ATCr125x

[Jmoozy27]

Been gathering parts and ideas on this one for a while. I feel it's now time to reveal my next project.

The Bones:
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222455&stc=1

The Meat:
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222456&stc=1

The Plan:

Build a badazz smoker with an awesome suspension and huge nuts.

[fieldy]

I have always wanted to do that! Since 1986! Think that might be my last project if i am ever fortunate enough to have alot of it done for me. Getting the sprockets to line up seems probably over my head.
I am a good fabricator but getting sprockets in line, doing the reinforcement work and i can't build a pipe...
I bet it will handle the best and BE the ultimate 3 wheeler. Hope to see your project and the creativity and skill it will require, have fun.

[yaegerb]

Nice project. Any questions, ask Mart. Thread to his 125 200x below.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/162380-200x-cr125-hybrid?highlight=175+200x

[onformula1]

Bro, this is soooo cool!

You & Mike (Oscar Mayer) building different styles of the 200X/CR125 conversions is so neat, I know of Mart's build and it is very cool, I guess what I am saying is there is so many ways to build these things and they are all cool and will surprise many 250 trikes with a different style of performance.

I will build one someday after we get both of yours off the ground and screaming, but I may use a motor that has 2 or 3 initials instead just to be a bit different with suspension that many can't spell or pronounce :lol:

[Jmoozy27]

I'm using aircraft stripper to remove the old paint and blind brush primer job that the PO botched. This 200x chassis was traded for a yfm80 that never panned out. It was an absolute mess, I had to save it.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222471&stc=1

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222472&stc=1

[bcredneck]

I have always wanted to do that! Since 1986! Think that might be my last project if i am ever fortunate enough to have alot of it done for me. Getting the sprockets to line up seems probably over my head.
I am a good fabricator but getting sprockets in line, doing the reinforcement work and i can't build a pipe...
I bet it will handle the best and BE the ultimate 3 wheeler. Hope to see your project and the creativity and skill it will require, have fun.

the 200x motor pinion is in the same spot as it would be on a dirtbike since the xr200 uses about the same width wheel as the 125 so its not as hard as it would seem. The best way is to drop the motor in with no mounts and pull the chain over the sprockets and look down the chain like your aiming a gun. motor swaps are fun
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/386039_2631466788869_1141396628_n.jpg?oh=d3e16f63c 01e3196a664193310ba9005&oe=56A258B7

[oscarmayer]

Beck, actually there is .5" difference between the cr125R motor and the 4strokes. The CR sits slightly more left when sitting on the trike. I recommend anyone doing this to get I touch with onformula1 and get him to make reducers for the motor and swinger out of derlyn instead of anything else. Has just enough give to help dampen vibrations but strong enough just to handle the job.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bcredneck]

could you get away with 1/2'' spacers on the rear sprocket

[oscarmayer]

well it is close enough that you just trim that much more off the swinger on the 1 side and let the other side be that much longer is all. pretty EZ
if done right you can use a 350X rear swinger with a trx300EX rear axle and 350X rear hub. that is what I am doing.

oh just realized your using a 2nd gen 200x (86-87)
you should be able to just trim yours up some and be good. it does not have the crappy 1st gen swing arm bolt chain adjuster.

[Ol Deuce]

You have a good start on this project !!! Your first and best thought was to use the '86-'87 x chassis !!! Mart used the first Gen x, I used the 1st gen also! If I had to do it over I would go your route !!!!
Keep us posted !!This is a Great Project !! Ol Deuce

[Jmoozy27]

Thanks for the info guys, I plan on taking my time with this one so it gets done right.

While pulling the rads off of the donor I found that the lower hose was clogged. I'm pretty sure it was an insect nest. Don't know how it got there...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222487&stc=1

This is after I blew the hose out with compressed air...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222488&stc=1

[86125m]

probably dirtdobbers I hate them with a passion they get everywhere no matter how good you seal something up.

[Dirtcrasher]

Do it if you have a good 125 motor with all electronics and that 86/87 frame. Ever seen that model crack or brake? I haven't....

The pipe may be an issue but the front rails look higher to the down tube that doesn't snap on those years.

If you can't get an 86/87 swingarm, caliper, carrier, axle; Just cut it off at the round back and weld whatever model has cheaper/better parts. Just gotta line up the chain and caliper may need a custom spacer or 's.

400EX
350X etc etc....

[Jmoozy27]

I have the full '86 200x chassis, and complete CR125 motor and harness. I'm going to use '83/84 250r axle, modified (onformula1) full suspension. I'm a big fan of the 2nd gen 200x frame, and no I have never seen one crack. I may have a few other surprise mods along the way. This one will be built to perform.

[bcredneck]

that killed my 81 yz 125 and i loved that bike it had a fresh top end so the heat cooked the bottom crank bearing before the top end was done all because coolant ran threw the frame with a bottle neck at the bottom. Its the yz with the triple clamp rad that always leaks out the steering tube horrible design but the fastest (steel frame) 125 ive ridden.
And the only bike ive ever had decked out with aftermarket parts

[Dirtcrasher]

I have the full '86 200x chassis, and complete CR125 motor and harness. I'm going to use '83/84 250r axle, modified (onformula1) full suspension. I'm a big fan of the 2nd gen 200x frame, and no I have never seen one crack. I may have a few other surprise mods along the way. This one will be built to perform.

Should be a blast!! Either the 84/84 R or the 85 200X model needed smaller I D seals, by about 2mm I think. I still have some, they are blue. But any bearing shop can help you; Most have a 25$ minimum so I get front wheel bearings 6302 or 6304, I forget...

It's in my "20 Day build" thread.....

[Jmoozy27]

It's in my "20 Day build" thread.....

I read that one long ago, that and ol deuces "Super X" thread. It those 2 threads that opened my eyes to the '86 X frames and how solid they are. This will be my second build on one and god willing won't be my last.

[Jmoozy27]

I took a couple rounds with this swinger about a month ago and decided to fight another day

Well I'm back and I got some heat for dat azz!!!!!
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222599&stc=1
Victory is sweet!!! Bronze medal sucks!!!:beer
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222600&stc=1

[onformula1]

I read that one long ago, that and ol deuces "Super X" thread. It those 2 threads that opened my eyes to the '86 X frames and how solid they are. This will be my second build on one and god willing won't be my last.

Please stop hoarding the 1986-87 200X rollers, they are rarer than hen's teeth out this way. :lol:

You may want to invest in a hydraulic press, you can get a 12 ton at Harbor freight for like $99 bucks with the 20 percent off coupon and you would be surprised how much you will use it. It's a decent piece for the money, they make a good metal brake as well.

[Jmoozy27]

Please stop hoarding the 1986-87 200X rollers, they are rarer than hen's teeth out this way. :lol:

You may want to invest in a hydraulic press, you can get a 12 ton at Harbor freight for like $79 bucks with the 20 percent off coupon and you would be surprised how much you will use it. It's a decent piece for the money, they make a good metal brake as well.

That's funny, I was showing a noob at work the exact press you are talking about. My exact words were,
"I need to get one of those. I could use that for my business."
I may go get one tomorrow.

[onformula1]

That's funny, I was showing a noob at work the exact press you are talking about. My exact words were,
"I need to get one of those. I could use that for my business."
I may go get one tomorrow.

They are pretty good, you know they have a few HF type bugs, but nothing to seriuos.

I have had mine for 17 years and use it a lot.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-h-frame-industrial-heavy-duty-floor-shop-press-60604.html

[Jmoozy27]

They are pretty good, you know they have a few HF type bugs, but nothing to seriuos.

I have had mine for 17 years and use it a lot.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-h-frame-industrial-heavy-duty-floor-shop-press-60604.html

Yeah they are common in mechanic shops and oilfield/industrial settings. I'm pretty sure every machine shop in Broussard has one.

[Jmoozy27]

The engine is out of the donor frame. Electronics too...
222623

[onformula1]

Very cool, that's some serious horsepower in a engine that is a bit bigger then a bowling ball.

Now all you need to do is clean & touch it up before the swamp creatures get to it. :lol:

[Jmoozy27]

Finally got tired of stripping 30 yr old paint and just blasted the damn thing...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223420&stc=1

[onformula1]

I told ya, there is a ingredient missing from these strippers.

[Jmoozy27]

I told ya, there is a ingredient missing from these strippers.

Like most of today's new product, the drive to actually do what it's intended to do...:lol:

[onformula1]

Like most of today's new product, the drive to actually do what it's intended to do...:lol:

HAHA, I said strippers

[Jmoozy27]

Btw, I measured both swinger bolts. The cr125 bolt is 20mm and the 200x bolt is 14mm. Do you think we should use a 2 part reduction sleeve w/ lips like the bushings?

[onformula1]

Btw, I measured both swinger bolts. The cr125 bolt is 20mm and the 200x bolt is 14mm. Do you think we should use a 2 part reduction sleeve w/ lips like the bushings?

I am not sure what you mean? Are you using bkm's delrin kit?

[onformula1]

I suggest setting everything up, full alignment of the chain, exhaust, ETC.

if you need a mock up sleeve for the cases/swingarm pivot bolt, (14mm to ID of CR case) let me know and I will machine a "Dummy" and ship it to you

Then let me know what you need to top it off.

Git R Done big guy.

And please stop your hoarding the 86/87 200x chassis, or I may take a drive and stop in for some gumbo and a roller. HAHA!

[Jmoozy27]

I am not sure what you mean? Are you using bkm's delrin kit?

