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View Full Version : different brake drums for a honda 110?



tri again
01-03-2015, 06:31 AM
I got the drum off and the shoes were melted.
Looked like mud clumps and probably was some of that too.
so I put on some used shoes and the adjuster was all the way.
So I got new shoes and the drum won't fit over the shoes.

Is there any chance that this trike has an odd drum?
Maybe the 90 atc drums were smaller and this got pieced together?

Thanks

greenhuman
01-03-2015, 08:17 AM
No they are all the same. Make sure there is not a lip on the drum on the inside and near the outer edge. this lip will stop the drum going over new shoes and make sure the adjuster is backed off all the way.

tri again
01-03-2015, 08:43 AM
No they are all the same. Make sure there is not a lip on the drum on the inside and near the outer edge. this lip will stop the drum going over new shoes and make sure the adjuster is backed off all the way.

Old shoes are about the same thickness but have NO idea why one fits but the other won't fit under the drum.
I can't imagine a difference of .020" would matter that much.
The old ones need to be adjusted all the way up to get very little rakes and the new ones are too thick.

I get tunnel vision and need this sold fam emergency type.
Outside temp in the teens doesn't help ether.
Yupp, no drum lip and wire brushed with a drill so it's real clean.
I've had drum lips prevent disassembly before but not this trike.
Maybe missing an adjustment spacer?
as I said, the old shoes were water soak melted into blobs so maybe
time to check another machine that actually works.
Maybe shoe lever got rotated in the past?
but it sure looks in neutral, shoes parallel on the brake actuator. hmmmmm.
wish I had a woodstove powered shop right about now.

danbur55
01-03-2015, 08:56 AM
are they centering on the posts 2nd and 4th pics look as though lower shoe is offcenter some just a thought

shortline10
01-03-2015, 09:12 AM
Grab the shoes with your finger tips and lean them toward the drum slightly while your pushing the drum over the shoes . tap the drum on with a rubber mallet making sure their not to tight . I run into this problem all the time with all makes and models . Do not force them . Make sure the castings are clean on the new shoes at the pivots .

tri again
01-03-2015, 03:01 PM
any idea what year this one is?
no headstock sticker

shortline10
01-03-2015, 07:16 PM
If it has an aluminum rear carrier its an 83 model ... 84/85 have a steel carriers .



any idea what year this one is?
no headstock sticker

Tri-Motor
01-04-2015, 07:09 PM
Is the shift pattern up to upshift or down to upshift?

tri again
01-05-2015, 01:41 PM
Is the shift pattern up to upshift or down to upshift?
I forget.
but will check.

tri again
01-05-2015, 01:43 PM
The different between the old and new shoes is about the thickness of a business card.
I did shine up the round stud mounts of casting flash so that gave mew a few thousandths.
The book recommends chamfering the outside edge of the new shoes btw.

Whoda thought the book would have helped
Old shoes would not adjust up and new ones seem perfect but as I said,
both sets look identical thickness wise.

Oh well, time to fix another one.

greenhuman
01-05-2015, 05:39 PM
You could file or grind down the flat ends of the shoes at the adjuster end to effectively close the diameter a fraction.

trike savior
01-05-2015, 07:13 PM
I have been there. On the horribly muddy and rusty ones I sand the drum with 60 grit sand paper until I see metal on the entire shoe contact area. Also make sure the shoes are completely seated top and bottom. Make sure the adjuster is loose and the pads are flat against the expander.

tri again
01-06-2015, 04:44 PM
Is the shift pattern up to upshift or down to upshift?

Steel carrier and neutral is all the way down.
Wonder if they changed them so that getting on a running trike, you couldn't step on the shifter and go forward on accident.

Tri-Motor
01-06-2015, 05:37 PM
Neutral at the bottom would be a 1985

Tri-Motor
01-06-2015, 05:40 PM
I know Honda switched shift patterns in 85. I know Yamaha from 1982? and newer was neutral at the bottom and 12345 up

DSHOT59
01-06-2015, 10:13 PM
I had the same problem on my 200 with some cheapie brake pads I got off e-bay I had to sand em down a bit, Not much just a little and the drum went on fine.

fabiodriven
01-06-2015, 10:45 PM
Did you disconnect the cable altogether? In your first pic it appears as though the cam is not flat, therefore effectively applying your brakes a little bit. Also, people tend to overlook mechanical drum brakes being infinitely adjustable by simply moving the actuation lever on the cam splines. Get the cam flat, take the lever right off if you want, then put it together, then put the lever wherever it needs to be in order to have maximum adjustability.

83ATC185
01-07-2015, 09:54 AM
, take the lever right off if you want, then put it together, then put the lever wherever it needs to be in order to have maximum adjustability.

This is exactly what i had to do to keep mine from sticking and not returning. That and a new cable and spring that goes on the adjustment end. I also polished the cam with some 1200 grit followed by 2000 grit and greased it. It was sticking but it wasn't even noticeable moving the lever and cam by hand in the shop, but put it together and ride they'd lock up first time.

Also see if the pivot post is bent a little, that could be holding them open just enough to not fit.