Rear chain help? Maybe

[Shep1970]

My heads hit a brick wall, must be an age thing. Can someone that’d know take a quick look and tell me?
I’m thinking three links shorter or maybe 4?
The axle carrier is loose on chain tension so can be tightened-
Yes this chain is getting replaced(junk)
Auto 200x- going from 42tooth to a 36
The chain in the pics is 88 links
Thanks for any help I figure someone will look and say “oh that’s an easy one”
252080 252081
The master link is the top real rusty one
Or maybe I’ll just get a longer chain and invest in a chain breaker tool:rolleyes:
Shep

[fabiodriven]

Depending on your setup and gearing, sometimes you end up at a point where the chain is going to be either too short or too long. If you have the carrier all the way slacked, then you're obviously going to have to go to the next link. Hopefully there will be enough travel in the carrier to take up the slack. The new chain is going to stretch so you may get to a point where you have to remove a link after it stretches.

[DAM shop]

I've had to cut them on the short side and use a half link..

[fabiodriven]

I've had to cut them on the short side and use a half link..

I've used half links in certain situations but I didn't even bring them up here because they can be somewhat unreliable.

[Shep1970]

That’s the thing I’d like to stay away from the half links. I might be able to get a touch more slack out of the carrier adjustment. I will mess with the carrier to see, i’ll See what the carrier movement allows for adjustment. Have to make dinner for fam be back soon.

Damn may flies suk/
Just need a couple hours more of daylight!!
Shep

[fabiodriven]

The flies are terrible yes. I have bug nets I put over my squash. It might look funny but it works.

[El Camexican]

I don’t have much to say other than f@@k I hate when that happens.

I’d go up or down on the rear sprocket 1 tooth before I debated a half link.

Remember that it’s better to be a little loose than a little time on a suspended axle.

[Shep1970]

This steel 36t sprocket was like $25 bucks, they had a 37tooth at the same price.
Sprocket specialties was like $80 for a 38tooth. I do have a one tooth smaller for the front but I’ll probably have to run next to it then jump on, ha
Wife took us to Walmart, been here for 1-1/2 hours and daylights gone! I’ll take another look at this tomorrow.
(Ok back to lurking)


Shep

[Shep1970]

Ok, I think I found the solution. I put a larger 13tooth on the front. But still had the same half link look in the rear:(
So now I will leave the 13 on the front and put the 42t back on the rear that will give me what’s equal to a 38/39 in the rear because stock is 12t. It should be better than the 12/42 ratio? (Need a touch more speed)
Doing this because the trx200sx engine 1st gear seems to be a granny gear and only a five speed, found myself over and over looking for 6th gear but not there! 252089 252090

Or maybe just go buy that 37tooth and leave the stock 12t up front
Ok, well thanks for listening to me ramble on- “happy Sunday”!!!!

Shep

[El Camexican]

General rules of sprockets....

The smaller the front sprocket the faster the chain wears out. Too small and you’ll have accselarated wear on the upper swingarm pivot area. Too big and the chain can start wearing into your cases and whatever else is around that area, especially after it starts to get worn and loose.

1 tooth on the front is equal to about 3 on the rear.

Even though the ratios may be almost identical like a 12/42 vs a 13/45 the smaller front sprocket will give you a better 60’ time at the drag strip, not sure why that is.

JT sprockets are cheap and from what I have experienced they don’t wear any faster than the high dollar stuff, they just don’t look as pretty.

[Shep1970]

My final decision-ha- yes the 13 would probably have been fine up front but a little snug near the case saver for my liking.
Back to the stock 12t, left the 36t on rear. Just ordered a cheaper 84link chain “hoping it’ll stretch sooner. I pulled the chain slack out to where a new chain would go, the chain did have a little up/down movement but not as much as I would like, I’m hoping for the best.....if not i’ll Start over again:Bounce.
I just “don’t” want to split these cases to replace output shaft bearing because “I” left the chain too tight
Just have to wait for the mailman....
Shep

The 36t looks tiny compared to the 42t / 252092

[El Camexican]

If you want to be absolutely certain that you have not over tightened your chain, remove your rear shock and pivot your swing arm out until the axel is a far away from the countershaft as it can be. You can have the chain as tight as a fiddle string at that point and nothing bad will come of it.

