Engine Seize - Time to Rebuild the Tri-Z

[brandonlowe2]

Well, I knew at some point the engine would blow and I would be rebuilding. When I bought it, I decided instead of putting a lot of money in the engine to make it "last longer" that I would have fun and run it until it dies... which happened this weekend. We are at the last couple miles of our 50 mile ride that morning.... I made it 49 1/2 miles.... If you want, you can watch it happen here... https://youtu.be/0_Sm9WzoN5w

Now that its done, its time to rebuild. I will start by saying I realize I will have way more money in this trike than it will ever be worth, but, I am doing because I want to do it not because I want to sell it. Having said that, here is my list (as it stands today anyway) of some of the things I want to do to it. If any has any suggestions on what to do, what not to do, or what to buy versus rebuild, please chime in.

1. Engine - It will be going to Brenden Yeager for a complete rebuild top to bottom and powder coating. He will be putting a Big Bore 350 top end on from Harry Klemm. Brenden mentioned a guy that makes custom pipes... depending on price I might get a totally custom pipe and silencer built for it.

2. Carburetor - I have plenty of time to change my mind, but as it stands right now I plan to use Keihin 38mm air striker

3. Power Reeds - V Force Reed kit with Boyesen reeds

4. Air Filter - Current Stock Airbox with current (and brand new) K&N Filter

5. Radiator - GPI Racing Aluminum Radiator and all new hoses

6. Billet Water Propeller

7. Thermostat - I want to see about finding a newer than 30 year old thermostat that will work.

8. Adding Gauges - I want to figure out a way to add a Temperature gauge or 2 so I can keep a close eye on the engine temp and coolant temp. I never want to seize up again due to overheating. Would also like to add a tachometer if possible. Speedometer would be cool too.... but, the temperature gauge is a must

9. Swingarm - I am looking for a +4 swingarm. Also looking for either aftermarket axles (preferred) or wheel spacers that would add 3~4 inches of backend width. I contacted RODZ Swinger's Customs to see if they make one.

10. Tires - I am going to lose the 22" scorpions and do to 20" holeshots. Not sure about the front yet.

11. Sprockets and Chain - Definitely going to replace, but, I have NO clue what I am going to do on those yet.

12. Brakes. I want to either rebuild the master cylinders or use something from a newer-than-30-year-old machine that would work.

13. Wiring - I will take this opportunity to completely rewire the trike. Also, hoping to add a "blinking" brake light.

14. Cosmetics - Jason Tetz is going to make a set of Carbon Fiber fenders. I am talking with a couple of custom seat makers to make a unique seat for me. I will be getting the Wicked Metal Designs foot pegs and having a custom fab shop make a set of nerf bars to my liking. I will be using the Mika Metals hybrid handlebars with the holeshot cell phone holding crossbar pad. Will be powdercoating the frame candy apple red. Wheels will be powdercoated gold as well as the swing-arm.

15. Will be replacing all bolts and bearings

16. Shock - Looking at having a "franken-shock" built for it by zmpolaristech

17. Front Forks - Should I replace them? Rebuild Them? I know very little about them.


Right now I am in the planning / dreaming stage. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. My goal is that when it is done it will be a "new" trike. Even things that are "good enough" for now, I would rather go ahead and rebuild or replace so that when it is done, I will know that from "said date" all was new and won't have to wonder when the next thing is going to break because it is still 30 years old.

[6spdls1z28]

Cant wait to see the build.

[YTZ drew]

Even though you sort of knew it would happen eventually, it still sucks when an engine finally takes a dump. I'm sure you'll get it up and running again. Good luck with your build!

