Tri Z question

[this old rz]

Hello all, Its been awile..Thanks for your kind words of support regarding my wifes passing. That means more than anything to me and thank you to all.

Today, I popped off the carb & boot to my Tri Z today. The seller said it had the Yamaha "wrench report" modification done to it..but I do not think so as I only see one boost port.
Am I correct in thinking this is a stock unmodified cylinder?

Also can You give me info on this carb is it stock and the size? also this reedblock as well is it stock or aftermarket?
.Any and all info is appreciated..I'm learning. The bike has never really run..I tried a compression test and it read low at around 80psi if I recall...but people told me I have the wrong kind of compression tester?? Never heard such a thing.

I Will need to do a leakdown test as well, my local shop in Indio wants $200.00 to do a leakdown, that's seems ridiculous to me bordering on stupid in addition to ripoff, another shop refused to work on a 3 wheeler, even though he had a 87 YZ250 on their workbench...IDIOTS.

I suppose if I have a stock cylinder..that's a good thing! If I decide to do the mod in the future, I can make sure it's done right.

Right now Im looking to any of you who are kind enough to help guide me through some steps top to bottom to evaluate the condition and then get her running. I just need alot of help going step by step to get this old dirty girl running�� THANKS!

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[3 Wheel Drive]

Your reeds are aftermarket on a stock block, oem reeds were steel. The carb and intake look stock. The head may have been milled down for higher compression.

A stock tri z is still a lot of fun, at least your not dealing with a hack job ported cylinder.

[El Camexican]

I believe the first part of the wrench report was the head mod mentioned above as well as raising the exhaust port slightly. The addition of the boost port was part of phase 2.

[this old rz]

Okay...built my leak down tester...She has 100% Total instant leak down failure, lower cylinder and upper cylinder. Tightening did nothing. Needs a complete strip down and inspection. Can someone tell me if I could do this own on my own with some good guidence from you folks, or should I just drop this off at Klemm? Anyone feel like teaching me a few things? I've never checked a crank, nor know how to visually inspect crank bearing vs a good set, I could do a top end, but porting and figuring out my cylinder specs and ports might be too much for me...lol. Klemm sent me a price breakdown for all his services for the Tri Z...gotta say dammned reasonable.
Thanks for any and all replies.

[sledcrazyinCT]

While I am a DIY if you find Klemm is reasonable then you would have piece of mind knowing it was done correctly

[RubberSalt]

You may not need to do a complete rebuild. While your doing the leak down, spray some soapy water on all the sealing surfaces/gaskets/spark plugs/leak tester it self. If its a simple leak around the intake, awesome, if it's the base gasket - well thats coming off to do the top end taken care of.

When the top end is off, you can check the connecting rod simply by seeing if it moves up and down. Side to side is normal (per the manual). Any up and down play = crank needs rebuilt.