New Project - 86 200X

[DDQ]

I am very apprehensive about this project. I spent a little more than I wanted to on a bike with unknown motor condition and cosmetic damage. I have never messed with any atc larger than a 125 and it seems like it is going to be very expensive to aquire the items I do not have : rear fenders, seat, and front fender which is cracked and brittle. The man I purchased it from says he bought it from a man who had parked the bike for 23 years. The seller I purchased it from took the motor out to start a rebuild but lost interest and got scared.The motor is free and the trans will bench shift but the seller says when he took the covers off to paint them something did not look right with the timing chains so he put it back together and gave up. Needless to say, I will be looking for an online service manual and taking a look at the timing chain assembly. I am HOPING this motor will not need the cases split.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170316_120527_zpsxwmmcpyf.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170316_120527_zpsxwmmcpyf.jpg.html)

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170316_121001_zpsmrx5drgt.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170316_121001_zpsmrx5drgt.jpg.html)

[6bt]

Try Maier for plastic? It's a lot nicer then it used to be.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

Is the seat pan built into the fenders?

[86125m]

no you are going to have to find a pan and foam if you do not have them.

[DDQ]

Is the pan metal or plastic?

[shindig]

Here's a nice one on ebay...original plastic plan, foam and seat cover. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-ATC200X-Honda-OEM-Seat-Original-Cover-Pan-Base-86-87-200X-ATC-200-X-1987-/222432557262?fits=Year%3A1986%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item33ca0378ce:g:ydkAAOSwax5YvwYi&vxp=mtr

[Shep1970]

Looks like a real good start, hows the gas tank? Maybe the trannies fine, it wont shift standing still you need to at least turn
The output shaft (small sprocket). just be paitient(sp) with the seat you'll find one. Make sure theres no nasty blue sealant squirting out from any gaskets.... If there is open it up anyway(sides) to clean it out.

Shep

[shindig]

You'll also need the seat bracket if you don't have one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-ATC200X-Honda-OEM-Seat-Rear-Fender-Bracket-Latch-Holder-86-87-200X-ATC-1987-/222433702099?fits=Make%3AHonda&hash=item33ca14f0d3:g:OJcAAOSwol5YwGJ7&vxp=mtr

[DDQ]

The tank is rusty but I have seen worse. I will be able to clean and coat it I with no problems I believe.

If the pan is plastic I guess this is it. Am I better off trying to use it or buy a used seat?


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170316_131036_zpseahpli9u.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170316_131036_zpseahpli9u.jpg.html)


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170316_131027_zpsi2a79r2s.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170316_131027_zpsi2a79r2s.jpg.html)

[shindig]

That's the plastic pan, but you will still need the foam. That pan looks rough, was it melted? I would just check ebay for a decent pan, foam and seat cover instead of wasting your time with that pan. Seat covers can be had for $30-$40 on ebay.

[DDQ]

Thanks. That pan is not melted but it looks like the plastic sat outside in the sun for a loooong time.

[knappyfeet]

I am very apprehensive about this project. I spent a little more than I wanted to on a bike with unknown motor condition and cosmetic damage. I have never messed with any atc larger than a 125

The seller I purchased it from took the motor out to start a rebuild but lost interest and got scared.

There is no secret that parts for the second generation X will be costly and more scarce but there out there.

Step 1.........before you purchase 1 thing for this bike......put it back together and get it running. If you need something to get it running that's different but anything else will have to wait just in case the internals are catastrophic. You may need to split the cases but that's fine but first try to get it running without it. When someone says "it doesn't look right in there" that's normal cause for concern but not a deal breaker. Seriously........not one cent until it idles (unless parts are needed to make it idle).

Step 2.........everything else. I've always found things are way more expensive when your looking for them than when your not. This thing can easily be $2000 plus in parts so take your time. I've seen things at swap meets so make the rounds........even CL.........although the era of naive sellers was over in 2015....still some don't know.

Good luck. Here's some reading on my 200X recomission if you get board.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/174412-86-Honda-200X-Recommission-ATC

[DDQ]

There is no secret that parts for the second generation X will be costly and more scarce but there out there.