[brandonlowe2]

Just found out about Durablue axles.... I think that is what I am going to try to get for the rear. They have a 2+2, which I assume is 2 on both sides for a total of 4 inches wider than stock

[NeverLift]

Take a look at these. I've used them, they are nice and cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-G-Force-Adjustable-Axle-Yamaha-YFZ350-Banshee-350-1987-2006-Warranty-/391625218621?hash=item5b2eae9a3d:g:kiMAAOSwajVUPZO Y&vxp=mtr

As long as your dreaming. New triple clamps with Inverted forks are fantastic. I have a set of clamps from Jason Halls and highly recommend them. I got 2 sets of forks, 1 full length for trails and MX then a set I lowered 6" for TT/Ice Racing racing. I can swap them out in under 1/2 hour.

Here is a picture of the different setup's.
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[brandonlowe2]

What part is adjustable? The overall length?

[ironchop]

#17.......yeah if you're having the rear shock rebuilt, I would definitely have the forks rebuilt too.

It will be nice to see a good TriZ build in here so I'm anxious for updates.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[NeverLift]

What part is adjustable? The overall length?

The splines for the hubs are extra long and come with spacers. So you can put the spacers on either side of the hub for your desired length.

[brandonlowe2]

Ok.... if they are good and strong that would be significantly cheaper than the Durablue which are $550.00!!

[barnett468]

Why do you want a 4" longer swing arm as opposed to a 2" longer one . Longer is NOT always better and countless people put am arm on that is longer than they need simply because others did it . A 2" longer arm will make a BIG difference in how the bike turns, and the longer the arm, the less rear wheel traction it will have and the more it will try to "push" the front end in turns etc.

If the rear suspension is set up properly and a longer arm is used, it will cause the forks to be softer so you will likely need stiffer springs at the very least . Different weight oils will affect how firm or soft the forks are also, so you will need to experiment a little with the settings to get it dialed in.


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

[brandonlowe2]

barnett468.... i only assumed (and you know what assuming does!) that with the top end upgrade that I would want a little more rear end length to help keep the front on the ground going into 1st and 2nd. 2" in my mind just doesn't seem like a lot, but, if you say it is I need to look into that as an option. I love the way the bike handles right now and I don't want to change that drastically... I just want to accommodate for the added power

[Dirtcrasher]

The type of riding or racing you intend to do changes the responses to all of your questions...

[NeverLift]

I run a +3 from Metal Tech and it's great. I can still wheelie at will, yet it doesn't shoot skywards out of corers anymore. It seems to handle all riding types well, Trails, TT, MX and dunes. Works Quadcross banshee rear shock.

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[christph]

I see you are thinking about getting GPI radiators--I am too. Even though I have a hi flow impeller, a Sprock cool head, and use Engine Ice on my Z, I still have an occasional problem with heat fade. I bought an aftermarket radiator for my 1st generation Tecate and it cools much better than stock, but several of the aluminum tabs broke after one ride. I got them re-welded and re-enforced so they are fine now, but I'm worried about the same problem with the Z radiators. I think all the oversized radiators on ebay are made by the same company in China. Does anyone have experience with these radiators they can report back?

[brandonlowe2]

I run a +3 from Metal Tech and it's great. I can still wheelie at will, yet it doesn't shoot skywards out of corers anymore. It seems to handle all riding types well, Trails, TT, MX and dunes. Works Quadcross banshee rear shock.

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From the picture, it looks like you have quite a few mods on yours... can you post more pics and list what mods you have?

[brandonlowe2]

I see you are thinking about getting GPI radiators--I am too. Even though I have a hi flow impeller, a Sprock cool head, and use Engine Ice on my Z, I still have an occasional problem with heat fade. I bought an aftermarket radiator for my 1st generation Tecate and it cools much better than stock, but several of the aluminum tabs broke after one ride. I got them re-welded and re-enforced so they are fine now, but I'm worried about the same problem with the Z radiators. I think all the oversized radiators on ebay are made by the same company in China. Does anyone have experience with these radiators they can report back?

Yea I have read some bad things about the chinese radiators, but, at the same time its the only game in town for a bigger capacity and aluminum radiator. Which Hi Flow impeller did you go with? and do you have a link for the Sprock cool head you refer to? I want to do everything I can to keep from overheating again. I was told about http://www.trailtech.net/ today... these look like really cool devices and I am planning on getting one.

