YT175 Clutch

[ddiggerr]

Hello again ,

I am having a slight issue with the clutch slipping and the rebuild. I am also getting confused with the way it should be adjusted.

On one side I have read that the Haynes manual says to tighten the inner nut until the bolt can't be turned with your fingers but has no thrust play. then tighten the outer nut against the inner nut.

On the other side, the manual I have downloaded from the link on this site, it says ... while holding nut 1 (outer nut), tighten the bolt until tight and lock it with nut 2 (inner nut). If the bolt can be turned lightly with your fingers and has no thrust play, the adjustment is correct.

if I use the Haynes manual method, then it actually tightens, but the clutch still slips when in gear.

If I use the second method, when I turn that bolt to tighten, then both nuts just end up spinning off, because if I tighten then the nuts are actually being backed off.

I have searched all over, but there is no absolute way of adjusting this properly with these 2 methods, unless I am missing something.

Can someone explain this more clearly. I have opened this cover atleast a dozen times and making slight adjustments here and there and closing it up to test only to get first gear to move the bike, but that is the only gear I have managed to move me, but not 100%

Thanks

[RubberSalt]

How many steel balls are in the clutch?

[ddiggerr]

How many steel balls are in the clutch?

16 balls.

I found another posting online that states to tighten bolt then back off 1/8 - 1/4 turn

This also doesnt work. Very confusing

[RubberSalt]

These clutches are designed to slip at lower rpm. From mid to higher,they grab. The balls sling out due to centrifugal force to engage the clutches.

I've always just tightened the nut up to where it just gets a hair harder,then I snug the 2nd 1 up.

[dgm635csi]

Tighten the inner nut on the bolt until you feel it begin to tighten, then hold everything in place and tighten the jam nut onto the adjuster nut. You should still be able to turn the bolt with your fingers, but there should be slight resistance. There should be no thrust play when you push or pull on the bolt. If you tighten the nut much further, you will begin to compress the clutch springs inside the pressure plate assembly. If you compress these springs, they will not be able to provide as much force against the clutch pack when the ball bearings (centrifugal weights) spread out, and create pressure on the other side of the clutch pack.

As far as slippage goes, the clutch should slip at idle in gear without stalling the engine, and should slip for a short period of time at low rpms while the trike begins to accelerate and rpms build. The clutch should not slip at low to mid rpms and higher in any gear. To solve all my clutch slipping issues on my yt175, I did the following: I Installed Vesrah heavy duty clutch springs with new EBC friction disks, scuffed up all the steel clutch plates with 200 grit metal grade sandpaper on both sides, installed all the steel clutch plates facing one direction (rounded side out), adjusted clutch properly, and used a good wet clutch compatible engine oil.

My clutch now works how it should, and does not slip under load through all 5 gears.

Also, my stock 1983 yt175 has 8 balls inside the clutch. The yt125's has 16 balls inside the clutch most likely to compensate for a lower primary reduction ratio (clutch spins slower).

[ddiggerr]

Should I remove 8 balls?

The lower half of engine is from a 125 and top end being that of a 175.

[RubberSalt]

removing the weights will let it rev higher before fully engaging, it'll have more slippage. I removed 2 (leaving 6 balls) in my 175. It was similar to having a higher stall in an automatic car.

[dgm635csi]

If the bottom end is from a ytm125, I would not remove any balls. All 16 are probably required to provide adequate pressure on the clutch pack.

[akeemb86]

Where did you order the heavy duty clutch springs from???

[ddiggerr]

Tighten the inner nut on the bolt until you feel it begin to tighten, then hold everything in place and tighten the jam nut onto the adjuster nut.

This is what confuses me. If I tighten the inner nut, that actually loosens the entire assembly.

So what your actually saying, is to turn the inner nut counter clockwise until the bolt starts to tighten, or hold the inner nut and use a screwdriver to tighten the bolt while holding the inner nut until the bolt begins to tighten, then lock it all in place with outer nut????

Wish there was a how to video on this adjustment. Searched but didn't find one.

[RubberSalt]

I don't think anything other than the flywheel puller is rotated counter clockwise to tighten. I'm trying to recall the process In my head, it's been a few years.. Do you have the Yamaha manual?

[dgm635csi]

I ordered Vesrah heavy duty clutch springs, vesrah part number SK-203. http://www.hyperparts.com/wc.dll?ctwp~getxref~1001~1002~1~probrand~1~Vesrah~ SK-203. They are listed in the vesrah catalogue to fit all tri moto 125's and 175's.

They are much stiffer than stock springs, and it will be difficult to reassemble the pressure plate assembly when you install them. I hade to put mine in a vice for assistance. It is also more difficult to reinstall the large retainer clip on the clutch basket after you install these springs.

Hold the bolt with your fingers to start, or with a screwdriver to keep it from spinning so that you can tighten the inner nut against the shifter pawl guide. Once the slack on the bolt is removed by tightening the inner nut (no thrust play), hold the inner nut and bolt in place to keep them from moving as you install the locknut. If you overtighten the inner nut, you are compressing the pressure plate assembly which will reduce the clamping force on the clutch assembly provided by the 16 thrust balls.

When you shift gears, the assembly that bolts to the clutch cover with the 3 captured ball bearings (shifter pawl assembly)is rotated by the shifter shaft. This expands the shifter pawl assembly, which pulls the adjuster bolt outwards, and compresses the pressure plate assembly momentarily when shifting. This allows the clutch to slip while shifting.

[akeemb86]

Thanks just ordered them .......what wet clutch do you suggest??

[dgm635csi]

I used EBC friction disks, but Vesrah are also good as are OEM. I'm sure there are others. Everything available for the yt175/125 is just impregnated cork friction material. I was not able to find anything fancy like Kevlar etc.

[akeemb86]

Ok my bad I meant what oil are you using????

[dgm635csi]

Sorry, I am currently using Amsoil 10w40 motorcycle oil. Clutch works great so far. I ran the piss out of the yt175 at the dunes in Christmas Valley 2 weeks ago, and had no clutch issues. I might try Bel Ray gear saver because that's what I run in my atc250r tranny, and CR500 tranny. I use the Amsoil in everything else; xr600r, V65 Sabre, Moto Guzzi V11 lemans (engine only), CT70.

[ddiggerr]

Well I went out again and tinkered with it a bit more. Followed the clutch set up in previous post. I still think it needs a bit of tweeking. It takes off in first quick but feels like it is still slipping in the other gears. Also making a whining noise while in gear and every time I shift into neutral, the revs pickup and engine starts screaming. I have to kill it. No idea why this is happening.

[akeemb86]

Thanks dgm635csi I dunno if they sell amsoil in Canada but I'll see....and ddigger what's your fuel mixture?

[ddiggerr]

Thanks dgm635csi I dunno if they sell amsoil in Canada but I'll see....and ddigger what's your fuel mixture?

Straight fuel in tank. Running with oil tank and pump.

[akeemb86]

Bypass the pump and mix your gas 32:1 because you never know when that pump will fail then you SOL death revving can come from to lean of gas

[ddiggerr]

Bypass the pump and mix your gas 32:1 because you never know when that pump will fail then you SOL death revving can come from to lean of gas

For now I am confident the pump is working as I did forget to rehhok the oil line back onto carb when I cleaned it. While pulling rope there was oil flowing.

I figure it has to be a little lean. At first I thought I had run out of fuel. It might be the idle screw as it seems a little wobbly when screwed in. I can adjust the idle, but after a short rip around the yard and then back into neutral it is screaming again.