Step 1.........before you purchase 1 thing for this bike......put it back together and get it running. If you need something to get it running that's different but anything else will have to wait just in case the internals are catastrophic. You may need to split the cases but that's fine but first try to get it running without it. When someone says "it doesn't look right in there" that's normal cause for concern but not a deal breaker. Seriously........not one cent until it idles (unless parts are needed to make it idle).

Step 2.........everything else. I've always found things are way more expensive when your looking for them than when your not. This thing can easily be $2000 plus in parts so take your time. I've seen things at swap meets so make the rounds........even CL.........although the era of naive sellers was over in 2015....still some don't know.

Good luck. Here's some reading on my 200X recomission if you get board.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/174412-86-Honda-200X-Recommission-ATC


Thank you!

[DDQ]

Right off the get-go I see that I am missing the clutch lifter piece that sits on the clutch arm inside the right cover.

Nothing jumps out at me with the timing chain and oil pump chain except the amount of slack in the oil pump chain and the amount of movement in the oil pump sprocket shaft. Is this normal?



https://youtu.be/DG4a1FpXOms





Also, looking at the manual, it does not look like the timing chain has any idler wheels between sprockets as it goes through the cylinder and head. What keeps the chain on track? Today I plan to pull the tensioner off to inspect it.

[DDQ]

Here is where I am at now....


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170317_154711_zpsos0wtgwj.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170317_154711_zpsos0wtgwj.jpg.html)


The motor would not turn over by hand so I dove in and found a rust spot on the cylinder wall. I took care of it and the motor is now free.

Here is what I am missing and I hope someone can tell me if these parts will be possible to find before I go any further:


Flywheel bolt

Thrust washer for kick start shaft that goes against the inside of the case

Clutch lifter piece that goes here...
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170317_104258_zps3gmazksx.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170317_104258_zps3gmazksx.jpg.html)

Camshaft bearing holder that goes under these two bolts and the two longer bolts that go in the other side through the head:


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170317_142241_zpsq9tl65fr.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170317_142241_zpsq9tl65fr.jpg.html)


Oring for the carb where is goes against the manifold





Obviously, I will need the carb oring, cam bearing holder and bolts and the flywheel bolt to see if the motor will run.

I really want to continue this project if these parts can be found.

[Shep1970]

Wow you've been busy... I looked on your bench and video, make sure you have the
Oil plate, i didnt see one there. If you look closely in my pic you can see where the pump shaft rubs but not enough to really scratch it.
I guess it just keeps it from wandering out to far.240821

Shep

[DDQ]

Thanks shep, I do have that plate. I also found an oring that will fit the carb.

So, before I can go any further I need the cam bearing retainer, long cam bearing retainer bolts, flywheel bolt and clutch lifter piece. I will cut my own gaskets for the covers. If anyone knows someone that might have these parts please let me know.

[Shep1970]

Do yourself a favor....... Please remember to turn your decomp lever while assembling the clutch cover. I did this about 4yrs ago, i guess i kept the pieces as a reminder. It didn't take much pressure either.
240824
Hopefully it saves yours from the same fate.....

[DDQ]

Will do, thanks!

[knappyfeet]

I will cut my own gaskets for the covers.

Your moving along nicely

Any luck with eBay with those items?

I might be tempted to use hondabond, yamabond, 3bond, etc just as temporary gaskets since you might be in and out of it. It cleans up nice.

[DDQ]

No luck on ebay for any of the parts I need. I have also posted in every 3 wheeler facebook group I am a member of. It sucks being stuck like this.

[Bren_downe]

http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=12211-HB3-000&isNewKw=1&isRefine=true&mfs=GOCLK&acimp=0&_trksid=p2056088.m2428.l1313.TR0.TRC0.X12211-hb3-000&sqp=12211-hb3-000

Is this the part your looking for?

[DDQ]

That is one of the parts. I am a little skeptical because it is aftermarket but I guess there is not much chance I will find an oem.

