Amateur Mechanic Needs '86 350x Help...

[Caminofeld]

Hello all, I finally got to tear into my ROUGH 1986 350x, had some problems, and need some help...

First thing I did was change the spark plug, mixed some Royal Purple in with fresh gas, hit it with a little starting fluid, then tried to kick her over. With the choke half on she would run for 2-3 seconds then die...especially when I hit the throttle. So tonight I pulled the carb, thoroughly cleaned it, and am having the same issue. Should I still believe the carb is the problem or is there other stuff I should be checking?

I also pulled the old, rotted out exhaust and replaced it with a DG system. During the removal process I snapped one of the header studs (the hardest one to get to, of course). Just wondering how important/difficult it is to replace?

I'm feeling like a bit of a failure right now, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[yaegerb]

Hello all, I finally got to tear into my ROUGH 1986 350x, had some problems, and need some help...

First thing I did was change the spark plug, mixed some Royal Purple in with fresh gas, hit it with a little starting fluid, then tried to kick her over. With the choke half on she would run for 2-3 seconds then die...especially when I hit the throttle. So tonight I pulled the carb, thoroughly cleaned it, and am having the same issue. Should I still believe the carb is the problem or is there other stuff I should be checking?

I also pulled the old, rotted out exhaust and replaced it with a DG system. During the removal process I snapped one of the header studs (the hardest one to get to, of course). Just wondering how important/difficult it is to replace?

I'm feeling like a bit of a failure right now, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

350x is a 4 stroke, not a 2. Drain your tank and use straight 89 or higher octane. The header studs are needed so you need to extract that one. Is there any bolt left outside the head or did it snap flush with the head?

[Caminofeld]

Thanks for the reply! The Royal Purple I used was just the carb cleaning additive, not 2 stroke oil. I run it in all my old vehicles and have never had a problem.

The head stud has about 1/4" left on it and I have no clue how to even attempt to extract it...

[yaegerb]

Get some kroil oil aerosol or the little oil can and wet the bolt a couple times a day for a week or so. I would also take a small hammer and tap the end of the bolt while you are applying the kroil. then take a propane or map gas torch and heat around the bolt, but be super careful. While it's still hot, clamp a set of vise grips on the bolt and if you did all the above it should come out with no problems. You could also try tack welding a nut if there's enough meat left.

[atc007]

Your carb is still dirty. You need a good air compressor with a great air nozzle. Preferably 175 psi,but 130 will suffice with a good gun. I don't see that stud coming out unless you can access it and weld a nut on it. The heat from the weld will do all the heating you need and bring it out. These are known for this problem for the last 20 years. I'm amazed you got 3 off... Be careful with the air to not tear your diaphragm ,but every other air and fuel passage must be wide open. You'll get it,just be patient.

[wonderboy]

x2 on the carb. It needs to be cleaned better. Like ATC007 says above, and I've heard said elsewhere, blow air through each little passage way. Pretty much if you shoot air in somewhere, it needs to come out somewhere else. You need to make sure all passageways are open. Sometimes air is hard to tell, so carb cleaner shooting through the passages will be easier to see where it is going. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES! Carb cleaner in the eyes burns (ask me how I know...).

With regard to the head studs, they are a ROYAL PAIN. I have never once been able to extract one of the studs after it broke. I've tried probably a half dozen in my time. Repairing on the machine is very tough, but not impossible (much easier to pull the head, but that is a whole other can or worms). Try what yaegerb says above about the welding a nut trick. That method is used a lot by members on here with good success (just not me). If that doesn't work, you will need good sharp drill bits, good centering skills, and more than likely some form of thread repair kit.

[BOB MARLIN]

x3 on the carb. Pay close attention to the jets with the sideways holes in them. Make sure you can get a piece of wire through all the sideways holes.

[3 Wheel Drive]

X4 on the carb, clean that sukka out!

[barnett468]

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3ww member flying w is a master with these carbs and if you can't get it fixed you might send him a pm although I have not seen hi, post lately but someone here might have his contact info.

ALL the jets must have clear holes. They often get plugged up if they sat with gas in them. Take a strand of wire from some regular stranded electrical wire or pull a wire out of a wire wheel and push it into each jet to see if it is clear. You can also press the thin long tip you get with wd40 or carb or brake cleaner etc against each jet then GENTLY spray while you look inside the carb bore from the back of the carb and see if the spray comes out inside the bore or from the holes in the rear of carb. Spray inside these holes also from the back of the carb.

Now, if your carb is still on the engine, let's we see if your float/gas level is close to correct first because if it is way off, it will never run properly irregardless of how clean your carb is.

1. To do this, get a piece of clear plastic line at least 6" long then push it over the nipple on the bottom of the carb. Get line that fits snug so it won't leak.

2. You can hold the free end of the line next to the top of the carb or lightly zip tie or wire tie it to the top of the carb.

3. Turn the gas on.

4. Turn the slotted screw located in the bottom of the float bowl, counter clockwise 2 full turns.

3. The gas should enter the tube and stop close to where the bowl meets the carb body. If it is much more than around 3/16" higher or lower than this level it will not run properly.

3ww member flying w is a master with these carbs and if you can't get it fixed you might send him a pm although I have not seen hi, post lately but someone here might have his contact info.

ALL the jets must have clear holes. They often get plugged up if they sat with gas in them. Take a strand of wire from some regular stranded electrical wire or pull a wire out of a wire wheel and push it into each jet to see if it is clear. You can also press the thin long tip you get with wd40 or carb or brake cleaner etc against each jet then GENTLY spray while you look inside the carb bore from the back of the carb and see if the spray comes out inside the bore or from the jets/tiny holes in the rear of carb. Spray inside these tiny holes also from the back of the carb.

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/EmwAAOSwYvFZEPcO/s-l1600.jpg


http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2GQAAOSw8lpZEPcY/s-l1600.jpg



PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON :lol:


.

[barnett468]

.

ALWAYS WEAR GOGGLES WHEN SPRAYING CLEANERS

Especially when pressing those long thin nozzles against a jet or other parts etc because it can splatter outwards several feet and I can assure you that it is a very unpleasant experience to get any of those sprays in your eyes.



PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON :lol:

[mgusciora]

Pm me I have TONS of 86 350x


~Matt Gusciora

[Dirtcrasher]

Gotta remove every jet and soak them, spray the fuel passages with more carb cleaner and blow them out with compressed air.

Remove the fuel screw, order goes screw, spring, washer and then o-ring. LIGHTLY bottom it out into the bottom of the carb and turn it back out 1.5 turns.

Make sure your air filter is cleaned and oiled as well. Put the airbox lid on if it's mostly stock...

[Caminofeld]

Thank you so much guys!

I've got the Kroil ordered and should be arriving in the next couple days. Plan is to repeatedly douse it for a week, then weld at nut on, heat it with a torch, and try to unscrew it.

Thanks to you guys I now have a list of things to check and clean. I've also ordered a rebuild kit with new jets, needle, etc.

FlyingW sold me an amazing carb for my 250sx, so I'll hit him or mgusciora up if I can't get it right.