Good setup for bad back and sore arm

[hawaiirider]

Once was posting vids of big air on trikes on this site, now posting about setups for a bad back....
At 34 my disability from the military has caught up to me, to the point where I don't even consider big jumps at all anymore..
I have a bad back (broke it..) and disabled left arm. I gave up my 250r and 200x to rid the clutch as it flat out isn't easy after a while to pull..
I also went for e start on my new build to avoid kicking or pulling and reverse to avoid pushing it.
My zuki tri runner 160 (was a lt160 quadrunner) has a stock rear shock and 200x forks.
is there a good long travel shock for a smooth plush ride out there? I could really use it these days. any other setups for ride comfort would be cool too.
thanks

[Dirtweed]

Busted up at 34? Best take care for when you are older like me. I feel like crap when the weather blows in
and I didn't have anything happen to me at all. If I were in your place I'd be on a Rancher 420 with IRS, Power Steering
and a cooler on the back rack. :D

I'm sure the guys will have a better trike related solution for ya.

[350xtrike.rider]

Get a 250sx. With e start and reverse where could ya go wrong

[hawaiirider]

Yea im not into 2 stroke trikes anymore just because they are demanding physically. I had a 250sx and sold it because I broke the shaft/swingarm bolt jumping it... the trike I built suits me great, its sporty, very light, auto clutch, reverse, e start. just need to dial in this rear shock, the stock one is a rough ride 3 inch travel at best! the front 200x shocks are great tho.

[Jmoozy27]

What is the shock mounting like? What is the eye to eye length?

[oldskool83]

dood just buy an fully auto atv....you need to accept your messed up and if you want to play you give some stuff up...not a real big deal. 250SX barely has suspension as is.

[hawaiirider]

dood just buy an fully auto atv....you need to accept your messed up and if you want to play you give some stuff up...not a real big deal. 250SX barely has suspension as is.

4 wheeler ?hell no, im not gay!! ^ I can still ride a trike great just looking out for my back is all.

[oldskool83]

Why did owning a 4wheeler say Hey I take it up the butt...There are no comfortable 3wheelers when you have body issues. One thing you could do if your so concerned with being gay is spend some money and get a shock built up correctly for soft conditions...not rocket science but that may be too lesbian.

Sheesh....and I thought most banshee owners were freaking bull headed.

[hawaiirider]

I used to own a banshee so maybe it stuck w me lol, do you know a good shock builder? I pm'd onformula1 waiting to hear back if he can build me one.

was just saying don't like quads, im a trike guy to the end

[oldskool83]

he can rebuild them, SRS on ebay can do them. For vintage stuff they are prob the best two people. Might spend what your bike is worth however since most people are cheap in the wrong areas.

[hawaiirider]

he can rebuild them, SRS on ebay can do them. For vintage stuff they are prob the best two people. Might spend what your bike is worth however since most people are cheap in the wrong areas.

thanks for the info, its worth the $ in my opinion to keep me ridn a trike not ridn the couch

[barnett468]

.

...take it up the butt.


hell no, im not gay!!


...freaking bull headed.


...lesbian.


What the hell?

http://www.picgifs.com/graphics/l/laughing/graphics-laughing-867787.gif

[hawaiirider]

lmao!!^^ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[barnett468]

.
You need to determine what angle you want the bike to be at when you ride it because to get more travel, you will likely need to raise the back of the bike . . The higher the rear, the quicker the steering will be and more unstable the steering will be at high rpm . . Also, the more tippy" the bike will be.

The following is one way to take the required measurements.

1. After determine the height you want the back of the bike, put a felt pen mark on top of the rear axle housing and another one on the bottom side of the fender directly above the one on the axle . . Sit on the bike and have someone push down on the forks twice then push down on the back twice letting the bike rise up on its own then have them measure the distance between the two felt pen marks and the the distance from the centers of the shock mounting bolts.

2. Remove the shock spring then let the bike down then have someone sit on it then carefully measure the distance from the centers both shock mounting bolts . . If no one can help you, put a tie down on the rear to compress it as much as possible . . This will reasonably simulate bottoming the suspension . . Next, measure the distance from the top of the tire to the underside of the fender where the tires would hit them if the suspension traveled far enough . . Also make sure nothing is hitting . . I would run as close to 5/8" as possible . . If you have around 1" or more, and all the other parts have a little clearance, you can possibly run a shock with a slightly shorter body to increase the amount of downward travel, but keep in mind that increasing downward travel will also cause the frame and footpegs to be closer to the ground at full compression.