[Bren_downe]

I hear Ya. Are you searching part numbers too? Partzilla automatically cross reference part numbers with other models. That's another good way to search. If the bolts your looking for cross over with a VFR head. And you search that as well.
It takes some time but occasionally you get lucky.

[DDQ]

I hear Ya. Are you searching part numbers too? Partzilla automatically cross reference part numbers with other models. That's another good way to search. If the bolts your looking for cross over with a VFR head. And you search that as well.
It takes some time but occasionally you get lucky.

Yes, I am searching with part numbers and have tried partzilla. A couple of the parts I need are on ebay but more expensive than I had hoped for. I guess this is what I get for buying a 86 project without researching part availability ahead of time.

[Dirtcrasher]

You'll be very HAPPY with what it ends up as.

The gearshift issue is always the "gearshift plate" or 3rd gear in 87 was made too thin.

Otherwise, you now have a motor with a cam on ball bearings instead of an aluminum journal.....

[DDQ]

The earlier model 200x's had cam shafts that were not on bearings?


UPDATE.... Through much messaging on ebay last night I located and purchased a flywheel bolt and washer (which I had to buy a flywheel with) and the cam bearing retainer.


I am still in need of these items before I can mount the motor and attempt to start.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170318_121512_zpsoinmi2kj.png (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170318_121512_zpsoinmi2kj.png.html)

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170318_103829_zpsbxm2fjzx.png (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170318_103829_zpsbxm2fjzx.png.html)


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170317_172925_zpsdy0wgt6s.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170317_172925_zpsdy0wgt6s.jpg.html)

[Dirtcrasher]

Why are you pointing at that bolt??

The 86/87 200X has an ARROW next to every bolt that is an oil gallery on that head, crack them loose and test for oil pressure. You don't have to check OP on these unless they've been apart and by using a 5.16ths wrench to tear it down, :lol:

Just get that right cover off, clean the lower oil screen and the "oil filter rotor". The 3 screws need an impact screwdriver to remove most. But, get that screwdriver and you will that use it OFTEN... And they cost about 10$

Then switch to S.S. flat head allen screws, M6 x 1.0 I believe. Be sure the oil pump chain has that 2nd cover which acts like a "guide".

Remember, the crank shaft is LH threads!! I've bought a few that were stripped out right outta the box!!

[DDQ]

Getting ready to clean and line the tank


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170318_184623_zpsvkaatpoy.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170318_184623_zpsvkaatpoy.jpg.html)

[DDQ]

After removing the tank I see I am missing the coil. I found this one in a box of parts. Does this happen to be the correct one?


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170318_201331_zpstpuwix4q.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170318_201331_zpstpuwix4q.jpg.html)

[Shep1970]

Looks about right.. The same one i'm sure was used on many honda bikes
240878 240879

Shep
Also as dc said open up that oil strainer it'll give u an idea of how frequent oil changes and or miles on motor if its never been cleaned before ive seen real clean one's too nasty full ones. Screws come out normal but large crank nut is reverse thread 240880

[DDQ]

Will do, thanks.


The tank was in worse shape than I thought. I just got done welding the bigger holes. I hope the liner will seal the rest.


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170319_111136_zpsegp78sye.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170319_111136_zpsegp78sye.jpg.html)

[Trackburger]

I've had 2 86 200X's in the past... one was from a collection and was so nice I didn't ride it much... the other was picked up cheap as it was missing a shift fork, and the engine was half torn apart as well. I found that that specific shift for was a rare as unicorn tears.... I had to buy another bottom end off eBay just to get that one piece!!! Lesson here is the parts are not getting any easier to find and most likely just get more expensive with time. If you plan on keeping the bike it wont hurt to buy extra parts when you see a good deal. you just might need them one day down the line (like the extra flywheel you had to buy to get the other parts. Worse case scenario you can keep what you need and then resell the extra stuff you don't think you want to keep to recoup some costs and help someone else get a part they need. I wish you the best of luck on this project, as mentioned before take your time, have fun and don't get frustrated. If it starts to seem over whelming stop and walk away for a while.

