Please Help...can't get trike to start after installing new top end

[patblkwell]

Hey guys, I picked up a 1985 Yamaha 225dr that would start via the pull-starter (electric start wasn't working) but had low compression and would smoke some. I just recently installed a new top end kit with (stock size not bored over) and cannot get it to start now. The motor is getting spark, gas and air so I am not sure what the problem is. It's like it's not even wanting to try and start for some reason. I did set the cam chain and guide to how it's supposed to be per the manual fyi. I'm sure it would be easier to diagnose if the electric start was working vs. pull starting it, but any other ideas on what it could be? thanks

[patblkwell]

Compression is good. Cleaned and re-lapped the valves. The cam timing was set as shown here before replacing the top end which is off 180° according to the manual. Second pic is from the manual.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170926/56c402556842e6c58bb6434f28821843.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170926/57f5ed72f0c46ed45d92e573b20aa590.jpg

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[atc007]

Did you check the valves for seating before assembly? Fill the ports full of ether and see if any seeps through? You may have a slightly bent valve. However, you say compression is good. The pull starter should try and tear out of your hand on a healthy fresh engine.

[fabiodriven]

That engine will pull the pull cord right out of your hand. My buddy broke his finger pulling my DR over. Always use the compression release! I wouldn't worry too much about the electric start. Mine started first pull every time, warm or cold, but for whatever reason it wouldn't always start with the electric start.

[patblkwell]

Whats odd is that it isn't super hard to pull start like you all are saying. It doesn't seem to matter if I flip the compression release or not and sometimes when I try to flip the compression release it won't stay in place?

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[patblkwell]

It's not easy but definitely not trying to rip my arm off...

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[patblkwell]

Yes I am aware that the cam cannot be 180º out...when I was removing the old top end that's how it was set when the T mark was viewable through the eye hole in the crankcase. I put it back to how it should be according to the manual. I am definitely a novice when it comes to working on these which is why I am on here for assistance from some of you engine gurus :cool:

As far as the compression release switch, what I mean is sometimes when you go to flip it on, it will not stay engaged. I know that once you pull start the trike it releases on its own. I was referring to prior to pull starting.

[fabiodriven]

Yeah as Damon said, the compression release will not always stay popped if the engine isn't in the right position so no worries there. If it's not trying to yank the pull handle out of your hand then something is wrong. I tend to agree with what Damon is saying about some of the possible issues you might have on a mechanical level. Please take Damon's stern tone with a grain of salt, he's here to help. Lol!

[atc007]

At this point, if you don't have a good compression tester. If you have another person. Plug the plug hole with your finger. It should burn it real good if there is enough compression. You can also try pull starting it behind a truck or another vehicle. If she don't start then. You are going back in for sure. Have you shot ether in the plug hole/back of carb and it does not sputter?

[patblkwell]

I haven't tried starting fluid yet, but will. 10-4 about the cam.

[fabiodriven]

He was suggesting ether to see if the valves were seated, not for starting. (Never mind. It was suggested for starting as well. I'd steer clear. You said it's getting fuel.)

I respectfully would disagree with Bill about pop starting it or towing it behind a vehicle. In my opinion, if you have to pop start it there is definitely something wrong. Not only that, but if something is out of place in there and decides to come loose while you're dragging it behind a vehicle, there is going to be very little forgiveness. You could easily put a valve right through the piston.

Forget about trying to fire with starting fluid and pop starts, you're way past that stuff. It sounds to me like your next step should be a compression test.

[El Camexican]

If I can expand on Dude's comments, you need to remove your sparkplug and rotate the engine forward (counter clockwise when facing the left side) until you get your fly wheel "T" mark lined up with the marker on the case cover and then look at where the mark on the cam sprocket is in relation to the mark on the cylinder head. It should point up, a 180 degrees to what your photo shows.

