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View Full Version : 84 honda 200x carb problem?



KevinJ97
11-10-2014, 04:14 AM
The other day i just got done rebuilding my carb since it was w3ll needed. But the main reason i did is because it would not accelerate the engine past 1cm of throttle but would act as if it were drowning. It still continues to do the same thing. I have adjusted the carb according to the service manual. The bike currently has a direct air filter.(no box) and stock exhaust system. Please any help:wondering

DohcBikes
11-10-2014, 08:12 AM
Did you take note of the jet sizes?

Explain what you mean by adjusted per the service manual, so we know of there was any misinterpretation.

KevinJ97
11-10-2014, 04:55 PM
Jets i took out were main jet 102 (high altitude) and i put in 108 (stock for 84 and 85) since im only at 1800 elevation and took out slow jet 40 and put the same in. And i adjusted the pilot screw according to rebuild information in the service manual, turn in till it seats without damaging the seal and turn out 1 and 3\4 turns and adjust idle speed with throttle stop screw. And jet needle is set 4th groove . oh i forgot to mention it idles perfect. Just doesnt like to accelerate.

DohcBikes
11-10-2014, 10:27 PM
Are you positive that your exhaust is clear?

A 108 main might be too small for an open air filter.

Checked for air leaks?

Adjusted the valves lately?

Float height?

Is your choke working properly?

KevinJ97
11-10-2014, 11:54 PM
Not sure if exhaust is clear. I will check tomorrow.what size jet would yu recomend? I have a 110 jet also. Where should i expect leaks at for it to mess with the throttle? Not to experienced to adjust valves myself. I didnt measure the float height . and yes my choke is working fine. Sorry i dont know enough to get it done the first time haha. Thanks alot.

DohcBikes
11-11-2014, 08:53 AM
Since you have a 110 handy i'd start there, but from my experience you will need a 112 or more to run a pod filter.

You said the jet needle is set 4th groove, since you seem to have comprehended the manual correctly ill assume you mean 4th from the top. Is the 'w' clip properly installed?... a loose needle can cause your symptoms as well.

Spray carb cleaner at the intake where it meets the carb and where it meets the engine. If it leaks rpm will change.

Float height. With the carb in your hand, turn it upside down slowly until the float tab just barely seats the valve, not depressing the spring but just resting on it. I dont have the X spec in my head right now but more or less with any honda one cylinder, the float should sit parallel with the bowl gasket surface.

Valve lash. remove both caps from the left cover. Remove the rocker caps, 24mm wrench or spanner. Rotate the crank using a 12mm socket (i think) in the direction of engine rotation, in this case counter clockwise. Watch the intake rocker go down, then pop back up, then shine a light in to the timing inspection hole as you continue to slowly rotate the crank. First you'll see two dots, advance marks, then you see the "f" and "t" marks, stop at the "T". Sometimes this is tricky, as the compression wants to push the piston back down as soon as it gets past tdcc, so I always grasp the socket to keep it from over rotating as you near the mark. Once at tdcc, use a 10mm wrench, a straight screwdriver and feeler gauges to set the clearance.

At this point you may also set the ignition timing as well.

You seem to be able to listen. Also you seem to want this fixed. Part of the joy of owning thirty year old bikes is keeping them running well on your own time, so enjoy these procedures and stick to it.

When tuning. Make changes. It will either make the engine run better or worse. Worse? undo it. Better?, do it more.

What happens if you seat the mix screw?... it should die. If not, post results.

Im willing to go through this whole process with you if you want, and I recommend maybe just starting over. Take your carb off, yes again... disassemble it to the best of your ability, then post pics and we can start there, if you like. Pics Pics Pics.

If you stick with it you'll get it.


P.S. It's 14 degrees in Nebraska this morning. Arizona on my mind....

KevinJ97
11-11-2014, 02:59 PM
Alright thanks this is lots of good info im going to get started with it. But what is a feeler gauge i havent heard of it? Oh and thats cold, here in wittmann arizona hasnt gone lower than 48 this year.

DohcBikes
11-11-2014, 03:14 PM
Feeler gauges are basically a set of metal strips that are each manufactured and marked to a specific precision thickness.

Look it up in your Funk and 'Google'nals. 2 people will get that joke and they probably won't even laugh.

KevinJ97
11-12-2014, 10:21 AM
Oh haha alright i know what they are now. Yesterday i only had the chance to pull the carb and change jets, couldn put together since float bowl gasket was swelled.

KevinJ97
11-12-2014, 11:33 PM
Alright well i got the science down right. I swapped out the stock exhaust for a supertrapp and fixed the ignition timing. Before i did adjust it i walked away to answer my dad and the pipe was red hot in about a minute. Got that fixed right away. Sounds so much better now.

I got board a little and wrapped a rag around the air filter and it went through the full acceleration. Proof of too much air.
It is really going to need an air box. I found one for $35 w/ boot and clamps and lid. Is that reasonable?

DohcBikes
11-13-2014, 06:35 AM
That's about the going rate for an assembly. Glad to hear you are trying things and getting results.

KevinJ97
11-13-2014, 01:13 PM
Oh alright thanx again.
Oh and what exhaust is best recomended for 200x? so i could get another for my first bike.