I sold both of mine and wish I had them both back. Hang onto it man.... nothing like a square frame 200x!!!!!!!!!!!

[DDQ]

Thanks for the encouragement. I am also finishing up an 85 atc70 build which I plan to sell to fund the rest of this 200x refurbishment IF i can get my hands on these last two parts and get it to start.

[DDQ]

Parts have started showing up!


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170323_164836_zps4cqtff6f.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170323_164836_zps4cqtff6f.jpg.html)

[DDQ]

More parts! As soon as the clutch lifter piece arrives I can slap on the covers and bolt up the engine. Although, it would not hurt anything to instal the clutch cover without the lifter just to see if it will start, right?


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170327_154757_zpsxkx13r7w.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170327_154757_zpsxkx13r7w.jpg.html)

[Shep1970]

Um, i suppose if the large center nut and four clutch bolts are tight u could try to start it. I would remove the bearing
That the pin rides against, you dont want that bearing coming out at engine speed. Its just kinda sitting there in a cavity
Just pop it out. 241329

Shep

[DDQ]

OK, thanks for the info. I think I will go ahead and put the motor together and in the frame and wait on the clutch lifter.

[DDQ]

I am putting the top end back together today. I discovered there was no o-ring on the left here. I must have lost it during disassembly and I can not find it anywhere. The o-ring pictured is one I took out of my SAE o-ring variety pack. Will it work or do I need to try to find one closer matching the o-ring on the right?


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170328_190258_zpsbu8enrdi.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170328_190258_zpsbu8enrdi.jpg.html)

[Shep1970]

I dont think i'd want to mess around with the wrong o-ring there, does it rise above the surface at all? Auto parts store
Will/should have a thicker one or maybe plumbing dept at lowes? If u want to wait a couple more days i'll send u a
Postcard with one taped to it. Those holes lube the rockers/cam 241406

Shep

[DDQ]

Thank you for the offer. Tomorrow after work I will go to a hardware store and see if I can find a metric one closer to the o-ring on the right. If I can't then I will take you up on that! Does the o-ring on the right look correct? It does not look like it takes up much space in the groove.

[Shep1970]

Here's a pic to compare yours if it helps 241407

Shep

[DDQ]

Thank you, that does help. It looks like my o-ring on the right has shrank compared to the ones in your pic. If I can not find something very close at the hardware store I will shoot you a PM!

[Husky250]

Very interesting thread. I bought an '86 a few years back and it took me 4 years and thousands of dollars to get running. The rod was bent. I had to get a new one that was "close" and have the whole crank and rod machined by Crank Works out in Arizona (after I got the part form Australia)(yes it was quicker than waiting for the next production run of the part which was about 8 months down the road). The carrier and axle were trashed so we fabbed up a new swinger out of a 300ex. Once all was said and done (yet still not finished) I had WAY too much money invested but I figure I saved another one from the scrap yard. Bout 2 months ago I hit a jump and watched my kick started sail off into the woods so that's the current project. Even with all the money and time invested (and headaches) it never fails to paste a grin on my face. You are doing great, thanks for the updates.241490 Not to hijack your thread but here's what I did with my seat since I am long of leg and bad of knee.

[Dirtcrasher]

Get the right o rings from Honda.

Otherwise it will be like a ruptured artery and oil won't get there.

Gotta remember too that OEM can withstand heat and oil. Can a hardware stores do that? IDK....

[ironchop]

DDQ, did you happen to check the parts list for that bike? I ask because sometimes it will give you the bolt/nut/washer/orings/etc size and then you can go from there.

I keep a big box of assorted Metric orings I bought from somewhere years ago (HB, I think) and I frequently pull from that box when I need to replace one the last ten years.

Holler at me if you can't find the size and I might have it. No charge to you.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

Thank you for the offer. It did list the o-ring dimensions but I could not find that size locally. Honda still offers the o-ring so I ordered two last week. Everything I need to try to start the motor should be here early next week so hopefully I will be kicking it over by mid week.

[DDQ]

I don't want to get too off topic, but while I am waiting for parts....


