Display or Support Stands

[HairyJR]

Know I've spent too much time thinking about how to make stands either to raise the tires off the floor or to display. Last year took the broken support legs from pop-up shade canopy's and made a couple stands. They got tires off the ground but where not easily movable. Have way too many toys, first thought was to make the trikes I have at my sons garage on display movable, safe for the kids and looky-loo's to climb on. Decided to use regular box tubing with rolling casters but is costly. Made a couple different versions, mounting set up also needed to be completed by one person, no additional tools needed.

Guys post up your versions as I need to make several more....

First stands I made.
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Next version using box tubing.
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Trikes now off floor and on display stands at my son's garage shop.
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"HJ" 245644 :beer

[christph]

Looks good. Is it adjustable so it works with a variety of machines?

[big specht]

Looks good I've been wanting to make some for my 90's

[HairyJR]

Looks good. Is it adjustable so it works with a variety of machines?

Like all projects, each one has revisions. Yes it's adjustable front to rear, 1" center bar slips and is pinned for axle center lines. Also the support plates are drilled to allow up and down for tire clearance. The rear support bracket dimensions are universal to many models, front support brackets are unique to each axle width, Tri Zinger, ATC70 or 90-110's.

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[vintagemotorsports]

These are the stands i use to make like 10 years ago for the US90s, I have been wanting to make them again but i never have a free minute to do them . mine were box steel with a receiver tube to connect the front and back I only did this so i could ship them in a smaller box . they are atc90 specific only grabbed the rear axle on either side of the carrier and then supported the underside of each footpeg this allowed the 90 to float off the ground without any support under the front axle and risking scratching the paint on the fork . these worked very well I need to make some more every atc should be off the ground to preserve the tires makes a huge difference

[HairyJR]

These are the stands i use to make like 10 years ago for the US90s, ......
. these worked very well I need to make some more every atc should be off the ground to preserve the tires makes a huge difference

Thank you for the posting and attachment pic. Hope you don't mine, I remember seeing that picture back a couple years ago and in my mind have reproduced or copied it. After making several of them have come to the conclusion their a lot of time, work and expense especially when you have limited tools and no welding skills. My first version was similar to yours, but found out early on when my granddaughter climbed onto it and tipped it over. Here's several mock up pic's.

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"HJ" 245677 :beer

[vintagemotorsports]

No I dont mind at all, That was one thing i always thought of they are not made to have someone get on the bike while its on the stand but I did worry about kids climbing up and having an issue tipping over could probably resolve that by coming up with a strap that secured the rear axle tight to the rear mount such as a piece of high strength velcro or something and put a hoop on both ends of c channel , i like your idea for the front axle very well though out as well . so many different ways to do it , your right i never made money after buying the material cutting and fitting and welding then cleaning and painting it takes allot of time . I was thinking of a way to bend up aluminum tube to make it less separate parts but havent had any time to really think it out , maybe someday if things ever slow down .

[HairyJR]

Completed a couple more stands, have most of my toys covered out of site and while I that them staged on the driveway wife asked " when did you get them, I've never seen them ", what she doesn't know is there's more....

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[Jwheeler]

HairyJ they look great . You did a great job building them . :naughty:

[HairyJR]

......and here's the more. Should be the last stands needed until I find another deal that can't be passed up and follows me home.

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"HJ" 245898 :beer

[Jwheeler]

Hairy thank you for all your help today with the drive shaft. Thank you . JW

[Joseph Farrow]

......and here's the more. Should be the last stands needed until I find another deal that can't be passed up and follows me home.

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"HJ" 245898 :beer

I know you have more than that.....:naughty:

[HairyJR]

I know you have more than that.....:naughty:

Joseph you know me well.....ya a couple parts bikes with special aftermarket goodies and two different aftermarket frames needing repairs before starting new project builds. These ATC's set covered on my patio and I needed a easier way to be move them for family get to gathers.

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[El Camexican]

Sweet baby Jesus Hairy! You set the bar high on those stands!!!

I'm building a couple dirt bike lifts inspired by your thread (and an urgent need to get two bikes up in the air at the same time) but I'm embarrassed to put pictures up after seeing yours :lol:

Very nice! :beer

[HairyJR]

Nico I've seen your handy work and abilities on special projects. What type of bike lift? Something to get tires off the kick stand or the floor? Maybe a lift to get them up on the indoor garage platform balcony. I bought a car lift before retiring to work on my model A project, filled in between the runners and now has become a storage platform for other toys , XR500, 350x and the LT500.