If you don’t want to remove the shock, just get a few portly friends to climb onto the trike at the same time and set it taunt when the suspension is half compressed. A ratchet tie down might work as well and they don’t ask for beers when you put them to work.

PS. There’s no such thing as a good cheap chain.

[Shep1970]

I bought an “RK” non-oring chain, the company sounded familiar and supposedly made in Japan. Im thinking it’s atleast a step above those colored china $15-18 chains found on eBay. Good idea on removing the shock, I have to grease the bushing anyhow.
Im “still” finding trikefest mud/clay in places on this bike.....jeez
Shep

[El Camexican]

I bought an “RK” non-oring chain, the company sounded familiar and supposedly made in Japan. Im thinking it’s atleast a step above those colored china $15-18 chains found on eBay. Good idea on removing the shock, I have to grease the bushing anyhow.
Im “still” finding trikefest mud/clay in places on this bike.....jeez
Shep

RK makes a great product as does D.I.D.

[Red Rider]

As El said, RK is a quality brand, but personally, I wouldn't use a non o-ring, as they're too noisy for my liking. Supposedly, the extra drag of a traditional o-ring chain robs hp, as they are fairly stiff, but much of that is negated by the newer x-ring chains, which move much more freely.


Wife took us to Walmart, been here for 1-1/2 hours...That is a recipe for fun! :w00t:

[Shep1970]

As El said, RK is a quality brand, but personally, I wouldn't use a non o-ring, as they're too noisy for my liking. Supposedly, the extra drag of a traditional o-ring chain robs hp, as they are fairly stiff, but much of that is negated by the newer x-ring chains, which move much more freely.

That is a recipe for fun! :w00t:

Chain noise/ with the supertrapp exhaust on this bike I don’t hear too much else, not too overly loud but still. The SuperWalmart here I get so pissed off when going there it’s “full” of Indians (dot not feather) there kids run amuck, take up the whole isle, they think they own the place. I could go on and on.... but u get the idea

Shep

[ironchop]

Yeah I've had a couple oring RK chains with good longevity

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[Shep1970]

Ok- just keep in mind that I stole a link from a yr old chain probably less than 50miles on it. I added it to my new RK chain, both non-oring, the rollers/ everything is the same. This is so i don’t need to run a half link/ “but” as soon as I get a very little chain stretch/wear I can remove the link and one master to be “normal” again.

I’ve read into having two masters and had found only a couple people said “not” to do it.
So I guess my question is “would you run it this way”???
I am replacing the old clip with a new one, its here somewhere.
252203 252204

The used link is like new, its mostly Indiana mud/clay residue from last yr.

Thanks,
Shep

[atc300r]

Ok- just keep in mind that I stole a link from a yr old chain probably less than 50miles on it. I added it to my new RK chain, both non-oring, the rollers/ everything is the same. This is so i don’t need to run a half link/ “but” as soon as I get a very little chain stretch/wear I can remove the link and one master to be “normal” again.

I’ve read into having two masters and had found only a couple people said “not” to do it.
So I guess my question is “would you run it this way”???
I am replacing the old clip with a new one, its here somewhere.
252203 252204

The used link is like new, its mostly Indiana mud/clay residue from last yr.

Thanks,
ShepYou should be good.I have ran 3 master links before even racing held up fine.I run non-oring chains.

[fabiodriven]

I've run multiple master links. I've never seen a master link fail.

[fabiodriven]

I'm in the same boat with the 480R right now, what a pain. I'm just going to have to change sprocket sizes I guess, I don't know what else to do.

[Shep1970]

Yup if I just ordered the 37t for the rear instead of the 36t I wouldn’t have had any problems. Wife got me a dirtwheels subscription- came with a Rocky Mountain atv gift card for $25 dollars so a new chain breaker and link pliers are in my toolbox:Bounce just wish I had the chain breaker last wk when I needed it....252474

Still need to go through two more bikes- “hopefully” just oil and brake pads though

Shep

[fabiodriven]

I ordered a chain breaker when you started this thread so I'll get to try that out. My problem is changing sprocket sizes is going to put my chain closer to the frame where it's already too close. Hmm...

