Flat track

[fieldy]

I have a dura-blue +4 extended adjustable axle and new dura-blue 4/4 hubs. They have about 3/8ths inch bolts and non tapered nuts. I am looking at different 4/4 beadlock rims and ft tires. I think the old 4/4 pattern is outdated in general. I got to go 4/4 for ft at this time. Someday i might go to the Honda axle and pattern but thats gonna cost me. Go-kart axles look cool too, maybe later.
Would anyone have a suggestion on the brand/size or offset of the rim.........3+5, 8x8?
What about tires and tire size/compound to start out with for most tracks?
I am new to this and looking for anyone wanting to comment about flat tracking, suspension, front tires, any of it. Looks amazingly fun. My trikes are stock 250 for now. Well....tia.

[The_Steve_Man]

You can get adapters on ebay that go from 4/4 to 4/110.

Kart axles are easy to do and very versatile.

[nicker71]

Hoosier makes a 15" tire that will mount right up on a 8x8 wheel. It's rd20 compound.
Need to get it low and wide. Small tires will probably require a change in sprockets to get the gearing back up.
When I first started racing flat track I was just running 18" lawn mower tires in the rear. I rachet strapped the back end to make it sit lower and than slid the forks down to match.

[86T3]

http://www.bmikarts.com/8-x-8-Douglas-Polished-Aluminum-Wheel-4-on-4_p_1601.html

[The_Steve_Man]

American Racer makes a 16" tire that works nice on a trike. It is a medium hard compound.

[x-rider]

Hoosier makes a 15" tire that will mount right up on a 8x8 wheel. It's rd20 compound.
Need to get it low and wide. Small tires will probably require a change in sprockets to get the gearing back up.
When I first started racing flat track I was just running 18" lawn mower tires in the rear. I rachet strapped the back end to make it sit lower and than slid the forks down to match.
Hey, you wouldn't happen to be able to get a better shot at them nerf bars. I would like to build a set.

[fieldy]

The_steve_man........ i did see those adapters about a week ago, i would still be under 50" wide i guess. I have an old set of 8x8 douglas 3+5 with worn out fast trekkers. I will try to get a mock up measurment on width. Might go this route. I bet i do the kart axle someday, i just know it. I've seen your trike on 3ww before. It is so trick i cant really put words to it. Couldnt hardly see it in that truck bed picture. I wanted to ask about the tire height and overall width on your black 250r with it setup like that. I will check out the 16" tire.


Everyone......I have a 10" Chris white front wheel, no tire yet. I hear you want a round front tire, not flat. Is a twist throttle ok for flat track? I did like the thumb throttle though that i had on the four-stroke 200x, it was my first attempt many years ago at low and wide. Very fun.

Do you guys like wider handlebars, like dirt bikes have? It seems like that would help a little with leverage through turns. I guess my final question at this time would be ....are there many tracks that have turns left and right? To me turning left and right would be more familiar. The speed of same turn tracks may be more fun though, trying to get faster and faster.


Nicker71..... I will check out the 15" tire. Is there a ratio calculator to get a ballpark on the sprockets or just buy a bunch, lol. My stock rear shocks are due for a rebuild asap. I am going to talk to onformua1 about them. So you just had the stock shock compressed all the way with the strap and was there an adjustable dogbone on your 250R or did you make a shorter piece.

86T3.... i notice you and others are not steering me towards beadlocks. Any Tecate tire and sprocket advice?

My responses are kinda out of order a little typing on this phone. I will write these rim tire suggestions down and probably all the people responding to this thread, which i hope continues.Thanks everybody!

[86T3]

The fastest most sideways trike pilots I've seen are running non beadlock wheels, I have no concerns about them. Bead guards might be advisable if your conformable banging wheels. I'm not, but I got a deal on a set so I run them. I run high run tires, the same as the atv on demand test. I am going to hossiers this year on my 450, but I've ran high runs for 4 years. No problems, just trying something new

[The_Steve_Man]

Width with a kart axle can be anything you want. It is infinitely adjustable.

I run 12" kart tires and I have hubs to run Honda bolt pattern wheels. All of the shelf stuff.

