85 ATC250R Refresh / Rebuild (First Timer)

[Onetrackmind]

Well I am finally getting around to doing a full-on refresh of my 250R. It always bugged me that the frame was bent and every time I tried to work on something that bolt was rust/corrosion welded in place. So...I bought a very nice, straight frame along with some other odds n ends from BKM a while back and started amassing some other needed pieces.

I am really undecided on which way to go with this build. On one hand a simple frame swap with a good deep cleaning and lubing would be entirely sufficient. On the other hand why not go all the way and get some powder coat, paint and plating done? I mean...it's already completely disassembled now and I may not want to ever do this again to this bike! What do y'all think?

I may already have a really good (cheap) connection to both a powder coater AND a plater that are both local.That would make the decision a little easier for me. I also now have access to a blasting cabinet and a mobile sand blaster.

As an aside, what would be a good price for a powder coat job on a frame?

A couple of weeks ago I started the tear down and it went pretty well until I started working on the rearend. The brake hub would not move! No amount of Kroil or heat or beating would make it budge so...I cut the dang axle! Voila! Unfortunately, I then had a two-piece axle and a completely jacked up carrier. Fortunately, my bro Brendon came to the rescue with nice replacement axle and rebuilt an eBay carrier that I bought. I say rebuilt, but this thing now looks like an NOS work of art! Thank you sir!

The next problem was (of course) the pivot bolt. It was so badly stuck that when I turned it, the whole swingarm rotated with it. I finally got it spinning w a ton of heat and a borrowed electric impact wrench. My $20 air hammer got it inching in the right direction, then it was back to the 2 lb sledge and a long lag bolt to drive it the rest of the way.

Today I will try to remove the bearings and collars. I saw a thread a while back where one user (roscoew maybe) used all-thread w nuts, washers and sockets to push and pull them out. I will post my results.

Since I completely jacked the pivot bolt nut and also bugered the bolt threads, I am now in need of a replacement pivot bolt and nut. I know that a TRX250R (86-89) bolt will work, but they are eBay pricey. I have heard that a 400EX bolt will work, but what years?

I will start to post some pics of my progress (or lack there of) today or tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Cody




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[yaegerb]

Pics or it didn't happen ;)

[Onetrackmind]

Ha! You know all to well that it happened... I'm starting to feel sick to my stomach that my R will forever remain in boxes!

This is a pic of it the day I bought it...pretty rough:
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And here is a recent pic before it exploded all over the garage:
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Here is my handiwork with a grinder and my awesome two-piece 250R axle:
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[yaegerb]

Nope, it'll be back together in a couple months. No worries man!

[Onetrackmind]

A few pics of the sweet donor frame and other replacement parts that I got from Bryan:
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...and some other stuff that I have bought:
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Oh, and I got a sweet deal on these OEM rear fenders:
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And these '86 rear wheels and tires which are in amazing shape ($50 total). The front forks and wheel assembly were snagged for another $25! BTW, will '86 forks work with an '85 front hub and brake?
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[Onetrackmind]

More parts:
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The decals came from Jeff Blackburn (pantera1975) and they are awesome. I also found an OEM grab bar that is in decent shape.

This is what I am now left with:
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And an unneeded (slightly bent) frame
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So... now that the easy part is done. Now what? AHHHH!!!!

[Mr. Clean]

What do y'all think? Yes, redo the paint/powder/plating

As an aside, what would be a good price for a powder coat job on a frame? I had one frame powder coated, it was $225

I have heard that a 400EX bolt will work, but what years? I think all years 400EX are the same, you could check part numbers.

Today I will try to remove the bearings and collars. The collars should be pretty easy to remove, they are not pressed in but corrosion could be an issue. Try using a propane torch for both the colllars and bearings. I have had success with heating the swingarm where the bearing are installed and using a socket and extension to drive out the bearing once the collar is removed.


Wish me luck! Good Luck!!!






See responses in red

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks for the responses Mike. I will tackle the collars and bushings this afternoon and order a 400EX pivot bolt as well. Mine might be ok to reuse, but the nut is toast...so might as well replace the set.

Waiting to hear back from the powder coater and also need to start compiling a list of what parts need coating, paint or plating and what colors to use. I need to start doing my homework!

Thanks again.
Cody

[Onetrackmind]

I have found both a local powder coater and plater and will be getting the various pieces to them in the next week or two.

Question: Some of the parts like foot brake lever, foot pegs and grab bar were originally black oxide zinc...correct? Should I go back with the original plating on these items or take them to be powder coated black instead?

[yaegerb]

I have found both a local powder coater and plater and will be getting the various pieces to them in the next week or two.

Question: Some of the parts like foot brake lever, foot pegs and grab bar were originally black oxide zinc...correct? Should I go back with the original plating on these items or take them to be powder coated black instead?


I think the brake lever, foot pegs and grab bar were hot pink oxide zinc......

[loganm]

Anything you can fit in an oven you can powdercoat yourself, if you want to try your hand at that.

[JesseA420]

Should I go back with the original plating on these items or take them to be powder coated black instead?

thats the beauty of a complete tear down and refurbish. u can do it any way u want :) completely up to you.
if your powder coater carries prismatic powders u can add some pizazz to your color scheme with flake or super chrome base with a translucent colored midcoat :)

[Onetrackmind]

I think the brake lever, foot pegs and grab bar were hot pink oxide zinc......

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too. Maybe I could find some grips to match! BKM...do you have any extras from you CR?

[Onetrackmind]

thats the beauty of a complete tear down and refurbish. u can do it any way u want :) completely up to you.
if your powder coater carries prismatic powders u can add some pizazz to your color scheme with flake or super chrome base with a translucent colored midcoat :)

I have discovered that I am a closet OEM obsessive freakazoid so I am trying to keep all of the finishes as close to factory as possible, without sacrificing durability.

[bkm]

Sorry, all the hot pink goes on my rides.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160324/6aa4af2a550fe4175fc2488968b48a84.jpg

[bkm]

The foot pegs were black btw.

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[bkm]

I have discovered that I am a closet OEM obsessive freakazoid so I am trying to keep all of the finishes as close to factory as possible, without sacrificing durability.
Don't burn yourself out obsessing over nos and oem. This happened to me on my bike and really turned me off of trikes after that.

[Onetrackmind]

Sorry, all the hot pink goes on my rides.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160324/6aa4af2a550fe4175fc2488968b48a84.jpg

I'm loving the period correct colors on that CR man! Heck...makes me want to start a whole other project!

