What Carb for atc110

[gumbellion]

I have 2 atc110s and both are in need of carbs/carb parts

To me it seems like at $30 for a carb i might as well buy some new ones and slap them on each machine. The rebuild kits seem to be about the same price as a carb so i figure why not get the entire carb

The one atc will run fine but no matter how much adjusting i do it will not idle
The other i can get to fire when bump started and it will run a bit but always dies

The 2 carbs on the bikes are different, one is a 85, the other im not sure of the year at this point


Unless someone has another suggestion on what to do before spending money, but i gave both the carbs a cleaning. Just with spray carb cleaner

[derrick81787]

I don't really have a suggestion about how to save your current carbs without spending money, but I wanted to say that this carb (http://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-1979-85-1984-85-ATC125M-1980-86/dp/B00AWBNQ0I?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00) worked great on my 1980 ATC 110. The only issue is that the tube on top for the throttle cable wasn't quite the right size, but you can just reuse the top cap of your existing carb. It screws right on. Then you can save your original carbs and basically have two spare sets of parts if you ever need them for anything.

The carb comes with a new needle and slide and jets, and I would recommend using those instead of reusing the old ones. The needle is a slightly different taper than the original, so the new needle works better with the new carb than the old needle does. You could probably get away with reusing the old one, but I don't see any reason to do so.

[gumbellion]

Oh yes i forgot to mention for the 1985 it will start first pull if i hold the throttle wide open, and will maintain a low idle if i hold the throttle open just a bit, but dies as soon as i let off the throttle

when riding/starting etc the choke does not seem to impact how the trike runs

[morgan]

Go to the parts store and get a can of carb soak, it's in a paint bucket, make sure to remove all rubber. Download a manual and make sure the float level is correct.

[morgan]

http://www.walmart.com/ip/17491945?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=202&adid=22222222228017563401&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=40838859392&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78652565912&veh=sem

Looks like this, whatever brand is fine. It's reuasble, just keep the lid on it.

[morgan]

http://www.walmart.com/ip/17491945?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=202&adid=22222222228017563401&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=40838859392&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78652565912&veh=sem

Looks like this, whatever brand is fine. It's reuasble, just keep the lid on it. The price is usually 25 or so at a parts store

[Mackus84]

You should disassemble and thoroughly clean the carbs again. The one that wont idle i suspect has a plugged or partially plugged pilot/slow jet. That is the one that handles the idle. Pull the carb, remove the bowl and you will be able to access it. The holes are really really tiny and it doesnt take much to obstruct the flow of fuel, or air for that matter. I soaked mine in pine-sol, yes original brand name pine-sol for about an hour completely disassembled. Then i rinsed with plain warm water, and immediately blew the whole thing out with compressed air. Then spray with carb cleaner. I used a bread tie, yes a BREAD TIE and burned off the paper and used the tiny piece of metal to get the crud out of the jet. Make sure you can see through all the tiny holes of the jet. When you see how tiny the holes are you will realize that they are not hard to get plugged!!!! The smallest piece of anything can get lodged in a jet or one of the passages. You want it clean enough to eat off of. The last time I took a 27 year old disgusting gunked up carb and with the pine sol, made it look like BRAND NEW. I used a small brush while it was soaking to remove the build up. I put it in with orings and all. I cant say if it will harm the rubber parts with an overnight soak but mine was absolutely fine after sitting for an hour. Oh and also install a small inline fuel filter on your gas hose to prevent crud from the tank getting to the carb in the future. Will cost ya about 5 bucks. Entire ordeal will cost ya less than 10 bucks. The original carbs are ALWAYS better if you can salvage them than the cheap ebay/amazon carbs. If you do decide to get a new carb let me know and ill buy the originals off of you. I have a 110 that the carb needs a slide, needle and spring

[gumbellion]

Thanks Mack

I looked a bunch online yesterday and see that there is a few small openings cast into the carb that i probably didnt clean out properly, since i wasnt looking for them

I will look into the Pine Sol, or else the carb dip cleaner stuff for tonight and let the carb soak. Then i will blast it with carb cleaner and dry with compressed air

I would just get new jets but would have to order them online and it will be a while before they shed up, so if i can get them running well for $20 i will be thrilled
If i fail to get them running better i will have 2 carbs for sale i will let you have first dibs on