I will be using bkm bushings, I will need a second reduction sleeve with a 20mm OD and 14mm ID. I was thinking that a 2 piece set just for each side of the cases would be ideal to prevent the steel ends of the swinger from contacting the cases. If that makes since.

[Jmoozy27]

I suggest setting everything up, full alignment of the chain, exhaust, ETC.

if you need a mock up sleeve for the cases/swingarm pivot bolt, (14mm to ID of CR case) let me know and I will machine a "Dummy" and ship it to you

Then let me know what you need to top it off.

Git R Done big guy.

And please stop your hoarding the 86/87 200x chassis, or I may take a drive and stop in for some gumbo and a roller. HAHA!

Sounds good, I started to mock everything last night... Then it got a little late...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223423&stc=1
You're always welcome to a roller, and some gumbo, étouffée, etc.

[oscarmayer]

HAHA, I said strippers

MMmmmmmm strippers! nothing beat a sexy pair of Strippers!!!

http://www.dhresource.com/albu_318369268_00-1.0x0/Self-adjustable%20Multifunctional%20Wire%20Stripper%20C rimping%20Cutter%20Tool%20Crimper.jpg

[Jmoozy27]

MMmmmmmm strippers! nothing beat a sexy pair of Strippers!!!

http://www.dhresource.com/albu_318369268_00-1.0x0/Self-adjustable%20Multifunctional%20Wire%20Stripper%20C rimping%20Cutter%20Tool%20Crimper.jpg

High dollar strippers!!!

[onformula1]

Sounds good, I started to mock everything last night... Then it got a little late...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223423&stc=1
You're always welcome to a roller, and some gumbo, étouffée, etc.

Man, that is so cool, if you didn't know better it looks factory.

The lines of the engine even follow the frame, you don't even need to move the bracket for the head stay, just fab a bracket up.

[Jmoozy27]

Man, that is so cool, if you didn't know better it looks factory.

The lines of the engine even follow the frame, you don't even need to move the bracket for the head stay, just fab a bracket up.

Not sure yet, but I may be able to use the same mounts and hardware. Maybe just drill new holes in the hardware.

[John_Neary]

depending on how far your kickstart lever can be rotated forward you might be able to pull start the engine by giving the kickstarter a yank with your right arm, i used to start my 79 CR125 powered three wheeler this way after i watched Tommy Gaian do it with his CR125 Team Honda bike one day at Saddleback

[Jmoozy27]

I made a mistake, the cr125 swinger bolt is 17mm

[onformula1]

depending on how far your kickstart lever can be rotated forward you might be able to pull start the engine by giving the kickstarter a yank with your right arm, i used to start my 79 CR125 powered three wheeler this way after i watched Tommy Gaian do it with his CR125 Team Honda bike one day at Saddleback

It has been tested and they start pretty easy by hand, you may want to try a glove.

[oldskool83]

just cut the fender a little higher for the kicker or cut a notch in it like blasters and banshees had.

[John_Neary]

i wrapped the end with tacky double sided tape to pad it and give it a bit of grip, it was very easy to start and was even faster than kicking the bike over as you gotta reach down anyway to flip out the kickstarter if the bike stalls but you just give it a tug instead of having to stand up and put your foot on the lever

i was doing this in 82 when i was only 13 years old so it does not take much strength

[freewheeler]

Neat project, I've thought of building something like this for my son to ride. This setup would be pretty good for a racer, one that stays up in the rpm all the time. 125's don't make good power until they are really revving. How much do you expect the final product to weigh? 125 motocross bikes are extremely light and only have a single skinny rear tire to turn which allows them to spin and stay revved. Are you concerned of the fact that it will undoubtedly be more difficult to ride on trails than a 250 2 stroke or any 4 stroke, or are you strictly a racer? Looking good so far.

[onformula1]

i wrapped the end with tacky double sided tape to pad it and give it a bit of grip, it was very easy to start and was even faster than kicking the bike over as you gotta reach down anyway to flip out the kickstarter if the bike stalls but you just give it a tug instead of having to stand up and put your foot on the lever

i was doing this in 82 when i was only 13 years old so it does not take much strength

Yeah, I was thinking wrapping it with friction tape with a heat shrink band on both ends, or shave it smooth and leave the ends a lone and run a Rotax rubber sleeve.

[onformula1]

Neat project, I've thought of building something like this for my son to ride. This setup would be pretty good for a racer, one that stays up in the rpm all the time. 125's don't make good power until they are really revving. How much do you expect the final product to weigh? 125 motocross bikes are extremely light and only have a single skinny rear tire to turn which allows them to spin and stay revved. Are you concerned of the fact that it will undoubtedly be more difficult to ride on trails than a 250 2 stroke or any 4 stroke, or are you strictly a racer? Looking good so far.

I think you would be surprised at how much power they make a lower revs, look up Jimmy lewis or Paul Edmondson and a few others, they had great careers waxing 2 stroke 250's and 4 strokes in tight woods, enduros and GP's. With the modern design and power valve they make a nice spread of power, now if you are going flat out against a good running 250 you will need to be between 11,000-12,500 RPM to be competitive.

With a killer set-up you should be able to get to 250lbs., probably more like 260lbs. with out going nuts.

[Dirtcrasher]

I have 75% or more of the parts to put a Blaster motor in an 86/87 chassis. I'd also like to run a TRX450 swinger with linkage suspension. I have an 05 shorter swinger 450 setup...

When I had a Blaster for my "EX", A FMF pipe, lid off and jetting really woke it up.

Simple air cooled reliable motor as well and a short kicker.

I guess it's all in what you have laying around, lol.

[onformula1]

I have 75% or more of the parts to put a Blaster motor in an 86/87 chassis. I'd also like to run a TRX450 swinger with linkage suspension. I have an 05 shorter swinger 450 setup...

When I had a Blaster for my "EX", A FMF pipe, lid off and jetting really woke it up.

Simple air cooled reliable motor as well and a short kicker.

I guess it's all in what you have laying around, lol.

I have said for a few years that would be a great build, I would use a 240cc kit and build it for torque, it's not much of a pin the tach motor.

The toughest part will be the pipe, I would look into using a Kawasaki KDX200 pipe with a few mods.

[Jmoozy27]

Neat project, I've thought of building something like this for my son to ride. This setup would be pretty good for a racer, one that stays up in the rpm all the time. 125's don't make good power until they are really revving. How much do you expect the final product to weigh? 125 motocross bikes are extremely light and only have a single skinny rear tire to turn which allows them to spin and stay revved. Are you concerned of the fact that it will undoubtedly be more difficult to ride on trails than a 250 2 stroke or any 4 stroke, or are you strictly a racer? Looking good so far.

I'm not a racer per say, but I do enjoy going fast and I understand the mechanics behind doing so. This one will be built for speed, and performance. No trails, I may try my hand at a local series, we will just have to see. I expect good results with the proposed suspension, gearing, jetting, mixture, etc.

[freewheeler]

I think you would be surprised at how much power they make a lower revs, look up Jimmy lewis or Paul Edmondson and a few others, they had great careers waxing 2 stroke 250's and 4 strokes in tight woods, enduros and GP's. With the modern design and power valve they make a nice spread of power, now if you are going flat out against a good running 250 you will need to be between 11,000-12,500 RPM to be competitive.

With a killer set-up you should be able to get to 250lbs., probably more like 260lbs. with out going nuts.

Yes but dirt bikes have a skinny rear tire that can be easily spun and kept in the revs. Champions have a tendency to win no matter what they are riding. A cr125 weighs about 190 pounds. Even at 260, hoping to stay in the power anjd have fun, make it useable and fast on a trail with 2 fat rear tires locked together with a 125cc engine pushing them will require the rider to to be extremely skilled. If it was intended to be an all out go-fast ride then I'm wondering why such a small cc engine was used. A 250 2 stroke engine is not much heavier at all and realistically is going to be a boatload faster in the same chassis. There are riders that can beat 250r's on a flat rack riding a 200x so flat out speed isnt everything but a four stroke has useable power down low thats why they can hang. A 125 three wheeler will get ran outta town by any good running 250 theres no doubt but a very cool project for a class racer if thats the plan

[onformula1]

Yes but dirt bikes have a skinny rear tire that can be easily spun and kept in the revs. Champions have a tendency to win no matter what they are riding. A cr125 weighs about 190 pounds. Even at 260, hoping to stay in the power anjd have fun, make it useable and fast on a trail with 2 fat rear tires locked together with a 125cc engine pushing them will require the rider to to be extremely skilled. If it was intended to be an all out go-fast ride then I'm wondering why such a small cc engine was used. A 250 2 stroke engine is not much heavier at all and realistically is going to be a boatload faster in the same chassis. There are riders that can beat 250r's on a flat rack riding a 200x so flat out speed isnt everything but a four stroke has useable power down low thats why they can hang. A 125 three wheeler will get ran outta town by any good running 250 theres no doubt but a very cool project for a class racer if thats the plan

So you think a CR125 MX bike has less traction that a CR125 trike? On a MX track or pretty much anywhere? I disagree

This trike or any trike like it will use a 16" or 18" tire 8.5-9.5" wide, compared to a 25" tall modern computer designed and very aggressive MX tire that digs down deep and finds the best traction available.

Take a 250r and a CR125 to the dunes with stock tires, you will find out the 250r goes nowhere pretty quick and has major traction problems, the MX bike will climb anything in sight and has more traction.