[yaegerb]

Damn man that thing is really turning out nice!

[ironchop]

I been looking for another mid eighties CR for awhile but they are hard to find and the bikes I locate are trashed beyond belief.

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[bkm]

I been looking for another mid eighties CR for awhile but they are hard to find and the bikes I locate are trashed beyond belief.

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

Hell come buy this one off of me. I want a kdx again anyway. LOL

[Onetrackmind]

I've had a few days off so in between honey-do's, I was able to get a few things accomplished. First off, I got my new (rebuilt) carrier back from yaegerb (this thing looks brand spanking new!!!) along with a replacement axle, sprocket, sprocket hub, rotor and castle nuts.
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I also went to a buddy's house to do some minor frame repair. We welded in new nuts for the rear exhaust hanger, and both rear grab bar mounts as well as filled in some unnecessary holes previously drilled and added the tool box support wire that I stole from my old frame.
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I blasted some of the small parts in a benchtop cabinet and will try to get them powdered in satin black at a friend's house tomorrow.
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The rest is off to a powder coating shop for a proper dose of color and I am dropping all of my hardware and axle off at the plater tomorrow.

Oh! And the engine is on it's way up to St. Louis for a rebuild by yaegerb and PC!

I start a several week-long stint of non-stop work, so this may be it until late April. Stay tuned!

[Onetrackmind]

I was able to get to the plater this morning and pick up my hardware. Wow...it's amazing how much better all of it looks!
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I have to thank BusterBrown for setting me straight on the correct finish for the wishbone and the grab bar. Unfortunately, the grab bar had already been plated so I will need to blast it and PC it later. The plater actually did the foot brake lever in yellow zinc instead of black, so it has to be redone. Oh well.

It's amazing how the shiny new look really brings out the imperfections (see axle). Next time I will definitely spend more time polishing before it goes out for plating.
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I think it all still looks amazing, but it could definitely look better with more prep. Now for the hard part...miking and sorting all of the loose bolts. :wondering

The frame, swinger and hubs are still out for powder and my guy is waaaay behind. He hopes to have it back to me next week. We shall see.

I sent my tank off to Mr. Clean for one of his legendary polishing jobs and the the rear shock went out to none other than onformula1 for a rebuild, revalve and cleaning.

Hopefully in the next two or three weeks all of this will start coming back together and at least resemble an 85R again. :beer

[yaegerb]

I was able to get to the plater this morning and pick up my hardware. Wow...it's amazing how much better all of it looks!
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I have to thank BusterBrown for setting me straight on the correct finish for the wishbone and the grab bar. Unfortunately, the grab bar had already been plated so I will need to blast it and PC it later. The plater actually did the foot brake lever in yellow zinc instead of black, so it has to be redone. Oh well.

It's amazing how the shiny new look really brings out the imperfections (see axle). Next time I will definitely spend more time polishing before it goes out for plating.
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I think it all still looks amazing, but it could definitely look better with more prep. Now for the hard part...miking and sorting all of the loose bolts. :wondering

The frame, swinger and hubs are still out for powder and my guy is waaaay behind. He hopes to have it back to me next week. We shall see.

I sent my tank off to Mr. Clean for one of his legendary polishing jobs and the the rear shock went out to none other than onformula1 for a rebuild, revalve and cleaning.

Hopefully in the next two or three weeks all of this will start coming back together and at least resemble an 85R again. :beer


Looks fantastic! can't wait to see it become a roller.

[Onetrackmind]

Not much to add since last week. I was able to get quite a bit done and shipped off while I had a break from work, but now I'm back on a standard diet of trabajo...oh well. Life.

Thank goodness my awesome bro Yaeger has been helping me. I shipped my motor up north to him and it is definitely in good hands now. I knew that I had some case saver damage, so we decided to send both cases to Carlos at BDT for the reapairs....what I didn't know was I that had crank and counterbalancer problems too...ugh.

BDT is going to address both of these issues and fix all of my case damage too. The jug went out to Fast for a fresh hone and chamfering and should be back in St. Louis about the same time my cases, crank and counter are. All new bearings, seals and gaskets and a metric sh_t ton of greatness later...and I have a brand new motor! Thank you brother Yaeger!!!

I have decided to go head and powder the calipers, and brackets. Went ahead and disassembled the perches, levers and front master cylinder too. This is all going to get a coat of black satin powder as well. Oh...and the bars too.

I'm starting to realize that I'm not REALLY restoring this machine...MANY OTHER people are! I disassembled and am merely RE-assembling the work that others are performing FOR me. For THAT I am forever grateful.

So...like I said... Not much too add, but I should start making some headway in the weeks to come.

But for now...

Yaegerb
onformula1
Mr. Clean
Buster Brown
BKM

Many thanks!





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[bkm]

I was leery of powder coating the front master cylinder because of the sight glass, so I tried it on a junk master and it melted the glass really bad. I remember reading somewhere on the net someone replaced the sight glass, but it wasn't easy. I just bought a newer 400ex/450r master and taped off the glass and painted it with caliper paint to help with any brake fluid spills.

[Onetrackmind]

I was leery of powder coating the front master cylinder because of the sight glass, so I tried it on a junk master and it melted the glass really bad.

Me too! Luckily, Buster Brown got back to me on that, walked me through the sight glass removal and provided me with the replacement glass and installation instructions. I have already ordered TWO new glasses (cuz I KNOW I will royally F the first one up!) I think I'm set!

[Onetrackmind]

At least I have something to ride while my "main squeeze" is under the knife. We spent last weekend with friends at their East Texas cabin patrolling the woods and keeping things safe:
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My son has decided that my X is actually SLIGHTLY cooler than his KFX...uh-oh!
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:cool:

[Onetrackmind]

I finally got around to cleaning up my wiring harness which was completely filthy and found this:
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It looks like my voltage regulator was hooked up wrong and the ground wire has been fried. The headlight has always worked, but the tail light? Not so much. Hmmm....

[yaegerb]

you don't have a lot to play with concerning the yellow wire so be careful when cutting the male end off the voltage regulator...um why are the colors swapped on the plugs?

[Onetrackmind]

DING DING DING!!! Winner winner chicken dinner! :w00t:

That's what I was referencing in my post above. Somebody hooked it up wrong and it has been so caked with gunk that I didn't see it until now. I know that's not good...but how bad is it?