I am running an 05 450r swingarm that is an inch shorter and I think is causing me problems hooking up too much so I need to find the right tire and width to make it work.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160507/6da297addbf044062e2424642b1308d1.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160507/dd48d06cf4ad9ce09b52ff54044d4bfc.jpg

[The_Steve_Man]

I run paddles with the kart axle too.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160507/c11753fc5141ef329f8ec17d4e98d69b.jpg

[nicker71]

Hey, you wouldn't happen to be able to get a better shot at them nerf bars. I would like to build a set.

These are first gen yfz 450 alba nerfs, modifications were needed to get them to mount correctly. It was
pretty simple though.

I'm thinking the flat front tires will be better for hard packed tracks.(I haven't ran mine yet). The knobby I ran at the last race didn't steer very well at all, but the dirt was super hard.

[fieldy]

I run paddles with the kart axle too.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160507/c11753fc5141ef329f8ec17d4e98d69b.jpg

Are you switching rear shocks for the regular riding in this picture or adjusting the same rear shock you use for racing back up to ride with these paddles?

[atc300r]

X2 on low and wide. 51 is the max width from back in the day.I race both 200x and 250r both are a blast. Im trying to figure out lowering my 200x without using straps and in the back.

[fieldy]

X2 on low and wide. 51 is the max width from back in the day.I race both 200x and 250r both are a blast. Im trying to figure out lowering my 200x without using straps and in the back.

I once broke my 86x shock from bunny hopping off about a 7 foot pile of dirt, true. I cut a piece of 3/4x 1 inch oak and put it in place of the shock. It worked good enough to ride it a little. Thinking a piece of aluminum would be the same as a shock strapped down in the compressed position. Maybe run no shock for ft. I am going to call about getting my shock done for ft. I want to know how much cushion a ft shock has, i need some cushion besides my spine.

[The_Steve_Man]

Are you switching rear shocks for the regular riding in this picture or adjusting the same rear shock you use for racing back up to ride with these paddles?
Surprisingly I run the same ride height. I think the rear is around 2 inches lower. The kart tires are so short that I don't need to lower it. I only lower the front. The front tire also raises the overall height.

You need some suspension because a lot of the TT tracks have a jump or 2. Some bigger some small but nothing huge.

[fieldy]

Do you guys like wider handlebars bars for ft. The KXT i own looks like it was raced and it has 35" bars like they came off a kx but they are bent. I want start looking for some better ones. Origional KXT bar width is around 31.5".

[The_Steve_Man]

I think most of the guys I race with like them a little wider. I am running some steel bars that I got somewhere that are wider and a low bend.

[fieldy]

Anyone from central Indiana or Ohio racing? I need some inspiration and friends to talk with. Not much three wheeler stuff going on in this neck of the woods.

[86T3]

There were some good races in Ohio this year, 2 at Pine Lake in Ashtabula and 1 at Western Reserve

[efhondakid]

I run 18x8 mower tires at 6-8psi. A durablue +4 axle with durablue +1 hubs wheels are 3x5 that is maximum width. I run that for TT, regular FT I use stock hubs inside wheel flipped around and a +3 spacer on the outside.

You’ll want a lowering link for sure, just strapping the axle makes cornering feel like you are a rock skipping across a pond. I run Protaper ATV Mids and roll them way back so they are in my lap when I’m in the pocket.

[Tri-Z 250]

You’ll want a lowering link for sure, just strapping the axle makes cornering feel like you are a rock skipping across a pond.

lol that's a great discription Quote of the day.

[fieldy]

@ 86 T3- I went to Ashtabula in 2016 i believe it was, got the T-shirt. Went through the pits and may have seen the 500 kxt you were riding. If i am right, maybe not. Stuff i seen from this forum. There was also a 4 stroke kxf or something like that running some real small wheels. That one seemed like it wanted to spin out quite a bit in the turns.
There was a big dude on a Honda that was sliding around that track about the whole time. Number 51 or something.

It was very enjoyable but dang was it a hot weekend. Those guys on the starting line looked like they'd been microwaved.

[ironchop]

.....You’ll want a lowering link for sure,.....

Where does one find lowering links for an 86R?



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[yaegerb]

Durablue had them the last time I checked, but that was 3 or 4 years ago

[shortline10]

I just installed one a few months ago , very nice quality .



Where does one find lowering links for an 86R?



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[fieldy]

I run 18x8 mower tires at 6-8psi. A durablue +4 axle with durablue +1 hubs wheels are 3x5 that is maximum width. I run that for TT, regular FT I use stock hubs inside wheel flipped around and a +3 spacer on the outside.

You’ll want a lowering link for sure, just strapping the axle makes cornering feel like you are a rock skipping across a pond. I run Protaper ATV Mids and roll them way back so they are in my lap when I’m in the pocket.

I think i remember reading that you did pretty well in a race. I have some type of a "lowering link" i bought "for"a 86 Tecate. Haven't studied it. Looks like it just replaces the shock.
I will be rebuilding my shocks and forks this winter. Might have to talk to race tech or something. I want one spring and factory shock for flat track with small jumps and another regular factory shock. Maybe you guys would suggest a flat track shock guy and simplify my chores.

[efhondakid]

A nice rebuild is all you really need. There is no real need to go all out with changing valving and everything. The stock rear shock is decent, new seals all around and some progressive springs in the front will be just fine. I race everything on my R, hare scramble, MX, FT/TT and the only changes I really ever make is ride height.

The Tecate link is a completely different setup than the R and will not work.

[atc300r]

Where does one find lowering links for an 86R?



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You may have to order one for the trx 250r.

[fieldy]

A nice rebuild is all you really need. There is no real need to go all out with changing valving and everything. The stock rear shock is decent, new seals all around and some progressive springs in the front will be just fine. I race everything on my R, hare scramble, MX, FT/TT and the only changes I really ever make is ride height.

The Tecate link is a completely different setup than the R and will not work.

Here is the one i got. No shock at all sounds worst than just skipping over water right? I may find out that it replaces the dogbone, dont know yet.
Some people must have used them to race. The shocks are about 4" longer than the link.
254883
I agree a real expensive shock isn't the way to go.
I should start calling around for the right fork springs. I got books, gonna try them all myself.

[fieldy]

Where does one find lowering links for an 86R?



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Buy one? You could whittle one of those up with your eyes closed.

[ironchop]

Buy one? You could whittle one of those up with your eyes closed.Sometimes, if I can buy something already quality made for less than my time setting it all up and making my own would be worth like Louis Meilke's fender washers or BKMs delrin bushings. The price is well worth me not bothering to make that stuff myself.

In this case though, you're correct. I plan to make my own since I would save a good chunk versus my labor involved

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[efhondakid]

Sometimes, if I can buy something already quality made for less than my time setting it all up and making my own would be worth like Louis Meilke's fender washers or BKMs delrin bushings. The price is well worth me not bothering to make that stuff myself.

In this case though, you're correct. I plan to make my own since I would save a good chunk versus my labor involved

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Or you can weld another tab in front of the factory one on the swinger use the stock link and get 4” or so of drop.

[fieldy]

So other than sticking that metal tube i got where the shock is supposed to go, what are my other options for lowering the 86? Low and wide, i must abide!
Maybe have Ironchop smash a spring into some kind of lowering link, Wyle Coyote style? Be thinking about that Ironchop!
Any other shocks work on this?

[fieldy]

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So i am wondering if they used another shock and stuck that tube i got where the adjustable factory "dogbone?" (Last picture) above is at.

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[fieldy]

I run 18x8 mower tires at 6-8psi. A durablue +4 axle with durablue +1 hubs wheels are 3x5 that is maximum width. I run that for TT, regular FT I use stock hubs inside wheel flipped around and a +3 spacer on the outside.

You’ll want a lowering link for sure, just strapping the axle makes cornering feel like you are a rock skipping across a pond. I run Protaper ATV Mids and roll them way back so they are in my lap when I’m in the pocket.

Any races around central Ohio that you run?

[fieldy]

254932254933254934254935

So i am wondering if they used another shock and stuck that tube i got where the adjustable factory "dogbone?" (Last picture) above is at.

