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View Full Version : 110 won't idle or go full throttle



hondaATCman
01-30-2004, 11:45 PM
Ok after about a million dollars put into it, I have yet another problem. Here's the story... One day I went out to start it, it would run for a while then shut off. I thought it was the carb so I took it apart and put it back together but still had the same problem. Well eventually I found out it was the kill switch wires grounding to the frame so now it would stay running but back with that came another problem. It won't idle at all, if I barely hit the throttle it will rev sky high then bog down and die. When it is wide open (even if I just snap it open) it will pop and crack. My first thought was an air leak. Nope. I even used silicone and tightened the bolts down as tight as they would go and it still did the same thing. I checked all the wires, readjusted the valves, checed for exhaust leak, took carb off again and let it soak in cleaner, played with the carb settings, checked for a sticking slide, checked for clogged vent tube, the fuel lines aren't clogged, petcock isn't clogged, and I played around with the ignition timing and absolutely nothing helped. What gets me is this thing was running PERFECT before the kill switch wires messed up and I'm kicking myself in the a** really hard for taking the carb off. I have just ran out of options and need help from you guys. If I get this fixed and something else goes wrong, it's outta here. I've had enough.

nitekrawler
01-31-2004, 12:31 AM
I would guess either the float or needle in carb is geting stuck, or needle is bent

bigred110
01-31-2004, 01:58 AM
I would guess either the float or needle in carb is geting stuck, or needle is bent

I would beat theirs something wrong with the needle to.
Check to see if your cable is hanging open to.

hondaATCman
01-31-2004, 02:16 AM
I would beat theirs something wrong with the needle to.
Check to see if your cable is hanging open to.

I was going to check the cable but decided to call it a night because it was like 7 degrees outside and it felt like I got a case of frostbite :D but I got to thinking and could see how the cable would affect the reving high and bogging out at an idle, but what about the high end popping and cracking? I don't think this is the problem, but I will check on it first thing tomorrow. Thanks for the help so far guys!! I appreciate it.

nitekrawler
01-31-2004, 03:08 AM
I thought these had timming :?: If I am right, thats it (making the popping sound). Its off.

03 ORANGE SHEE
01-31-2004, 10:23 AM
ive got an 83 110 if you need any parts for yours!

hondaATCman
01-31-2004, 12:23 PM
I thought these had timming :?: If I am right, thats it (making the popping sound). Its off.

They do... and I will definately check into that. That totally slipped my mind (brain fart) and the more I think about it, that sounds like the problem. I will have to work on it tomorrow or later today if it warms up. Right now its -5 degrees. Too cold for me!!

TimSr
01-31-2004, 12:37 PM
Along the same lines of timing, does this unit have points? Point gap affects timing tremendously, and does change over time.

Triker250
01-31-2004, 12:54 PM
I would check timming. I had a 84 110 and if the timming wasn't perfect it would do all kinds of weard stuff. Would'nt idle pop and crack only run on choke etc.

nitekrawler
01-31-2004, 01:09 PM
Ya had pepboys do my harmonic balancer over 2yrs ago. Come to find out when they shot the timing on my 454 suburban, they were off 8* retart. Had a guy fix it, WOW! The power I had missed out on. SAD!!!

timex69
01-31-2004, 10:04 PM
hey man
-5 that isnt too bad at all man..send some of that weather this way..it hit
-40C down here and i was in the garage tearing down my blaster..my hands started sticking the the bolts so i put gloves on...yup im a true canadian :D j/k

al

hondaATCman
01-31-2004, 10:53 PM
Along the same lines of timing, does this unit have points? Point gap affects timing tremendously, and does change over time.
No, its an 82 model...has a CDI.


I would check timming. I had a 84 110 and if the timming wasn't perfect it would do all kinds of weard stuff. Would'nt idle pop and crack only run on choke etc.
Ok, sweet!! That's the same problem mine is giving me, won't idle and pops and cracks but will run decent on full choke. I'll definately take a look at it when the weather breaks. Thanks!

Howdy
02-01-2004, 05:15 AM
One other thing to check is the tube ( #9 below ) and rubber elbow ( #6 ) that goes to the air box. I have found out the hard way if this tube is missing, damaged or not connected it WILL cause problems. The tube is inside the frame. It restricts the air flow thus causing more fuel to be pulled into the motor.
Just something else to check.
Thanks
Howdy


http://www.bright.net/~4howdy/ATC110AirCleanrerFicheStamped.jpg

hondaATCman
02-01-2004, 01:40 PM
Thanks for the reply Howdy, I know the chassis tube is connected to the air box, but on the rubber boot that connects the carb to the airbox the band that tightens it down to the airbox is missing (part #10 on diagram above) The first band (#2) is still there but the second one is missing. Could this be causing too much air to enter the carb? I hate that I haven't got a chance to go work on it and figure it out, but today I'm gonna buckle down, put on some heavy clothes and go at it. I have a nice amount of suggestions and hopefully one of them will solve it. If not, I'll be back!! ;) :D Thanks

hondaATCman
02-06-2004, 03:56 PM
Well, I finally got a chance to look at it and it was the timing, one tooth off. I had a feeling it still wouldn't run right even after I fixed that....and I was right. Now it will idle very very low no matter how the idle screw is adjusted and it will rev up but it takes about 3-4 seconds for it to max out. It also has no power at all, to get going I have to rev it up and let the clutch out just like I was doing a wheelie but now I have to do that just to go forward. If I don't, I can hold it wide open and it won't even move on a flat ground. I tore it back apart and found that the cam chain was very loose causing the crank to move about 1/2 inch both ways and the cam not to move at all, tighted the tensioner all the way but it was still loose. I was really pissed at this point so I went ahead and called it quits for a while but I realized when I adjusted the timing one notch, I might have knocked the cam chain off of the roller. I don't know when I'll get around to working on it again, to tell you the truth I'm tired of looking at it, but does this sound like the problem? I'll hope for the best but already know I'll get the worst! :evil:

Thanks :D

nitekrawler
02-06-2004, 04:42 PM
Did you clean out the carb? (jets and all)? Also check the jets and make sure they are right for your location. I had to adjust mine since I am 4000 ft above sea level. maybe someone did that too and never changed it make? Just a though.

hondaATCman
02-06-2004, 06:20 PM
Alright!! I finally got it!! :-D :-D What happened was when the cam chain was loose the first time I timed it, it was enough to throw the timing off another tooth as soon as I started it. So the chain actually tightened down but it jumped a tooth before I had a chance to tighten it. Now its in time, chain tight, carb set right and has more power than it ever had before!! :shock: Thank God for you all, I probably would have never finished this restoration if it wasn't for 3WW. Billy, Howdy... keep up the great work on the site. Again, many thanks to ALL the people who helped!! 8)

TrikeKid
02-06-2004, 10:55 PM
pics?

hondaATCman
02-07-2004, 09:35 AM
pics?
I'll get some as soon as a sand and re-paint my tank and put the decals on.