[yaegerb]

can you take it apart. The female green connector looks fried. Need to put a new one on. How bad is the yellow male connector?

[Onetrackmind]

The yellow is ok, but the green one is definitely Ghandi. Gonna have to cut it off, then I will check the resistance across the regulator. Is there anything else that could be affected by this?

Also, the rubber that holds the regulator onto the frame is dry rotted and brittle...anyone have an extra that they want to get rid of?

[yaegerb]

regulator is for lights only. did your front work?

[Onetrackmind]

That's what I thought. Yeah, the front worked...but not the rear. I will throw another bulb in when I get it all back together next year. :wondering

Thanks man.

[Mr. Clean]

Tank is on the stand, started some clean up.

[Onetrackmind]

Suh-weet! You're the man Mike!

Now I'm REALLY glad I got new shrouds for that tank!

[Onetrackmind]

Well...still not much progress to report. I've been out of town a lot for work and just not much time for anything other than family stuff lately.

I did get the brake assemblies taken apart and off to the PC guy...hopefully that will all be back pretty soon. One of my rear brake Pistons is missing the insert that pushes against the pad. I know the pistons are obsolete, so I looked on eBay...only found one set of aftermarket for $70. Is there another piston out there that will work for my application? I think it is the "A" piston...the one without the P-brake shaft.

Thanks

[Onetrackmind]

Here is a pic of my rear pistons side by side:
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The one I need to replace measures D 25.36mm x 26.04mm

Does anyone know if a piston from another bike will fit?

[yaegerb]

Here is a pic of my rear pistons side by side:
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The one I need to replace measures D 25.36mm x 26.04mm

Does anyone know if a piston from another bike will fit?

You can still buy a kit new to replace the pistons.

Here you go sir. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-TRX250R-ATC250R-TRX-ATC-250R-New-Rear-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Set-Oil-Seals-/361543310854?hash=item542da91e06:g:dpIAAOSwaZdXH9H m&vxp=mtr

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks Brother Yaeger!

Yeah...I saw those, but was hoping that I wouldn't have to drop $70 on them.

That might be my only option.

[Onetrackmind]

I finally got around to bead blasting some of the aluminum parts and think that they turned out pretty well. It was all in pretty bad shape...it's amazing how much better it all looks now.
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And (after five full weeks) I got some of my parts back from the powder coater. The frame looks outstanding in Super Mirror Red and all the black parts turned out fantastic as well.
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I'm still missing the handlebars (he forgot to do them) and the top of the throttle housing. It is a 2 tone with raised HONDA in silver...that didn't get done right. I'm also missing the swinger and wheel hubs. They were shot in gold, with a satin clear, but the clear sagged. Gotta be blasted and redone...oh well. I think I will take buster brown's (and bkm's) advice this time and leave off the clear coat...I think it took away from the richness of the metallic gold.

I'm starting to get the majority of the parts in to make this a roller, but just need to find the time to wrench. Hopefully I will have more progress to share in the next few weeks.

[yaegerb]

Yummy, the frame looks like a big hot tamale. This thing is going to look sick....where's the motor? To scared to come out and play with his new shiny friends?

[Onetrackmind]

Well... I sent the motor up to Fatasse Racing in MO. Those guys take their sweet time just like my PC guy does! [emoji41]

It needed EXTENSIVE help as the case damage was the least of my worries. Complete an utter rebuild with a coat of fresh powder after its all said and done. Those guys come HIGHLY recommended and I don't dare rush perfection!

[yaegerb]

Well... I sent the motor up to Fatasse Racing in MO. Those guys take their sweet time just like my PC guy does! [emoji41]


I like that name...I may use that one someday :)

[bkm]

Looks awesome man keep up the good work.

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[Onetrackmind]

Thanks Bryan! Your 86R build has and is my inspiration for this one. I just hope it turns out in the same ball park as yours.

Unfortunately with summer coming up, the assembly will likely be at a snail's pace unless I can somehow convince the wife that this would be a great way to teach the kids a thing or two.

[Onetrackmind]

That's interesting that you brought that up Glamy. Because the wheel and tire set are Enkei/Ohtsu, which are correct for the '86 but not for my '85. To be correct, I need Hirata/Dunlop and I don't see me finding those...Unless I could swing a trade. Anyone?

I would say the tires have at least 80% tread left...quite possibly more and they are in pretty good shape. Very little sidewall cracking.

The front has the same amount of tread, but has considerable cracking and won't hold air.

I need the rear wheels even though they aren't correct for my bike because mine originals are trashed. I may look at selling off the Pro Vectors to help offset my ever-expanding build costs though. I like the new Cheetahs (I have a set on my 350X). Having them on this build would be just fine with me.

Thanks for the idea.

[onformula1]

I like that name...I may use that one someday :)

I thought it was Fatazz Racing??? Or Phatazz Racing??? (My mistake?) :lol:

[Onetrackmind]

You may be right Milner! I will have to go back through my records to find the correct spelling (it's been so long since I addressed the crate that I have forgotten [emoji23]).

[yaegerb]

I thought it was Fatazz Racing??? Or Phatazz Racing??? (My mistake?) :lol:

Fatasse Racing it is. Book it Danno!

[Onetrackmind]

CHRISTMAS IS IN SEPTEMBER THIS YEAR!!!

I thought today would be a great day to knock the dust off this build thread, as my engine just arrived on my doorstep. I have been anxiously awaiting it's arrival and it definitely did not disappoint... THIS ENGINE IS A PIECE OF ART! The guys (guy) at Fatasse Racing of St. Louis, MO do an OUTSTANDING job and I simply cannot say enough great things about them...my hat is off.

This engine was completely disassembled, and the cases were sent to Carlos at BDT for repair (case saver mounts and oil drain hole). Upon their return, we sourced all new OEM bearings, o-rings, gaskets and seals as well as a complete new bolt set. It was determined that I needed a new counter-balancer and the crank needed major attention as well (this was also done by BDT). Reassembly came after the entire engine was coated in satin black powder. It simply looks amazing...maybe too good to even put back in the frame. I've never seen an engine look this good!

It will be a couple more weeks until I can dive into the next phase of this build, which is...actually building it. I have almost all of the parts back, now it is up to me to put them all back in the right places!

Anyway, here are a few pics of the "Heart of the Beast"...I hope you enjoy. (The pics just don't do it justice)

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[yaegerb]

We at fatasse racing aim to please! Glad you like it brother. She should run like the wind blows.