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[El Camexican]

I call them dirt bike stands, but they can lift a trike too. Basically heavy duty copies of a cheap unit I have that's starting to bend and twist. The part that goes under the cradle is a lot more stable than the old one and I added a bar that can be flipped up to get the front wheel in the air, or left down to work on the rear wheel. I've never liked having both up at the same time, too easy to knock the bike off.

Plastic inserts for the ends of the tubes are on the way. Can't forget the details :)

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[HairyJR]

Plastic inserts for the ends of the tubes are on the way. Can't forget the details :)



...details, bought close to 100 of them caps and now I'll need more. Nico thanks for your posting does exactly what I hoped, has given another stand idea. Been racking my brain for an idea for rising two Z50 mini-trail bikes off wooden blocks, hate bikes without center stands. So I don't go through a trial and error need to know the 90 degree lift arm ratio which allows your lift to lock into place in the up position.

"HJ" 245961 :beer

[Red Rider]

So I don't go through a trial and error need to know the 90 degree lift arm ratio which allows your lift to lock into place in the up position.
Doesn't look like it would be to much trial and error. It appears to me, that "90 degree lifting" arm needs to go about 1" over center before the foot pedal contacts the ground, and then gravity will lock it in place.

[El Camexican]

Doesn't look like it would be to much trial and error. It appears to me, that "90 degree lifting" arm needs to go about 1" over center before the foot pedal contacts the ground, and then gravity will lock it in place.


Something like that. I tried to copy the geometry of the one I had, but because it used different sized tubes for the base and a totally different perch (sheet metal VS my 1" tubes) I had to play a bit with the length of some parts.

My first attempt didn't go past center enough when fully extended. I thought I was going to make it easier to lift the pedal to lower the bike (the original is a bi*ch to release in sneakers) but it turned out that with only about 50 pounds of force the "lock" position can be overcome, so I had to shorted the bar connected to the pedal by 1" to achieve a ratio that locks when extended.

I'm going to put up some photos and call them A, B, C etc. then I'll give measurements of each part including the lowest and highest heights as well as a few tips and things I'd do differently if I had to do this again. Please be patient.

[El Camexican]

Started with the base, 1.50" 14ga. tube. Would have used 11ga. if I had it. I made it perfectly flat, but if you raise the center section a little above the ground it would be more stable on an uneven surface.

In order to have as much of the inner sliding vertical tube as possible inside the outer tube when in the fully extended position I cut a hole in the cross tube of the base. That added allows the vertical lift tube to be about 1.40" longer and still keep the retracted position short enough to fit under a lower bike like a DR400.

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Very important! Get yourself some 1.25" Square tube with a .072" to .076" wall for the stationary vertical tube and some 1" 14, 12 or better yet 11ga. for the inner tube that lifts. Make sure the 1.25" doesn't have too nasty of a weld seam and ne certain to position it so that the weld seam is to the left or right of the pedal swing as there is a lot of friction against the inside of that 1.25" tube as you push the bike up with your foot. You need to grease the assembly after paint, or it will score out badly and start to stick. Too tight a fit and it will bind, too loose and the bike flops around like a flag in the wind. Because I only had 16ga. tube for my 1.25" I tack welded a bunch of spots on the inner tube and then ground them to the point that they didn't bind, but weren't too loose either. Kind of like knurling.

[El Camexican]

You need to pass bolts through the top of the inner lift tube and the 45 degree brace that ties the base to the outer horizontal tube. The unit I was copying just drilled holes in the tubes, but as we all know the walls of the tubes eventually give in to the pressure from the bolts and everything gets loose, so I like to ran a 1/2" OD. round tube through the holes, welded them, ground one side almost flat and the other sides were left a little long so I could grind them after mocking everything together to keep the moving parts as close as possible to the centerline of the stand, but still not rub on anything, but more importantly to allow the bolts to be snugged up without bending the square tubes.

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The arm, or bar that connects between the top of the vertical lift tube and the foot pedal arm needs to pass very close to the fixed vertical tube, so you can either get a tapered flat head socket cap bolt and counter sink the back of the flat bar, or do what I did and drill and tap it for a 3/8" rod, bevel the edges around the back side, thread the rod in and leave it about 1/16" below the surface and weld and grind it flush.

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BTW, All the flat bar is 1" X 1/4". I would not go any thinner or narrower. All the bolts are 3/8" Use at least gr.5 if you can, especially for the welded stud.

[El Camexican]

I bent up the foot pedal before determining the lever length and cut. Everyone's is bound to be a little different, so I'm make that first. Remember that you need a tab to get your foot under to release the stand and it needs to be pretty sturdy.

