Exhaust Bolts Snapped in Head. FUN!!

[Yamaha3wheeler]

This bolt was turning before it snapped the head. It has about 1 to 2/16 sticking out of the head. Vice grips are tough to get on this one. I'm thinking I will need an extractor bit. The 5/64 bit seems like it would be a good fit. Opinions?

The other was frozen completely. It has about 1/4 inch sticking out now that the head is gone. I can definitely get vice grips on this one.

Should I use a head gun? How long do I hold a head gun to it? I do not want to melt the alum. What wattage?

I used pb blaster but it didn't work too well.

Should I just go with a bolt extractor?

Anyone been through this? How would you handle?> Any advice would be so greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[madmass]

I had that issue a while back on my 110. Found this stuff called knock'er loose by CRC. Used a pair of snubbed needle nose vice grips and a small propane torch. They came out pretty quick. The knock'er loose worked better than any product I've found yet. Just added heat on and off till they broke loose.

[ebaccm26]

Don't worry you won't melt anything lol. You will need a torch though, I can't imagine a heat gun would be sufficient. Use your judgement and heat it until you think it is hot enough, and then heat it some more. Make sure you are heating the head at the base of the stud and not just the part of the stud that is sticking out. I have never had a stud that was sticking out enough to grab that did not come out with the use of heat.

Just drill the other one out and tap the hole.

[ironchop]

too bad you don`t have a welder....or do you?

with that much sticking out, at work we find a nut with a slightly larger ID than the stud, slip it over the stud, and weld a dab right in the center of the nut and stud. when it cools off, grab a wrench and take it loose. I would also use penetrating oil soak beforehand as mentioned above just as an additional measure

[Yamaha3wheeler]

I have a 1000 degree heat gun. Will that really not do the job? I'm afraid to use a torch as I wouldn't want to melt the head. I know that the torch I have would melt a coke can within a second. Of course, the head material is much thicker.

I would rather be safe than sorry , but if I'm just wizzing in the wind so to speak, I'll use the torch.

[Yamaha3wheeler]

I have a mig welder. I think I'm going to weld a nut on it.

Anyone have any tips on how to weld on a nut to the stud.

Never done this before. It is as easy as holding a nut a the end and tacking it?

I need as many details as possible.

Thanks!

[Samjp22]

Do as ironchop said about welding it

[trikeguy2014]

I use easy outs work for me typically it's just a type of bolt extractor... You drill a hole in the bolt then just turn the easy out in reverse to remove the bolt

[Jmoozy27]

If you don't want to use a cutting torch or rosebud, I often use a propane torch to get the job done. That will never melt the head. Where in Louisiana are you?

[onformula1]

I have a mig welder. I think I'm going to weld a nut on it.

Anyone have any tips on how to weld on a nut to the stud.

Never done this before. It is as easy as holding a nut a the end and tacking it?

I need as many details as possible.

Thanks!

Before you weld a nut on, tap the stud with a roll pin punch (Flat round headed punch) a few times that with break it loose a bit, don't pound and damage the threads.

With a 1 1/8" sticking out just clean up the end of the threads, thread a nut down till it bottoms (correct size) and weld the nut to the stud at the top, to the inner part of the nut, use deep penetration :lol: don't just tack it, then use a box ended wrench or if you didn't make a welding mess a socket it unscrew it.

Now go get that helmet on.

[Frankencelery]

You can hold a propane torch on that head for 5 minutes and it won't melt it! I've done this every possible wrong way that you can, so I can certainly say what doesn't work. It DOESN'T work to heat the stud only. That just makes it soft and it will twist off even more easily than it probably already will. And me and easy outs have a rocky history. I think it's 50% good, 50% breaking the easy out in the hole and now I have a hardened piece of sh*t inside the hole where the stud used to be. :lol:

[Chopsaw]

We used to use reverse drill bits , that cut counter clockwise . In effect turning the broken bolt in the direction needed to back it out as you drill the hole .

[jb2wheels]

...And me and easy outs have a rocky history. I think it's 50% good, 50% breaking the easy out in the hole and now I have a hardened piece of sh*t inside the hole where the stud used to be. :lol:

Me too. I threw all my EZ outs away after about the 3rd round of this. Never again. I'd rather grind them off and drill them out. Even if it's off center I can make it work but I'll never get that EZ out chunk out.

I like heat and reverse bits.

I've tried welding a nut on but I suck as a welder so that's hasn't worked.

[Dirtcrasher]

If you can't get it out, don't ruin the hole; Send it to me and I'll get it out on the Bridgeport milling machine for a fair price.

[YamaBoss]

Me too. I threw all my EZ outs away after about the 3rd round of this. Never again. I'd rather grind them off and drill them out. Even if it's off center I can make it work but I'll never get that EZ out chunk out.

I like heat and reverse bits.

I've tried welding a nut on but I suck as a welder so that's hasn't worked.

Dad always warned me about easy outs, heard lots of stories of guys at work breaking them off... Never going to try it and would never tell anyone to use one.