I hope the marks line up, because if you are off by just one tooth there's a good chance you've bent a valve. If the marks do line up start looking at valve adjustments and take a compression test.

A few words of caution for future endeavors; Always rotate a 4 stroke in the same direction as it runs, use EXTREME caution rotating an engine until you're certain your timing marks are correct, never over tighten a cam chain and when in doubt back your valve lash off when checking timing. Great way to avoid bending them if you do end up a tooth off.

Oh, and always make sure you have gas in the carb before tearing a perfectly good motor apart :D

[patblkwell]

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions guys....I will definitely keep you all updated on this. I knew it was a project when I got it haha.

[patblkwell]

I will get a pic of the cam, T mark on flywheel, etc. tonight to show you.

[patblkwell]

This is how I set the cam timinghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170927/249214591d115cdac8ef7d9209318ff6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170927/d1cba9ff09d4c18346c43edf9518f622.jpg

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[patblkwell]

I'll have to get a compression reader to test it...

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[patblkwell]

UPDATE: okay so today I was trying to get the bike started for and not sure why I didn't try this before but I held down the throttle a little while pulling it over and the compression increased by tenfold. I put a piece of duct tape on the throttle to keep it open a little bit pulled started and it fired right up. I'm guessing there wasn't enough air coming through the carb with the throttle all the way closed which I thought was set properly. I'm wondering if I need to increase the amount of throttle at idle or adjust the air screw now on the carb?

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[patblkwell]

Awesome. Will it idle at the correct rpm? If so, yes set the idle screw on the side of the carb and you're done. If it has to idle high to stay running, you need to adjust the idle mix screw or clean the pilot jet.It will idle at the right RPM, but for some reason it seems there is a little too much slack in the throttle cable and I have to press the thumb throttle a little keep it going. In other words if the throttle slider piece in the carb is all the way down it won't start or run...

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[patblkwell]

Yep there's a screw on the side of the carb that controls the resting slide height via a slotted ramp in the slide. It's a good idea to tap the throttle as you adjust it, otherwise the special screw can gouge the ramp over time.

Once the idle is set you can take up SOME of the slack in the throttle cable but do not adjust it to have zero slack.10-4 appreciate the info... will definitely fine tune it now that I finally have it running!

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[El Camexican]

Yep there's a screw on the side of the carb that controls the resting slide height via a slotted ramp in the slide. It's a good idea to tap the throttle as you adjust it, otherwise the special screw can gouge the ramp over time.

You can also pull the slide up a tick with the throttle, but I think most of the damage is caused by the slide closing against the screw. Crazy how damaged they can get. I prefer the plastic screws.

[patblkwell]

Hey guys, ok so I can get it to start with no problem now. What I am having trouble with is getting it to run smoothly. It seems the throttle response is a little inconsistent and changes when steering from left to right. I know the throttle cable can be adjusted which I've done somewhat but it still seems a little too finicky to me? Also, I did set the air/fuel screw to 2 turns out per the manual and have closed and opened it 1/2 turn for variance but it is smoking (white) a little out of the exhaust after it's running for a few minutes. One more thing, the manual really doesn't get into too much detail as to what height the throttle needle needs to be at (4 settings with c-clip) so not sure if there is a perfect combination with that and the air/fuel screw that must be achieved and all. Thanks guys.

[fabiodriven]

The reason for the surging while steering is either the cable is routed incorrectly or improperly adjusted. First ensure that that the cable is in fact routed properly. Once you're sure the cable is routed right, if the machine still surges while turning, then you need more slack in the throttle cable. You can adjust the cable sheath to shorten thereby giving the cable more slack.

The white smoke is more than likely condensation burning off in the muffler. If that's the case, that's normal.

[patblkwell]

The reason for the surging while steering is either the cable is routed incorrectly or improperly adjusted. First ensure that that the cable is in fact routed properly. Once you're sure the cable is routed right, if the machine still surges while turning, then you need more slack in the throttle cable. You can adjust the cable sheath to shorten thereby giving the cable more slack.

The white smoke is more than likely condensation burning off in the muffler. If that's the case, that's normal.

I will double check but I believe that I have the cable routed correctly per the manual...will definitely try shortening it to give it more slack. I was thinking residue at first but the smoke does have a smell to it like oil a little. Keep in mind I just put in a brand new top end...now I am thinking new valves and seals may be needed as well. thanks

[fabiodriven]

It's also possible that your exhaust is full of oil residue from the previous top end letting go.

[patblkwell]

OK I tinkered a little bit more with it today...Idles perfect does not smoke anymore… Think it was running too rich. It is still cutting out and wanting to die when I turn the handlebars to the left. I have the throttle cable routed exactly like the manual, I even made it free to where there is no pressure on it or anything and still it wants to cut out when I turn to the left. Any other ideas? I'm pulling my hair out over this ha ha


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[fabiodriven]

Post pictures of the cable adjusters please. There could be one at the throttle itself, one in the middle of the cable somewhere, and one on the top of the carburetor. I don't recall which your machine has but it could have any or all three of those.

[patblkwell]

Post pictures of the cable adjusters please. There could be one at the throttle itself, one in the middle of the cable somewhere, and one on the top of the carburetor. I don't recall which your machine has but it could have any or all three of those.

Not at home now to post pics, but mine has one adjuster at the carb and one near the handlebars. I put them both all the way in so there is no tension on the throttle cable.

[fabiodriven]

Very good. You don't need to post pictures then. It's difficult to diagnose over the internet, but if the problem is because of the cable being too taught, you're running out of reasons why. I'd be curious if there is a way it's getting hung up inside the throttle itself, assuming that the problem is still a taught cable. Perhaps the thumb mechanism is in the wrong spline inside the assembly or something like that? It would be easier to tell in person.

[patblkwell]

It could be the kill switch grounding too I've had that happen. Does it bog and die or just cut instantly

It starts to bog and slowly die the more I turn it to the left, if I turn it back to the right it does back to normal idle and all. It doesn't just die instantly. I also freed the kill switch wiring and all from the frame to make sure they weren't being pinched, etc.

[patblkwell]

Very good. You don't need to post pictures then. It's difficult to diagnose over the internet, but if the problem is because of the cable being too taught, you're running out of reasons why. I'd be curious if there is a way it's getting hung up inside the throttle itself, assuming that the problem is still a taught cable. Perhaps the thumb mechanism is in the wrong spline inside the assembly or something like that? It would be easier to tell in person.

I did remove the throttle lever housing cover to check the cable end free play and it is not taught...when I move the handlebars to the left, the cable end barely moves which is why I don't understand why the bike is dying when I do so. If I move the handlebars to the left and increase the throttle with my thumb, it won't die just fyi.

[fabiodriven]

Choke cable adjustment perhaps?

[Tri-Z 250]

Are you sure you don't have a blaster cable?...they are the shortest of that style cable. I only know this because I run them on my Zingers.

[patblkwell]

Choke cable adjustment perhaps?

I did check the choke as well and it functions as it should and is not hung up. I will double check again though to be sure.

[patblkwell]

Are you sure you don't have a blaster cable?...they are the shortest of that style cable. I only know this because I run them on my Zingers.

I'm 99.9% sure its the stock cable for the YTM 225...the bike was pretty much all original when I got it.

[atc007]

A misrouted cable would be revving,not dying,assuming your idle is set right. I think you have a bare wire. Wait till it is completely dark at night ,and watch for a spark while turning your bars. Or just get in there and carefully look for a bare/kinked wire.

[patblkwell]

A misrouted cable would be revving,not dying,assuming your idle is set right. I think you have a bare wire. Wait till it is completely dark at night ,and watch for a spark while turning your bars. Or just get in there and carefully look for a bare/kinked wire.

I was thinking that as well, but if I increase the throttle when I turn it to the left it will stay running...

[patblkwell]

Well I got the throttle to remain fairly consistent now when turning the handlebars...I basically just played around with all the wiring and cables close to the frame until I found the sweet spot. I took it for a spin for the first time and it has good throttle response in low range but not at mid range (was bogging some if I tried to hit the throttle). Any ideas on what could be causing that?

[atc007]

Verify the main and pilot are correct size and needle in the middle. Clean the carb with very high compressed air. Make sure Carb cleaner/whatever you have will spray through each and every hole front and back. Make sure your air filter is cleaned/oiled/and unobstructed. She should rip after that.

[patblkwell]

I cleaned the carb very thoroughly, even took a small metal wire for the tiny holes, Etc. The carb is spotless inside. I'm pretty sure the stock jetting is in the carb, but how do I check to be sure? The C clip on the needle is set in the middle per the manual.

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[yaegerb]

I cleaned the carb very thoroughly, even took a small metal wire for the tiny holes, Etc. The carb is spotless inside. I'm pretty sure the stock jetting is in the carb, but how do I check to be sure? The C clip on the needle is set in the middle per the manual.

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A quick test to see if your are lean or rich on needle/main is to warm it up, and take it for a rip. As you are going down the road flip the choke on and see if the mid-bog get worse or better.

If it bogs worse then you are too rich and I would recommend going up 1 clip on the needle.
If the bogging clears up then you are too lean and I would go down 1 clip on the needle.

Then repeat the process. if you find that no needle adjustment will work then its time to go to the main. But all things being equal (non performance parts on this machine) you shouldn't need to touch the main.

[patblkwell]

A quick test to see if your are lean or rich on needle/main is to warm it up, and take it for a rip. As you are going down the road flip the choke on and see if the mid-bog get worse or better.

If it bogs worse then you are too rich and I would recommend going up 1 clip on the needle.
If the bogging clears up then you are too lean and I would go down 1 clip on the needle.

Then repeat the process. if you find that no needle adjustment will work then its time to go to the main. But all things being equal (non performance parts on this machine) you shouldn't need to touch the main.

10-4 will definitely try that and report back after doing so. Thanks

[patblkwell]

Ok I got a chance to test out the bike again today and here's the deal...it will start up on the first pull, idle perfectly and you can rev the throttle repeatedly with no bogging whatsoever.... Has great throttle response. When I take it for a ride, the throttle is normal from 1st to 2nd gear in low range, then once you try to accelerate past second gear to shift to third it bogs and loses power… I have tried adjusting the needle up-and-down and even adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw and it runs the same. I also tried as one poster suggested to flip the choke on while riding down the road, but it seems to not make much difference as well. It still won't let me open up the throttle once you get past second gear without bogging. Could it possibly be the main jet or the float level of my carburetor is off? Prior to all this I did clean the carb very thoroughly and it was clean as a whistle just FYI.


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[El Camexican]

Don't laugh at this, but before you touch anything else make sure your rear brake isn't dragging.

If that checks out pull the hose off of your petcock and make sure that it is flowing decently and that your gas cap vent isn't plugged.

[patblkwell]

Don't laugh at this, but before you touch anything else make sure your rear brake isn't dragging.

If that checks out pull the hose off of your petcock and make sure that it is flowing decently and that your gas cap vent isn't plugged.

Haha yeah my brakes are free for sure on my bike… Probably need to be tightened somewhat as the bike rolls very easily and freely.I did check the fuel flow from the petcock and it is flowing to the carb just fine.


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[El Camexican]

In theory your motor doesn't care what gear it's in. If it can rev in first and second gear it should be able to rev in third, fourth & fifth unless something in your drivetrain is causing a restriction.

Can you get it up on blocks and safely run it through the gears to see if anything weird is happening?

[yaegerb]

It could also be electrical.

[patblkwell]

I actually thought about doing this to see if it makes a difference....will try it and let ya'll know.


Can you get it up on blocks and safely run it through the gears to see if anything weird is happening?

[patblkwell]

CDI or something else?


It could also be electrical.

[yaegerb]

Could be CDI, bad advancer or something else. Ground your sparkplug to your cylinder and turn the lights off. If the spark is blue you are good, if its yellow, its weak. Also, I'll admit, I haven't gone back through and read the entire thread....try checking your valve lash again.

[Mach-10]

Why do you need to make sure you have gas in the carberator prior to taking a motor apart ? Sorry for the late question. This was posted on the front page of the thread.

[El Camexican]

Why do you need to make sure you have gas in the carberator prior to taking a motor apart ? Sorry for the late question. This was posted on the front page of the thread.

Because I have seen guys take perfectly good motorcycles to the dealer for service because they couldn't start them when the only problem was they hadn't turned the petcock on.

[83ATC185]

Because I have seen guys take perfectly good motorcycles to the dealer for service because they couldn't start them when the only problem was they hadn't turned the petcock on.

And i once wore myself out as a kid trying to start my xr100 for an hour with the killswitch off. :lol:

Just saturday i pulled out my "frankenbike" after 2 years of sitting and couldn't make it run...carb off, checked and adjusted 5 or 6 times, checked spark, looked good. Put it back in, would run for a minute and die. Pull plug out, no spark. So I'm thinking CDI or the stator is bad...nope. The practically brand new, factory correct, properly gapped spark plug with less than 5 hours of ride time was the culprit. Swapped it out with the old plug i had from the rebuild and it has ran flawless since...

[El Camexican]

And i once wore myself out as a kid trying to start my xr100 for an hour with the killswitch off. :lol:

Just saturday i pulled out my "frankenbike" after 2 years of sitting and couldn't make it run...carb off, checked and adjusted 5 or 6 times, checked spark, looked good. Put it back in, would run for a minute and die. Pull plug out, no spark. So I'm thinking CDI or the stator is bad...nope. The practically brand new, factory correct, properly gapped spark plug with less than 5 hours of ride time was the culprit. Swapped it out with the old plug i had from the rebuild and it has ran flawless since...

Back in 1985 my buddy Rob he asked me to come over with a pick up truck to take his week old RZ500 to the dealers because it wouldn't start. Two days later they called him up and said they found the problem, the gas tank was empty. Another time a guy that lives down the street from us hadn't ridden his street bike since last fall and was towing it up and down the street with the truck trying to bump start it for about 30 minutes. He finally stops at the end of our driveway and asks if I can take a look at the bike because he remembered seeing that I had one. I sat down on the bike turned the key on, flipped the ON switch on and fired it on the first kick.

I also have an uncle that worked for Digital for years and has been flown from Toronto to California on numerous occasions only to find out that the computer he was sent to fix was not plugged in. Trust no one :)

[patblkwell]

Another thing I noticed is that when the bike is in gear (any gear or reverse), it rolls freely with not much resistance at all as if it were still in neutral. I remember on my Hondas that if you put it in gear it would be harder to roll so I'm thinking the clutch may need to be adjusted on my tri-moto?

[patblkwell]

I did put it on jackstands earlier and even took the tires off, and it is still bogging when I get past second gear...ugh.


In theory your motor doesn't care what gear it's in. If it can rev in first and second gear it should be able to rev in third, fourth & fifth unless something in your drivetrain is causing a restriction.

Can you get it up on blocks and safely run it through the gears to see if anything weird is happening?

[yaegerb]

I did put it on jackstands earlier and even took the tires off, and it is still bogging when I get past second gear...ugh.


Bogging with no load??? check valve clearance and check wiring.

[patblkwell]

I did check the valve clearance a couple of weeks ago after I installed the new top end and I set them per the manual. Will check again though. All the wiring appears to be good, what specifically or what part of the wiring could be causing this?

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[danbur55]

Not familiar with these trikes. But where does the airbox get its supply from? Check for restrictions in that area. My 82 200e had dirt dauber nests built up in the frame where the airbox got its supply. Would idle great and take most throttle unloaded but would start shooting ducks under load. Another thought is it binding at the chain or driveshaft

[atc007]

At this point ,my internet DX would be either choke hanging,making it rich as it warms,,which I do not think it is. Or, something is wrong in the transmission. If it is a definite 2nd gear on up problem,it sounds like that is where the problem is going to be. Starts awesome,runs awesome,bogs out in 2nd... Sounds like 2nd...Can you hear or sense a grinding or vibration in the tranny as you are attempting to get it to rev? And if you put it back down to first,,it runs ok? Then you have ruled out the "running" part of the engine.

[El Camexican]

I second the above. Sounds like something transmission or clutch related. This trike has a driveshaft, right? Might want to look at that too although it's unlikely that that would vary from gear to gear.

Try putting it in first and second gear and turning the wheels by hand when it is up in the air, then try it in the higher gears to see if you have more resistance.

[patblkwell]

I've basically cleaned this bike from head to toe and checked every nook and cranny...it is clean as a whistle. When I got it, the airbox had the usual rats nest in it and all, I cleaned it out completely, put a brand new Yamaha air filter so it's all good to go.


Not familiar with these trikes. But where does the airbox get its supply from? Check for restrictions in that area. My 82 200e had dirt dauber nests built up in the frame where the airbox got its supply. Would idle great and take most throttle unloaded but would start shooting ducks under load. Another thought is it binding at the chain or driveshaft

[patblkwell]

The choke is fine...not stuck or anything. Like I said, it starts on the 1st pull, idles perfect, but once you try to go from 2nd to 3rd gear it starts bogging. When you go back to 1st gear, it does pretty much go back to normal except if you try to punch the throttle it boggs a little. It's almost as if once it warms up, it's more likely to bogg if that makes any sense? Maybe something with the choke after all? I haven't notice any grinding or noises coming from the tranny either.


At this point ,my internet DX would be either choke hanging,making it rich as it warms,,which I do not think it is. Or, something is wrong in the transmission. If it is a definite 2nd gear on up problem,it sounds like that is where the problem is going to be. Starts awesome,runs awesome,bogs out in 2nd... Sounds like 2nd...Can you hear or sense a grinding or vibration in the tranny as you are attempting to get it to rev? And if you put it back down to first,,it runs ok? Then you have ruled out the "running" part of the engine.

[Rob Canadian]

Do you have a nice hill located near you. I would try running it up the hill in 1ST or 2ND under harder acceleration and see if this BOG continues.

What I am getting at is fuel flow to the carb or at the carb. You stated that it fires up good. Run it through the first 2 gears then the BOG starts. I am thinking the fuel supply to carb is not enough. IE restriction.

[patblkwell]

Do you have a nice hill located near you. I would try running it up the hill in 1ST or 2ND under harder acceleration and see if this BOG continues.

What I am getting at is fuel flow to the carb or at the carb. You stated that it fires up good. Run it through the first 2 gears then the BOG starts. I am thinking the fuel supply to carb is not enough. IE restriction.I don't have a hill nearby...but I do think that you may be on to something regarding the fuel supply to the carb. Would adjusting the float height possibly fix that? I know fuel flows from the petcock fine to the carb.

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[patblkwell]

Bumping this thread... OK so today I went at it for a few hours again. The carb is getting plenty of fuel, the float height is correct, air fuel mixture screw is properly set, and the carb is clean as a whistle..I double checked it. I also tried different combinations with the air fuel mixture screw and needle height position but nothing really changed. Also if you flip the choke on it will start to die after a few seconds just FYI.

The bike will start on the first pull and purrs like a kitten, and you can rev it from low to high but if you hold down the throttle passed low range it will start to bogg. I have the rear wheels off the ground and off of the bike so that there is no resistance and it still does it. It will go through all of the gears just fine but starts to bogg as you keep trying to give it throttle.

Earlier in this thread, I stated that it only does this when in gear, but it will do it when a neutral if you hold down on the throttle but not when you rev it back-and-forth. I'm starting to think it's either something electrical or possibly the main jet is not allowing enough fuel for some reason? I am 99.99% sure that the carb is all stock and original. The new top end kit I installed is 6cc' slarger than OEM so didn't think rejetting would be necessary?? I'm at a loss so any other ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated, thanks guys!


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[yaegerb]

Again, its electrical. Likely spark advance.

[Rob Canadian]

Can you post up a vid on it? I know you are getting great advice. We are now on page 5 on this. :)

[patblkwell]

Again, its electrical. Likely spark advance.

It may be, what do you suggest I need to do to fix this?


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[yaegerb]

Get a manual and an ohmeter and start checking.

Did you ever check the color of your spark?

[fieldy]

Did you download a manual for this machine? The Honda manuals have a troubleshooting section, dont know if Yammy does. .....Always fires right up right away?

[patblkwell]

Spark is blue and good as I can tell, especially without the electric start working and using the pull start.

Yes I have the manual for it, no luck though. It always fires up on the first pull.


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[fieldy]

Where i would go next...........rats nest= rat garbage sucked in carb somewhere.fully disassemble. Soak it in carberator cleaning solution following label. Blow compressed air through EVERY micro hole on it and in it. Sounds like you did a very good job cleaning the carb but soaking may me a cheap and possible solution. The air routing area the air filter pulls from,,,,nest? Maybe try hanging a gas bottle from the ceiling and feeding the carburetor that way first. Empty your gas tank and blow compressed air up through the petcock to see if rusty. Again cheap easy thing to try. If that dont work maybe talk to someone who knows something. Lol

[patblkwell]

Where i would go next...........rats nest= rat garbage sucked in carb somewhere.fully disassemble. Soak it in carberator cleaning solution following label. Blow compressed air through EVERY micro hole on it and in it. Sounds like you did a very good job cleaning the carb but soaking may me a cheap and possible solution. The air routing area the air filter pulls from,,,,nest? Maybe try hanging a gas bottle from the ceiling and feeding the carburetor that way first. Empty your gas tank and blow compressed air up through the petcock to see if rusty. Again cheap easy thing to try. If that dont work maybe talk to someone who knows something. LolYeah I may have to try that if all else fails. The carb was actually pretty clean inside when I first got it but like you said something could have been sucked in there by chance. Another poster suggested that my spark advance may be off or something so I'm not sure...its nothing obvious that's for sure.

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[El Camexican]

Your diagnostics have become contradictory, so please disregard anything I've said up till now.

The electronics on your engine are probably just a magneto and coil. (Don't take my word for this, check). If so your problem is narrowed down to a weak component, a fuel flow issue which could be too little or too much or an air blockage. Did you check the metal frame section of your intake for blockage? What about your manifold? They can crack. What about your spark plug gap? You can take it down to.018" to see if it helps. That would indicate a weak electrical feed.

[patblkwell]

MAJOR UPDATE: I finally got the bike running right…I ended up boiling the carburetor in lemon juice mixed with water and a lot of crap came out of it that must have been trapped in there from the bike sitting for years. I then sprayed carb cleaner all throughout it and blew out every little hole and crevice several times over with an air compressor nozzle. I also ordered a carb rebuild kit because I was missing a few of the small rubber O-rings and such. I put everything back together, put fresh gas in it and the bike is running perfect now. No more bogging down and it runs through all the gears with plenty of power. Thanks again to all of you who participated in this thread, I'll be posting some pics of the finished product very soon (just have a few cosmetic things to do to it before she is all done).


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