The CR250r doesn't fit very well in this chassis, aside from the vibration issues, a 1985-86 250r chassis would be better.

So, from what you wrote the CR125 trike will not hang with a 250r?

Again, I think you are forgetting many things such as-

Weight
Horsepower
The modern design of the engine
RPM
Spread of power
Power valve
No counter balancer
Much less inertia
A transmission with much less drag

Interesting they use a larger carb. stock vs. stock

I am not saying this trike will be faster than a 250r, but it deserves not to be underestimated, your quote- "A 125 three wheeler will get ran outta town by any good running 250" is not correct, I have seen it myself have you?

Also, take a look at- Oscar Mayers sons quad in the quad section YZ85- 90cc kit and it destroys the same rear tires the 450 pro's use on their quads.

[Jmoozy27]

Yes but dirt bikes have a skinny rear tire that can be easily spun and kept in the revs. Champions have a tendency to win no matter what they are riding. A cr125 weighs about 190 pounds. Even at 260, hoping to stay in the power anjd have fun, make it useable and fast on a trail with 2 fat rear tires locked together with a 125cc engine pushing them will require the rider to to be extremely skilled. If it was intended to be an all out go-fast ride then I'm wondering why such a small cc engine was used. A 250 2 stroke engine is not much heavier at all and realistically is going to be a boatload faster in the same chassis. There are riders that can beat 250r's on a flat rack riding a 200x so flat out speed isnt everything but a four stroke has useable power down low thats why they can hang. A 125 three wheeler will get ran outta town by any good running 250 theres no doubt but a very cool project for a class racer if thats the plan

Freewheeler, thanks for your opinion. I agree that this will be a challenge. I'm not one to waste my time with something that won't perform. I think at this point neither you or I have anything to base our opinions on, because neither of us have completed a similar build. To answer your question, the motor was chosen after much research by myself and a few other 3ww members. I had a lot to choose from for this project, I have an 250cc airfooler sitting on the bench right now that I could have used. But it's not time for that. This is the build I chose, and until it's complete, no one, unless that person has built one, knows what it's gonna do once completed. Your comments are welcome, but please keep the fortune telling to a minimum.

PS: If I go to TF 2016, I'll bring this one along and you can judge it's integrity then...

[hawaiirider]

sweet build, id love to ride that trike!

[oldskool83]

Some of us just built bikes with left overs and do not care what anyone really thinks or says lol. These documented smaller 2 stroke swaps can help to inspire people who have a mix of stuff that may not have much money into anything and just want something that can be run all over. Light small trikes are fun. I like tacos also.

[Jmoozy27]

Some of us just built bikes with left overs and do not care what anyone really thinks or says lol. These documented smaller 2 stroke swaps can help to inspire people who have a mix of stuff that may not have much money into anything and just want something that can be run all over. Light small trikes are fun. I like tacos also.

Tacos rock, and I have a lot of parts!!! Too bad I'm like Johnny Cash at a caddy plant, all different years... My builds are all mutants!!!!

[Ol Deuce]

the small cc 2stroke conversions are a blast ! lower gears and RPMs up they are fun !!:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:D


https://youtu.be/TZEtQDPKM3c[/video
[video]//www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZEtQDPKM3c

[hawaiirider]

the small cc 2stroke conversions are a blast ! Lower gears and rpms up they are fun !!:bounce:bounce:bounce:d


https://youtu.be/tzetqdpkm3c

https://youtu.be/tzetqdpkm3c

awesome bike man, like wow!!!!

[Jmoozy27]

the small cc 2stroke conversions are a blast ! lower gears and RPMs up they are fun !!:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:D


https://youtu.be/TZEtQDPKM3c[/video
[video]//www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZEtQDPKM3c

Randy, I may have said this before, if mine looks half as good as your then that's a win in my book!!!

[86125m]

yes jmoozy your builds are mutants but your builds are more like the teenage mutant ninja turtles just awesome. Ive seen pictures of your other projects and your work is great. I love the superx you built.

[oldskool83]

Keep building. I just had a friend tell me one day I will stop messing with this old crap and buy a 450R quad....problem is I road a 06 trx450r and liked nothing about it. I like my timeless classics because people like to hate when you have an arsenal of toys in the garage plus the "WTF" is that bike?

That's when you get the pleasure of telling that person to lick your satchel.......and grab a spoon

[86125m]

Yep the day I stop messing with old crap is going to be the day I die and hopefully I'll be on one of my old machines and go out in a blaze of glory. I'll probably say something like "hay y'all watch this" before I go as well

[Ol Deuce]

Randy, I may have said this before, if mine looks half as good as your then that's a win in my book!!!

Just By doing what you do ! Your the winner !!!!Love these builds that are off the cuff:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce Ol Deuce

[83ATC185]

definitely watching this one. I've always liked the "trailability" of the smaller 2 stroke dirtbikes, enough power to be fun yet still manageable in the woods. Cant wait to see how this turns out. The stuff all you guys think up to build is inspiring to say the least. That CR motor looks right at home in that trike :beer

[onformula1]

definitely watching this one. I've always liked the "trailability" of the smaller 2 stroke dirtbikes, enough power to be fun yet still manageable in the woods. Cant wait to see how this turns out. The stuff all you guys think up to build is inspiring to say the least. That CR motor looks right at home in that trike :beer
Those engines are pretty cool

A low end pipe. Long silencer with a spark arrestor and a flywheel weight converts them pretty well for tight trail use.

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

I received and install new swinger bushings from BKM. They fit perfect as always. I may use the stock 200x axle just because it's seems beefier than the 84 250r axle even though it is much shorter. I can always switch it later if deemed necessary. I have lots of cleaning up to do as well as fabbing and fitting. Measure twice, weld once!!!

[onformula1]

Measure twice, weld once!!!

Good idea.

[oldskool83]

I sell 1" billet wheel spacers if you want +2 wider rear end on that 200x axle.

[Jmoozy27]

I sell 1" billet wheel spacers if you want +2 wider rear end on that 200x axle.

Thanks, I may do that!!! I forgot to mention that I have a set of 300/400ex hubs that I will be using.

[Jmoozy27]

Chopped the swinger up, finally getting some stuff done...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223568&stc=1
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223569&stc=1

[onformula1]

Chopped the swinger up, finally getting some stuff done...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223568&stc=1
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223569&stc=1

I would French that in and add a brace across that area, a piece of old bent handlebar will work great as a brace.

[Jmoozy27]

I will clean it up tomorrow. I may be able to use the chunk that I hacked out as a brace. If not then I have plenty of bent bars to choose from.

[onformula1]

Yeah, keep the swamp creatures out. :lol:

You don't want to twist that swingarm if you case a big triple.

[onformula1]

bkm makes some purdy bushings, that's the first time I have seen them up close.

[Jmoozy27]

Very reliable, top notch machining...

[onformula1]

Very reliable, top notch machining...

Great guy, very talented!, True asset to the trike cause.

[Jmoozy27]

The piece was a perfect fit...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223591&stc=1
Popcorn anyone.... Lol... Working on my welding skills...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223592&stc=1

[onformula1]

What kind of welder do you have?

[Billy Golightly]

Looks like you're on the right track - don't forget the cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to welding... :)

[Jmoozy27]

What kind of welder do you have?

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html

It's set up for flux core right now.

[Jmoozy27]

Looks like you're on the right track - don't forget the cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to welding... :)

Thanks Billy, I'll keep that in mind.

[onformula1]

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html

It's set up for flux core right now.

Bro, throw that flux core wire as far as you can and never look back!

[Jmoozy27]

Bro, throw that flux core wire as far as you can and never look back!

Trust me, I plan to...

[onformula1]

Trust me, I plan to...

And for gas get argon/ CO2 mix it's well worth the couple of extra bucks.

[Jmoozy27]

And for gas get argon/ CO2 mix it's well worth the couple of extra bucks.

The difference that mig wire and gas makes is unspeakable...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223790&stc=1http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223791&stc=1http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223792&stc=1

Every weld gets better, I should've got one of these years ago...

[onformula1]

Something is not correct, but its hard to tell because you are wire brushing and grinding the welds so it is hard to tell.

Here are a few tips-

As Bill said previously, it must be clean- remove all paint and primer at least a 1/2" from the weld area I prefer wire wheeling or sanding instead of grinding because it doesn't remove metal. Clean the welding area with a oil free cleaner I use lacquer thinner and paper towels, so you know there is no old oil left in your clean towels. The area must be clean, clean, clean you now no longer have flux to clean the area.

Do you push or pull? Try the push method if you don't

Lay your elbow against the frame and clamp your hand around the frame parallel to the welding area now put hand with the MIG gun across your other arm and slide across to have a steady bead. should look like this- + Like you are creating a human sliding mill table.

The shielding gas my be to low, hard to tell with your weld cleaned up.

This is very important- do not use a extension cord, plug the MIG in the outlet directly, move if you have to, if you can't use the shortest, largest diameter cord you can find.

Make sure the ground clamp is within 12" of your welding area and is clamped to the frame with no paint on either side, sand or wire wheel it.

[Jmoozy27]

Something is not correct, but its hard to tell because you are wire brushing and grinding the welds so it is hard to tell.

Here are a few tips-

As Bill said previously, it must be clean- remove all paint and primer at least a 1/2" from the weld area I prefer wire wheeling or sanding instead of grinding because it doesn't remove metal. Clean the welding area with a oil free cleaner I use lacquer thinner and paper towels, so you know there is no old oil left in your clean towels. The area must be clean, clean, clean you now no longer have flux to clean the area.