[Onetrackmind]

Brother Brendon, you sir are the man!


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[Onetrackmind]

Indeed the man is a Grade A professional (and a he11 of a nice guy to boot). No detail was spared and absolutely no shortcuts were taken. By all practical purposes, this is a brand new engine and I honestly believe that it is better built than it was when it was originally assembled back in early 1985. I can't wait to hear it sing!

I have asked Brendon to give a full synopsis of what work was performed as I know I would leave a lot out. He definitely had his work cut our for him with this one...it was a wonder it didn't grenade on me before I decided to send it to him.

[yaegerb]

Cody asked that I document the build in pics. Here you go. I will let the pictures do most of the talking.

This is when I received the motor earlier this year. On the outside it looked good, but a pressure test revealed both crank seals leaking.

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Upon case break down I found the counter balancer bearing absolutely destroyed (there was literally no time left on it) and we're lucky the balancer didn't blow out the front of the cases. I also found the kicker shaft distorted where the 30MM spacer rides. We had to source a whole new kickstarter because of this.

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One of the main reasons he wanted the motor re worked was to fix the all-to-familiar broken case saver mounts. The left case was sent to BDT for some proper treatment. The right case was also sent to get a time sert installed in the oil bolt hole (also notorious for being ruined from years of over tightening).
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After receiving the cases I pressed in all new bearings. EVERY bearing was replaced. I also mic'd and rebuilt the transmission. A few shims needed to be replaced. Also the center shift fork and 3rd gear were toast. Quality replacements were sourced from BDT.
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When sending the cases, I also sent the crank for a rebuild, true and weld. Once I received the crank I didn't even think I needed to check the welds, so I reassembled the case halves and ended up with the first picture below. The crank wouldn't spin because the left hand weld was protruding into the cases. I split the cases back apart and proceeded to grinding that area down with a stone and dremel.

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Case half reassembly number 2. The grinding went perfectly.
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Yummy fresh powder. Piston/Cylinder/head all back together.
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Brand new OEM clutch plates (fibers/steels) and inner clutch hub was installed along with new springs and bolts. This is how I prep the steels before setting in the hub.
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I decided to blast the intake manifold and clean it up along with a thorough cleaning of the reeds. It was at this point that I cleaned the stator and put shrink wrap on the stator wires sealing them off from any future water.
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And here is the final product. Cody went the extra mile and bought the BDT bolt kit and I think the whole unit turned out fabulous. There were a couple delays and a few hiccups in the build but all in all this motor is built to run. Maybe in a year or two he will send it back to fatasse racing for some port work and a stroker crank :)
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[Mr. Clean]

Awesome Job!! Cody stop flying jets and get to work building this thing of beauty!!

[Onetrackmind]

You might be on to something Mike! If I could just figure out how to do that and still get a paycheck, I would be set.

Unfortunately, I'm not smart enough to figure that scenario out (yet) so I am doomed to trike building on days off. It should be relatively easy for me though, I farmed out all of the hard stuff to the pros like you, Brendon and Milner! All I have to do is bolt it all back together.

I am so pumped though! I officially have all of this machine back under the same roof now.

My mailman showed up at about 7:30 pm tonight with my shock! Milner definitely did not disappoint...in fact he nailed it! I am so happy that I sent it to him because this thing is another form of functional beauty and I will be so proud to have it as part of this build!

I sent it to him for a rebuild and revalve and he went way above and beyond. This shock looks like it came right off of the NOS shelf at a dealership...very, very happy. Thank you Milner!!!
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[bkm]

Looking really good man. I'm curious about welding the crank pin though. I know the inherent problems with the banshee cranks, but I've never heard of there being a probelm with the crank pins on the 250r. Especially not a stock engine. I'd be more woried about the tins coming apart before there was a problem with the pin. But, I guess there is no such thing as building an engine too strong.

[bkm]

They are basically crank stuffers to reduce crankcase volume and move air/fuel faster. When they come apart they do some major damage as you've experienced. These tins would be my main area of concern over the crank pin. Personally, I've never seen or heard of a pin coming loose and taking out an engine, but I have seen the damage first hand the tins will create.

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[yaegerb]

Yep, they are crank stuffers and yes they are another weak point. I failed to mention that on this particular crank the left Tin had some damage and Carlos decided to replace the entire tin. Carlos and I talked a while on the phone about welding the tins but we decided that since this was going to be stock there was no need. If Cody had wanted to go 4mil I would have had the tins welded. I get all of my crank pins welded because for 10 bucks why the hell not...just extra insurance to me. But yes you are correct bryan, I have never heard of a pin coming apart on an R, however they implode on shee's on a daily basis.

[bkm]

Nothing wrong with a little extra insurance. It might make future rebuilds a pain, but it won't come apart.

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[Onetrackmind]

I was able to make a little progress today and am really starting to get excited about this build again.

I started with driving the outer bearing races into the steering tube, then went straight to mating the engine to the frame. I thought the motor looked incredible by itself, but it actually looks better in the frame!
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Next up, I mounted the dogbone to the swinger and then pressed in my new Delrin swingarm pivot collars courtesy of BKM...thanks Bryan! These things are awesome.

The swinger went in smoothly and my new TRX400EX pivot bolt holds it together perfectly. I did have to go back and loosen all the engine mounts to get the swinger to mate up...is that normal? After the pivot bolt was torqued, I went back and torqued the mounts.

All in all, I'm very pleased with what was accomplished in a couple of hours:

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Hopefully I will have some more time this weekend and get things a little further along. I had hoped to have it on it's wheels, but realized that I don't have the lower dust seal for the steering stem. The front end will unfortunately have to wait for a few more days. Oh well.

The goal is to get the rear suspension and cooling system mounted and maybe even the carb and wiring harness by Sunday evening. With kids sports and other projects it's amazing just how little time is left over on the weekends!

Quick question: Does anyone know a good source for bulk hose? I want to replace the tubing for the coolant overflow bottle, carb vent lines and fuel line. Also trying to keep it stock in appearance. Thanks.

[250rmanfmf]

looking great! Nice job so far

[yaegerb]

I was able to make a little progress today and am really starting to get excited about this build again.

