View Full Version : How do you check the neutral light wire?
Dawsman
07-19-2016, 08:05 PM
Like the title says, how would you check if it's working? 1985 atc 125m
YTZ drew
07-19-2016, 09:30 PM
There should be continuity to ground when in neutral only. Do you have a multi-meter? If so, a very low resistance reading in ohms, or an audible beep should indicate continuity, depending on how your meter works. If you have a test light, connect one end to battery+ and the other end to the green/red neutral wire, it should light up in neutral. Hope that helps, any more questions, you know where to find us all.
Dawsman
08-01-2016, 02:53 PM
Ok so whenever I stick the point pf the test light in the connection for the neutral light the light works, but when I take it out the neutral light doesn't!! What's goin on here!
YTZ drew
08-02-2016, 01:13 PM
Where are you testing, at the engine or at the light socket? Using a non-powered test light? Alligator clip grounded or on battery positive? Let me know, we can figure it out.
Dawsman
08-03-2016, 07:19 PM
I'm checking it behind the headlight and it's a non powered test light to the negative post
YTZ drew
08-05-2016, 12:45 PM
Sounds like you have power at the socket, so there's probably no ground. Clip the wire of the test light to batt+, and see if it lights when you touch the shell of the neutral light socket. The green/red wire us switched to ground at the engine.
Dawsman
08-05-2016, 08:26 PM
Didn't light up when I did that
YTZ drew
08-06-2016, 05:46 PM
Try the same check down at the neutral switch on the engine. I bet it still won't light. If it doesn't, then the switch in the engine no longer makes the ground connection. It's a common problem, the little copper tab on the end of the shift drum wears out. You could try pulling the neutral switch, and prying outward on the copper tab with a small pick. If that doesn't fix it, it would require you to split the cases and replace the copper tab. If it were me, I'd leave the neutral light broken rather than split the case.
Dirtcrasher
08-06-2016, 06:45 PM
The 250SX has reverse and neutral lights as well. I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me, but I believe they complete the circuit to ground.
So, at your dashboard (if it's wired this way), you should have power at that light but no ground. Touching the hot wire to ground with a test light completes the circuit. ANY ground.
n the SX, I believe (don't hold me to it!!) that there are 2 plunger type switches on the engine case. Some type of lever inside, when shifted, completes a circuit to ground. In that case it would only have 1 wire connected to it.
If I had to troubleshoot it, I'd test OHMS or resistance to a known ground when I'm in neutral or reverse. It should beep or give a small level of resistance. If it does not, I know the switch on the clutch side case would be at fault or the guts under the clutch side cover it to make it a closed circuit.
If indeed this is how yours is wired, the hot should be at the "Neutral Light" and a test light from there to ground would light up your test light. Or an alligator clip on 2 ends of a wire from the NOT HOT side of the lamp jumped to ground would light it up.
I think test lights have their place, but I prefer to be fluent with a multimeter.
Post up a wiring diagram and I'll tell you EXACTLY what to look at......
Dawsman
08-09-2016, 09:23 AM
Where is the connection on the engine??
Dawsman
08-10-2016, 01:23 PM
Decided to just run a wire from in the connection behind the headlight to a ground, neutral light is always on but at least electric start works! Thanks for the help!
YTZ drew
08-14-2016, 09:41 PM
Where is the connection on the engine??
Sorry, I was away for a week on vacation. The switch is behind the left engine case cover. I didn't realize you were troubleshooting it in order to get the electric starter to work, I just figured you were really hot to have your neutral light working again. Anyway, glad you're up and running again!
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