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R-N-D
12-30-2014, 10:50 PM
I cannot seem to get any juice to power the electronics. I recently had an issue with my starter in that I was just getting a clicking sound from the battery. I was told to replace the battery to see if that was the issue but since I've now lost all power it seems like. No neutral light, no clicking, no lights, No idea what the hell happened. I replaced the battery and even changed the two fuses near the battery but still nothing. No power to anything. Any suggestions or ideas as to what to do? Should I be checking somewhere or something else? Thanks. Sorry, not well versed in electrical anything!

Jmoozy27
12-31-2014, 12:04 AM
I would check the ignition switch. Just check for any frayed wiring. Sounds like there is a loose connection somewhere. Chances are that the short is somewhere near movement like the steering stem. Just do some in depth visual inspection.

R-N-D
12-31-2014, 12:18 AM
I will check it out. Thanks. Anything else anyone can offer, I'd appreciate it.

oscarmayer
12-31-2014, 06:47 PM
there is a main fuse by the battery, check to ensure it is not damaged or blown. that could cause this.

R-N-D
01-01-2015, 01:24 AM
there is a main fuse by the battery, check to ensure it is not damaged or blown. that could cause this.

Thanks. I actually replaced both fuses located near the battery. Still no luck.

tri again
01-01-2015, 10:11 AM
Thanks. I actually replaced both fuses located near the battery. Still no luck.

I heard of folks changing entire wiring harnesses only to find the old one was ok.
Simply by changing / checking every connection, they magically work.
x2 on the ignition switch.
I had one that wanted to be turned on and then backed off a few thousandths to get a connection.
There is a tutorial with great pix detailing the procedure if you need to take the switch apart and clean contacts.

The 1985 models have a really odd fuse that looks like a miniature end wrench and not clearly marked.
Not sure if that's it but I know they are NOT real obvious in the book and a great way to get stuck far from home.

All my 84 models got transferred to a returning vet for an asparagus farm or I'd go look.
A few of us have swapped many and all known working parts only to get nowhere.
You guessed it, the fix was just time checking all connections.
Thankfully that doesn't cost anything but time.
Pls let us know what you find

Chopsaw
01-01-2015, 10:53 AM
Check the fuse with an ohm meter . I've had new ones that were broke where the link connects to the end cap .

Just gonna ask , was the new battery sealed and charged ? Or did you have to add acid and charge it up ?

Can you hook a battery charger to it and get the lights to work ?

tri again
01-01-2015, 12:35 PM
Maybe even a 99 cent 12 volt test light to see how far power goes from the
battery. see if the battery lights it up by itself, if not, you've got an answer.
If yes, then go down the line to the next connection and so on until you have no voltage.

The place I bought fuses from, how should I say this?

Even stuff that was supposed to break (fuses) didn't.
but everything else did.
8 amp fuse didn't blow and melted 16 ga wire.
I felt that a piece of low temp solder was safer than THAT fuse. (for TEST purposes ONLY) NOT recommended.

x2 on the fuse check btw. for continuity.

I got a new battery from pirate on ebay, guaranteed for everythng and it was dead and went dead and stayed dead after slow trickle charge it lasted a few minutes.
Check charging voltage . 12 volt dc on the meter, to battery, should read something Over 12v.
battery could be dead or shorted. quality control OR bounced hard during shipping.

R-N-D
01-02-2015, 09:59 PM
I heard of folks changing entire wiring harnesses only to find the old one was ok.
Simply by changing / checking every connection, they magically work.
x2 on the ignition switch.
I had one that wanted to be turned on and then backed off a few thousandths to get a connection.
There is a tutorial with great pix detailing the procedure if you need to take the switch apart and clean contacts.

The 1985 models have a really odd fuse that looks like a miniature end wrench and not clearly marked.
Not sure if that's it but I know they are NOT real obvious in the book and a great way to get stuck far from home.

All my 84 models got transferred to a returning vet for an asparagus farm or I'd go look.
A few of us have swapped many and all known working parts only to get nowhere.
You guessed it, the fix was just time checking all connections.
Thankfully that doesn't cost anything but time.
Pls let us know what you find

Well, as of today, no luck yet. Changed both fuses, put in a brand new battery (someone asked about that and this one is brand spanking new and it works). So, I'm gonna start checking from the front to the back in hopes to find what I'm looking for. I'll be sure to keep an active update as I go along and hopefully with some good news.

R-N-D
01-02-2015, 10:01 PM
Maybe even a 99 cent 12 volt test light to see how far power goes from the
battery. see if the battery lights it up by itself, if not, you've got an answer.
If yes, then go down the line to the next connection and so on until you have no voltage.

The place I bought fuses from, how should I say this?

Even stuff that was supposed to break (fuses) didn't.
but everything else did.
8 amp fuse didn't blow and melted 16 ga wire.
I felt that a piece of low temp solder was safer than THAT fuse. (for TEST purposes ONLY) NOT recommended.

x2 on the fuse check btw. for continuity.

I got a new battery from pirate on ebay, guaranteed for everythng and it was dead and went dead and stayed dead after slow trickle charge it lasted a few minutes.
Check charging voltage . 12 volt dc on the meter, to battery, should read something Over 12v.
battery could be dead or shorted. quality control OR bounced hard during shipping.

Thanks for the advice on the volt test light. I'm gonna do that, seems to be the most sensible solution. However, I'm gonna try each route that has been advised so far by you guys. I appreciate the help.

tri again
01-03-2015, 08:04 AM
Thanks for the advice on the volt test light. I'm gonna do that, seems to be the most sensible solution. However, I'm gonna try each route that has been advised so far by you guys. I appreciate the help.

Digital volt meters are cheap enough but often hard to read. They jump around and will read voltage from your hands or the air.
A regular analog meter with a needle is my choice but test light is really all you need for major failure.
Nice to have a meter if you want to check charging voltage, like the difference between 12 volts an 13 or 14.
Maybe the light would be a little brighter?
Good luck and yes, we'd all appreciate what you find.
Very common problem with these models.

Thanks

R-N-D
01-03-2015, 06:04 PM
Success! Went to Home Depot and purchased a meter and found the issue. Never used one nor did I really know what the hell I was doing but figured it out. Couple connections were dirty. So, some electrical contact cleaner and it fired up. You guys rock! I appreciate all the help/advice etc. Super excited. Thanks guys.

Jmoozy27
01-03-2015, 09:09 PM
Teamwork at its best brotha!!

R-N-D
01-03-2015, 11:18 PM
Teamwork at its best brotha!!

No doubt! Gotta love it.