254936

I will have to get some wrenches on this to figure it out. I believe i bought the link from an 3bay seller from Las Vegas that sells alot of Tecate stuff.

[86T3]

I can't imagine that link fitting in where the adjustable doggone would go. I bet it was a solid strut to traplce the shock, maybe for drag racing? It's pretty dumb no matter what it was for. Lol. Are you trying to lower a tecate or a 250r? Or both?

[fieldy]

I can't imagine that link fitting in where the adjustable doggone would go. I bet it was a solid strut to traplce the shock, maybe for drag racing? It's pretty dumb no matter what it was for. Lol. Are you trying to lower a tecate or a 250r? Or both?

Yeah, replace the shock was my first thought and i initially bought it to use where the shock was when working on the shocks, instead of the traditional ash stick. I thought i could put around without snaping said ash stick in half, done that, paid for that. When i bought it there was a refernce to lowering. I am going to try to contact the guy from vegas and i also bought a pipe from a guy that raced them alot. Might even have to look for Barnetts phone number, lol. Picking on 250r's just aint the same.
Yes i am wanting to have a lowered one and a regular Tecate and be able to interchange setups trike to trike.

[fieldy]

@ 86T3
What axle width do you like to race? Have a + 4 dura blue and dura blue 4/100 hubs.
Dream would be to have an HRE swingarm and use a honda axle in one.
Other trike would be the durablue +4.
What overall width works for you?

Think 51" is maximum right?
Anyone else welcome to the question.

[86T3]

Luckily, the 2nd gen tecate is the easiest trike there is to taise and lower. Its no problem at all to switch back and forth. I run as wide as I can, but I honestly think being an inch or 2 narrower wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. The NEEDT rules say 50" max. With a +4 and 400ex hubs you should be right there. Depending on your wheel offset.

Edit: I had an HRE swingarm with a Honda style carrier on my tecate 500 and it was AWESOME! That is the ultimate set up

[atc300r]

Im at 50 on my 83 300r. I have plus 6 durablue from and 82 250r with 400ex hubs and offset rims.I squeezed threw Needts measurement devise and it lifted off the ground.

[efhondakid]

Im at 50 on my 83 300r. I have plus 6 durablue from and 82 250r with 400ex hubs and offset rims.I squeezed threw Needts measurement devise and it lifted off the ground.

86 +4 Durablue with +1 Durablue hubs and 3x5 wheels and I have to be perfectly square and it picks up the gate pretty good.

[fieldy]

I will try adjusting the stock dogbone and see where it gets me. T3, do you adjust the shock spanner nuts also when changing ride height?
What d.i.d. chain do you boys run and why? I like their o-ring chains and i see bulk d.i.d. VO o-ring chain for $235 for 25 ft. Thats $47 for a 5' chain, then add masters. Also seeing the d.i.d. professional o-ring chains. Opinions welcome, i need some chains. What about x-rings, any better than O?

[fieldy]

If these rotors are within spec or slightly over, how and where can i get them resurfaced? Is there a way to do this myself?
255139
255140
Some of them are smooth and some have some grooves. Bought 4 new ones but wanting to mic these and see if i can use them for a while.

[86T3]

Nope, don't touch the spring unless you want to fine tune. I never did

[fieldy]

X-ring too costly. They really reduce drag over o-ring chains by about 60%, i think it was.I really believe the o-ring chains will be worth some power loss over non o-ring.

[Tri-Z 250]

Outside the Nationals here is some locals http://www.westernreservemc.com/news.html , PA, NY have some as well.

[atc300r]

X-ring too costly. They really reduce drag over o-ring chains by about 60%, i think it was.I really believe the o-ring chains will be worth some power loss over non o-ring.

I use non oring chain on all my race trikes.

[fieldy]

Outside the Nationals here is some locals http://www.westernreservemc.com/news.html , PA, NY have some as well.

Is this a once a year race for three wheelers or several races a year with regular trike crowd? Thank you, sounds fun.
I am kind of looking for a track where there are frequent three wheel racing people.

[fieldy]

I use non oring chain on all my race trikes.

