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morgan
08-18-2016, 08:02 AM
Replacing rings on a 82 250r that had a mild seizure. Wall and piston looks fine and checked with a mic it in spec, my question is there a break in just like a new topend for just changing rings? Thanks

fabiodriven
08-18-2016, 08:07 AM
People's break-in procedures vary so much it's insane. I bet you could run that thing balls-out right out of the gate and it wouldn't flinch.

86125m
08-18-2016, 09:30 AM
just take it slow for the first couple of rides. make sure you have everything dialed in correctly. then once everything is how you want it start ripping up some dirt.

atc300r
08-18-2016, 10:00 AM
Rings should seat in fairly quickly.I use non synthetic oil for breakin about a gallon premix nonsynthetic for rering.Full tank for rebuild such as topend with new crank bearings and seals.I ride mine on break in.

arlaunch
08-18-2016, 10:39 AM
The rings will not break in correctly if the cylinder was not honed.

You did that right?

Are you planning on using the old head gasket?

yaegerb
08-18-2016, 11:11 AM
Replacing rings on a 82 250r that had a mild seizure. Wall and piston looks fine and checked with a mic it in spec, my question is there a break in just like a new topend for just changing rings? Thanks

I smell an oil debate coming up. Regardless, I have heard two schools of thought and the third school is the one I employ.

1. Fire it up and ride the balls off it (risky in my opinion, but guys swear by it)
2. Heat cycle motor 2-3 times (10 minutes of idle and a full cool down in between) then ride the balls off it (still risky, but not as much as number 1)
3. Heat cycle motor 3 times (10 minutes of idle and a full cool down in between).
Then ride the bike for:
a. 20 minutes varying the throttle between closed and 1/4 open, then allow to cool completely.
b. Another 20 minutes, varying the throttle between closed and 1/2 open, then allow to cool completely.
c. Another 20 minutes, varying the throttle between closed and 3/4 open, then allow to cool completely.
d. Another 20 minutes, varying the throttle between closed and WOT, then allow to cool completely.


And, as already stated, if you didn't get the cylinder honed to break the glaze from the previous rings you are wasting your time.

DohcBikes
08-18-2016, 11:19 AM
Heat cycle it once then ride it like you stole it. Keep a load on the engine. No missed shifts, no over revs, stay 1k below redline for the first few pulls. It takes almost no time to break rings in. Never ever use synthetic on a new engine. Or an old one, as far as i'm concerned.

Whooooaa wait a minute. Why'd the first one sieze? You just keep a bore mic around huh...

82 250r
08-18-2016, 01:37 PM
The rings will not break in correctly if the cylinder was not honed.

The rings will not break in correctly if the cylinder was not honed.
Also note that rings need cylinder pressure to seat which means ride it with a load at moderate-high RPMS AFTER it warms up.
DO Not "take it slow for a couple rides" because you run the risk of glazing the cylinder. That won't apply to you because you didn't hone it.

morgan
08-18-2016, 04:12 PM
Guys thanks for the opinions, the cylinder was bored by member John tice a few months ago who did a fine job, it was broken in using ct racing break in guide and ring gap was checked before assembling. The engine heat seized because the owner rode it wide open for a extended amount of time, and for anyone wondering the jetting was a little fat. The compression was 170lb and he was using 93 instead of a mixture of race gas. Again thanks for the help.

P.S. The art of assumption, has very little accuracy without prior knowledge. I learned that long ago.

DohcBikes
08-18-2016, 04:29 PM
P.S. The art of assumption, has very little accuracy without prior knowledge. I learned that long ago.Which is precisely why anyone offering advice should ask questions.

yaegerb
08-18-2016, 04:33 PM
Guys thanks for the opinions, the cylinder was bored by member John tice a few months ago who did a fine job, it was broken in using ct racing break in guide and ring gap was checked before assembling. The engine heat seized because the owner rode it wide open for a extended amount of time, and for anyone wondering the jetting was a little fat. The compression was 170lb and he was using 93 instead of a mixture of race gas. Again thanks for the help.

P.S. The art of assumption, has very little accuracy without prior knowledge. I learned that long ago.

hmm, well, two things.

1. Has it been honed since seized? If not, I would do so
2. If it seized, its still lean on main and/or needle. In short, I don't understand what you mean by it was jetted a little fat but it seized. If it was jetted fat, it wouldn't seize. I flogged my 85 250R for hours at a time at the LSOK dunes and never seized it (sand at full load is the best litmus test for engine reliability).

82 250r
08-18-2016, 04:53 PM
Replacing rings on a 82 250r ... Wall and piston looks fine... just changing rings? Thanks
What assumptions?

morgan
08-20-2016, 02:04 PM
Bike is back together and yes it was honed to get the cross hatch back. Will heat cycle it and post back. And yes the engine was pressure tested when reassembled.

John Tice
08-24-2016, 08:45 AM
The cylinder must be round & straight. A quick hone job with a break cylinder hone won’t do it. The honing should also be done with fine stones, around a 300 grit is good.
I tell my customers for a break in; easy going for 2 tankfulls of fuel.
JT

plevib
08-24-2016, 01:21 PM
I when I had the 2 smoke in my 84 r I rebuilt it a couple times (cuz I rock at 2 strokes haha). I personally used the ride it balls out method cuz it was the most fun haha..... doesn't matter either way when you have a crank leak I found. .....

Hurley250R
08-24-2016, 01:40 PM
The compression was 170lb and he was using 93 instead of a mixture of race gas. Again thanks for the help.

93 octane is more than enough for 170LBS of compression.