-way bearing will ABSOLUTELY cause the symptom of not having engine braking when decelerating. When the engine RPM slows, the centrifugal shoes normally disengage. The one-way bearing allows the wheel torque to back feed through the system and drive the engine (giving you braking). So, in addition to inspecting everything, be sure to give the one-way bearing a good checkout.

Gotcha...this may be a dumb question but what is the easiest way to tell if the one-way bearing is no good? Do you have to check it with the clutch on the engine or ? Thanks

[wonderboy]

I've never done the job on the YTM, but on the Honda if I'm remembering correctly, you should be able to manually try to spin the centrifugal clutch bell while everything is assembled. I'm trying to remember if things are free enough to check this, but basically, you should be able to rotate the outer part (the clutch bell) one way freely, and the other direction it should grab the center hub (with the clutch shoes). It will be tough to evaluate without it being actually installed on the proper shaft since even the surface finish of the two sides can affect how the one-way will grab.

Once you start tearing into it and studying the parts, you should be able to find a way to check it on the shaft.

[patblkwell]

I've never done the job on the YTM, but on the Honda if I'm remembering correctly, you should be able to manually try to spin the centrifugal clutch bell while everything is assembled. I'm trying to remember if things are free enough to check this, but basically, you should be able to rotate the outer part (the clutch bell) one way freely, and the other direction it should grab the center hub (with the clutch shoes). It will be tough to evaluate without it being actually installed on the proper shaft since even the surface finish of the two sides can affect how the one-way will grab.

Once you start tearing into it and studying the parts, you should be able to find a way to check it on the shaft.

Thanks, will give it a try and see what it's looking like.

[patblkwell]

I did do a hand test on the one way bearing and I can only get it to spin one way by hand, there's definitely resistance when trying to spend it the other way. I heard to check the grooves inside the clutch bell, let me know what you think...see pics.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180605/27876bcec81f70c0bb1f1ec01cf743d8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180605/b66779f707618147a691cd2166e3231e.jpg

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk

[leevarnado]

Easiest way to see if clutch oneway bearing is bad is get someone to pull you off.if the motor doesnt spin over while in gear then you have a bad bearing

[patblkwell]

Easiest way to see if clutch oneway bearing is bad is get someone to pull you off.if the motor doesnt spin over while in gear then you have a bad bearingThanks I assume you meant have someone try pull starting it while I'm watching it? ha

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk

[El Camexican]

Thanks I assume you meant have someone try pull starting it while I'm watching it?

Got me thinking. Sure would be nice to get a tug job while caring for the toys. :naughty:

Looks like there are some used ones on ebay for under $100 that might be in better shape than yours.

A few years back I picked up an entire assembly that was listed as being for a YTM, but is wasn't the same as my origin. However with a little mixing and matching of the new and old parts it worked great.

Yamaha P/N 3GC-16611-00-00 The thing is I think this part number is only for the housing, but mine arrived in a Yamaha box with everything including the assembled hub with bearing and the complete inner clutch. I figured for $120 bucks I couldn't go wrong.

So regardless of your bearing's condition that unit looks to be fried, so best start looking for a complete replacement either new or used if you like doing wheelies.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3GC-16611-00-00-HOUSING-CLUTCH/252871589239?hash=item3ae0523d77:g:mZIAAOSwN6JY85n h:sc:USPSPriority!78043!US!-1

[patblkwell]

Got me thinking. Sure would be nice to get a tug job while caring for the toys. :naughty:

Looks like there are some used ones on ebay for under $100 that might be in better shape than yours.

A few years back I picked up an entire assembly that was listed as being for a YTM, but is wasn't the same as my origin. However with a little mixing and matching of the new and old parts it worked great.

Yamaha P/N 3GC-16611-00-00 The thing is I think this part number is only for the housing, but mine arrived in a Yamaha box with everything including the assembled hub with bearing and the complete inner clutch. I figured for $120 bucks I couldn't go wrong.

So regardless of your bearing's condition that unit looks to be fried, so best start looking for a complete replacement either new or used if you like doing wheelies.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3GC-16611-00-00-HOUSING-CLUTCH/252871589239?hash=item3ae0523d77:g:mZIAAOSwN6JY85n h:sc:USPSPriority!78043!US!-1

Haha I know what you mean El.

I actually just scored a complete primary/secondary clutch setup from a Bear Tracker 250 that is in EXC condition and for only $50! I figured I should replace it all as it is probably worn out from 33 years of use....can't wait to have wheelie popping power and engine breaking again :cool:

[patblkwell]

Okay I installed the primary and secondary clutch from a 2003 Bear Tracker today and wow what a difference! I can pop wheelies in 1st 2nd 3rd gear and have engine braking now finally haha.

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk