View Full Version : Axle Hub Removal
El Camexican
05-21-2016, 09:37 PM
I picked up an assembled rear axle for my Tri-Z. Looks to be in decent shape. The axle nuts were backed off, which in hindsight may be a clue as to why it went on ebay in one piece.
So anyway, I couldn't remove the hubs with a few gentle hammer taps, so I stood it on end, heated it the hub with a propane torch and shot some Liquid Wrench on the top of the axle. After about 20 minutes the penetrant was seeping out the bottom side of the, so I put a flywheel puller on it and with just the slightest of force the hub came off as expected. There was rust, but nothing was pitted.
Then I repeated this operation on the other side. No go. The penetrant is passing through the splines and I have heated it and repeated the process half a dozen times. I even hit the puller with an impact gun and then pounded on the puller nut with a ball peen.
This has been going on for two days. I think I may have even bent the hub with the puller and it still won't budge. I'm at the point of not caring about the hub. With the puller tightened to the max I'm beating on the back side of it with a hammer and it has yet to budge.
Any ideas? Ever have one this bad? I'm out of acetylene, but when I refill I may heat the hub red. Any thoughts or suggestions?
250ES5984
05-21-2016, 10:50 PM
So it's not welded, and there's penetrant seeping out from behind it. I'm guessing that the splines got crossed up and then rusted in place. If there's enough room, I don't know how tri-z hubs are, you may be able to put a pipe wrench on it and try to twist it one way or the other.
Another option would be what you said about heat. I'd heat it till glowing, then get a bigger hammer.
That's the only thing I could think of.
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yaegerb
05-21-2016, 11:05 PM
I picked up an assembled rear axle for my Tri-Z. Looks to be in decent shape. The axle nuts were backed off, which in hindsight may be a clue as to why it went on ebay in one piece.
So anyway, I couldn't remove the hubs with a few gentle hammer taps, so I stood it on end, heated it the hub with a propane torch and shot some Liquid Wrench on the top of the axle. After about 20 minutes the penetrant was seeping out the bottom side of the, so I put a flywheel puller on it and with just the slightest of force the hub came off as expected. There was rust, but nothing was pitted.
Then I repeated this operation on the other side. No go. The penetrant is passing through the splines and I have heated it and repeated the process half a dozen times. I even hit the puller with an impact gun and then pounded on the puller nut with a ball peen.
This has been going on for two days. I think I may have even bent the hub with the puller and it still won't budge. I'm at the point of not caring about the hub. With the puller tightened to the max I'm beating on the back side of it with a hammer and it has yet to budge.
Any ideas? Ever have one this bad? I'm out of acetylene, but when I refill I may heat the hub red. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Yep, I've had a couple like that and then went and bought a 20ton press. No issues with those little buggers now.
It's out of the carrier, right?
El Camexican
05-22-2016, 01:11 AM
No, still in the carrier and no weld and nothing oozing out when heated. I doubt the splines could be crossed. The only signs of butchery on the whole thing is a grease fitting installed in the center of the carrier. I may end up cutting it off if the heat doesn't work.
atc007
05-22-2016, 09:13 AM
Brake side? I had one once way back just like this. You stand there thinking, this is literally NOT possible! I eventually got with heating it back to molten and a bfh,,, customer was determined it was going back on! I said no way, it is gone in the crap, no one will even ride on that poor thing I beat on for 3 hours.It was a Warrior,must be a Yammie thing :) Press is the only answer.
If you have an air hammer use the pointed chisel and work from the back side obviously and keep rotating. I have removed honda brake hubs like this that wouldn't budge in a press.
RIDE-RED 250r
05-22-2016, 09:36 AM
Nico: My brother in law was playing with Tri-Z's for awhile before he got his JTS Yamaha 450 trike. If I recall, there is a Honda hub that will fit on worn Tri-Z axle splines, but it's a tight fit. It's kind of a popular thing for Tri-Z guys to do to open up wheel and axle spacer options and to tighten things up when axle splines get worn. I wonder if this is what is going on in your battle?? Easy enough to tell, Honda 4/110 stud pattern.
El Camexican
05-22-2016, 09:45 AM
Thanks guys. I don't have access to a press, but will look around if heat wont do it.
Bill, yes brake side. Did you destroy the axle, or just the hub? I may have a chisel fitting for my hammer drill I can try once its hot.
El Camexican
05-22-2016, 12:53 PM
I went at it with the heat again as well as the impact and hammer. It finally moved a few thousands of an inch and then started moving with the aid of the impact. I hit it so hard so many times that the tip where the cotter pin goes has flattened out about 2 mm, so I will half to chase the threads. The problem was corrosion, lots of it bunging up the splines and causing the hub to tighten as I was pulling on it. There is a reason grease and anti-seize were invented.
I should add, the hub is trash, the pulled bent the heck out of it.
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