[onformula1]

This is the best IMHO extractor set, they don't snap off inside the bolt.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/84968866

[86 350x]

Funny how I see this post, just broke both exhaust studs off in my Atc 70 head
Drilled a hole used my brand new reverse extractor snap now I'm screwed harden steel pos in my stud hole,
Not sure why I evened used them iv used easy outs with the same outcome

[onformula1]

Heres another one that works-

Heat the area & bolt with a torch Propane or mapp gas then "quench" the bolt treads with a candle, yes a wax candle.

Do this three times then let it cool down, clean off the wax and grab it with a good set of real Vise Grips. (No cheap imitations)

When you put it back together drip the stud or bolt in Anti Seize on all bolts near the exhaust and you will not have this issue next time.

[Dirtcrasher]

Thats why I call them never outs....

[poolieZerUK]

Snap on do a kit that has a guide bush and drill
Bush fits over the stud drill goes in opposite rotation to threads work well
Use them a lot on outboard motors
Take your time and use cutting grease on the drill bit

[yaegerb]

This is the best IMHO extractor set, they don't snap off inside the bolt.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/84968866

That's exactly what I use. Easy outs suck. There is nothing worse than breaking off an easy out in a bolt.

PB blaster is another snake oil product IMO. It's no better than WD-40 if the threads are exposed. The best "penetrating" oil I have used is Kroil.

[Yamaha3wheeler]

Do you guys think it would benefit to try the weld first? Then move to an extractor as a last result. I may take dirtcrasher up on his offer before I screw the hole (didn't sound right). I'm on a roll for screwing things up lately.

[yaegerb]

Do you have a picture of this?

[muthey]

I use left handed drill bit, however before drilling I sand it smooth first then center punch the bolt, and use appropriate sized bit and re-tap the hole to original size. mind you this is done only when I can't put a vise grip on it to extract it. You can try welding a nut to it, but most times it still just snaps off again, and if you are leary about drilling, and tapping definitely send it to Dritcrasher to drill and tap on his mill. The only time easy outs are any good is when the bolt wasn't seized in the hole in the first place. You have to remember you are dealing with a much different quality of aluminum than a pop can so heating it up with a torch to extract the bolt will not melt it. LIke I said if all else fails and you feel you are going to mess it up send it to Dirtchrasher, I would offer my machining services, but not alot of spare time at work to do things lately, and it would take quite awhile for me to do it.

[phantomtracer]

For me, the most important detail as mentioned by muthey is to make sure you dril the bolt at centered and straight as possible. If you sand the bolt smooth, center punch and drill straight you will get it out without damage to the threads. Once the pilot hole is drilled go up in bit sizes slowly, the bolt will become so weak you will be able to remove it by hand.

[onformula1]

Snap on do a kit that has a guide bush and drill
Bush fits over the stud drill goes in opposite rotation to threads work well
Use them a lot on outboard motors
Take your time and use cutting grease on the drill bit

I don't know about the UK, but in the USA for the price of a Snap On kit you could just buy a new engine. "lol"

[Yamaha3wheeler]

Pictures! On the smaller bolt it makes it look like I have more sticking out than I do. It isn't much even to grab on. I could possibly get it with a set of needle nose vice grips, but I'm afraid of snapping it. Don't even ask about the exhaust port hole. The donut part of the exhaust header was seized in there. I can't believe I got it out. I still have to clean it up and remove the rest of the old exhaust gasket. Oh, and this is a 225dx head.


http://i59.tinypic.com/212sje9.jpg

http://i58.tinypic.com/e892yb.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/rkvtdk.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/zyf1jo.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/funewk.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/2rfu2xd.jpg

[oscarmayer]

wow..... that thing is in really rough shape. if it was me, I would probably get another head form ebay and call it a day. I see a lot of corrosion on that head. I learned something long ago. if I snap a bolt in the head and it is in a hard place to deal with or I don't have exactly the machine shop level stuff, I take it to a machine shop and let them deal with it. the $40-$50 to have them remove both studs would save you a ton of heartache and problems.
or spend $60-$75 and get another good head form ebay.

[Yamaha3wheeler]

Most of the mess you see is the gasket in there and the rust left from the steel header. I haven't pulled it yet as I just got the exhaust header off last night. I think I can clean it up decent. If not, I'll take your advice and look for another head.

[onformula1]

Man, I wish you were closer, I would have both out in 10 mins.

Keep in mind that if you happen to drill it out to large by accident or mess up, you can tap the head and run step studs.

I have never snapped a bolt off myself, knock on wood. (CA, Arizona doesn't have a lot of rust) but I have become an expert due to friends. :lol:

Righty tighty, lefty loosey

[yaegerb]

Most of the mess you see is the gasket in there and the rust left from the steel header. I haven't pulled it yet as I just got the exhaust header off last night. I think I can clean it up decent. If not, I'll take your advice and look for another head.

That's tough, but not impossible. Since your down tube is in the way I would pull the motor and get under some good light on a bench. As suggested, sand/file the bolts down smooth to get a clean, straight bolt face. Then get a really sharp punch, place dead Nutz center and create your pilot dimple. Creating this dimple also "shocks" the bolt (I usually do this twice). Then, start drilling with tiny bits and work your way up drilling at very low speeds with plenty of oil until there is about 1/16th or more metal from the outside of the bolt. Then, just spend the money now for a quality extractor set (check out the link onformula1 posted). Take your time with the extractor and it should come right out.