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View Full Version : Oil Filter Cover 1986 Honda 250SX



sweetip2000
03-19-2016, 10:46 PM
I stripped the very top bolt when doing an oil change today. It was the top bolt that got effed up. Put it back together and it holds oil with no leaks with motor running for about 5 minutes. So should I leave it alone or should I re tap ? I have never re tapped and was wondering what bolt size I need to use. Any kit to recommend ?

arlaunch
03-19-2016, 10:52 PM
IMHO it would depend on if i went on very long trips or just putted around the farm.

For a fella going out into the world, it may be worth a proper fix?

atcmatt
03-20-2016, 12:48 AM
Fix it with a heli-coil. Easy to do and works a treat!

sweetip2000
03-20-2016, 03:55 PM
Can I get that locally or do I have to buy on the www ?

350for350
03-20-2016, 07:06 PM
You should be able to go into any parts store worth it's salt and pick one up. Just take your bolt with you to make sure you get the right size. It's been a while, but from what I remember, it's kind of expensive to buy the first time. You get a kit with the right size drill bit, a tap and several inserts. All of the inserts are the same size, but you can do several repairs and then I think you can just buy more inserts when you run out. They are really easy to install. As for tapping and using a larger bolt, is there enough room in the hole in the cover to put a larger bolt in? With a Heli-coil, you will have the same size bolt back in there.

86125m
03-20-2016, 09:33 PM
like every one else say the repair can be done a few ways. The easiest way is to just find a bolt that is slightly larger and most of the time that bolt will tighten up.

dougspcs
03-20-2016, 09:49 PM
Just remember, you'll want to remove that bolt again..do a butcher job or just jam a bigger bolt in and it'll come back on you the next filter change.

Dirtcrasher
03-20-2016, 09:51 PM
Cheaper on EBAY or Amazon. Should be a 6mm x 1.0 thread. The length? That may be the bolt that goes all the way to the center case, that would require removing that whole clutch/shift cover. It may not be that one, I haven't dived into a 250SX in awhile....

How long is the hex head bolt under the head?? Inches is fine, gives me a rough Idea.

Remember how I met you?? With a stripped oil drain plug?? STOP DOING THAT ANDY!!!!!

wonderboy
03-20-2016, 09:54 PM
Get an M6x1.0 thread repair kit. That is: 6mm bolt, 1.0 mm thread pitch. It is used all over that motor. Heli-coil is the big brand name, but is a little pricier. Most auto parts stores will have the same type of kit but under a different brand name.

The process is really easy. You use the proper size drill (the M6x1.0 Helicoils use a 1/4" drill if I remember right) and drill out the old threads (what is left of them). Use the special tap to put new oversize threads, and then screw the insert in to restore the original size threads.

The nice side benefit is that you now have steel on steel contact for the bolt. It will last forever now, as long as you don't over torque.

A quick note about torque: Most of the bolts on your motor cases (all the M6 bolts with 8mm or 10mm heads) do not require a lot of torque. Most people WAY over torque these bolts which is why yours (most likely) stripped out. It wasn't necessarily you, but repeated disassembly / reassembly combined with higher than required torque begins to pull the threads out of the aluminum. Finally, on the last assembly, the threads just won't hold and it strips. The book calls out 6-9 foot-lbs. That's not much. Use a 1/4 ratchet with your hand on the pivot (not at the end of the handle) and tighten that way to help prevent over tightening.

sweetip2000
03-22-2016, 12:30 AM
Cheaper on EBAY or Amazon. Should be a 6mm x 1.0 thread. The length? That may be the bolt that goes all the way to the center case, that would require removing that whole clutch/shift cover. It may not be that one, I haven't dived into a 250SX in awhile....

How long is the hex head bolt under the head?? Inches is fine, gives me a rough Idea.

Remember how I met you?? With a stripped oil drain plug?? STOP DOING THAT ANDY!!!!!

LoL yeah and just think all I had to do was keep that 250SX and life would have been so simple....
I will measure up the bolt. I don't think it goes all the way to the other side of the case
Will post it tommorow to this thread.... great replies here.....

loganm
03-22-2016, 12:34 AM
How stripped is it? Can you torque it at all? The threads for the stator bolts on my airfooled were stripped when I got it, GENEROUS red loctite coupled with removing it and installing it a few times and now the bolts will torque up to what they should be. It's probably not the best for a critical engine part (ignition timing) but it should work for your filter cover.

