Flush front shocks during rebuild

[RUNMEDOWN]

Rebuilding forks, the bushings and scrubbers look good. No prior leaks. I poured out some nasty old fluif fron the fork and reshot the lower tubes. I cleaned the springs and other parts. I was thinking of not tearing down the lower portion since it looks good. I was thinking of flushing out the remaining residue with a little gas in the tube, pump it up and down then dump and repeat a few times, let it sit dry overnight to make sure it is dry then add new fluid and reassemble. Any idea if flushing is good/bad idea?

[barnett468]

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Are your forks assembled or not?

[barnett468]

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Did you paint the lowers?

[Jmoozy27]

I would use diesel or kerosene. You can add the same amount as the oil, assemble with the spring in it and pump it a few times to flush the valves. Rinse and repeat until it come out clean. I have done this a ton of times. What trike is it?

[jays375]

I would suggest a complete tear down to clean throughly.

[onformula1]

You are close to doing it correctly, tear them down and check the piston head bands too.

[86125m]

My point of view on front shocks is if they aint leaking don't tear them apart.

[RUNMEDOWN]

I will try to answer all the above questions:
The forks are off the 200x, lowers are still assembled but they are separate, paint needs to cure for 7 days but can be handed. Since there was no leaks I would prefer not to open the lower but from what I am reading I may end up doing that. This is a weird build. Usually I find an ATC is eithere well cared for and just needs some clean up. Or it is beat to hell and needs everything. This one has fresh gaskets everywhere, but all bearings are shot, new UNI filter but mis-matched bolts everywhere. When I picked it up the bassani pipe was on the 200e I got in the package deal and the 200x had no pipe on it. the PO said he just swapped the exhaust and tires (with hub) to what he wanted to ride that day. It's like he bought a nice 200x secondhand and then just messed it all up with his hijinks.

[Dirtcrasher]

Like Jay said, tear them down. It only costs you 2 seals and 2 wipers.

You'd be surprised how much dirt is in there.

Or, flush them out, fill them up and hope they don't leak. They come out easy enough anyhow.

I have cleaned everything with gas since 30 years ago......

[barnett468]

Rebuilding forks, the bushings and scrubbers look good. No prior leaks. I cleaned the springs and other parts. I was thinking of not tearing down the lower portion since it looks good.

Although I would take them apart if I planed to keep it, there is no good reason to in your case, especially considering the fact that you don't want to . . The worst case scenario is that the seal/ring on the top of the damper rod is excessively worn or broken, and I have seen some broken ones on different forks, however, in my experience, it is extremely rare so the odds are against it.

If that seal is worn or even broken, it will reduce the damping effect a little, however, that can be regained by using slightly thicker oil . . Honda recommends using ATF which is around 7 wt . . The next step up is 10 wt which will increase the firmness of the forks a little and is a good idea if you are a heavier rider and/or ride it hard over rough terrain etc.

Also, if the springs are sagging a little, you can simply cut a piece of pvc pipe slightly smaller than the id of the forks and the length you want, however I would not exceed 1" in length.

That seal is still available at the sites listed below and possibly at others . . It is item 15.

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc200x-1984-usa_model7182/partslist/F++07.html#results

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/ATV/1984/ATC200X+A/FRONT+SHOCK+ABSORBER/parts.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-51437-400-771-RING-PISTON-/281810344150?nma=true&si=7uRH%252FVochgYkbT3IZGqgp9XkuiY%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/ringpiston_medium51437400771-01_fd99.jpg

http://cdn.partzilla.com/diagram/honda/hom/7eac4d82f2389dc6c56b87b88ec1569cb27bd431.png

[RUNMEDOWN]

OK I just opened it up. Not nearly as bad as I thought. All parts look very good. They have been replaced at some point. I will clean everything up and put it back together. Found some progressive rate springs. I have to wait for shipping before I can finish this part. Thanks for all of the advise and the gentle push to do the job right.

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

...and the genital push to do the job right.

:wondering

[RUNMEDOWN]

Yikes. Gentle was the word. Auto correct is not always my friend.

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

Yikes. Gentle was the word. Auto correct is not always my friend.



oh good...I was a little worried there for a moment, and i do believe that the correct term is "Auto Incorrect". http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/Smileys/smilies/thumbsup.gif

[hatc200x1]

Good idea that you tore them down... I have used gas to clean the fork internals on many sets of forks. Works great, wipe off with paper towel, let air dry for a bit longer, then oil up the fork parts with some atf/ fork fluid then assemble with new seals... Good to go for a long time, fork boots will dramatically increase fork oil/ seal lifetime.

[RUNMEDOWN]

OK, I was going to use ATF but have read for big guys (Over 200lbs) to use 20 wt fork oil, I am 265lbs (Dropping about 12 lbs a moth but wont go below 220) should I go 20 wt. or ATF, not jumping, not hard riding (Also would the 1" PVC spacer be a good idea?)

[barnett468]

OK, I was going to use ATF but have read for big guys (Over 200lbs) to use 20 wt fork oil, I am 265lbs (Dropping about 12 lbs a moth but wont go below 220) should I go 20 wt. or ATF, not jumping, not hard riding (Also would the 1" PVC spacer be a good idea?)

Well, I would not use the spacer I suggested with your new springs right away.

Changing the fork oil is easy and not that expensive, so in your case, I definitely would NOT run ATF, and suggest you try 15wt fork oil for casual riding and the 20wt if you plan to beat the crap out of it, then simply change it to your liking from there if need be.

If you like the performance but it bottoms just a little too much for you, I would increase the oil level by 1/2 inch and install a 3/4 to 1 inch long spacer.

[Red Rider]

...and the genital push to do the job right.
:wondering
Mommy, Barnett touched my naughty place! :lol:

[RUNMEDOWN]

Well, I would not use the spacer I suggested with your new springs right away.

Changing the fork oil is easy and not that expensive, so in your case, I definitely would NOT run ATF, and suggest you try 15wt fork oil for casual riding and the 20wt if you plan to beat the crap out of it, then simply change it to your liking from there if need be.

If you like the performance but it bottoms just a little too much for you, I would increase the oil level by 1/2 inch and install a 3/4 to 1 inch long spacer.

Got it, I will try the 15 wt with no spacer to start. I just finished the rear shock, should I redo it with 15 wt as well (It has new ATF in there now)? Or since I can adjust the dampening is it needed?