Removing origional left side stator cover on an 86 2oox

[fieldy]

Checked the resisrance on the harness and book says look at the altenator. The pulse generator ohmed out fine but the altenator test was no good news. Wiring harness checked fine. So i removed the footpeg and the shifter and cover bolts. Then bumped on the cover with some oak and a hammer, tried prying with an oak board to no avail. So decided to step back and ask how do i get this cover to come loose without doing damage? It is on there good since 1986. There are a couple of allen plugs on the cover that i havent removed yet. I dont wanna break this period.

[fieldy]

2# sand hammer and hammer wedging oak between frame and cover. There is a place on the top rear where you can really pry and the cover is moving but i am not gonna pry there anymore because it will break i believe. Will a heat gun help break this seal?

[Shep1970]

There's one or two bolts on the inboard side of the chain area, did u get those out? One is set way in.

Shep

[fieldy]

Ive gandered there, i will look again, thank you.

[fieldy]

Well Shep you got me looking and even though no bolts were around or behind the sprocket, i found one recessed right on the front. Right in front of me. This trike is sitting on the tires down low, so i missed it. There are 9 bolts. I had eight out. You got me lookin.

[fieldy]

All i know to do now is order a new stator. Any suggestions on where to get a factory Honda stator or other options? Im gonna look and see if i can see whats wrong with this one.

[Shep1970]

Glad you found it, probably the recessed one with the copper washer. No idea on the new stator- ive seen a few aftermarket ones on ebay but again no idea. Good luck
Shep

[fieldy]

Yes, a copper washer of some sort in there. Thanks again.

[fieldy]

If anyone has experience with the 86 x or knows a place to get a new Honda stator i could sure use some advice. A dealership that is a good possibility of finding a stator. I may replace the pulse generator while i have it apart. I cant see any problems or bad connections on the stator. I guess it just internally went bad or something. It was running great and when i stopped and turned off the kill switch it didnt want to die immediately, like a kill switch problem, but then shut off and no spark after that. The stator tested bad as stated earlier. Pulse generator tests great. Coil checked ok. New spark plug. I did buy a new factory handlebar kill switch before i ohmed everything.

[Dirtcrasher]

You have a good meter?? and it tests as not in the good range??

But, with the other stuff you said, I'd unplug the harness that goes up to the headlight and unplug the single black wire with a white stripe, it should have spark with all of that removed. Rules out any other wiring and or switch internal issues....

I see stators for that all the time on EBAY, I wonder how many I have.... I'll take a look.

[fieldy]

Yeah the meter was in range on everything except the stator(altenator exciter coil) which did not ohm any resistance from Bl/R wire to ground while it was still together as manual said. Then basically unplugged the exciter coil wire and still no resistance- book says replace. So its an isolated test on the exciter coil. I have already removed it today and it looks healthy but i will do some rechecking on the upper harness. I may put it back together somewhat and recheck again plus check the way you are describing Dirtcrasher. I will try to check it tomorrow night. Appreciate it thanks.

[Husky250]

NOt sure if it will help but "Ricky Stator" will wind pretty much anything you need. He's a friend to anyone who rides old Huskys. It may cost a pretty penny but I did drop about a grand on my 86 to get a new rod machined onto the crank.... It ain't cheap keep ing that second generation running.

[fieldy]

$1000! Was that for a similar to stock rod and motor? Ive had her since she was new and this is the first time shes let me down. I have seen the Ricky Stators on ebay, about $160. Surley they are as good as stock. Thought about buying a used one on ebay. Someone told me on here once that you could coat a new gasket with rtv and let it dry and use and reuse the gasket, heck a new set of gaskets is $35.00.
If that will seal the oil in then i think trying a used one first might be the first thing to try. I guess it just quit. What goes wrong with stators? I know people replace them alot. Any electrical guys know? This one looks fabulous.

[fieldy]

I used to really watch the Powroll tests and reviews. Remember them? They were always out of my reach price wise though.

[fieldy]

Been forever but about to put the new stator and same pulse generator (checked fine) in the X. I was going to use some blue loctite on the pulse generator. 3 stator bolts showed no sign of thread locker. Going to clean the stator cover up and put a new Honda gasket on there. What sealant should i use on the gasket?
Yeah and i rotated the flywheel so guess it has to be timed? At least check timing. Also clean an oil screen off if I'm thinking straight. Will look in book tomorrow.


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Should the brass ends they sent be soddered to the wires they supplied or just crimped good?
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Pictures are a little fuzzy. Really hoping thing has spark after this! I paid to have the old stator checked and they agreed it wasn't working.

[fieldy]

Well i didn't get to that today....dog ate three +/- rat bait chunks which ended the joy of me taking time for myself today. Think she'll be ok, called the poison center on bucket.
It was a humid underwear drencher of a day and went inside to cool down, forgot i let her out and she zipped into the shed and ate it up.
Plan on the x cover is to use no gasket sealer except around the grommets, black rtv.

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[fieldy]

Got it running today, new clutch next chance i get. Got the Barnett clutch kit. Think i'm gonna use the springs they sent too. If they are to stiff i will learn a lesson i guess.

[fieldy]

Decided to work on this origional worn out 32 year old clutch. Using Barnett friction plates and springs. Very little clutch basket wear and here is what an oil screen looks like that never had been cleaned.
I always used regular valvoline 10w40 and changed the oil 2 or 3 times a year. Then once a year or less as it sat. Tells me that new high priced synthetic may be ridiculous somewhat.
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The 10w40 valvoline in quarts isnt carried everywhere like it used to be so went to napa for it.

254947

Can a strapwrench be used to hold this clutch pack for dissassemly?