I started with driving the outer bearing races into the steering tube, then went straight to mating the engine to the frame. I thought the motor looked incredible by itself, but it actually looks better in the frame!
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Next up, I mounted the dogbone to the swinger and then pressed in my new Delrin swingarm pivot collars courtesy of BKM...thanks Bryan! These things are awesome.

The swinger went in smoothly and my new TRX400EX pivot bolt holds it together perfectly. I did have to go back and loosen all the engine mounts to get the swinger to mate up...is that normal? After the pivot bolt was torqued, I went back and torqued the mounts.

All in all, I'm very pleased with what was accomplished in a couple of hours:

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Hopefully I will have some more time this weekend and get things a little further along. I had hoped to have it on it's wheels, but realized that I don't have the lower dust seal for the steering stem. The front end will unfortunately have to wait for a few more days. Oh well.

The goal is to get the rear suspension and cooling system mounted and maybe even the carb and wiring harness by Sunday evening. With kids sports and other projects it's amazing just how little time is left over on the weekends!

Quick question: Does anyone know a good source for bulk hose? I want to replace the tubing for the coolant overflow bottle, carb vent lines and fuel line. Also trying to keep it stock in appearance. Thanks.

Looking phenomenal! Keep it up, you will be riding before first snow!

[bkm]

Looks awesome. Stay away from the clear bulk hose at the box stores. It's super thin walled and kinks instead of bending like the stuff honda used.

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[atc007]

Honda hose,don't skimp now ! Looking great ! Thanx for sharing!

[Onetrackmind]

Honda hose it is then. Thanks guys.


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[Onetrackmind]

Thanks glamy... [emoji3]. I was going to call my dealer to either buy or order some, but Partzilla shows the breather tubing (from right rad to the bottle) as discontinued.

I have two sets of rads and overflow bottles with different tubing there. One has clear vinyl and one has black (maybe it's just vacuum line). Don't know what to use there.

Eh hoser... [emoji106]


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[yaegerb]

Thanks glamy... [emoji3]. I was going to call my dealer to either buy or order some, but Partzilla shows the breather tubing (from right rad to the bottle) as discontinued.

I have two sets of rads and overflow bottles with different tubing there. One has clear vinyl and one has black (maybe it's just vacuum line). Don't know what to use there.

Eh hoser... [emoji106]


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If I have to source hard to find stuff, I usually call BDT as a last resort. They usually have those hard to find items but you're gonna pay for it.

[barnett468]

Quick question: Does anyone know a good source for bulk hose? I want to replace the tubing for the coolant overflow bottle, carb vent lines and fuel line. Also trying to keep it stock in appearance. Thanks.

I will check today but I think this overflow hose is for around 9/32" size fittings . I use this on some of the vintage cars I work on.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c2az-9324-c?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-scott-drake&gclid=CPHP7Yviuc8CFUFrfgodeucDGg

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/sdk-c2az-9324-c_xl.jpg?rep=False


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

[barnett468]

.
Ok, that hose fits 1/4" and 9/32" fittings.


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

[Onetrackmind]

Thank you Barnett, I will look into getting some of that.


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[barnett468]

Thank you Barnett, I will look into getting some of that.


No prob, you're welcome . I can tell you that it is very flexible but can kink or reduce in id if you make fairly sharp bends with it . It is also not reinforced with webbing . They put ribs on it to reduce kinking instead . Now, I had some time this morning so I looked up the real deal SAE rated overflow tube made by Gates . This is NOT vacuum tube or windshield washer tube or fuel line . It is the real deal overflow tube currently used by many auto mfg's and is the most kink resistant overflow tubing made . It is made by Gates which is one of the largest mfg's of vehicle belts, hoses and fuel line etc . The others are Goodyear and Dayco.

Below is their catalog . I will post the part numbers and sizes that are available later . They make it in Metric and US standard sizes . Some auto shops like Oreilly, Autozone, Pep Boys, Checker Auto or NAPA should be able to get it.

https://www.gates.com/~/media/files/gates/industrial/fluid-power/catalogs/engine-hose-brochure_final-low-res.pdf


Real carburetor overflow tubing is also available if you can't get the Honda stuff or if it is extremely pricey, however, I can't look that up until later today or tomorrow . Gates may even make it in the size you need so you can look in the link I posted . I used to get it from Mcfaddendale Hardware in So California when I may or may not have lived there. :lol:


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

[yaegerb]

Any updates on this beast? .... paging Onetrackmind.....

[Onetrackmind]

Hahaha...Unfortunately, not much to add right now. I have been out of town for work more than I have been home! Add in father/husband duties and that has left me with exactly...no time to work on this thing!

I will have a few days off coming up without many other chores, so I should make some more progress soon. I did get most of the coolant system installed and a few other odds n ends like kicker and shifter. I am actually trying to dye my old rear brake MC hose cover right now. We will see how that goes...

I am still waiting on a dust cover for the lower steering stem bearing. Once that gets here, I can at least get front end on.

If things go my way, it will be a roller very soon with nothing left but a metric sh!t-ton of small stuff to do later ;-)

Stay tuned...


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[Onetrackmind]

My 10 yo old son and I tackled a couple of small items today after finishing up a 2 day lacrosse tournament. His job was to reassemble both foot pegs. I had them powdered and all the hardware re-zinged.

I gave him the parts and an exploded diagram from an online catalogue and said "Have at it!" We quickly realized that the powder had reduced the tolerances too much and I had to some Dremeling, but he got them together in perfect order. ��

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I was also able to get the rear bearing carrier installed along with new pinch bolts, stopper bolt and washer and dust seals. It sure looks purty!

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I'm still waiting on some parts, but I think I might be able to have it back on three wheels in the next few days. I have really been procrastinating on rebuilding the perches, calipers and rear MC...I may just have to rip the bandaid off and knock that out tomorrow.

[yaegerb]

Absolutely killer. I got 10 bucks that says you wince the first mud puddle you hit :)

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks brother! Yeah, it's definitely going to be tough getting it dirty for the first time...

[Onetrackmind]

I've got the rear brake system components rebuilt and the carrier/axle installed, but am having a little issue with the brake torque link. In the pic below, I am having problems with the two torque link seals (#18). I have the ones that I took off, but they are a much larger diameter that the bushing they show to go on. When I cinch down that nut, they squish out. They are disco by Honda, so should I just improvise with something that will fit?
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[yaegerb]

I've got the rear brake system components rebuilt and the carrier/axle installed, but am having a little issue with the brake torque link. In the pic below, I am having problems with the two torque link seals (#18). I have the ones that I took off, but they are a much larger diameter that the bushing they show to go on. When I cinch down that nut, they squish out. They are disco by Honda, so should I just improvise with something that will fit?
235959

So you are saying the OEM's are not working...they are larger than the OD of the bushing shoulder?