Edit: A milwaukee 3/8" drive lithium ion impact on the lowest setting will torque these bolts to just about the proper spec (6-9 ft lbs as mentioned above). Makes disassembly and reassembly of the engine and other stuff soo much quicker. On a normal 3/8" drive impact, with a ~6" handle, just imagine putting a 12-18 lb weight on the end of the handle. IMO better to err on the side of caution and torque lighter, I usually use loctite anyways.

sweetip2000
03-22-2016, 12:35 AM
Get an M6x1.0 thread repair kit. That is: 6mm bolt, 1.0 mm thread pitch. It is used all over that motor. Heli-coil is the big brand name, but is a little pricier. Most auto parts stores will have the same type of kit but under a different brand name.

The process is really easy. You use the proper size drill (the M6x1.0 Helicoils use a 1/4" drill if I remember right) and drill out the old threads (what is left of them). Use the special tap to put new oversize threads, and then screw the insert in to restore the original size threads.

The nice side benefit is that you now have steel on steel contact for the bolt. It will last forever now, as long as you don't over torque.

A quick note about torque: Most of the bolts on your motor cases (all the M6 bolts with 8mm or 10mm heads) do not require a lot of torque. Most people WAY over torque these bolts which is why yours (most likely) stripped out. It wasn't necessarily you, but repeated disassembly / reassembly combined with higher than required torque begins to pull the threads out of the aluminum. Finally, on the last assembly, the threads just won't hold and it strips. The book calls out 6-9 foot-lbs. That's not much. Use a 1/4 ratchet with your hand on the pivot (not at the end of the handle) and tighten that way to help prevent over tightening.


Yup the owner before me was a harley guy. I saw that one of those 3 bolts was different so he effed one up before I got the bike. Not flaming the guy cause I have done some righty tighty lefty loosey F ups in my time... thanks you for the info

sweetip2000
03-22-2016, 12:38 AM
How stripped is it? Can you torque it at all? The threads for the stator bolts on my airfooled were stripped when I got it, GENEROUS red loctite coupled with removing it and installing it a few times and now the bolts will torque up to what they should be. It's probably not the best for a critical engine part (ignition timing) but it should work for your filter cover.

yeah it almost snugs up then spins for now I used a lock washer to get it a little tighter for now until I can tap the hole.

sweetip2000
03-22-2016, 10:35 PM
How long is the hex head bolt under the head?? Inches is fine, gives me a rough Idea.

About 3/4 inch under head of bolt

Dirtcrasher
03-22-2016, 11:08 PM
Okay, your good then. Get the helicoil kit or other thread creator, just pull the oil filter cover off.

Keep everything around you clean, have carb cleaner in hand. Compressed air, but be careful when these little threads are being fixed up, Aluminum will strip easy so aim straight.

Thats what she said......

ps2fixer
03-23-2016, 08:01 PM
Not to go against the grain, but buying a dedicated tools to fix it etc might be more expensive than just replacing the part?

$20 for one in fair shape, bit beat up, but should be good with some parts off your cover and maybe a paint job. It includes the uncommon rubber cover for the clutch adjuster too. - http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-HONDA-ATC-250SX-250-SX-ENGINE-MOTOR-CLUTCH-COVER-RIGHT-SIDE-/331802036054?hash=item4d40f14756:g:fykAAOSwpDdVXAc c&vxp=mtr

$36 for one in better shape - http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-ATC250SX-Honda-ATC-250SX-right-engine-clutch-cover-/380548612263?hash=item589a7700a7:m:mg3b9e2dVdR3Gjl 3THbWlPQ&vxp=mtr

Part is simple enough to swap out, down side is you'd have to drain the oil again.

Of course if you have the tools etc to fix it, it would probably be quicker to drill and tap it one size larger or throw in the helicoil. Don't forget the oil cover will need to be drilled too if you go with the larger bolt. I personally wouldn't take it on longer trips with the potential oil leak on hand. If you keep a good eye on it you could do well w\o fixing it, but it would probably catch you off guard when it would decide to leak and run the engine low on oil.

wonderboy
03-23-2016, 09:40 PM
The M6x1.0 helicoil kit is indispensable to me. Those threads are everywhere on these motors. The kit ($31.95 at Advance Auto) will give you enough inserts to fix a dozen holes. The tap will pretty much last forever (in aluminum) and extra inserts are pretty cheap. For the price of that one side cover, you'll be able to fix many more stripped threads to a state better than new... and chances are high that after a few times apart and back together, the bolts will strip on that replacement cover. Can you tell I'm a fan of Heli-coils? :)