I got this motor along with the 86 200x motor when I bought the bike. It has a damaged case from chain whack but looks like it could be useable with a new flywheel cover. Does anyone know what the motor came out of? The guy who sold it to me thought it was an xr200 motor but it is forward kick start.


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170401_145439_zpsb1lrsf62.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170401_145439_zpsb1lrsf62.jpg.html)


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170401_142526_zps94kxrlqh.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170401_142526_zps94kxrlqh.jpg.html)

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170401_142532_zpsdhvdfexr.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170401_142532_zpsdhvdfexr.jpg.html)

[ironchop]

1st Gen 200X

To be sure, run the first few on the motor Vin and compare it to that chart Monroe Mike put up in the other thread

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

Thanks, using that list it looks like an 83.

[knappyfeet]

I ask because sometimes it will give you the bolt/nut/washer/orings/etc size and then you can go from there

Yea I do that as well and it's very helpful when I purchase things through Ebay.

DDQ....... what's the plan for the X motor? Gonna hop-it-up?

[DDQ]

The plan for the 83 motor is to hold on to it until I find out if the 86 motor will run. I know the 83 motor would not just bolt in to the 86 frame but I am a pretty good fabricator and I think I could get it to work.

If the 86 motor starts then I will likely sell the 83 motor. I do not see enough 200x rollers around here to make it worth holding on to.

[DDQ]

I spent all night working on this bike. As I was putting it in the frame I noticed some rust through the intake manifold. I removed the manifold and found this:

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170406_185706_zpsvf2fuggm.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170406_185706_zpsvf2fuggm.jpg.html)



The valve opened and close fine. I put tge motor at TDC, turned it upside down and sprayed brake cleaner in the valve. Most of the rust came out so I continued with the installation.
Late last night I ran into a huge blow to my confidence. I got the motor sealed up, put it in the bike, had good spark and then kicked it over. It felt weak on compression so I went to town and bought a compression tester. Here is what I got:


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170408_101823_zps28h0mbqu.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170408_101823_zps28h0mbqu.jpg.html)


I put a tablespoon of oil in the spark plug hole, tested it again and got 85 psi.

I feel I should also mention that I reused the head gasket when I put the head back on. I sprayed soapy water around the gasket area and kicked the motor over but did not see any air bubbles.

So, this is where I am now:

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170408_120747_zpsuqqhzmah.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170408_120747_zpsuqqhzmah.jpg.html)


I do not have a valve spring compressor and am not sure where to go from here. Do I need a new piston and bore? Can I get away with just buying rings? What about the valves? I still do not know for sure that everything in the bottom end is good so I am getting real nervous about spending a bunch of money on the top end.

[knappyfeet]

It doesn't take much valve leaking to greatly reduce compression. On my 86 the exhaust valve was bent a little and I got no compression numbers.

I would yank that head back off and purchase 2 new valves and lap them well......if the seats are good. With all the rust you will probably need new valve seals anyway. And if your in there it may be a good move to do the rings as well.

As far as a ring compressor you really don't need one. I made this contraption many years ago.......an old spark plug socket and a c-clamp. I have rebuilt 20 motorcycle engines and 3 car engines with it and it worked fine. I will probably use it till I die.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/51f2d64d43d05b8363ce3a632ec921a0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/59d772f6d8f524d6fb6d35c0a57573dd.jpg

Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk

[DDQ]

Is there any secret to getting the cylinder off so that I can inspect the rings? I have tapped all around it with a rubber mallet and it has not budged. I am scared I will break a fin off.

[knappyfeet]

Is there any secret to getting the cylinder off so that I can inspect the rings? I have tapped all around it with a rubber mallet and it has not budged. I am scared I will break a fin off.

Sometimes there's no other way than to get ugly with it.

I use plastic scrapers as an alternative to anything metal when I can. Not the plastic razors but the scrapers. They work for me around 80% of the time

[DDQ]

I finally got the cylinder off and found the top two piston rings are stuck in the grooves. I bet it is due to rust since I was told this bike sat for over 20 years.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170408_134824_zpsy9js38hf.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170408_134824_zpsy9js38hf.jpg.html)

[DDQ]

I got the rings out...