[Onetrackmind]

Well, not exactly. I have no way of knowing if what I removed and saved was, in fact, OEM. The ID of the seals measure 19mm and the OD of the bushing shoulder measures 21mm so in theory, they should work just fine. Unfortunately when I put any pressure on them, they sqhish out. They are very soft rubber. There isn't a torque value in the manual for that castle nut...hmm...

Here is something else: If you notice on the Honda parts diagram above, you see that it calls for the seals, bushing, washer, lock washer and then the castle nut and cotter pin. In the pic below (from the Honda shop manual), it doesnt call for the seals at all and it also doesn't call for the lock washer either. This really has me scratching my head. If I delete those three pieces, there is way too much slop.
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[yaegerb]

Well, not exactly. I have no way of knowing if what I removed and saved was, in fact, OEM. The ID of the seals measure 19mm and the OD of the bushing shoulder measures 21mm so in theory, they should work just fine. Unfortunately when I put any pressure on them, they sqhish out. They are very soft rubber. There isn't a torque value in the manual for that castle nut...hmm...

Here is something else: If you notice on the Honda parts diagram above, you see that it calls for the seals, bushing, washer, lock washer and then the castle nut and cotter pin. In the pic below (from the Honda shop manual), it doesnt call for the seals at all and it also doesn't call for the lock washer either. This really has me scratching my head. If I delete those three pieces, there is way too much slop.
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Leave all those pieces in, apply ample bel ray, let 'r squish and move on down the road good sir.

[Red Rider]

Are the other remaining components correct (shouldered washer & shouldered bolt)? If not, that could account for your squishy issue.

[Onetrackmind]

Red
That torque link actually rides on a bolt (with a permanent shoulder) welded to the swinger. I know it's correct and I'm pretty sure that the shouldered bushing is as well.

I am going to try a different setup with hard rubber o-rings and see how it works.


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[Onetrackmind]

Two words that I wish that I had listened to early on in this build... bolt and kit. Man, had I listened I would be so much better off in time and money. Every time I turn around, it seemed as if I was short on the required bolts for a particular part and had to order (I tried to plan ahead for this, but didn't do a good enough job obviously). Oh well... Partzilla has a LOT of my money now.

On the brake torque link, I wound up using an extra brake pedal dust seal on one side and an o-ring on the other. I think it will work great.

Anyway, here is my progress so far...it's starting to look like an R again. Finally!

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I found a tool in the plumbing section of Home Depot that worked great (minor mods) as a spanner wrench for the steering stem nut ($7):
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Front end going on

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Powdered OEM grab bar and nice '85 tool box (w all tools including spanner). I added the 350x stays for extra lateral support.236272236273

Nice powder work on the throttle cover
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Had the OEM sprocket that I got from yaegerb replated...looks sharp. Rear brakes finally finished.
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I'm really digging the new Cheetahs. Was going to try and use the Ohtsus that I got, but the front was awful. Besides...this bike deserves new shoes!
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Hopefully I will have a little time next week and can get back into the garage...I'm ready to ride this beast!

[yaegerb]

Wow, looking sharp man. Finish line is near!

[Onetrackmind]

Finally finished. I think it turned out pretty well.
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[yaegerb]

Finally finished. I think it turned out pretty well.
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That turned out excellent! Nice job man!

[Onetrackmind]

It makes me want to cry ........ what a nice job are you gonna use it or just look at it ? ....i love it !

Thanks glamy. Honestly, now that it's finished...I just don't know. I always thought that I would just "reset it's clock" to 1985 and use it like I would have thirty-one years ago, but seeing it like this has me wanting to keep it this way forever.

I'm trying to find a way to convince the wife that it would look great as a piece of art in the living room. Or maybe as one of those cool pool-hall type lights above our game room pool table. Would look pretty sweet with LED accents![emoji106]

I have a busy couple of weeks with work, so I will do some soul searching about it while away.


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[Onetrackmind]

That turned out excellent! Nice job man!

Thanks brother! It wouldn't have happened without your help ...[emoji482]

I took it for a quick spin around the block after I did some slow jet tuning and DAM what a difference! I didn't even get it off the needle and it was wanting to put the front tire in the air!

The curiosity of what it can do pegged out may just tip the scale in favor of flogging her just like Honda intended.


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[Aulbaugh]

Looks real good! The before and after pictures are great!

[Onetrackmind]

Thank you sir!

I really was kinda like a "General Contractor" on this build when it comes right down to it though. I stripped it down and sent 75% of the pieces to various pros to be refinished, rebuilt or replated then all I had to do was bolt it all back together! [emoji106]

Many thanks to those that helped along the way. [emoji482][emoji482][emoji482]


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[ATCeeya]

This was a great thread. You did an awesome job. If I ever get around to restoring one of my trikes I will do it "general contractor" style just like you did! I'm sure you have a lot of time and effort invested into this build even with the help of others. Some ppl are really good at what they do and sometimes it's best for you to let them help! Plus I'm sure they enjoy taking part in a nice rebuild as well. Well done sir!

[Onetrackmind]

Thank you sir! I still find myself staring at it and saying "damn you're hot!" Is that weird? Lol...


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[Onetrackmind]

I wish we had dunes closer, but Little Sahara is 5.5 hrs north and Monahans is 6.5 hrs west... oh well.

Yeah, I'm sure the R feels used and a little demeaned.


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[Onetrackmind]

So...8 months later and I'm still having front brake woes. The only issue I have had with this trike is soft front brakes. The caliper has been rebuilt and the master as well (twice). And when I say "soft" brakes, I mean about 50% and I can pull the lever to the grip. SOME resistance, but not NEAR enough.

I have reached the end of the internet searching and reading brake bleeding threads and have tried every single technique that I have found.

So far I have manually bled through the bleeder. Bled the top banjo, bottom banjo, then the bleeder (yep...the bleeder threads wrapped in teflon). I have gravity bled and even reverse bled. Tried taking the caliper off the rotor and slowly turning it (maybe a bubble behind the upper piston) while reverse bleeding. I've worked the lever while turning the bars stop-to-stop and even left the bars on each stop for hours at a time hoping for bubbles to rise. Oh...and vacuum bled multiple containers of DOT-4 with the Mi-T vac.