[Shep1970]

Well here we go onto #2 I started inspecting my son’s bike the first thing I notice is “fork oil” where it shouldn’t be...crap I really did not want to get into this especially before t-fest (This is the only pair that hasn’t been overhauled) crap— there goes my Saturday morning!! Maybe pretend I didn’t see it..hmmm. I’m sure there full of 30yr old sludge too:cry:
No pics I’m sure you’ve all seen the mess before-

I know not chain related but this isn’t fun either...

Shep

[fabiodriven]

Well here we go onto #2 I started inspecting my son’s bike the first thing I notice is “fork oil” where it shouldn’t be...crap I really did not want to get into this especially before t-fest

Just did the set on the 480R myself. Do yourself a favor Shep; rebuild a shock, then fork seals seem like chicken, lol! Seriously though, the Trikefest crunch is getting to me. I have a lot to do before I leave here and honestly I'm not even 100% certain it's all feasible. Honestly if I didn't make it, frig it.


I've used half links in certain situations but I didn't even bring them up here because they can be somewhat unreliable.

And to completely go against what I posted here, I must now use a half link on the 480. I have no choice!

[fabiodriven]

I bought this a couple weeks ago and was looking forward to using it today. I've always broken chains with a grinder, a punch, a hammer, and a lot of swears. I open this kit up today and there are no instructions and I have no idea how it's supposed to work. Very frustrating.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/93c6057985222cbeefc958929fffaf91.jpg

[jb2wheels]

I have the same tool. I still grind the rivets but not sure it's necessary. Makes me feel good.

This should help:
https://www.motionpro.com/a/chain-breaker-and-riveting-tool-08-0058/

[fabiodriven]

I figured it out. Extended swing arm is off and might be for sale. Next obstacle, my farking half link doesn't fit. I'm about to throw up my middle finger to Trikefest, not a good day over here.

[fabiodriven]

Breaking shite.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/23e609565a0c33092ff34f8403919e91.jpg

[El Camexican]

Where did you find a half link? I can’t even find link clips for individual sale.

[fabiodriven]

They're on eBay of course, but after spending a lot of time massaging one to make it fit my 520 chain, it ended up not working. They sell them as a "520 half link" on eBay, but they're labeled as being for #50 chain on their packaging. After spending way too much time on one the other day trying to make it fit, I went to the hardware store looking for something else and I happened to see that they sold the very same links at the hardware store that I had gotten from eBay. The hardware store sells them as #50, not 520, which are two different chain sizes. The eBay sellers selling these links as 520 are WRONG because the #50 links WILL NOT WORK on a 520 chain.

I ended up having to buy a true 520 half link from Europe, and it's the only true 520 half link I've ever seen, assuming it is correct once it arrives. It looks good in the listing though.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180524/7f6eb337f749a4dd510872f8ec018fb4.jpg

[El Camexican]

It does look good!

I wonder if there is an industry standard for the diameter of the inner pins? I think Regina and D.I.D. Are the same, but I haven’t mixed any others.

Good luck and let us know how it works, I might pick one up if you’re happy with it.

[ironchop]

Breaking shite.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/23e609565a0c33092ff34f8403919e91.jpgThat's what my chain breaker kit looked like the very first time I used it too. No instructions to say that you can't press 520 riveted pins out without breaking the breaker's accessories. Have to grind the heads down on bigger chains.

Not sure what happened in your pic

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[DAM shop]

252542

Thats messed up, you need one like this.

[ironchop]

252542

Thats messed up, you need one like this.That's the same one I broke. That thin long pin there was hardened a little too much and I snapped that part

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[DAM shop]

That's the same one I broke. That thin long pin there was hardened a little too much and I snapped that part

Sent from my Z958 using TapatalkNow I see, I know they make different sizes and grades. Crazy, I have broke a lot of chain with mine.

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[ironchop]

Now I see, I know they make different sizes and grades. Crazy, I have broke a lot of chain with mine.

Sent from my XT1650 using TapatalkIts probable you have a better quality unit than I had. There's so many cheap knockoffs out there these days and I recall paying about $25 for it so it may be a knockoff of the better brand tool

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