Seems like the o-ring chains are more cushy,lol. Like the racing chains sound clunky and might be harder on sprockets. I think the o-ring chains spoiled me.
The non o-rings are cheaper though and racers use em for less friction and drag. Now x-ring sounds appealing.....
Probably go non- o race chain. I know redundant.

[Tri-Z 250]

You never know how many could show trying to gather a group again. Since the dissolve of the OTC series, Ohio has been a bit unorganized. Smith Rd being down was a big miss in 2018 for MX.

[fieldy]

Have a 3 wheeler that I heard run when I bought it. I always kept the cylinder lubed up and turned it over every 3 months with some lubricating oil and the cylinder turned over effortlessly. The cylinder stuck after a few months of owning it, I got it loose with some lubricating oil pretty fast. That's why I continued to watch and oil the cylinder. The condensation on the gravel floor shed is horrible. Last December I rotated the cylinder and I dumped some synthetic recline oil (before just lubricating oil) in the plug hole and rotated it. Early April I noticed it was stuck again and i have used about a big can of blaster trying to free it. Right-side up, upside down, trying every couple weeks. I am wanting to disassemble the cylinder to inspect, as was the plan. Sitting in the frame, chain and wheels on it, thing probably has had a previous sticking problem. I can't get this cylinder to budge this time. Not sure what the cylinder plating will show due to the sticking. Piston is high in the cylinder, as i was worried about a minor sticking occuring. Any tricks?
259012

[shortline10]

Pull the flywheel cover off and try rotating the motor in reverse . Might have a coolant leak causing the lock up issue .
Time to Pull the top end .

[fieldy]

Pull the flywheel cover off and try rotating the motor in reverse . Might have a coolant leak causing the lock up issue .
Time to Pull the top end .

What happens in that situation?
I have had the coolant drained out since I bought it several years ago. It would just stick if i wasn't oiling the cylinder every 3 months, now that I want to take it down in frame it won't move. My next move will be take off the head and try to use a wood stick and hit the top of the piston to free it up. It surley can't be a bearing stuck that hard in that time? I haven't ran the motor since I've owned it because I wanted to inspect and leakdown the topend. Had sprayed lubricating oil in crankcase too. I think it was that synthetic Redline oil, i dumped down the spark plug hole. I didnt realizize it was a synthetic oil at that moment, was in a hurry.
Have another one running in the past 2 weeks and it never sticks, and wanted to at least fire this one so discovered it was stuck couple months ago.
When I put it in gear and rotate the tires backwards or forwards, won't budge.
In 3 winter months with no coolant at all in motor now locked up hard.
I will try what you suggested and wanted to give a few more details and maybe get more information from you and the others.
If i take the top end loose and it pulls straight off I will be absolutely shocked with bottom jaw on floor.

[fieldy]

You could be correct Shoreline 10. A mess under there no cover gasket at all, had orange mineral deposits about 3/16ths deep. I am guessing main bearing siezed. I want to learn to rebuild these motors. I was expecting to rebuild this one but thought I could do some putting around first.

[shortline10]

In my experience with liquid cooled 2 strokes that are stuck , the cause is coolant leak issues . Not counting catastrophic bearing failures .



You could be correct Shoreline 10. A mess under there no cover gasket at all, had orange mineral deposits about 3/16ths deep. I am guessing main bearing siezed. I want to learn to rebuild these motors. I was expecting to rebuild this one but thought I could do some putting around first.

[fieldy]

Can water enter the crankcase from the head gasket and from the water pump seal area?

259023

On another Tecate I have running, the water pump housing is leaking.
The gasket for the cover was bad it appears. Unless there ls a weep hole if the seal has gone out. I didn't see one on the water pump cover, anyway water was dripping from the bottom of gasket area. Is there a tell-tell hole on these?

[fieldy]

This may be a water mark on the inside cover from a previous time and owner, what a way to treat your PVL :mad:
It's always had a great spark though. If it still has spark after cleaning I will plan on reusing this ignition.

259041

Next time, pull top end and work on freeing bearings in crankcase.