[brandonlowe2]

I don't know how I missed it before but I just saw your pictures of your different fork set ups.... I never even thought about having more than one setup... they look awesome


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[christph]

I get a lot of my Sprock parts from Greg at Off Road Innovations. Sprock is no longer making this stuff so you better act quickly--although Greg has talked about making these parts himself. I have all the parts below and my Z is a beast. The last part listed below--the V-Force reeds--is not from Greg. I snagged the last one from him a few years ago.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sprock-Racing-Yamaha-Tri-Z-Billet-Cylinder-Head-TRIZ-250-Performance-Cool-Head-/332064294969?hash=item4d50930839:g:110AAOSwv~xXESk-&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1987-Yamaha-YZ250-Billet-Water-Pump-Kit-Waterpump-Impeller-Shaft-w-ARS-Seal-/232133574481?hash=item360c3d3f51:g:r4IAAOSwiYFXI-j2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Yamaha-Tri-Z-Billet-Intake-Kit-Rubber-TRIZ-YTZ250-Joint-Carburetor-w-Gasket-/232099806939?hash=item360a39fedb:g:Po0AAOSwZJlXM12 4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Tri-Z-Sprock-Racing-Billet-Intake-and-V-Force-3-Reeds-/162323857292?hash=item25cb417f8c:g:cIwAAOSwcLxYLKA 4&vxp=mtr

[brandonlowe2]

I get a lot of my Sprock parts from Greg at Off Road Innovations. Sprock is no longer making this stuff so you better act quickly--although Greg has talked about making these parts himself. I have all the parts below and my Z is a beast. The last part listed below--the V-Force reeds--is not from Greg. I snagged the last one from him a few years ago.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sprock-Racing-Yamaha-Tri-Z-Billet-Cylinder-Head-TRIZ-250-Performance-Cool-Head-/332064294969?hash=item4d50930839:g:110AAOSwv~xXESk-&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1987-Yamaha-YZ250-Billet-Water-Pump-Kit-Waterpump-Impeller-Shaft-w-ARS-Seal-/232133574481?hash=item360c3d3f51:g:r4IAAOSwiYFXI-j2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Yamaha-Tri-Z-Billet-Intake-Kit-Rubber-TRIZ-YTZ250-Joint-Carburetor-w-Gasket-/232099806939?hash=item360a39fedb:g:Po0AAOSwZJlXM12 4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Tri-Z-Sprock-Racing-Billet-Intake-and-V-Force-3-Reeds-/162323857292?hash=item25cb417f8c:g:cIwAAOSwcLxYLKA 4&vxp=mtr

This is going to cost some serious $$$ lol..... it will be fun though. What size carb are you running?

[NeverLift]

From the picture, it looks like you have quite a few mods on yours... can you post more pics and list what mods you have?

This is my build thread.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/161772-Tri-z-PowerValve/page3

[6spdls1z28]

Im doing my build now too mines all stripped down. Doing my forks tonight.

[barnett468]

barnett468.... i only assumed (and you know what assuming does!) that with the top end upgrade that I would want a little more rear end length to help keep the front on the ground going into 1st and 2nd. 2" in my mind just doesn't seem like a lot, but, if you say it is I need to look into that as an option. I love the way the bike handles right now and I don't want to change that drastically... I just want to accommodate for the added power

The first priority is always handling . The traction issues can be addressed with suspension and tires, and since you like the way it currently handles, I would strongly recommend against going any longer than an additional 2" on the swingarm even though you are also extending the axle, and even 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" longer might be enough for your particular app . I guarantee you that 2" will make a day and night difference in how it handles . Even lengthening it by only 1" is enough to make a noticeable, but not drastic change in handling.


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

[barnett468]

12. Brakes. I want to either rebuild the master cylinders or use something from a newer-than-30-year-old machine that would work.

There isn't any big improvement on brakes on those in the last 30 years so there is very little to no point at all in trying to redesign the wheel unless you are extremely unhappy with them . If you wanted a little more grip you might get it with different pads than you have been using . If you want it to stop using a lot less force/effort on the pedal and/or lever, installing smaller masters or larger volume calipers will do that but that will increase the amount of travel the lever or pedal operates over so it will be a trade off.



PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

[christph]

This is going to cost some serious $$$ lol..... it will be fun though. What size carb are you running?

I'm running a 38 mm Keihin Air Striker with a reed spacer. The reed spacer improved the performance considerably. Some people dismiss them, but for this application it worked wonders. The intake manifold on the Z is small, so the spacer pulled the reeds away from the ports and added volume. I would definitely recommend giving one a try after you get the engine up and running. Finally, Greg prefers you call him direct rather than buy through ebay.

[tecat-z]

Brandonlowe2. I have a complete lower end that may interest you. It was a no expense spared
build for a project Z I built. I changed course and never used it. I will sell at a very reasonable
Cost ratio to what is invested.

[brandonlowe2]

Brandonlowe2. I have a complete lower end that may interest you. It was a no expense spared
build for a project Z I built. I changed course and never used it. I will sell at a very reasonable
Cost ratio to what is invested.

PM sent to ya!

[brandonlowe2]

There isn't any big improvement on brakes on those in the last 30 years so there is very little to no point at all in trying to redesign the wheel unless you are extremely unhappy with them . If you wanted a little more grip you might get it with different pads than you have been using . If you want it to stop using a lot less force/effort on the pedal and/or lever, installing smaller masters or larger volume calipers will do that but that will increase the amount of travel the lever or pedal operates over so it will be a trade off.



PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR


The main thing I wan to accomplish with brakes is to have a parking brake and also be able to install a "blinking" brake light that turns on when I pull the front and/or rear brake. We do alot of night riding in the mountains and it would be a big help to have this feature. Also, because of the mountains, the parking brake would really nice.

I know the brakes have nothing to do with replacing the calipers, but, I believe I will have to in order to get the parking brake set up

[brandonlowe2]

Ok, it looks like I am going to be able to get the bottom end from "Tecat-Z" It looks really nice and is exactly what I want because it is an '85, which means 6 speed transmission!

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Also, I have decided that I am going to deviate slightly from the original '85 1/2 color scheme. I know some people might not agree and probably would prefer to see me keep it OEM colors, but, I have thought about it and I want to make it "my own" So, unless I change my mind again, I am going to do the frame and nerf bars muscle car orange. The swingarm and skidplate will be white. The shock spring will be orange. The motor will stay black. The pipe will be chrome as well as the axle. The plastics will be Carbon Fiber. The seat will be mostly orange with some designs stitched in (by cosmic quads) possibly white and black stitched flames or something. Will put new Tri-Z decals on the carbon fiber plastics but will have the "Tri-" custom cut in white and the "Z" cut in orange. The rear wheel will be black with orange beadlocks and white hubs. The front wheel black with white hub. Also, I am working on customizing the front headlight shroud to accept two 12" LED light bars (stacked on top of each other) one which will be a spot and the other a flood (low and high beam) I am hoping that it turns out the way it is in my head.... then I just have to figure out how to make sure the stator can run the LED's and if not, figure out how to add a small battery.

[El Camexican]

It looks really nice and is exactly what I want because it is an '85, which means 6 speed transmission

You might want to confirm that. 1985's came with a 5 speed, but he could have put a 6 speed in it from a 1986.

[brandonlowe2]

Sorry I said that wrong... the bottom end is in fact an '86 not an '85

[brandonlowe2]

I "borrowed" a Tri-Z picture I found... if this is your Tri-Z, I hope you don't mind I used it! This is a TERRIBLE photoshop mash-up, but, it at least gives me an idea of what I am shooting for to make sure I like the colors.... and I think I do!

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