I'm at my wits end and even enlisted the advice of some very seasoned veterans in the trike world and am literally stumped.

The only variable that I haven't addressed is the brake line. I bought a reproduction OEM line off eBay which looks dead-nuts on, but I have no idea how well it functions.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ATC-250R-REPRO-FRONT-BRAKE-HOSE-NEW-NOS-MINT-/292186713496?hash=item4407af6d98:m:mVc0q9TqgOVne-X9X9t1pCA
The only reason that I am questioning it is that I haven't read any reviews on it and the fact that there is quite a bit of expansion in the line under pressure. All along the line, I can feel feel a considerable amount of expansion with the lever pulled and it even contracts in length.

Before I pull the line off and try something else, does anyone have any insight into what I might be missing or even about this brake line that I have installed?

Thanks fellas...if I had any hair left, I would have pulled it all out by now!




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[Shawn Powell]

So...8 months later and I'm still having front brake woes. The only issue I have had with this trike is soft front brakes. The caliper has been rebuilt and the master as well (twice). And when I say "soft" brakes, I mean about 50% and I can pull the lever to the grip. SOME resistance, but not NEAR enough.

I have reached the end of the internet searching and reading brake bleeding threads and have tried every single technique that I have found.

So far I have manually bled through the bleeder. Bled the top banjo, bottom banjo, then the bleeder. I have gravity bled and even reverse bled. Tried taking the caliper off the rotor and slowly turning it (maybe a bubble behind the upper piston) while reverse bleeding. I've worked the lever while turning the bars stop-to-stop and even left the bars on each stop for hours at a time hoping for bubbles to rise. Oh...and vacuum bled multiple containers of DOT-4 with the Mi-T vac.

I'm at my wits end and even enlisted the advice of some very seasoned veterans in the trike world and am literally stumped.

The only variable that I haven't addressed is the brake line. I bought a reproduction OEM line off eBay which looks dead-nuts on, but I have no idea how well it functions.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ATC-250R-REPRO-FRONT-BRAKE-HOSE-NEW-NOS-MINT-/292186713496?hash=item4407af6d98:m:mVc0q9TqgOVne-X9X9t1pCA
The only reason that I am questioning it is that I haven't read any reviews on it and the fact that there is quite a bit of expansion in the line under pressure. All along the line, I can feel feel a considerable amount of expansion with the lever pulled and it even contracts in length.

Before I pull the line off and try something else, does anyone have any insight into what I might be missing or even about this brake line that I have installed?

Thanks fellas...if I had any hair left, I would have pulled it all out by now!




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When I bought my 350x I had a similar issue. I rebuilt the caliper (even though it seemed fine) I replaced the brake lines with HEL plastic coated stainless steel lines and bled bled bled. I ended up replacing my master cylinder with one from a 400ex( brand new from Honda ) mostly so I could use asv levers, and boom one good bleeding session and rock hard brakes. Very responsive (Tusk sintered pads) and have he'd up very well over two years. Mine is not a restoration though. Forgive me if yours is. Was decently priced brand new and has more pressure than the old units.


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[Onetrackmind]

Thanks Shawn...you brought up another good point. I never spec'ed the bore of my master cylinder. The cups on the piston fit really snug in there, but I may be slightly out of tolerance on the ID of the master bore.

This did turn into a restoration, so I would really like to keep it correct. But if my master itself is bad, I may need to find another alternative.


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[Shawn Powell]

Thanks Shawn...you brought up another good point. I never spec'ed the bore of my master cylinder. The cups on the piston fit really snug in there, but I may be slightly out of tolerance on the ID of the master bore.

This did turn into a restoration, so I would really like to keep it correct. But if my master itself is bad, I may need to find another alternative.


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Yeah that's rough when your doing a full restoration. Good luck.


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[barnett468]

So...8 months later and I'm still having front brake woes. The only issue I have had with this trike is soft front brakes. The caliper has been rebuilt and the master as well (twice). And when I say "soft" brakes, I mean about 50% and I can pull the lever to the grip. SOME resistance, but not NEAR enough.

The only variable that I haven't addressed is the brake line. I bought a reproduction OEM line off eBay which looks dead-nuts on, but I have no idea how well it functions.

The only reason that I am questioning it is that I haven't read any reviews on it and the fact that there is quite a bit of expansion in the line under pressure. All along the line, I can feel feel a considerable amount of expansion with the lever pulled and it even contracts in length.

Get rid of that Chinese piece of crap hose and get a used orig hose or a braided steel one as Shawn Powell mentioned.

If you have silicon brake fluid, get rid of every drop of that crap also.



PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :Bounce

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks Barnett...I have my takeoff original line and will experiment with it later today. If this turns out to be the brake line at fault, I will be pissed (but relieved). Hey...at least I will have honed my brake bleeding skillz to a Ninja-like sharpness. [emoji6]

But in all fairness, I know Mike at Vintage helped develop these hoses and has used them on his restorations (as have several other members). I don't want to throw stones at this product because it could still likely be my ineptitude that is causing this problem.

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[Aulbaugh]

Dang your hose situation makes me alittle nervous as I have one on stock that will be going on in the next couple weeks.

[Onetrackmind]

So did you get it dirty ? .......i knew you couldn't leave it alone !

Ha! Nope...no dirt on it yet. I have ridden it around the hood and taken it out to the farm for some break-in rides, but only on dry days.[emoji16]

Honestly, every time I want to ride it...I think about the fact that I still haven't solved the front brake problem. But no more...

After months of head scratching and brake bleeding...and I mean every dam method of brake bleeding known to man (and a few that only aliens know about). Then rebuilding brake components and then rebuilding them again cuz...hey, rebuild kits are free and grow on trees in Texas. Finally! Finally, I narrowed down my problem.

The hose.

The awesome looking, dead-nuts on, perfect copy of the OEM hose that looks perfect on the trike and really makes for the legit OEM build look hose...doesn't work. [emoji31]

I pulled it off and put back on my beat-up, nasty, with the burnt marshmallow looking silicon banjo-to-hose joint thingy and did one reverse bleed to a full reservoir. And BAM!!! First. Freakin'. Pull of the lever, I had rock hard front brakes. And I mean perfect. Not one extra bit of bleeding required...didn't even look at the Mi-T vac.

