DSW85ATC250R
12-22-2014, 07:17 PM
I WANT TO START BY SAYING I DID NOT TAKE PHOTOS AS I WENT THROUGH THE PROCESS WHICH IS A SHAME AS THIS WOULD HAVE MADE AN AWESOME "HOW TO" THREAD. I did take the tank back off and the rear plastic to point out a few things. Hopefully my descriptions are clearer than MUDD.
Here is my step by step "HOW TO": I did a ton of research and with a lot of patience (Completely incompetent when it comes to electrical) and some help from Mike Zarzan at "Ricky Stator" I was able to pull together a great set up.
Light: I went with the KC C Series 10" LED combo flood spot at $249.99 with the bracket from LSR: http://www.lsracing.com/honda-trx250r-atc250r-kc-c-series-10-led-light-bar-atv-mount.1385.2.atv-utv-racing The Rigid E-Series is another option but a lot more money at $379.99 To mount it I used two stainless steel u-bolts with lock nuts and traced a piece of 1/8 rubber mat to put on the underside of the light mount and then used the u-bolts to secure the light to the handle bars.
206574
Pretty straight forward and it gets the light up high....you roll the bike...the light will take a beating. Easy: DON'T COME OFF AND YOU WILL NOT HAVE A PROBLEM!!! :lol:
Battery: I went with Trail Tech's Battery: 040-Batt3.7 because it is small and gets the job done. They also have a trick bag with a mounting plate to make installation a snap. I fabricated a mount with some stainless steel L-braces and stainless lock-nuts and bolts from the hardware store. I then sprayed them with black plasticote to make them less visible from the front.
206577206575206587206576206573
I used the stock headlight cowl and sprayed my stock headlight with black plasticote since I would not be using it any more. I wanted something to hide the battery and this was an easy solution. I also bought the charger from them to keep the battery topped off when not in use. http://www.trailtech.net/040-batt3-7 http://www.trailtech.net/040-bag-01 http://www.trailtech.net/battery-charger-4896
Regulator/Rectifier w/ Relay: I bough mine from "Ricky Stator": http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/regulatorrectifier-wrelay-p-637.html You need this to take the Stator output from AC to DC. (Listening to AC/DC while doing the install is also highly recommended :beer) This is where Mike Zarzan at "Ricky Stator" saved me. I read everywhere that to do this you need to "float the ground" or it will not work. This requires opening the stator and removing the soldered ground...... Blaaa blaaa blaaa..... you lost me. :crazy: MIKE SAID "YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THAT! YOU CAN DO IT WITHOUT FLOATING THE GROUND". Thank God because I am lucky if I float in the pool let alone the ground! I will explain the wiring diagram and step by step how to below. I will also put it into layman's terms to keep you sane!
Installation/Wiring: The first thing I did was mount the light bracket to the handle bars and mounted the light.
I used the KC switch that came with the kit and mounted it in one of the holes on the bracket. I did this to avoid hacking into the stock switch.
206578
I unplugged the factory headlight and I unplugged the rear light from the factory harness.
You will need to unplug the factory regulator as well. I used this location for the new Regulator/Rectifier.
206579
Next I used the wiring harness that came with the KC light kit and cut the switch wire length down by about 2 - 3 feet. The long length lighting cable lead I left alone and ran it to the rear of the bike where I spliced in a red and black pigtail to attach to the stock rear light. Green from the light goes to the Black and Brown from the light goes to Red. I then ran the end that plugs into the light back up to the front of the bike and plugged it into the new KC light. There is enough length to get you from the front to the rear and back so no cutting other than the splice at the rear is necessary. I left the stock harness right where it was because I was lazy and I can always put it back to stock (Like that will ever happen:rolleyes:) and I will not need to find the harness.
Now! Making it work with the new Regulator / Rectifier: On the Regulator / Rectifier (R/R) start by capping the yellow/red wire, you will not use it. Next run a length of Red wire and connect it to the (R/R) Red wire and connect the other end to the Red wire on the Battery. Now take a length of Black wire and connect it to the (R/R) Black wire and connect the other end to the Black wire on the Battery. Next take one of the Yellow wires and connect it to the frame ground to the right of the (R/R).
206580
Now the last yellow wire you will add (choose a color, I used Red Wire because I did not have Yellow) and take this to the Yellow/White wire coming from the Stator. You will find this wire in a harness on the underside of the main down tube under the fuel tank (remove the tank) just above the cylinder head. It is covered by a soft black plastic sheath. The picture doesn't show the wire but it is in the black cover where you see my finger.
206581
Unplug the wire at the harness and connect it to the yellow wire you pulled from the (R/R). Almost done! Where you unplugged the Stator Yellow/White wire you will plug in a length of Red wire and run that to the Red wire on the Battery. Make sure the connection is secure. I used a bullet crimp plug and it was loose so I thought I failed. Traced it back and crimped the connection tight and I was good to go.
206582206583
I added a couple of pigtails to the Red and Black on the Battery so I could plug the charging wire in whenever I want.
Let me know if you get stuck and I will try to help.
Attached as well are some wiring diagrams:
206584206585206586
Here is my step by step "HOW TO": I did a ton of research and with a lot of patience (Completely incompetent when it comes to electrical) and some help from Mike Zarzan at "Ricky Stator" I was able to pull together a great set up.
Light: I went with the KC C Series 10" LED combo flood spot at $249.99 with the bracket from LSR: http://www.lsracing.com/honda-trx250r-atc250r-kc-c-series-10-led-light-bar-atv-mount.1385.2.atv-utv-racing The Rigid E-Series is another option but a lot more money at $379.99 To mount it I used two stainless steel u-bolts with lock nuts and traced a piece of 1/8 rubber mat to put on the underside of the light mount and then used the u-bolts to secure the light to the handle bars.
206574
Pretty straight forward and it gets the light up high....you roll the bike...the light will take a beating. Easy: DON'T COME OFF AND YOU WILL NOT HAVE A PROBLEM!!! :lol:
Battery: I went with Trail Tech's Battery: 040-Batt3.7 because it is small and gets the job done. They also have a trick bag with a mounting plate to make installation a snap. I fabricated a mount with some stainless steel L-braces and stainless lock-nuts and bolts from the hardware store. I then sprayed them with black plasticote to make them less visible from the front.
206577206575206587206576206573
I used the stock headlight cowl and sprayed my stock headlight with black plasticote since I would not be using it any more. I wanted something to hide the battery and this was an easy solution. I also bought the charger from them to keep the battery topped off when not in use. http://www.trailtech.net/040-batt3-7 http://www.trailtech.net/040-bag-01 http://www.trailtech.net/battery-charger-4896
Regulator/Rectifier w/ Relay: I bough mine from "Ricky Stator": http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/regulatorrectifier-wrelay-p-637.html You need this to take the Stator output from AC to DC. (Listening to AC/DC while doing the install is also highly recommended :beer) This is where Mike Zarzan at "Ricky Stator" saved me. I read everywhere that to do this you need to "float the ground" or it will not work. This requires opening the stator and removing the soldered ground...... Blaaa blaaa blaaa..... you lost me. :crazy: MIKE SAID "YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THAT! YOU CAN DO IT WITHOUT FLOATING THE GROUND". Thank God because I am lucky if I float in the pool let alone the ground! I will explain the wiring diagram and step by step how to below. I will also put it into layman's terms to keep you sane!
Installation/Wiring: The first thing I did was mount the light bracket to the handle bars and mounted the light.
I used the KC switch that came with the kit and mounted it in one of the holes on the bracket. I did this to avoid hacking into the stock switch.
206578
I unplugged the factory headlight and I unplugged the rear light from the factory harness.
You will need to unplug the factory regulator as well. I used this location for the new Regulator/Rectifier.
206579
Next I used the wiring harness that came with the KC light kit and cut the switch wire length down by about 2 - 3 feet. The long length lighting cable lead I left alone and ran it to the rear of the bike where I spliced in a red and black pigtail to attach to the stock rear light. Green from the light goes to the Black and Brown from the light goes to Red. I then ran the end that plugs into the light back up to the front of the bike and plugged it into the new KC light. There is enough length to get you from the front to the rear and back so no cutting other than the splice at the rear is necessary. I left the stock harness right where it was because I was lazy and I can always put it back to stock (Like that will ever happen:rolleyes:) and I will not need to find the harness.
Now! Making it work with the new Regulator / Rectifier: On the Regulator / Rectifier (R/R) start by capping the yellow/red wire, you will not use it. Next run a length of Red wire and connect it to the (R/R) Red wire and connect the other end to the Red wire on the Battery. Now take a length of Black wire and connect it to the (R/R) Black wire and connect the other end to the Black wire on the Battery. Next take one of the Yellow wires and connect it to the frame ground to the right of the (R/R).
206580
Now the last yellow wire you will add (choose a color, I used Red Wire because I did not have Yellow) and take this to the Yellow/White wire coming from the Stator. You will find this wire in a harness on the underside of the main down tube under the fuel tank (remove the tank) just above the cylinder head. It is covered by a soft black plastic sheath. The picture doesn't show the wire but it is in the black cover where you see my finger.
206581
Unplug the wire at the harness and connect it to the yellow wire you pulled from the (R/R). Almost done! Where you unplugged the Stator Yellow/White wire you will plug in a length of Red wire and run that to the Red wire on the Battery. Make sure the connection is secure. I used a bullet crimp plug and it was loose so I thought I failed. Traced it back and crimped the connection tight and I was good to go.
206582206583
I added a couple of pigtails to the Red and Black on the Battery so I could plug the charging wire in whenever I want.
Let me know if you get stuck and I will try to help.
Attached as well are some wiring diagrams:
206584206585206586