Do you push or pull? Try the push method if you don't

Lay your elbow against the frame and clamp your hand around the frame parallel to the welding area now put hand with the MIG gun across your other arm and slide across to have a steady bead. should look like this- + Like you are creating a human sliding mill table.

The shielding gas my be to low, hard to tell with your weld cleaned up.

This is very important- do not use a extension cord, plug the MIG in the outlet directly, move if you have to, if you can't use the shortest, largest diameter cord you can find.

Make sure the ground clamp is within 12" of your welding area and is clamped to the frame with no paint on either side, sand or wire wheel it.

I'm learning the machine and making adjustments as I go, wire speed may have been a little slow on the last bead. Nonetheless, everything that I have ever done has been learned on the job. It's a work in progress. :)

I push...

Does anyone make a gusset kit for '86 200x, my machinist was recently robbed of some of his equipment which unfortunately included his plasma cutter.

[onformula1]

I have never seen a gusset kit for the 86-87 200x.

A 4" or 4 1/2" angle grinder with the guard removed works great or better on thin gusset plate with cut off wheels. (I have a plasma cutter)

Fast, smooth, little clean up needed.

http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10-4-1-2-half-inch-cut-off-wheels-for-metal-45430.html

Cheapest place to buy they work great (Dewalt's are a bit longer lasting at $5 bucks a pop) You can use the 20% off HF coupon too.

I can cut out a gusset kit faster than setting up my plasma cutter. :lol:

I use thick paper like a file folder as a template, market it on the frame with a thin, good pen then cut it out with scissors, lay it on you plate and mark it with a silver sharpie...Done deal!

Flapper wheels clean up the edges nicely, give them a try, you will not use grinding wheels on a trike anymore if you do.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-metal-grindingcut-offflap-wheel-assorted-set-10-pc-61178.html

[onformula1]

BTW, I am not trying to pound on your welds, just trying to help like when you taught me everything I know about Gumbo!

[Jmoozy27]

BTW, I am not trying to pound on your welds, just trying to help like when you taught me everything I know about Gumbo!

It's cool, I thought I would've caught more flak from some of the other guys too. I've been watching you tube videos and reading all sorts of articles on mig welding. There is really no way to learn other than putting on the mask and letting sparks fly. Seems to be a slow weekend for the boards.

What's a good size steel plate to make the gussets?

[onformula1]

I use 1/8", but Mike said he bought a 350x kit from TPC Trikes and said it's 1/16"

I like it a bit thicker, but a do drill lighting holes on the bigger sized gussets, looks trick too.

I make mine on center of the tubes, Mike said the TPC Trikes kit weld to the outside of the tubes.

I like the way I do it and it is the way Factory Works MX bikes have used since the first one I saw when I was a little kid.

[Jmoozy27]

I use 1/8", but Mike said he bought a 350x kit from TPC Trikes and said it's 1/16"

I like it a bit thicker, but a do drill lighting holes on the bigger sized gussets, looks trick too.

I make mine on center of the tubes, Mike said the TPC Trikes kit weld to the outside of the tubes.

I like the way I do it and it is the way Factory Works MX bikes have used since the first one I saw when I was a little kid.

Both ways seem to make sense. Your way assures that you bind to the meat of the tubing, tpc way binds the frame to the meat of the gussets. What if I was to weld the gusset onto the middle of the tubing like a "T"?

[ironchop]

Flux core is tough to get a smooth looking bead unless you crank it up...heat and wire speed.

Be careful with the 110v machines. Yes, they will weld up to 1/4 plate single pass BUT buried deep in the fine print it says you should only run continuous in like 5 second bursts or the machine is likely to overheat some internal plastic pcs on the lead trunnions and wire junction blocks. Check your user manual as I've seen Lincoln, Hobart, and Chicago Electric 110v welders do this. I melted a Craftsman/Lincoln welder installing rockers on my GTX.

That being said, I laid miles of bead in my lifetime and I learned two things that make my beads and penetration look good. Turn the heat up. Adjust the wire speed to match but a lot of ppl are afraid to burn a hole so they weld on too low of a setting. Its way easier for me to adjust my hand speed to how high my amperage setting. The welds you showed are definitely getting better but the heat is too low still. Close but low.

Second, its easier for me to get a real smooth and strong bead with feathered edges if I "stitch" the weld rather than just push the wire. I push forward a bit then stop and just as I stop linear motion, I just twist my hand backward like a twist throttle motion. I twist backward about 3/8 of an inch and then stop, twist back toward myself, move ahead a little and repeat. This "stitches" the weld and runs a little more heat back on the previous weld giving your base metal a bigger melt puddle and thus a smoother bead with better penetration.....Looks second, Penetration FIRST. This method works better on thinner material and with colder welding machines like yours.

OK! .....hint #3. Don't be afraid to burn holes and you will become a master bead layer fast. The BEST way to learn how to stop fearing a burn-thru is to learn how to fix one. Everyone does it two or three times. Once you practice fixing them and get good, you'll be a better welder for it. I use the trigger to give really short bursts on the edge of holes. It only adds a 1/16 at a time at the most but it works. I also use the same method to weld sheet metal. Short bursts and let it cool in between bursts to reduce warping. It takes forever but its worth the effort.

Flux core is tough to make pretty beads with but they hold fine if done right. I would stop using flux core and use the gas. If your bead looks like it was laid on top of the base metal, turn up the heat until it looks melted all the way into it.

These are all just my suggestions of methods I use and your results may vary.

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

[onformula1]

There's a few ways to do it, mine look like a " I " frame tube on top, frame tube on bottom, the gusset would be the vertical part of the " I "

[Jmoozy27]

There's a few ways to do it, mine look like a " I " frame tube on top, frame tube on bottom, the gusset would be the vertical part of the " I "

Okay, then we are on the same page. That's what I meant...

Btw, I have a gumbo on the stove right now. I'm participating in a local gumbo/chili cook off tomorrow. 3rd annual, and my 3rd entry. I plan on winning this thing tomorrow.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223808&stc=1
Hint: It's always better the next day...

[onformula1]

Nice, good luck, I hope you take it!

[Jmoozy27]

Flux core is tough to get a smooth looking bead unless you crank it up...heat and wire speed.

Be careful with the 110v machines. Yes, they will weld up to 1/4 plate single pass BUT buried deep in the fine print it says you should only run continuous in like 5 second bursts or the machine is likely to overheat some internal plastic pcs on the lead trunnions and wire junction blocks. Check your user manual as I've seen Lincoln, Hobart, and Chicago Electric 110v welders do this. I melted a Craftsman/Lincoln welder installing rockers on my GTX.

That being said, I laid miles of bead in my lifetime and I learned two things that make my beads and penetration look good. Turn the heat up. Adjust the wire speed to match but a lot of ppl are afraid to burn a hole so they weld on too low of a setting. Its way easier for me to adjust my hand speed to how high my amperage setting. The welds you showed are definitely getting better but the heat is too low still. Close but low.

Second, its easier for me to get a real smooth and strong bead with feathered edges if I "stitch" the weld rather than just push the wire. I push forward a bit then stop and just as I stop linear motion, I just twist my hand backward like a twist throttle motion. I twist backward about 3/8 of an inch and then stop, twist back toward myself, move ahead a little and repeat. This "stitches" the weld and runs a little more heat back on the previous weld giving your base metal a bigger melt puddle and thus a smoother bead with better penetration.....Looks second, Penetration FIRST. This method works better on thinner material and with colder welding machines like yours.

OK! .....hint #3. Don't be afraid to burn holes and you will become a master bead layer fast. The BEST way to learn how to stop fearing a burn-thru is to learn how to fix one. Everyone does it two or three times. Once you practice fixing them and get good, you'll be a better welder for it. I use the trigger to give really short bursts on the edge of holes. It only ads a 1/16 at a time at the most but it works. I also use the same method to weld sheet metal. Short bursts and let it cool in between bursts to reduce warping. It takes forever but its worth the effort.

Flux core is tough to make pretty beads with but they hold fine if done right. If your bead looks like it was laid on top of the base metal, turn up the heat until it looks melted all the way into it.

These are all just my suggestions of methods I use and your results may vary.

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the tips IC, I was hoping you would chime in...

I ditched the flux for now, I'll save it for the thicker stuff. But not until I get some practice in.

It's funny that you brought up welding holes. There were a few very small rust holes that I attempted to weld this morning. All of them grew from the size of a pencil lead to a dime. But after gathering myself I actually patched them up pretty nicely. I did like you explained, allowed it to cool, turned up the heat a little, and moved a little faster. Frightened me for a second though...

[onformula1]

Flux core is tough to get a smooth looking bead unless you crank it up...heat and wire speed.

Be careful with the 110v machines. Yes, they will weld up to 1/4 plate single pass BUT buried deep in the fine print it says you should only run continuous in like 5 second bursts or the machine is likely to overheat some internal plastic pcs on the lead trunnions and wire junction blocks. Check your user manual as I've seen Lincoln, Hobart, and Chicago Electric 110v welders do this. I melted a Craftsman/Lincoln welder installing rockers on my GTX.

That being said, I laid miles of bead in my lifetime and I learned two things that make my beads and penetration look good. Turn the heat up. Adjust the wire speed to match but a lot of ppl are afraid to burn a hole so they weld on too low of a setting. Its way easier for me to adjust my hand speed to how high my amperage setting. The welds you showed are definitely getting better but the heat is too low still. Close but low.