So...like I thought I would be...I'm relieved that I don't have one of those Gremlins that I wind up chasing forever anymore, but I'm a bit miffed too. I love the look of this hose...it really looks perfect. Unfortunately, it just doesn't perform.

Hopefully, I just got a bad one and everyone else that has or will use them doesn't have the headache that I have dealt with for months. I am going to contact the seller and see what he has to say. Maybe I will try another one from a different batch...maybe not. I might just try to have a local hydraulic hose company make me a new one and cannibalize this one of it's pretty, new silicon thingy and all the rubber and clear plastic protectors.

I will report back later, but for now...I'm just ecstatic to have operational brakes again! [emoji482]



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[barnett468]

After months of head scratching and brake bleeding...and I mean every dam method of brake bleeding known to man (and a few that only aliens know about). Then rebuilding brake components and then rebuilding them again cuz...hey, rebuild kits are free and grow on trees in Texas. Finally! Finally, I narrowed down my problem. The hose.

The awesome looking, dead-nuts on, perfect copy of the OEM hose that looks perfect on the trike and really makes for the legit OEM build look hose...doesn't work.

I told you the problem was the hose after you told us what it was doing under pressure. Every one of those cheap pos chinese hoses just like yours will in fact do the same thing.



PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :lol:

[Onetrackmind]

Barnett, I really do appreciate your insight and I'm going to try real hard not to be a dik here.

Nobody likes an "I told you so"...nobody. I understand that you did in fact peg this one...but so did I. I narrowed down the search and isolated my problem to really only ONE variable.

Again, thank you for you input. You really do have a lot to add on this forum and I get a lot out of it, but please try not to rub people's noses in their mess.


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[barnett468]

Barnett, I really do appreciate your insight and I'm going to try real hard not to be a dik here.

Nobody likes an "I told you so"...nobody. I understand that you did in fact peg this one...but so did I. I narrowed down the search and isolated my problem to really only ONE variable.

Again, thank you for you input. You really do have a lot to add on this forum and I get a lot out of it, but please try not to rub people's noses in their mess.

"Rubbing your face in it" wasn't my intention, but if you determined that it was the brake line all on your own as it could read to some like you were implying, you would not have asked if it might have been the cause. My main intention was to try and eliminate any question that you might have just gotten "a bad one" as you considered which suggests that all the others are probably ok. They are definitely not. It does not work that way, and since it is potential safety issue, I didn't want people reading your comment below and buying these hoses thinking theirs will be just fine because they will not. There may be a slight difference in crappiness from one batch to another partially based on what recycled cheap ass plastic crap they decide to use in it to save a couple yen or so, however, that's like saying this piece of crap smell less than that piece of crap, because in the end they are both pieces of crap.



Hopefully, I just got a bad one and everyone else that has or will use them doesn't have the headache that I have dealt with for months.



PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :Bounce

[barnett468]

By the way, I forgot to say that yes, you of course were the one that noticed the hose was swelling which is something a lot of people wouldn't have thought to check so good thinking on your part and I also forgot to compliment you on the great job you did on your restoration. It looks killer.

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks Barnett...I was tired and pretty pissed off at the situation last night. I took your comments the wrong way and decided to vent a little.

After rereading your post, I can now see that you only meant to help.

I am taking both hoses to a hydraulic shop today to see what we can get made up that will not only look the part, but also WORK.




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[shindig]

That is one nice R...beautiful. Curious, I restored my 86 about 3 years ago, and like you, was more a general contractor. Did you find NOS fenders for it or are they restored? I am running Maiers, just can't find any NOS ones around. I don't seem to have the connections or pure luck when finding them...lol

Pic of mine:
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[Onetrackmind]

Nice rides Shindig! The R and X really compliment each other.

I got lucky and found my rear fenders on CL. They are "1985 Replacement" fenders, so they have the embossed warning label and the tire pressure sticker on the upper left side. They were listed in Houston (5.5hr drive) for $150 and seller was nice enough to meet me somewhere closer. It was a score as they are near perfect and that is what cemented the idea of restoring this R.


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[Onetrackmind]

Today was a good day. I found a hydraulic shop near my plater and took both my original front hose and the "replacement OEM" hose from eBay for them to use to make a new one.

They only had 8mm banjos (instead of 10mm like what I needed) in stainless in stock...oh well. I had to go by the plater anyway, so I took the banjos and had him do a quick black zinc on them. Usually his black is the perfect OD green, but not today...oh well again. Two crush washers made up the difference.

Three hours later, I had the banjos and freshly coated oil bolts and headed back to the hydraulic shop. They cut me a new hose out of black stainless line using my OEM as a template and robbed all of the sheathing an silicon marshmallow off of the junk eBay hose to dress it up.

Ten minutes later (no kidding...this place is obviously called Hose-Fast for a reason), I was walking out with my new brake hose. It has all the exterior goodies of the "OEM-replacement" hose from eBay, but inside it's a modern stainless braided line. Best of both worlds.

I used the OEM as the template (eBay replacement was about 1.5" longer) and I feel it's a bit short. An extra 1/2" would be perfect...oh well.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/5775e962bc6b74995f9df3027d11a84b.jpg

This line is awesome! One quick reverse bleed and it's tight as a drum! It only takes about an inch of lever travel to be locked up solid...fantastic!

Anyway, for those of you having the same woes as me with the eBay "OEM REPLACEMENT" hose...you can upgrade to an identical copy (that works) for an extra $38.00 from your local hydraulic shop.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/624069682a11e71150799f851654caaa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/23c0a9eda1b2ec0e9be0d3876ea19189.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/87a5d9aedf0eded571382407cd0eb523.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/52df02286a505bea41151d348d6547f0.jpg


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[Aulbaugh]

Looks dam good Cody! After reading and hearing your story I'm skeptical on mine working flawlessly. Now thinking about it I should have reached out and asked about the hose to see if anyone had any feedback on them before buying. Glad to see there is a fix if mine goes south! Thanks for sharing.

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks John, it was a lot of fun (but I did have a lot of help and advice).

Hopefully, you have better luck with your hose than I did. If you search "Reproduction Hose (or Line)", you will find quite a bit of feedback on them and most of it is good. I think Paul (manbearpig) commented unfavorably a few years ago and only one or two other people had negative things to say.

[82 250r]

That burnt marshmallow can clean up and look new. I think i just used dawn dish soap and a toothbrush.