[Red Rider]

Can water enter the crankcase from the head gasket and from the water pump seal area?If your head gasket is leaking, coolant can leak into the combustion chamber, and down into & around the crank & main bearings. If your water pump seal is leaking, coolant can only enter the clutch/gearbox, unless the right main crank seal is leaking also, which would then allow coolant into the crankcase as well.

[fieldy]

Can anyone tell me if this left side case can be repaired?259063

And... is this spring a stock item on the clutch release. I cannot find the part shown anywhere.

259064

Another picture.

259065

[ironchop]

Yes, on the case repair. That looks mild to me.

I don't think I would recommend trying to do it without taking the cases all the way apart, however

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[fieldy]

It looks like the cylinder and piston are free of any scrapes or gauldges, i can feel none anyway.
No compression test was ever done. The rod is free but putting oil in the holes I believe lead to the main bearings. I can't believe the bottom locked like this in three months.

259154

259155

259159

259160

[fieldy]

The piston underside looks like it was never overheated and the Nikasil plating looks good at the exhaust ports. I can feel a slight ridge where the rings hit the high point in the cylinder. So the measurments and specs will tell the story.
I also will check the head and cylinder for possible warping. Inspection of power valves and cleaning also.
I am going to get a tusk splitter and puller set with a c clip crank puller adapter. Not sure if i need the puller yet, need to study the manual. New to rebuilding. This bottom end will or should be a winter project for me. I hope to do some riding also, soon.

259179

259180

I was thinking about dumping some mineral spirits or transmission fluid into the bottom end because I would like for it to be rotating when I separate the cases. The mineral spirts may just run out the main seals though.
I think the water came through the seals so I want to check the clutch oil too, I will update on that next time around.

[fieldy]

Dumped some kerosene and transmission fluid in the crankcase. Hopefully it will free up.
259200

Drained the 10w from the case and I see some green juice. Slightly surprised.

259201

Does anybody recognize the piston in the above picture? I was wondering if it was stock.

[Red Rider]

Drained the 10w from the case and I see some green juice. Slightly surprised.Bummer. Even if it does free up, I wouldn't run it. Not sure if that's what you're intending to do.


Does anybody recognize the piston in the above picture? I was wondering if it was stock.Based on the markings, it appears to be a Wiseco to me, which isn't stock.

[fieldy]

Bummer. Even if it does free up, I wouldn't run it. Not sure if that's what you're intending to do.

Based on the markings, it appears to be a Wiseco to me, which isn't stock.

Yes, I won't run one with an air leak. Thanks on the Weisco. I am attempting to get started on a good runner I can race. I have one that runs and hope it leaks down ok. Cross my fingers.

Going to strip one to the frame and start. Origional paint, kinda rusty in places. I have blasted and powder coated bike frames but I was thinking spray this one. Not wanting show pieces at this time. Any do's or don'ts? Really dont wanna mess up from the get go. I know not to blast hardware before zinc plating, any other tips?

259204

[barnett468]

Exactly what bike/engine is this?

[fieldy]

Exactly what bike/engine is this?

It's THE MOST POWERFUL THREE WHEELER IN THE UNIVERSE!
circa 1986.

[fieldy]

Just run of the mill Tecates'. Engines may or may not be origional. Pretty rough all around. Solid frames. Forks straight and clean.

[barnett468]

It's THE MOST POWERFUL THREE WHEELER IN THE UNIVERSE!
circa 1986.

You have the elusive 86 TECATE?

[Red Rider]

Yes, I won't run one with an air leak. Thanks on the Weisco.Good going. Sorry, I didn't realize this one had an air leak as well, bummer bummer, or double bummer if you will.