Second, its easier for me to get a real smooth and strong bead with feathered edges if I "stitch" the weld rather than just push the wire. I push forward a bit then stop and just as I stop linear motion, I just twist my hand backward like a twist throttle motion. I twist backward about 3/8 of an inch and then stop, twist back toward myself, move ahead a little and repeat. This "stitches" the weld and runs a little more heat back on the previous weld giving your base metal a bigger melt puddle and thus a smoother bead with better penetration.....Looks second, Penetration FIRST. This method works better on thinner material and with colder welding machines like yours.

OK! .....hint #3. Don't be afraid to burn holes and you will become a master bead layer fast. The BEST way to learn how to stop fearing a burn-thru is to learn how to fix one. Everyone does it two or three times. Once you practice fixing them and get good, you'll be a better welder for it. I use the trigger to give really short bursts on the edge of holes. It only ads a 1/16 at a time at the most but it works. I also use the same method to weld sheet metal. Short bursts and let it cool in between bursts to reduce warping. It takes forever but its worth the effort.

Flux core is tough to make pretty beads with but they hold fine if done right. If your bead looks like it was laid on top of the base metal, turn up the heat until it looks melted all the way into it.

These are all just my suggestions of methods I use and your results may vary.

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

Ever use the "Brass" to fill holes? :lol:

[Jmoozy27]

Nice, good luck, I hope you take it!

Didn't even rank...:mad: oh well maybe next year... It seemed like a winner:wondering cooked it til 1:30 last night.

[onformula1]

Didn't even rank...:mad: oh well maybe next year... It seemed like a winner:wondering cooked it til 1:30 last night.

Sorry man, look on the bright side I bet the winner can't build killer trikes!

If you have ever read the book- Outliers: The Story of Success you will find that you have to put in 10,000 hours to be a top pro at something. Believe me there are some people that will do that for a local Gumbo award. I have won some private Chili, green chili and salsa competitions, but on a larger level I would get smoked, I think.

[Red Rider]

Btw, I have a gumbo on the stove right now. I'm participating in a local gumbo/chili cook off tomorrow.I was just in New Orleans Thursday night, and had some excellent gumbo at the Double Tree hotel. I was looking forward to that gumbo all day long enroute. Unfortunately, I over-sauced it a bit with the tobasco sauce, but luckily no "ring-of-fire" the next morning. Sorry to hear about the gumbo results.

[Jmoozy27]

Sorry man, look on the bright side I bet the winner can't build killer trikes!

Good point!!! I feel better already...:w00t:

[Dirtcrasher]

The difference that mig wire and gas makes is unspeakable...


Every weld gets better, I should've got one of these years ago...

I also like a higher amperage and have no desire to ever use flux core.

Just a couple things I figured out. If I burn a hole due to too much heat or a thinner area, I have turned down the amps a bit to fill the hole up and then crank it up and pass over it again with the higher amperage.

What works for me; When I am welding hot, rather than going too fast left to right or vice versa, I bring the weld pool up and thru the middle and down, repeat, repeat, repeat. It makes a series of backwards "C's". You end up with a wider weld, not a skinny line and the more material you can cover, the stronger the weld.

I found the Mig welder to be the easiest to learn and Tig, the hardest. I am still not getting there yet.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/smashedtruck014_zpsd0880c6e.jpg (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/Dirtcrasher/media/smashedtruck014_zpsd0880c6e.jpg.html)

Thats a vertical weld so the backwards "C's" are up or down.

[Jmoozy27]

Got a fresh set of custom bkm bushing in today...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224058&stc=1
Everything fits nicely...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224059&stc=1
Even the chain aligned up as planned...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224060&stc=1
Hell yeah!!!!:w00t:

[onformula1]

I was walking through a fab shop today and there was a guy welding a cart, with some pretty bad welding I looked at them and he got mad and threw his nice auto helmet down on the floor and broke the lens three welds away, so I was feeling a bit jerky and layed a few down blind (eyes closed)

Practice makes.... decent welds.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/21/75e093c918e29bcdeaced59d616043cd.jpg

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[onformula1]

Got a fresh set of custom bkm bushing in today...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224058&stc=1
Everything fits nicely...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224059&stc=1
Even the chain aligned up as planned...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224060&stc=1
Hell yeah!!!!:w00t:

Looking good, looks like your measurements are good, bkm does some nice work... to bad he is quitting trikes... or is he after making these? I hope he continues!

Get back the thrill bkm your are a asset to the trike community.

[Jmoozy27]

Looking good, looks like your measurements are good, bkm does some nice work... to bad he is quitting trikes... or is he after making these? I hope he continues!

Get back the thrill bkm your are a asset to the trike community.

The precision of the reduction sleeve was spot on. 3mm reduction is pretty precise. From what I hear it's tough to machine delrin that thin.

[onformula1]

It's not to hard, you just have to watch what the material is doing.

I machined this black delrin to .97 mm and it's all good.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/21/9d7d0ccbb91cba3576edae911b106b0f.jpg

(The end is not cleaned up yet)

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[cr480r]

Nice build.. Always good to see a nice two-stroke swap.. What year is your engine?

I think I would have drilled the frame and used a 17mm bolt... Then drilled the swinger bushings for a proper 17mm sleeve.. Although the case sleeve is how the 500 dirtbike guys do it, and gives you the option of using standard bearings in the future

[Jmoozy27]

Nice build.. Always good to see a nice two-stroke swap.. What year is your engine?

I think I would have drilled the frame and used a 17mm bolt... Then drilled the swinger bushings for a proper 17mm sleeve.. Although the case sleeve is how the 500 dirtbike guys do it, and gives you the option of using standard bearings in the future

The motor is a '94. I could've went either way with the swinger. I chose this way because it just seemed a little easier and I already had all of the parts, minus the bushings. If for whatever reason something gets screwed up, I can always pull the sleeve, drill the bushings, and be back in business. It would have been tough to do the opposite after drilling the frame.

[bkm]

I'm glad to hear the reduction sleeve turned out okay. It wasn't some of my best work, but I learned a lot from that one. If for some reason that fails, lets go Barnett on it and try some bronze.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

I'll keep an eye on it but I'm feeling good about it.:)

[cr480r]

The motor is a '94.

Always heard that was a fast year for them. I have a complete transmission, cases, and ignition system if you end up needing parts

[Jmoozy27]

Always heard that was a fast year for them. I have a complete transmission, cases, and ignition system if you end up needing parts

Awesome, I should be okay as I bought the whole bike earlier this year with this build in mind. I haven't even heard the motor run yet. Not worried about that though. That's the easy stuff.:beer

[onformula1]

Nice build.. Always good to see a nice two-stroke swap.. What year is your engine?

I think I would have drilled the frame and used a 17mm bolt... Then drilled the swinger bushings for a proper 17mm sleeve.. Although the case sleeve is how the 500 dirtbike guys do it, and gives you the option of using standard bearings in the future
The CR bolt is too short

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

Been working on getting the motor positioned and mounts machined, never thought I would be using the Pythagorean theorem again. I had to google it.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224104&stc=1
Everything is lining up good I'm just reluctant to make move too quickly. Got a lot of work to do.http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224118&stc=1

[ironchop]

Nice work

Pythagoras was a Boss!

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

Nice work

Pythagoras was a Boss!

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

Its like the only thing that I remember from HS math :D

[Jmoozy27]

The front mounts are complete. I'll make the top ones tomorrow.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224193&stc=1
I like the way it sits
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224194&stc=1

[onformula1]

Man that looks factory, consider making the head stay out of aluminum it will cut down on vibration from a non-counter balanced engine.

Slot the hole that bolts to the head so it will not blown the head gasket.

I like the engine angle you used.

[Jmoozy27]

The pipe will be a tight fit, I will flip the top bolts so the threads face the opposite way.http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224201&stc=1 I think I will switch the color scheme up a bit. I will be going with a 1987 look. Flash red frame with the tank to match.http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224202&stc=1

[onformula1]

The pipe will be a tight fit, I will flip the top bolts so the threads face the opposite way.http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224201&stc=1 I think I will switch the color scheme up a bit. I will be going with a 1987 look. Flash red frame with the tank to match.http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224202&stc=1
That color combo will look even better with the suspension I planned out.

Killer combo......very jealous!

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[onformula1]

Hey your petcock is installed backwards BTW.

Mike better start putting rod to metal, you're smoking him LOL


Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

Hey your petcock is installed backwards BTW.

Mike better start putting rod to metal, you're smoking him LOL


Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

Thanks to some good advice on machining the gussets and picking up the welder Ive been able to knock some time off of the build. I don't want to rush though. I don't like doing the same chit twice.

[Jmoozy27]

That color combo will look even better with the suspension I planned out.

Killer combo......very jealous!

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

I've just been thinking about if Honda would have made this trike, '87 would have been the last year. So I'm going to build my interpretation of just that. Plus a white frame in Louisiana wouldn't stay white for very long. :lol:

[Red Rider]

Hey your petcock is installed backwards BTW.Looks like it's mounted properly to me.

[onformula1]

Looks like it's mounted properly to me.
Those CR's will look backwards compared to a trike

The lever goes on the backside facing the engine so it cannot be shut off by your boot they came from the factory that way

No joke

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[onformula1]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/25/346518d39459d7f4d02290347694c1a0.jpg

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/25/346518d39459d7f4d02290347694c1a0.jpg

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

That's nice!!! It may be a little early to talk about motor mods but... What would be some good ones? It has a PC pipe, stock silencer, stock intake from what I can see. I don't want to bore it unless I have to. Would the a Vforce reed package be a good idea?