3. If you want it to compress farther, place some wood under the frame until the clearance between the tires and fender is around 5/8" then measure the distance between the center of both hock mounting holes Under actual riding conditions, parts may if you land hard causing the fenders to hit the tops of the tires lightly which is why the clearance should not be much less than 5/8".

4. Next, put a 2x4 on a floor jack then raise the back until it is 3" higher than the ride height you wanted and measure the distance from the center of both shock mounting holes . . You can actually measure from the top or bottom of both holes for this measurement.

You will now have every shock length measurement you need to get you the optimum amount of travel.

You may not be able to increase both the downward and upward travel . . That all depends upon the design of your suspension and measurements of your current shock which is where the biggest problem lies because there might not be an existing shock body the length you need to do this with and a fully custom made shock may cost more than a nice 86...TECATE...The Most Powerful 3 Wheeler In The Universe.


GUARANTEE

It is unlikely that a custom or modified stock shock from ANYONE will be set up absolutely perfectly the first time out for your particular app, therefore I would ask whomever you get one from if they will guarantee to respring and/or revalve it for free or for a small fixed fee if it is not perfect and GET IT IN WRITING, because you are relying on their skill and knowledge to get it right and you shouldn't have to pay big bucks for a custom shock if it doesn't work properly . . Works Performance used to revalve and/or respring their shocks for free one time if needed but I don't know if they still offer this service . . I'm pretty sure they will also build you a full on custom one, and since they make their own shock parts, they may have a combo that will be the correct dimensions, and if so, it wont cost much, if any more than one of their production shocks of the same type.

http://www.worksperformance.com/


ADJUSTABLE DAMPING

imo, in your case, a shock with separate compression and rebound damping will be the best and it may provide enough range of adjustment to get it where you want if the valving isn't good enough with the settings in the middle position.

.

[ps2fixer]

Not to suggest antoher 4 wheeler... but there are a lot of advancements in ride quality on the 4 wheeled bothers of the 3 wheerls.... 680 rincon is a very nice ride, fully automatic, fast, handles trails well, and small jumps. It is heavy.... but feels controllable.

If you are a bit more extreme rider still... you could go for a can-am, much much more power, light weight, infact power to weight ratio makes it feel about the same as my 350x except it gets to 72mph before I can top out around 60ish (wet dirt road), steering is nearly as nimble feeling and it is 4x4! Yes.. it does have that 4 wheeled feeling, but the least about of the quads I have rode.

If you are sticking with a 3 wheeler, I'd say you have some custom fab work to do... pretty sure the 85-86 250r's had the best ride factory, and next 85 - 86 350x? I'd say take one of them machines and find a suitable chain drive engine that has an auto clutch. The 200s in a 200x frame is about the same mod that is easier, but lacks power from my understanding.

I don't really have experience building my own suspension, so I can't offer advice there, but barnett will be spot on :).

[Jmoozy27]

Sounds like someone desires the riding comfort of the super x. E start, reverse, 5 speeds, back up recoil, and a solid suspension. Mine jumps, trails, climbs and has enough azz to get up and go to the mid to high 40's if need be. Fairly easy motor swap if you can find one.

[hawaiirider]

Sounds like someone desires the riding comfort of the super x. E start, reverse, 5 speeds, back up recoil, and a solid suspension. Mine jumps, trails, climbs and has enough azz to get up and go to the mid to high 40's if need be. Fairly easy motor swap if you can find one.

my ride and yours sound near identical except mines a zuki.
im going to call the places yall pointed out to see what they can do with my shock to make it ride cushy.

[barnett468]

im going to call the places yall pointed out to see what they can do with my shock to make it ride cushy.

Making your existing shock ride "cushy" is a piece of cake, but the spine compressing impact you will get after all of it's 3" of travel is used up and it bottoms out may be counterproductive to your goal.

From what you have described so far, you need to increase the travel to make much improvement unless you plan to just ride it in the yard.

Since you want to check different places out, you can also call Race Tech to see what they say, but definitely call more than one place irregardless of what that one place is . . This way you may get a wider variety of suggestions which can only help you make a more informed decision.

