'85 200X Clutch Options

[Mackus84]

What brand clutch are you running on your X? Replacing mine this weekend or next, and just looking for some recommendations on brands. Im leaning towards the Barnett Dirt Digger, but have seen other kits that have the steel plates included for a little cheaper. Is a more expensive clutch worth it? Bc id like to replace all the discs, springs and plates. Although i havent opened it up to see what condition the steel plates are in yet.. Should i go w the barnett, and buy oem plates seperate if i can? Or are the cheaper complete kits ok? Motor is mild. Have a 10.25:1 Wiseco, Dg Exhaust, Moose filter, and Xr 200 carb and intake. Ive adjusted it alot of different ways, and have decided it just needs to br replaced. Its the only thing i didnt do when i built my motor a few months back. Thanks in advance233786

[YTZ drew]

The stock clutch or an equivalent replacement should be able to deal with the very slightly higher power you're producing. But an upgrade can certainly can't hurt. I have a stock clutch on my basically stock 200x, and a Barnett replacement in my IT425. They both work perfectly for me in their respective applications.

[yaegerb]

Don't cheap out on clutch plates. OEM or barnett. If you go barnett get the springs too. Same if you go OEM, get the springs. You will also have to see if the fingers on your basket need filing and make sure to soak you plates in the oil you are using for a couple hours prior to installation. Another trick is to fine grade sand blast the steel plates for better grab and longer life.

[AK47KID]

Following

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[Mackus84]

Don't cheap out on clutch plates. OEM or barnett. If you go barnett get the springs too. Same if you go OEM, get the springs. You will also have to see if the fingers on your basket need filing and make sure to soak you plates in the oil you are using for a couple hours prior to installation. Another trick is to fine grade sand blast the steel plates for better grab and longer life.

Alright good deal. Got into it this morning. Steel Plates look good still. Will sanding with a fine emory or sandpaper be the same as sandblasting? Thinking i can just lay a sheet on the table and rub the plates on it? And the basket does show a little wear toward the end of the fingers. Not bad at all, but can be cleaned up. How do i go about that? File? Thanks in advanve

[yaegerb]

how do you know they "look" good? You need to check their thickness with a micrometer. Same for the fibers. If they spec out within tolerance in your manual, then you don't need either. Yes, you can use sandpaper, I would use 1200. On the clutch basket, you will see wear from the steel and fiber tines. It will be grooves that match the tines. Post up a pic if you can of what the wear looks like. After that we will see if you need to file.

[Mackus84]

Ill Mic them when I get home. I ran out of time this morning. Had to work. And by they "look good" i meant like nothing looks burnt or discolored or anything. And nothing is warped. And yes, i saw the markings on the basket fingers. Up towards the top of the most of the fingers, there are some wear marks/grooves. Not real bad though. Looks Like from the outermost 2 discs.. Will post up some pics tonight after work

[yaegerb]

I guess I need to ask the question. What is the bike doing to make you think you need new plates?

[Mackus84]

I mainly feel it in higher gears. Like the end of 3rd, then 4th, and 5th. If i whack the throttle when cruising at a decent speed i have plenty of motor there, just feels like its slipping. Revvs higher and takes a second to really catch like it should. Ive tried a couple different weight/brands of oil, the most recent was Rotella triple i believe. Has done the same with any of them. And lots of clutch adjustment.. just feels like its slipping and not putting the power to the ground. Ill also add, that i had a broken bolt on the left case for the stator cover from the previous owner and had a decent oil leak from it. So i ordered a new case half from Mr twisted on ebay. Thats the main reason it was coming apart, so i figured i might as well do the clutch while im in it. Ill know for sure when i mic the plates later, but i think even if theyre still in spec i may just replace them anyway. Once thats done, everything in the motor will be new and wont have a reason to have to crack it back open unless something breaks

[yaegerb]

It may be that you only need a new clutch cable and springs.

[Mackus84]

Clutch cable is brand new. Not even 3 hrs of use on it. And its very possible that the springs need replaced. Ill have to look into all of it tonight when i get home

[Mackus84]

Ok soooo. Mic'd everything and snapped a few pics. Didnt see a service limit on the steel plates, it just said check for warpage, which they were in spec. The springs, limit is 34.7mm and all four were slightly over 35mm so still in spec. The friction plates, were pretty close, but still in spec, which is 2.6mm, they all measured between 2.71 and 2.76. The basket, was worse than what i thought i saw earlier. Hopefully it can be saved. Very grooved up along the edge of every finger... pics
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What decides when the basket is past the point of no return? Hopefully its not, but its in pretty rough shape

EDIT*** After looking on ebay, mine seems in much beeter shape than alot of the ones on there!! So its either file them down, or spend almost 200 bucks on a new one smh. ...

[yaegerb]

Oh yeah, you need to file those fingers. Use a fine file and pull it one direction (towards you). Just take off enough to get rid of the high spots and blend with the grooves. Patience and slowly working is key. My bet is your plates are getting stuck on the fingers.

[Mackus84]

Ok. Gonna knock it out tomorrow. Just got a few brand new files too so what better way to use em lol. What about the plates and springs? What do you think? Theyre still in spec, but kinda close to NOT being in spec. Leave em or just replace it all?

[yaegerb]

If you don't have warped steels and everything is in spec then I would leave it alone. Saves you money and it's not that hard to get into the clutch side if it's still not engaging properly. Don't forget to sand your steels. Depending on how much you ride you have a few years left on those components.

[Mackus84]

Awesome. Im gonna give it a try and see how it works out with this stuff. Still waiting on my gaskets to get here so cant put it back together just yet. Thanks a million for the help. Ill update the results in a few days

[yaegerb]

No worries. Looking forward to the report.

[Dbro1216]

I have a couple clutch parts of you need any let me know. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160805/0a200c880dc95a33b9a2ddc4d36a36b5.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160805/c16bd611d7c39e059e8fa6c4b4b6894b.jpg
Not real sure what is there bunch of steels,fibers, two baskets bunch of springs if interested let me know


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[Leevvii]

Didnt see a service limit on the steel plates
I wondered that, mine measure 1.5mm, .....normal?? what size is yours?
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/180694-84-200X-camshaft-and-clutch-sizing

[Mackus84]

No worries. Looking forward to the report.

Once again YaegerB, youre the man! Got my cases back together after getting the new left case and gaskets in. No more leaky stator cover. Filed down the grooves on the clutch basket, got it all together. Clutch grabs like a new bike! Easily pulls the front wheel up in 3rd gear with my 250 lb ass on it. Thanks for your help.