[tecaterob]

Man I'm loving this build. Smaller bike with enough HP. I'm only 5'8 so I love riding small bikes.

Great job man!!!!!!

[Jmoozy27]

Man I'm loving this build. Smaller bike with enough HP. I'm only 5'8 so I love riding small bikes.

Great job man!!!!!!

Thanks!!!

This is my first smoker so I figured I would start with something smaller. Maybe some day I can work my way up to a 500, or 540.:naughty::lol:

[onformula1]

That's nice!!! It may be a little early to talk about motor mods but... What would be some good ones? It has a PC pipe, stock silencer, stock intake from what I can see. I don't want to bore it unless I have to. Would the a Vforce reed package be a good idea?

These engines are very, very fast!

Are you looking for more?, if so do you want more low, mid or top end? Let me know, I will share I have been building these engines since my first 1986 and back to 1983 on buddies bikes, mild to wild.

Or how about some simple, cheaper mods to tune the engine and fix any issues?

Keep in mind in their day they beat most manufacturers bikes with full race mods- box stock, they are a true pro worthy engine from the factory and competitive today and in the go kart world, right now.

[Jmoozy27]

I guess I'll just wait and see what I think once I take a few rides on it. I'm sure I'll want more power (Doesn't everyone) but not at the cost of reliability. I'll just wait to see which circuit if any needs to be assessed.

[Ol Deuce]

The front mounts are complete. I'll make the top ones tomorrow.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224193&stc=1
I like the way it sits
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224194&stc=1

This is one sweet build!! The 2nd gen X frame is the best choice for this build !!! Nice nice nice!!!!!:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:Bounc e

Ol Deuce

[onformula1]

I guess I'll just wait and see what I think once I take a few rides on it. I'm sure I'll want more power (Doesn't everyone) but not at the cost of reliability. I'll just wait to see which circuit if any needs to be assessed.

As always- IMHO

How about more power by fixing issues and tuning- (Pretty cheap too) Plus I can't keep anything stock....Don't even get me started on my old full race lawn mower..LOL, nitro- yeah but don't tell my wife..LOL

The stock intake is excellent, I would not use a RAD valve unless you want more low end and sacrifice everywhere else or I can show you how to modify it to be excellent, but money wise it is still not worth it. I am not a fan of anything V-Force on that motor,,,save the bucks, put it elsewhere you will thank me.

I would use the stock intake with Carbon tech reeds, never the low tension, medium for everywhere, high tension for more top end. (I only run the high tension) $55 bucks the stockers are probably shot anyway. http://www.carbontech.com/motor/honda.html

Make up a carburator T-vent kit, you need X2 brass barbed Tee fittings from a aquarium store (About $3 bucks each) grab 6 feet of 1/8" clear neopreme hose, the best stuff comes from Sudco it doesn't get stiff from fuel. (Not necessary)
http://www.sudco.com/

Make a short line coming out of both carb. vents, then the Tee fitting, then run the lines like normal 3" below the motor, then run lines from the top side of the Tee fittings up and over the carb and back down the opposite sides, zip tie the hoses together with small good quality ties (This mod is important) once the hoses are ran out of the bottom of the motor cut them at a 45 degree angle with the short side facing the axle.

Man, that is tough to explain in print (Let me know if you have questions)

The stock carb. will leak fuel out of the vent lines on jumps, whoops or hitting something hard then it will bog & run rich until the fuel is sucked back into the carb, this mod cures the issue. (You can buy a kit, but the DIY mod is better)

the stock jetting is not good, here is the fix.
Carb jetting-
Supreme unleaded fuel, I like Shell brand
You must run synthetic pre-mix (Unless you love cleaning the HPP power valves) 40:1 ratio. I like Amsoil, Motul or Torco is good as well.
58 pilot
Stock #6 slide
1468N needle which is no longer available from Honda- Here is the replacement for a lot less money.
https://jetsrus.com/individual_parts/017_031_su.html
Main jet 168 (Use only Keihin jets)
Air screw 1.5 turns out
Zero idle for best performance, these engines don't like to idle. (Adjust the choke knob down)

Clutch-
Use Barnett steel clutch plates (Will work better than stock on a trike)
http://www.barnettclutches.com/135/honda/0/0/1994-honda-cr125r.html
Use the stock friction plates, never aftermarket.
Use the stock clutch springs, replace them they sack out $15 buck is cheap insurance.
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-22401-KA3-710.html
Use synthetic Dextron lll fluid in the transmission

The stock silencer is very good, but better with mods cut the case down on the backside 2" along with the core, repack the crap out of it hold the wrap down with masking tape and struggle to get it back together. (Drill new holes for the end cap) Excellent, free mod. the best aftermarket replacement is a DEP's (I prefer the stocker)

The stock pipe is insanely good, try to find one cheap.
The best overall pipe is a DEP's
The best upper mid to top end pipe is a Messico (Hard to buy, comes from Italy)
The worst is a PC, and no the factory Honda and/or Peak bikes did not run the PC pipe that the public got.

Only run the stock spark plug (NGK BR9EG) spit in the cap. :lol:

Try to run the stock CR airbox and boot, if it doesn't fit fab a air box and use just the air box boot. (Important) Please don't run a pod filter. That engine is tuned to the boot.

If you want more top end send me the carb and I will bore it to 38mm and give you some new jetting specs.

Twin Air makes the best air filters

This engine is very sensitive to power valve tension it must have 2-3mm of tension on the throttle side spring or it will run like crap.

Just keep it a 125, a big bore 144/150 stroker is not needed.

You can re ring the piston 2-3 times if you run good premix.

Mod the intake side of the piston by drilling a 12mm hole (Or close) dead center 10mm below the bottom ring land. (Great mod., cheap)

Mod the exhaust side of the piston by drilling a 1/16" hole 12mm below the bottom ring land, then 10mm below that hole.

Deburr all holes, this can be done on a good used stock piston that is in good shape- stock or Pro-X makes the best pistons (The casted pistons are better than forged)

Polish the exhaust port. (Free, don't hit the power valve guides)

The stock ignition timing is excellent, don't touch it.

Machine the spark plug boss down 1mm, the stock set-up shrouds the spark plug

If you ever find a Bill's pipe, buy it and I will show you how to build a engine that will be so fast it will feel like it is hitched to the back of a 250.

You will now be running clean and at about 38-39HP, a bit more than a 200X! LOL

Let me know if you have any questions.

[Jmoozy27]

Tons of solid info...
You will now be running clean and at about 38-39HP, a bit more than a 200X! LOL

Let me know if you have any questions.

Roger that ol buddy, I'll start collectively acquiring everything now. As for the current setup, if the motor starts once the trike is rideable then I will start from there. I've made the mistake of modding a motor before ever running it and tuning during break in of a new cylinder. Luckily everything worked out but it was a task I rather not do again unless I have to. I want this one to grow with me so I can learn it throughout. Thanks for all of the help.

[Jmoozy27]

I modded the top mounts from the CR and they should give it a nice OEM lookhttp://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224264&stc=1

[onformula1]

Unreal, fits like a glove.

Looks factory, great job.

[Jmoozy27]

Coil mount is done. Man this chit is getting to fun:crazy: I may just move into the back yard.shens
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224284&stc=1http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224285&stc=1

[oscarmayer]

looks nice. coming along really well!!!!

[onformula1]

looks nice. coming along really well!!!!

Somebody is in the lead and it's not you, Mike choppy, choppy! :lol:

[Jmoozy27]

I got the rad mounts finished. May need to shave the shrouds a bit.http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224627&stc=1http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224628&stc=1

[ironchop]

+1 on trimming the scoops

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

[onformula1]

I would wait on the trimming until you are a bit further along, but you could order a set of the for $20 bucks.

224629

[Jmoozy27]

I would wait on the trimming until you are a bit further along, but you could order a set of the for $20 bucks.

224629

I may get those or I may go with something custom

[Jmoozy27]

Put a few coats on the swinger todayhttp://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224664&stc=1

[Ol Deuce]

Looking Good:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:drool::Bounce:Bou nce:drool: Ol Deuce

[onformula1]

That arm sure is purdy, now I am thinking I should have ordered a extra set of stickies.

[Jmoozy27]

I'm gonna find something to put on it. Should I put clear over the sticker?

[onformula1]

Hmmmm, I kinda like my idea.

Or this?

224678

[Jmoozy27]

The only thing is its not a pro link. I was thinking of the '94 swinger sticker. I think it reads '125r' I'll have to look. Might go custom on this one.

[onformula1]

The only thing is its not a pro link. I was thinking of the '94 swinger sticker. I think it reads '125r' I'll have to look. Might go custom on this one.

Yeah, I know just playing, I always liked those stickers, cool looking.

[Jmoozy27]

Yeah, I know just playing, I always liked those stickers, cool looking.

Trust me I considered it even though it would be false. But then I started looking for something that would fit better and give it a one of a kind true factory look. Still nothing though...:wondering

[barnett468]

Should I put clear over the sticker?

I wouldn't because some clears clear can cause some stickers to lift on the edges, so the safest thing is to put them over the clear . . Also, if the sticker has clear on it and it gets scratched, it is a lot bigger mess to replace it if it is cleared.

[onformula1]

Sometimes it's fun to play-

Yoshimura
Cal-Fab
Westcoast
HRC
CR125R
Honda
Pro-Link
Something in Japanese characters
12,000 RPM's and counting
4 strokes truck, 2 strokes suck them up!
If you can read this sticker call 911
My other ride is BAD too!
So you think 250cc will be enough, do you?
WFO, I use the clutch to feed the power
2 Stroke- Fast & Furious
Warning, I ride on 2 wheels!
Yes, my 200X sounds a bit different

[oscarmayer]

Haha
Well I need to start getting my stuff ready.


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[Jmoozy27]

I think I figured what I'm gonna do for the rear brake since the rear kick would hit the MC if it was on the original mount. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224911&stc=1http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224912&stc=1

I machine mounts for the MC behind the frame and will use all of the CR equipment.

[onformula1]

Nice, you will love how the CR brakes work.

[Jmoozy27]

Nice, you will love how the CR brakes work.

When the rain passes I'm hoping to get some paint on the frame...

[Ol Deuce]

It's coming right along!!! Looking good ! I like the low mounting of the rear master! kinda cool!!

[oscarmayer]

before you use that master, look at the Yamaha YZF250 master. the fill tank is built in so no extra hose or anything. and it is nearly the same size.

[Jmoozy27]

before you use that master, look at the Yamaha YZF250 master. the fill tank is built in so no extra hose or anything. and it is nearly the same size.

Thanks mike I'll check and see if there are any on peebay...

[onformula1]

Thanks mike I'll check and see if there are any on peebay...
YZ450F works too.

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

What about the crf450? Are they similar?

[onformula1]

YZ450F works too.

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk
I have not had one in my hands for a while, not sure either way.

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[oscarmayer]

What about the crf450? Are they similar?

I think they have a external res if I re all which is why we chose the yami


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[sweetip2000]

If you have a propane torch you can fire up that frame about a foot at a time and the paint will fall off like dandruff with a wire brush right down to the bare metal. No grinding or sanding. btw the epoxy paint from valspar is impervious to gasoline and oil and you can brush it on but be careful it runs....... .... awesome job and keep up the great work.....

[Jmoozy27]

If you have a propane torch you can fire up that frame about a foot at a time and the paint will fall off like dandruff with a wire brush right down to the bare metal. No grinding or sanding. btw the epoxy paint from valspar is impervious to gasoline and oil and you can brush it on but be careful it runs....... .... awesome job and keep up the great work.....

Thanks, I blasted the frame to remove the paint. I will be using krylon cover max, banner red for the frame.

[Jmoozy27]

I think they have a external res if I re all which is why we chose the yami


I was just wandering because I saw this and it looks like it will fit

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/121777626184

[onformula1]

I was just wandering because I saw this and it looks like it will fit

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/121777626184

It looks like it, but that is Chinese.

I would rather have a used Nissin, but that's how I roll.

[Jmoozy27]

It looks like it, but that is Chinese.

I would rather have a used Nissin, but that's how I roll.

Yeah, I figured for the price that it was worth a shot. But to think of it the way mine will be mounted probably wouldn't work well being that the mounts make the MC lean. I need the res to be as flat a possible.

[onformula1]

Yeah, I figured for the price that it was worth a shot. But to think of it the way mine will be mounted probably wouldn't work well being that the mounts make the MC lean. I need the res to be as flat a possible.

Keep in mind, your set-up will work fine if you think the reservoir is the problem- it is a sealed system and the res gets over filled with brake fluid to the point when you put the rubber diaphragm/cap on fluid should leak out all over the place, that way if the bike/trike is leaned to the side or upside down the brake does not get contaminated with air.

The reservoir can be mounted to the bars if you install a long enough hose. :lol:

[onformula1]

I forgot, Oscar Mayer is just trying to slow you down because you are smoking him on this build...HAHAHA! :lol:

Choppy, Choppy! Mike, take off the skirt.

[86125m]

Hey Jmosy I used a similar rear master cylendar on my 84 200x however I had to make an adapter plate for it to mount. It works great just was heck to bleed.

[Jmoozy27]

Hey Jmosy I used a similar rear master cylendar on my 84 200x however I had to make an adapter plate for it to mount. It works great just was heck to bleed.

Yeah, those Chinese masters work but they are a mother in law to bleed. When you get a minute do you think that you could measure the distance center to center of the mounting holes?

[oldskool83]

I told people years ago what master to bolt up with no issues. 04+ YFZ450 egg the holes and bolt up. BAM!!!!!!!!

Screw that Chinese crap...its cheap for a reason.

12 pages are the frames not done yet c'mon man! I'm working on 4 machines and building a bike lol.

[Jmoozy27]

I told people years ago what master to bolt up with no issues. 04+ YFZ450 egg the holes and bolt up. BAM!!!!!!!!

Screw that Chinese crap...its cheap for a reason.

12 pages are the frames not done yet c'mon man! I'm working on 4 machines and building a bike lol.

Physically working on them, or having them worked on???:lol: I'm just making sure that everything is done right the first time brother. I'm a family man first and a trike enthusiast right after that.:beer

[oldskool83]

I come home, work on hour 1 hour eat then go in garage. I'm working on 4 at time right now. It's burning me out. I'm butting up my rear end and suspension right now.

[oscarmayer]

yep! I did not realize they went to tankless! sweet!!

[Jmoozy27]

I come home, work on hour 1 hour eat then go in garage. I'm working on 4 at time right now. It's burning me out. I'm butting up my rear end and suspension right now.

That's good, mine are similar but these 70 hour work weeks have been putting me back a bit. Haven't had a weekend off in 2 months. I'm not complaining though.

[oldskool83]

GET MONEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! buy veal parm subs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[86125m]

Hey Jmosy Here is the link to the exact master CYLINDER I used. It has the measurements listed in the pics. www.ebay.com/sch/aply20/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

[Jmoozy27]

All that was on the link was a search list.

[Jmoozy27]

Naked and Afraid
225032
She hasn't been outside in months...

[Jmoozy27]

Partially clothed now... 2 coats
225035
I plan on spraying a final coat tomorrow

[Jmoozy27]

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225037&stc=1

[onformula1]

I thought it was going to be white?

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[Jmoozy27]

I thought it was going to be white?


I changed to flash red around post #119, you commented on it...:wondering

[onformula1]

Sorry, been a while, does it match the tank?

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

It's pretty damn close. The tank is dirty but I think after some polishing it should mesh well.

[oldskool83]

White will get soooo dirty. I remember my old CR's looked great then 1 or 2 rides and looked like aminal fecal fatter all over the frame. Red is a good color, gray is a good color and so is black. Much other then that nothing is good. I was going to do red but went with black incase I get bored with red plastics I can switch out and not use my frame as color, only use plastics.

One of these days I'd love to have a group order of Silver or gray 200X plastics.

[Jmoozy27]

Final coat is on.. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225109&stc=1

[Jmoozy27]

Swingarm decals are in...http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225238&stc=1

[ironchop]

I like those alot

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

Better pic of the swinger. I'm gonna start assembling everything this week.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225253&stc=1

[Jmoozy27]

Motor and swinger are in the frame...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225354&stc=1http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225355&stc=1

[John_Neary]

frame sure did turn out nice

[Ol Deuce]

It does look nice and the engine sure fits nice !...Job well done ! When is the ride report coming !!!:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce Tehehe Ol Deuce:D

[Jmoozy27]

It does look nice and the engine sure fits nice !...Job well done ! When is the ride report coming !!!:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce Tehehe Ol Deuce:D

It will be soon. Still waiting on a few things. Ordered a seat cover today. Haven't even thought about what fenders to use. I'm thinking white, but oem, no maiers...

I got around to weighing everything that is assembled and I'm hoping these results are a sample of what is to come.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225362&stc=1http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225363&stc=1

[ironchop]

How far is it from South LA to Laurel Indiana?

That's gonna be quick as hell. 125 pingers are way underrated.

[onformula1]

How far is it from South LA to Laurel Indiana?

That's gonna be quick as hell. 125 pingers are way underrated.

Oh boy, Mr. Ironchop I have taken some serious crap for stating a modern CR125 engine and it's light weight will hang with a 250r, they must be over rated.

[onformula1]

Add in 21 lbs. for a complete set of forks & shock.

[ironchop]

Hahaha! I'm just a dumb hillbilly. You just nevermind the silly things I say.

I thrashed my neighbor's RM125 for a long time. It was so flickable and light, I entertained trying to ride a wooden half pipe on it but the wifey blew up.

[onformula1]

Hahaha! I'm just a dumb hillbilly. You just nevermind the silly things I say.

I thrashed my neighbor's RM125 for a long time. It was so flickable and light, I entertained trying to ride a wooden half pipe on it but the wifey blew up.

I don't care what you say a 125 can not beat a 450 and a 450 smokes a 250r,,, That's what I have read on the internet. :lol:

Maybe your results are different? :lol:

[ironchop]

I'm not sure. I'll ask Facebook. They would know.

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

How far is it from South LA to Laurel Indiana?.

Give or take, about 15 hours;) I plan on giving it everything I have to get out there this year.

[Jmoozy27]

Add in 21 lbs. for a complete set of forks & shock.

I'll weigh the wheels tomorrow. Just for the record, I found out yesterday that the entire motor fits nicely into a milk crate.:crazy:

[onformula1]

I'll weigh the wheels tomorrow. Just for the record, I found out yesterday that the entire motor fits nicely into a milk crate.:crazy:

For a engine with close to 37 HP box stock with a 6 speed and power valve, they are incredibly small and light.