Going to strip one to the frame and start. Origional paint, kinda rusty in places. I have blasted and powder coated bike frames but I was thinking spray this one. Not wanting show pieces at this time. Any do's or don'ts? Really dont wanna mess up from the get go. I know not to blast hardware before zinc plating, any other tips?I'm a firm believer in powder coating. The first time I repainted my R, I used a quality automotive paint & spray-gun. The bike was ridden mostly on hard-pack, with the occasional trip to the sand dunes. The paint lasted about as long as the OEM paint did (4 years), before it was chipping off in all the same places that the OEM paint did (on lower frame rails, especially around the foot-pegs). This was mostly due to rocks & sand kicked up by my own front tire, but my main riding partner did have an '87 Tecate. :wondering

The second time it was painted, I had it powdercoated. Since it has been powdercoated, I mostly ride sand dunes, and occasionally some hard pack, and there are no chips whatsoever, although the powdercoat is not as glossy in the same lower frame rail areas. Regardless of which paint method you choose, the only other tip I have, is to go over your frame with a fine tooth comb, and clean up any weld splatter/sharp edges with a file, and have any cracks re-welded before it is painted. I have no input or experience with re-zinc plating hardware.

[fieldy]

Barnett-Yes, they are Tecates. I guess what I am asking is there a certain media that should be used for sandblasting or will any media or sandblaster screw said Tecate frame? Didn't know if there are better paths to go. Last bike frame I did, I just said blast it, then powdercoat it. I went picked it up all seem great. These Tecate frames are worth more than the bikes though. Just wondered about it.

[fieldy]

Good going. Sorry, I didn't realize this one had an air leak as well, bummer bummer, or double bummer if you will.

I'm a firm believer in powder coating. The first time I repainted my R, I used a quality automotive paint & spray-gun. The bike was ridden mostly on hard-pack, with the occasional trip to the sand dunes. The paint lasted about as long as the OEM paint did (4 years), before it was chipping off in all the same places that the OEM paint did (on lower frame rails, especially around the foot-pegs). This was mostly due to rocks & sand kicked up by my own front tire, but my main riding partner did have an '87 Tecate. :wondering

The second time it was painted, I had it powdercoated. Since it has been powdercoated, I mostly ride sand dunes, and occasionally some hard pack, and there are no chips whatsoever, although the powdercoat is not as glossy in the same lower frame rail areas. Regardless of which paint method you choose, the only other tip I have, is to go over your frame with a fine tooth comb, and clean up any weld splatter/sharp edges with a file, and have any cracks re-welded before it is painted. I have no input or experience with re-zinc plating hardware.

I should of said that I won't run one with a suspected air leak. I never got it leakdown tested. Water has apparently ruined the bearings and the seals must be bad so I will replace those. I am jumping around alot on thoughts and trikes. I need to name them.

I might try to paint this Tecate because I could later tear it down and Respray the frame. Might look more origional with paint too.

Next chance, leakdown a motor and hope I got a rider, hopefully do.

I am gonna read my new Clymer service manual (when I find it) and study the Kawasaki manual before I start asking questions about the motor. I got questions.

Oh yes, I am not surprised that your friends 87 TECATE sandblasted the paint off your 250r, ☺ and thanks for the opinion and tips on the prep work!

[Red Rider]

I guess what I am asking is there a certain media that should be used for sandblasting or will any media or sandblaster screw said Tecate frame? Didn't know if there are better paths to go. Last bike frame I did, I just said blast it, then powdercoat it. I went picked it up all seem great.I've done sandblasting, but I didn't do the sandblasting prior to having my R frame powdercoated. That was all included in the powdercoating price, so I didn't bother.


I should of said that I won't run one with a suspected air leak. I never got it leakdown tested. Water has apparently ruined the bearings and the seals must be bad so I will replace those.Gotcha.


I am gonna read my new Clymer service manual (when I find it) and study the Kawasaki manual before I start asking questions about the motor. I got questions.I'M NOT SURE HOW HIGHLIGHTED THIS IS IN THE CLYMER MANUAL, BUT A BIG GOTCHA IS: THE NUT, THAT RETAINS THE POWER-VALVE ADVANCER LEVER, IS LEFT-HAND THREADS (REVERSE THREADS). Turn it the wrong way, and you'll destroy the nut and/or the power-valve governor shaft, and undamaged shafts are hard to find.


Oh yes, I am not surprised that your friends 87 TECATE sandblasted the paint off your 250r, ☺ and thanks for the information.Glad to help, and don't worry about my paint. I got the Tecate back but good, via a blown out headlight lens, courtesy of the extreme roost & rock throwing ability of the 250R. :naughty: