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View Full Version : Trx 300 in 250 Big Red Output shaft help



MatthewBuckrell
11-19-2016, 09:51 AM
Hey, I'm swapping a trx 300 motor into one of my 85 Big Red's. Right now I'm swapping the angle drives and I have a few questions.

Has anyone seen a case and angle drive where there is no oil feed hole to feed the angle drive? I'm swapping this motor into a big red so I'm trying to swap my output shaft into the 300 motor. The big red motor and angle drive both have a feed hole as you can see in the pics. But the 300 has both the case and angle drive capped off? I'm thinking it will fry my angle drive running it as is? Or is this normal for the 300 motor to have no feed out to the angle drive?

Then the 250 shaft is roughly a half inch longer. I've heard of some guys cutting the shaft shorter or adjusting the oil feed line to fit. Which would be better? Also there is a feed hole right at the end of the shaft where it sits in the bearing, should this hole be plugged or left alone?

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

big specht
11-19-2016, 10:12 AM
Sorry I'm no help but I would like to know too cause I want to do this someday too

conbon
11-23-2016, 01:10 PM
Pics would help, you referenced them but I believe you forgot to upload them.

Unfortunately I can't recall the specific area of the angle drive you are referring too, and I don't have the motor and angle drive sitting on my bench right now to compare to.

What I can tell you is when I did my 300 swap I opted to just drill the hole in the end of the 250 output shaft larger and heat/rebend the 300 oil feed line to fit around the longer output shaft as the only other 300 swap I had seen did it this way...man what a pain in the ass. When my cousin did the 300 swap a little while later he opted to cut down the output shaft and press the end cap out of the cut off piece and press it into the cut down output shaft then drill the hole out to the correct size, this allows you to run an unmodified oil line. The only down side is that output shaft is hardened steel and a trailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro to cut, he accomplished this by chocking the output shaft into a vise, spinning it with a drill with the trigger taped down, then cutting the output shaft with a grinder with a thin cut off wheel. Basically a giant crude lathe, kept the cut straight so the end was square still. Although I spent probably and hour+ with an acetylene torch heating, bending, and test fitting oil line before I got it right, you have about 1/4" to fit a 3/16" tube through with a spinning shaft on one side and a spinning gear on the other, you can't be off at all with it. Other perk of running a cut down out put shaft is you can still run a gear reduction if you ever want to, where the way I have mine set of as soon as you put a larger secondary gear on it will rub the output shaft, so i'm stuck.

-Connor

mollie8000
11-23-2016, 08:13 PM
bend the oil feed line and alls well.use the 300 wiring harness also

big specht
11-24-2016, 01:01 AM
Why 300 wiring harness ?

conbon
11-24-2016, 10:54 AM
Why 300 wiring harness ?

Because they're different machines. I forget which one is which, but one provides power to cdi to kill it and one grounds cdi to kill it, plugs are different between harnesses, etc. I did whole harness/cdi/ecm/ignition/etc swap, only complaint is now ecm is behind headlights because one 300's it up under front fender. My cousin did a fraken harness made from parts of both, his uses all stock mounting locations and I think a lot of 250 components, but pretty much only he knows how to fix it from here on out. Each way has its pros and cons

-Connor