These would look very cute on her rear. :lol:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C94AYQ0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_5&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[Jmoozy27]

For a engine with close to 37 HP box stock with a 6 speed and power valve, they are incredibly small and light.

These would look very cute on her rear. :lol:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C94AYQ0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_5&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Those look nice, cheap too!!!

[onformula1]

Those look nice, cheap too!!!

I didn't find them- Mr. John Neary told me about them and he would know, so I listen, passing them on.

They seem perfect for a tittler to me.

[John_Neary]

those Kenda tires look nice, they where the only non Carlisle tires i considered for my Rotax

225374

looks like a perfect close course tire to me, with a few grooves it would work great even on loose soil

you should consider a fiberglass rear fender if you can run one down, so nice having a rear deck you can put some weight on with out it just flexing down onto the tire

[Jmoozy27]

those Kenda tires look nice, they where the only non Carlisle tires i considered for my Rotax

225374

looks like a perfect close course tire to me, with a few grooves it would work great even on loose soil

you should consider a fiberglass rear fender if you can run one down, so nice having a rear deck you can put some weight on with out it just flexing down onto the tire

I have been looking for a good fiberglass rear fender. I think yaegerb had one a few months ago. Not sure if he still has it.

[oldskool83]

not sure what your gonna ride in but I bought duro berm radier 18's for coal rocks. Going to mount them right now. And an OEM looking ish front tire too

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291437796865?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-23-5x8-00-11-Wanda-Journey-P321-ATV-TIRE-rep-23-8-11-23x8-11-24-8-11-24x8-11-/270924210634?hash=item3f145761ca:g:LCcAAOxyYYlRxcQ Z&vxp=mtr

[Jmoozy27]

I had to machine some new brackets for the head mounts. They are rough now, but they will look better once complete.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225402&stc=1

I did run into a little fork I the road. I will start a new thread for feedback.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225403&stc=1
I definitely overlooked that:wondering

[Scootertrash]

It will be soon. Still waiting on a few things. Ordered a seat cover today. Haven't even thought about what fenders to use. I'm thinking white, but oem, no maiers...

I got around to weighing everything that is assembled and I'm hoping these results are a sample of what is to come.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225363&stc=1

I believe you have that rear axle mounted in the wrong place. I'm not trying to tell you what to do.....jus sayin'

[DohcBikes]

Dude. It's custom.

[Jmoozy27]

I believe you have that rear axle mounted in the wrong place. I'm not trying to tell you what to do.....jus sayin'

Just trying to do something new:crazy:

[bad to the bone]

cool build. That atc125 is going to look killer when done.

[Jmoozy27]

Got more weight specs

Frame+motor+rear axle+swingarm= 102
Suspension= 21
Wheels+hubs= 69

192lbs

[oldskool83]

just do a final weight....until you to your just ball parking it.

[Jmoozy27]

just do a final weight....until you to your just ball parking it.

How do you weigh yours?

[DohcBikes]

Bathroojm scale under one tire 2x lumber chunk under the other two to bring them up to the same height as the one on the scale, rotate till you have 3 numbers then add.

Pointless until its completely done.

[oldskool83]

pallet jack with a scale at work or take it to the landfill, get your weight in and weight out and you have your toys weight if you don't throw it away.

[onformula1]

Got more weight specs

Frame+motor+rear axle+swingarm= 102
Suspension= 21
Wheels+hubs= 69

192lbs
You are doing great, many MX guys weight it like you are, if you pick up some different parts later you will know where your at.

You will still need a final weight. I am still guessing 258 lbs. dry.

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[Jmoozy27]

Top mounts are complete
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225798&stc=1

[Jmoozy27]

Distance from carb to airbox is about a foot, I start checking parts houses in town but still haven't found the right boot I may have to just be a little creative.
225802

[Jmoozy27]

I got a surprise from El postino
225838225839
The chamber is legit but I don't know enough to say if the silencer is genuine. I'm hoping that y'all can help me with that.:wondering

[John_Neary]

i never used any of Bill's dirt bike products but that looks like a Pro Circuit silencer and since Bill makes all the 2 stroke pipes and silencers for Pro Circuit id say it legit enough

[onformula1]

It is a Bill's silencer

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[Jmoozy27]

Awesome, not that it would have bothered me that much if it wasn't genuine. I definitely thought it was genuine. It's just so shiny!!!

[Jmoozy27]

Bill pipe modded and mounted
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225959&stc=1

[John_Neary]

gonna be fun

[Jmoozy27]

A few more NOS items to be used...
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225990&stc=1
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225991&stc=1

[John_Neary]

it deserves a low profile fiberglass fender :)

[bkm]

it deserves a low profile fiberglass fender :)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/bee91a3ccee0f26388260ee42b578ac6.jpg

I've got a new set cheap.

[Jmoozy27]

it deserves a low profile fiberglass fender :)

I will keep my eyes open for one in the future. These will do for now. Plus it matches the tank almost exactly. These vintage Cali maiers seem so much stronger than the new ones.

[Jmoozy27]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/bee91a3ccee0f26388260ee42b578ac6.jpg

I've got a new set cheap.

Damn, how did I miss those??

[bkm]

$200 plus shipping

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[oldskool83]

any reason you your not using 2nd gen 200x fenders on that frame?

[Jmoozy27]

any reason you your not using 2nd gen 200x fenders on that frame?

I rather not use the newer maiers, they match the tank, oem 2nd gen is rather hard to find and expensive.

[86125m]

No complaints here with the new Maier on my 84 200x they fit perfectly and are plenty sturdy just as strong as my bikes with OEM of fenders and the new red they use is almost perfect match for passion red

Sent from my KFFOWI using Tapatalk

[Jmoozy27]

No complaints here with the new Maier on my 84 200x they fit perfectly and are plenty sturdy just as strong as my bikes with OEM of fenders and the new red they use is almost perfect match for passion red

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My scheme is not passion red but more of a flash red and these are a good match and a much better product than the maier product sold currently. Take a skip west across the river and check them out, you will be impressed with the craftsmanship of these.

[onformula1]

My scheme is not passion red but more of a flash red and these are a good match and a much better product than the maier product sold currently. Take a skip west across the river and check them out, you will be impressed with the craftsmanship of these.

Wow, I am surprised that frame is strong enough to hold that exhaust up. :lol:

The old Maier fenders were stiffer and thicker, but they also tend to crack out at any holes, the new stuff cracks out less.

On some trikes and quads some guys would use CR rubber grommets and aluminum inserts to stop that.

[oscarmayer]

On some trikes and quads some guys would use CR rubber grommets and aluminum inserts to stop that.

shhh stop telling my secretes milner!!!!! ;)

[DohcBikes]

Wow, I am surprised that frame is strong enough to hold that exhaust up. :lol:
What do you know? Do you have any three wheelers with modified frames or are you just mocking others with experience again such as you did in the gas line thread? I know everyone thinks you're this blessed floating deity of some sort but I can see right through the snarkiness.

Only somebody that doesnt want people to have two sides to information would pm people just to disagree with somebody elses opinion.

Any updates on the build?

Still trying to figure out how to get that clutch to slip all the time:lol::rolleyes::banned:

[El Camexican]

What do you know? Do you have any three wheelers with modified frames or are you just mocking others with experience again such as you did in the gas line thread? I know everyone thinks you're this blessed floating deity of some sort but I can see right through the snarkiness.

Only somebody that doesnt want people to have two sides to information would pm people just to disagree with somebody elses opinion.

Any updates on the build?

Still trying to figure out how to get that clutch to slip all the time:lol::rolleyes::banned:

Wow!!!!!
226690

[DohcBikes]

What can I say, it's my birthday.

Just cannot stand somebody that acts that way then expects to be held in high regard. If he's gonna bite ankles he needs to bite harder or give up altogether.

[oldskool83]

I'd like to see updates...I'd like to update mine but 1 person is holding me up last 2 months with....I'll work on it next week horse crap.

[Jmoozy27]

What do you know? Do you have any three wheelers with modified frames or are you just mocking others with experience again such as you did in the gas line thread? I know everyone thinks you're this blessed floating deity of some sort but I can see right through the snarkiness.

Only somebody that doesnt want people to have two sides to information would pm people just to disagree with somebody elses opinion.

Any updates on the build?

Still trying to figure out how to get that clutch to slip all the time:lol::rolleyes::banned:

I'll appreciate it if you criticize other members in your own thread or there's. Please keep the criticism directed towards the build.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226700&stc=1

No major updates, seat and rear fender are mounted. Finally got some 8" aluminum rear rims locally. I forgot how hard it is to find tires for 9" rims.

[Jmoozy27]

What can I say, it's my birthday.

Well then... Happy birthday!

[onformula1]

shhh stop telling my secretes milner!!!!! ;)

Sorry, Bro it will not happen again. :lol:

My buddies (Including you) know me for the guy that runs a lot of CR stuff, just sharing a tip.

[onformula1]

I'll appreciate it if you criticize other members in your own thread or there's. Please keep the criticism directed towards the build.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226700&stc=1

No major updates, seat and rear fender are mounted. Finally got some 8" aluminum rear rims locally. I forgot how hard it is to find tires for 9" rims.

Nice, I dig the bars, kill switch, front master cylinder and clutch lever... major upgrade in the controls department.

Sweet pipe, Doug Henry flew with one of those.