Also, ask about everyone's turn around times if you want it back quickly . . Race Tech is often just a 4 day turn around and only costs around $100.00 in labor to disassemble and reassemble a shock . . Valving and parts are additional . . Works Performance does not work on shocks other than their own.

http://www.racetech.com/

.

[Jmoozy27]

How big is the shock eye to eye? Does it mount straight to the swinger? Dogbone? Maybe post a pic. I searched far and wide for a more comfortable shock for a few different trikes. I might be able to help.

[hawaiirider]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-LT160-LT-160-1993-Quad-Runner-rear-back-shock-strut-/141433796501?hash=item20ee1c7795:g:VNgAAOSwxH1ULX3 9&vxp=mtr

heres the exact shock on the bike, offers maybe 3 in travel at best. preload is adjustable that's it, what you said is correct if cushy it goes through its travel and is harsh bottoming out.
I contacted works suspension they can build me one for $360 with any travel I desire.

[oldskool83]

Put a 250X front shock on. They are 12.75 or 13" eye to eye and have about 7" of travel. Prob will be a bolt on.

Works shocks gives eye to eye lengths for every shock made per bike...live by it. I do so know I know what shocks to swap out for others.

[oldskool83]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-HONDA-TRX250X-TRX-250X-ATV-Front-Shock-Absorbers-092320-10507-/231824991922?hash=item35f9d8a6b2:g:40oAAOSwX~dWpWG I&vxp=mtr buy and try. At most you will have to machine down the shock heads or add washers. also take out the plastic retainers...they just hold dirt and look better with out them....see 300ex shock on a 250ex which was a massive upgrade.

[hawaiirider]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-300ex-Front-Shock-/151959533974?hash=item23617e7996:g:DXUAAOSwqrtWorw W&vxp=mtr

how about this one?

[oldskool83]

They are all the same...but needing bottom bussing you cant really replace. You need to machine them out and put in delrin bushing then they last forever.

[DohcBikes]

I contacted works suspension they can build me one for $360 with any travel I desire.Boom there you go, end of thread.

[barnett468]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-LT160-LT-160-1993-Quad-Runner-rear-back-shock-strut-/141433796501?hash=item20ee1c7795:g:VNgAAOSwxH1ULX3 9&vxp=mtr

heres the exact shock on the bike, offers maybe 3 in travel at best. preload is adjustable that's it, what you said is correct if cushy it goes through its travel and is harsh bottoming out.
I contacted works suspension they can build me one for $360 with any travel I desire.

I'm glad my suggestion was helpful, imo, that's a f'n smokin deal these days . . I was actually sponsored by them when I "un-retired" and started racing vintage motocross . I built and raced a 1974 "Works" CR125 and CR250 both with Mossbarger reed valves and a 1974 YZ250 and a 1974.5 Adolph Weil 450 Maico and had Works Performance shocks on all of them . . I did have to send one pair back to get them revalved which was no surprise to me since I design suspensions and know how difficult it can be to get it right the first time out, but their shocks worked well enough that I won the AHRMA over 40 Pro class and the Open Pro class and got 4th or 5th in the 250 Pro class and 3rd in the 125 Pro class against lots of "youngsters", so I was definitely sold on their quality and performance.

They still need the measurements I suggested you take, and ask them what their revalve and re-spring policy is if the shock does not work exactly how you want it to the first time out.

Also, keep in mind that they can make one with adjustable damping . . My guess is that for $360.00, the one they mentioned won't have it.
.

[hawaiirider]

I'm glad my suggestion was helpful, imo, that's a f'n smokin deal these days . . I was actually sponsored by them when I "un-retired" and started racing vintage motocross . I built and raced a 1974 "Works" CR125 and CR250 both with Mossbarger reed valves and a 1974 YZ250 and a 1974.5 Adolph Weil 450 Maico and had Works Performance shocks on all of them . . I did have to send one pair back to get them revalved which was no surprise to me since I design suspensions and know how difficult it can be to get it right the first time out, but their shocks worked well enough that I won the AHRMA over 40 Pro class and the Open Pro class and got 4th or 5th in the 250 Pro class and 3rd in the 125 Pro class against lots of "youngsters", so I was definitely sold on their quality and performance.

They still need the measurements I suggested you take, and ask them what their revalve and re-spring policy is if the shock does not work exactly how you want it to the first time out.