[Shep1970]

Decided to work on this origional worn out 32 year old clutch. Using Barnett friction plates and springs. Very little clutch basket wear and here is what an oil screen looks like that never had been cleaned.
I always used regular valvoline 10w40 and changed the oil 2 or 3 times a year. Then once a year or less as it sat. Tells me that new high priced synthetic may be ridiculous somewhat.
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The 10w40 valvoline in quarts isnt carried everywhere like it used to be so went to napa for it.

254947

Can a strapwrench be used to hold this clutch pack for dissassemly?

Ive used an old copper penny to keep the gears from turning behind/next to the clutch to loosen the nut. Unstake the nut first and be gentle unless you have a new nut. If you haven’t yet you should clean out your oil filter rotor - cover right there with three screws—- that’s where the sludge/crud will be. “Don’t strip those screws though”

Shep

[wonderboy]

No sealant on gaskets. You can oil it if you want to make it easier to remove later (and not stick as bad).

Those electrical terminals are a crimp design, but are not meant for the regular hardware store crimpers. Those are supposed to use electrical terminal crimpers like these:
https://www.techtoolsupply.com/Sargent-Open-Barrel-Crimp-30-16AWG-p/ros-1026ct.htm

Here is more than you wanted to read about crimping:
https://hackaday.com/2017/02/09/good-in-a-pinch-the-physics-of-crimped-connections/


But, if you don't plan on doing much electrical work, probably isn't worth buying this tool, so crimp them with whatever you've got, but solder them to make them secure.

[fieldy]

No sealant on gaskets. You can oil it if you want to make it easier to remove later (and not stick as bad).

Those electrical terminals are a crimp design, but are not meant for the regular hardware store crimpers. Those are supposed to use electrical terminal crimpers like these:
https://www.techtoolsupply.com/Sargent-Open-Barrel-Crimp-30-16AWG-p/ros-1026ct.htm

Here is more than you wanted to read about crimping:
https://hackaday.com/2017/02/09/good-in-a-pinch-the-physics-of-crimped-connections/


But, if you don't plan on doing much electrical work, probably isn't worth buying this tool, so crimp them with whatever you've got, but solder them to make them secure.

Yes i ended up soddering the connections after i used some regular Stripper crimpers. I have never heard of oiling the gaskets before. Was told about letting gasketmaker dry and then assembling, making the gasket also reuseable. I may try the oiling gasket on the clutch side. Now my old Kawasaki man told me to use silicone on the clutch cover bolts a while back talking some racing. The silicone won't chemically react like locktight and the bolts can't come out because of the silicon i think it was.
Gonna be outta the atv dream world again till it rains.

Thanks for the crimping tip. I will investigate that further. Got plenty of dc wiring to do and like to step my connections up a notch.excellent, thanks.

[wonderboy]

If you go with those crimpers (I have them) there are two sides. The A-B-C notches are used for the main crimp and curl both sides of the metal into the wire and give a perfect tight crimp. the C-D notches on the other side are for the strain relief (not all terminals have the strain relief area). These are not curled into the wire but are crimped down on top of the wire... Anyway, way more info than you need now, but if you are planning on messing with these connectors (or any others) very much, these make really nice work of the terminals.

With regard to the gaskets and sealants, as long as you don't have gouges or warping in your surfaces, the plain gasket with no sealant is the way to go. The oiling is a little tip that I learned on this site and really helps if you need to get back inside the motor again (keeps the paper from sticking and tearing). Also, I'm pretty sure those are all blind holes that are used to attach the side covers... there shouldn't be a need to use silicone to seal the bolts. If you want, a little dab of blue loctite can make sure they are secure, but I don't use it on side covers (but am a fan of it elsewhere) and I don't recall having a bolt work loose there.

Silicone RTV use on 3-wheelers is typically frowned upon in general, except in a very few places where a non-hardening sealant like Hondabond is called for (like the rocker cover on the 350x). Yes, people use it, but it is either not really needed in the first place or being used as a band-aid for something else being wrong (warps, gouges, cracks, poor fit, etc).

[fieldy]

As i had expected running into some trouble removing the oil rotor screws. I was using a copper wrist braclet to wedge the gears and had started spraying blaster on the rotor screws last week.
I believed that they were jis screws and tried what looked to be the best size out of the three i had....and that was a bust. The screws were feeling like they were soft and i could see and feel them being damaged turning by hand. Tried a regular phillips by hand and that was not the answer. Then i decided to use an impact driver with the bits that came with the impact driver, those are quite beefy l, i would say about 5/16 hex shank. I figure they are not jis. Smacking the impact driver loosened the first screw the i broke two of the big phillips tips and got the second screw out. Broke a third tip trying to get the third screw out. No success and its badly stripped. I had the mindset to use caution and avoid this. What would be the thing to try now?255251
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[Shep1970]

Yup, those screws are not fun. To get that screw out I think I’d try to cut a slot for a flat blade screwdriver first with a dremel saw. Or If that doesn’t work maybe a small chisel and try to rotate out. Or use a 1/4” drill bit drill in just far enough so the head falls off (no deeper). Personally Id use a “reverse drill bit” they usually back out a Broken or frozen bolt easily.
Be careful hammering/on that part it’s only alum on a steel shaft.

Try your “best” to get it out without Drilling anything first though...........
Throw out those Phillips screws- get some Allen head screws for assembly255258 255259

Shep

[fieldy]

Finally got back to this and now reassembled. Have a motion pro clutch cable on the way. The trike started, kicked and ran just fine. It jumps when i let the clutch out now!
Inside the oil rotor was pretty darn clean also, just a black film on the surface inside.

The challenges for me were removing the oil rotor cover screws and unstaking the two shaft nuts that hold the oil rotor and clutch outer. A few this and thats should make it a solid rider again.

Thanks for the advice!
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