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170408_175036_zps8jywdwfc.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170408_175036_zps8jywdwfc.jpg.html)


My hope is that I can just clean the grooves, put new rings in and do another compression check.

[Dirtcrasher]

At the very least, you need to pull the jug, hone it and put in new piston and rings.

It obviously wasn't being taking care of. I would be splitting the case myself for piece of mind.

They sell a nice kit for about 30$ on EBAY for valve spring compressors. Lots of adapters and such....

[DDQ]

I really do not want to split these cases. I think the bottom end is good. Everything I can see is clean, it shifts, and the oil screen was perfectly clean and it was sealed in with what looked like the original gasket.

If I have to get this cylinder honed I might as well get it bored for the next size up piston. My local machine shop takes 3 weeks to do any work so I was really hoping to avoid having to get machine work done.

[Dirtcrasher]

I really do not want to split these cases. I think the bottom end is good. Everything I can see is clean, it shifts, and the oil screen was perfectly clean and it was sealed in with what looked like the original gasket.

If I have to get this cylinder honed I might as well get it bored for the next size up piston. My local machine shop takes 3 weeks to do any work so I was really hoping to avoid having to get machine work done.

So, you'd rather have a jogging girl now than a smokin hot pole dancer an a few weeks!!??

You may be able to flush the bottom end out, with diesel; And have some piece of mind...

[DDQ]

So, you'd rather have a jogging girl now than a smokin hot pole dancer an a few weeks!!??

You may be able to flush the bottom end out, with diesel; And have some piece of mind...

I think everybody here knows in the long run the pole dancer gives a man more trouble!


I called Shindy who told me their piston rings fit OEM cylinders. I ordered a set of gaskets, piston rings, a hone tool, and valve seals. Shep is being nice enough to send me an intake valve so that I can swap out this rusty one while I am in there. If I cant rent valve spring compressors at my local auto part store I will try to make one out of a socket as suggested earlier.

[Dirtcrasher]

If I felt like going to the post office, I'd give you my valve remover set.

But, Shep stops in the help and hang so he may end up with it.

I actually FORGOT I had the set and ordered another. Like 30$; How can you beat that lack of aggravation....!!

[Shep1970]

Yup steve, i bought one of those compressor kits last year i think it was $23 i'm sure from china, lead paint and all.
My Best investment yet. Those little split collars though are easy to loose!!! I find myself (borrowing) the wifes nice tweezer set to take them out or in. Ddq (david) you just dont want to compress them too much, just enough to get those holders out. You'll see!!

Shep

[DDQ]

After new rings, a new valve, seals, and gaskets, she runs!



https://youtu.be/CMM74R13L7w


I can not express enough how thankful I am to shep and dirtcrasher for helping me get here. I am not out of the woods, as I have not ridden ot yet, but this is a huge improvement and boost of confidence. There is a stream of oil in the video leaking from the front sprocket seal. I have that seal and will replace the bad one tomorrow. Now I need to order a front sprocket and I will be ready to test her out!



http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170421_192445_zpsk3ewv7ez.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170421_192445_zpsk3ewv7ez.jpg.html)

[Dirtcrasher]

Sounds good. Adjust those valves when they're cold.

Easiest valve lash to change on anything I've ever seen!!

[DDQ]

For the last two weeks I had been struggling with the rear end. I could not install a chain because I could not get the carrier to spin. I finally got the axle lock nuts loose with a chisel and hammer and then dealt with the nightmare of removing the brake stay that was seized to the carrier.


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/nissan11/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170519_140848_zpsjq8yqc2w.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/nissan11/media/Mobile%20uploads%203/20170519_140848_zpsjq8yqc2w.jpg.html)


I got it back together and took it for a test ride and it rides great!!

[yaegerb]

I saw your videos, holy jeebus.

[Dirtcrasher]

I thread the bolts in the opposite way and put a penny in the gap to spread swingarms....

[DDQ]

The swingarm was not the issue, it was the brake stay.


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