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Then I cut the flat bar to suit the pedal and left it longer than needed, like about 5". Using Vise Grips I mocked up the flat bat to be centered on the pivot hole. I had tacked it in place, but only tack one spot, so that you can twist it around later to get everything perfectly lined up before you weld.

I then the flat bar rest on the base of the lift and positioned the pedal on it so that the pedal was on the table at the same time as the flat bar was resting on the tube. In other words, there are now two positive stops. You don't want the pedal sticking up off the ground where someone could catch a shoe lace on it and knock the bike off onto a kid or pet.

I then tack welded the pedal on place, marked the pivot hole, removed it, welded it and drilled it, but don't cut the extra 5" off yet! I drilled the holes exactly 3/8" and then just reamed them enough to fit the bolts.

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[El Camexican]

Now the hard part, determining where to make the 90 degree point on the foot pedal bar. This determines the lock position as well as the height. I suggest working on the edge of a table to that the excess portion of the flat bar you haven't cut yet can pass freely as you test your geometry. Otherwise the flat bar will hit the table or floor.

Tack weld the soon to be short end of the pedal lever where you think it should go. You can also leave that bar long too and just run it beside the longer bar until you are happy with everything. Then mark the bars and cut them.

You want to be sure that the foot pedal isn't higher that the top of the stand in the down position. That the pivot point has gone far enough past center when fully extended to remain locked with weigh on it and that the stand is high enough for your bike.

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[El Camexican]

When you go to bolt the assembly together have a bunch of washers, over length bolts (so you can cut them afterwards) and nylock nuts. You want to have everything as perfectly lined up vertically as possible as any deviation will add a lot of stress to the mechanism and the effort needed to raise it up with a bike on it. You also want to keep the moving parts as close to the centerline of the stand as possible. If your flat bar is just slightly brushing against the stationary vertical tube you've got it right.

As far as the part that goes on top of the stand and holds your ride up, that's up to you. I made mine to hold my bikes as best as possible and to heck with all others. You can be more generic if you want and just use a flat metal sheet.

What will cross over to all designs is the fact that the vertical inner bar leans slightly away from the pedal side when extended with weight on it due to the necessary looseness between it and the fixed vertical tube. This always gnawed at me when I had my store bought stand and sure enough my stands did the same thing, so I cut the top off and welded it back on with about a 5 degree upward tip from the pedal side. This makes the bikes perfectly level on the stand.

I'll get the measurements up ASAP.

[Red Rider]

My first attempt didn't go past center enough when fully extended. I thought I was going to make it easier to lift the pedal to lower the bike (the original is a bi*ch to release in sneakers) but it turned out that with only about 50 pounds of force the "lock" position can be overcome,...Maybe a lockout pin should be incorporated into the design, regardless of how far over-center it goes, just for peace of mind & safety too. :wondering

[HairyJR]

Maybe a lockout pin should be incorporated into the design, regardless of how far over-center it goes, just for peace of mind & safety too. :wondering

Had same thought, maybe a clevis pin to lock in up position during long storage periods. Used clevis pins to locate the front and rear supports on my trike stands as they can slide on the center bar.

"HJ" 246017 :beer

[kiser]

Really nice stands everybody! They are all very good ideas! Off topic but I really like your suspended bike Hairy! Very cool!!

[HairyJR]

kiser the suspended bike gets pushed in and out of the garage every day I work in there. It's a back burner project I'm collecting special parts to replicate the Valley Brake & Wheel bike I built and sold years ago. This one has a Ol Deuce adapter fitting a '81 250r front end. Build thread and pics when it all comes together.

"HJ" 246037 :beer

[kiser]

I'll keep my eyes peeled! Thanks for sharing!

[Billy Golightly]

Here is one Jim Smith had at Trikefest this year for a special ATC70

https://photos.smugmug.com/Trikefest-2017/i-pm9jBFJ/0/22bb3548/L/20170619_133201-L.jpg (https://wgolightly.smugmug.com/Trikefest-2017/i-pm9jBFJ/A)

[jeswinehart]

Here is one Jim Smith had at Trikefest this year for a special ATC70

https://photos.smugmug.com/Trikefest-2017/i-pm9jBFJ/0/22bb3548/L/20170619_133201-L.jpg (https://wgolightly.smugmug.com/Trikefest-2017/i-pm9jBFJ/A)

I'll text Jim and ask for the video of it rotating. Thanks for posting Billy.

john