Also, keep in mind that they can make one with adjustable damping . . My guess is that for $360.00, the one they mentioned won't have it.
.


they asked I send my old shock in, the 300/250x shock sure is ALOT cheaper that oldskool suggested has me at a crossroads kind of...

[oldskool83]

spend less to try it....if you like the 300ex shock then go off that. You can always resell a 300ex shock...you cant resell a lt160 shock...you cant even give them away lol

[cr480r]

The truth is you won't gain much travel without altering the mounts. A shock with more stroke will be longer eye to eye. So if you are wanting to keep the ride height and up-travel similar you will need to customize. With a short swingarm there is only so much available between tire rub and scrubbing the chain slider off... Short swingarms are also more likely to throw chains with a lot of travel so be sure to keep track of the chain tension when you mock it up. I personally would not spend $360 just to end up with another 3" travel shock with no external adjustment.

[barnett468]

they asked I send my old shock in, the 300/250x shock sure is ALOT cheaper that oldskool suggested has me at a crossroads kind of...

It doesn't matter what they asked for, you still MUST do the measurements I suggested if you want to get the most amount of travel and benefit from a shock . . There is absolutely, positively, no other way in the world to go about achieving that result . . I know this for a fact because as I mentioned, I designed suspensions . . If you do not do the measurements I suggested, I see little point in spending $360.00 on custom shock.

Also, there is no possible way in hell that you will be able to find ANY production shock that will do just what you want it to, because it sounds to me that due to the severity of your condition and high potential of making it worse, a shock that is "close" just won't be good enough in your particular case, therefore, you will likely need to send any used production shock you buy to someone to have it modified if you want it "perfect, and this will cost you maybe $100.00 or more for basic disassembly and reassembly only, plus maybe $50.00 to revalve it, plus maybe $15.00 for oil, plus maybe $100.00 or more for a spring etc which in my book adds up to around $265.00 and that does NOT include the cost of the shock.

Of course, if you want to spend maybe $50.00 on a worn out used shock from another bike or even a new Chinese one etc, it will not be a huge loss if it doesn't wok out, however, based on the severity of your condition, if it was me, I wouldn't do that unless I was on Welfare and didn't hardly have a pot to piss in, in which case I would spend the money on some booze instead so I could drown my sorrows, however, unless this your situation, I would instead buy a brand spanking new shock that uses progressive 3 stage check ball type valving that is 100% totally custom made for your particular bike and your weight and intended purpose, PLUS, they will give you cool decals like the ones below.

Also, you already spent maybe $100.00 for a spring for this that you can't return that was supposed to be softer but ended up being firmer . . Just how much time and money do you want to spend dicking around buying random parts that WILL NOT get you the best possible ride.

Will someone pleeease tell me what part of this is illogical.

I will also guarantee you that even if you increased the suspension travel to a whopping 5" inches, it will still bottom fairly harshly if you set it up so it is cushy and hit any jumps or bumps or potholes at even moderate speed, HOWEVER, one trick to reduce this problem is to run an extra long bottoming cushion on the shock shaft . . This will in effect make the suspension a bit more "progressive", and in fact, this is exactly what we had to do on the 84 TECATE...The The Most Powerful 3 Wheeler In the World to reduce its hard bottoming and still retain a somewhat plush ride thru most of the travel . . Works Performance actually has long bottoming cushions and the top of their shock can easily be romoved to change them, therefore, if you get one of their shocks, I would either buy a long bottoming cushion or have them put one on the shock and you can shorten it a little to change the ride a little if needed.

.......................................https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSvgvYZeyxFbs0EeNrmEp09g7B7FAyVf evZKw9hiLqq4Yb2ZEv9Lg

..............................http://cdn3.volusion.com/hnhur.ztsoa/v/vspfiles/photos/FG-815-2.jpg


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[hawaiirider]

Hey i just wanted to say thanks to all yalls comments, there going to help keep me ridn on 3wheels which is my favorite passtime on earth.

[3 Wheel Drive]

It may be time for one of the old man trikes:

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227015&stc=1

[barnett468]

Hey i just wanted to say thanks to all yalls comments, there going to help keep me ridn on 3wheels which is my favorite passtime on earth.

no prob, however, some of us might have made that our second choice after having a cold beer in one hand and hot girl in the other . :Bounce

[hawaiirider]

Ive got the cold beer and hot girl, works shock is on the way, decided to go that route.