Best way to paint my tri-z motor

[smrover1]

Ok motor is out cases are split bearing and seals are all out. Just wondering the best way to go about this and what paint is everybody using?

[Poco Loco]

Theres a lot of people out there who F-their stuff up using spray cans. But the best way? Bring it to a pro. Thats the best way.

[3 Wheel Drive]

I had my Tri Z blasted and powder coated for 600.00 at a shop. High gloss black.

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[yaegerb]

Pj-1 fast black is what I have used in the past. Going forward I will likely use powder. For the money, the pj holds up pretty well.

[jmax857]

Depends how much your going to use it. I used vht gloss black brake caliper paint and it's held up well on my tri z for over 5 years.
Although i did not paint the cylinder.

[smrover1]

Thanks for the info. I dont really plan on this being a show piece. I see PJ1 has engine paint in gloss black, wrinkle, and satin black i will prolly just go with the gloss

[yaegerb]

use satin. Looks 10x better than gloss.

[JesseA420]

if it is stripped of all internals and bearings, just take it and have it powder coated. it will last forever and is hardly more expensive than a bunch of cans of spray paint, well worth it when in a couple years or less your spray paint job will be chipping and crapping off, powder will still look new and perfect for years to come.

[rdonald1979]

Powder all the way especially if you are planning on using it a lot. Shaker can just won't hold up.

[oldskool83]

powder coat. there is no way to paint it to stay nice. I removed al the paint from a 200x motor one primed and used high heat auto paint even cooked it up to 400 degrees for 20 mins to cure...trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro just chipped right out. powercoat it or deal with it because after 5 mins of riding it will be covered in mud.

[Red Rider]

PJ1 has held up nicely on my bike. It's oil & gas resistant, so it doesn't get jacked up when gas is spilled on it, which is inevitable on an engine. It will still get scratch & wear marks where your boots rub against it though, which is no big deal. When you have a can of the stuff sitting on your garage shelf, a quick touch up the L&R side cases is easy.

[yaegerb]

PJ1 has held up nicely on my bike. It's oil & gas resistant, so it doesn't get jacked up when gas is spilled on it, which is inevitable on an engine. It will still get scratch & wear marks where your boots rub against it though, which is no big deal. When you have a can of the stuff sitting on your garage shelf, a quick touch up the L&R side cases is easy.

x2. I only have 1 scratch on my right side case cover from my boot. My PJ1 has held up for two years of riding with no chips. Prep is key with painting. I bead blasted my cases and then used rubbing alcohol to get every speck of dirt off. You could paint with $400.00/pint PPG two stage and still end up with a crap paint job because you didn't prep the metal correctly.

[JesseA420]

if its a hoopty, spray can it. if you want it to last, powder.

[DohcBikes]

VHT works well if you prep, apply, and cure it correctly. It will not last forever, but it can be touched up. Powdercoat is more durable, WHEN DONE CORRECTLY, but also looks like hell when it starts to chip.

Dupont Imron beats everything listed so far. In my opinion.

[86125m]

oh and also with powder it takes forever to sand or blast off.

[Red Rider]

if its a hoopty, spray can it.I disagree. I've seen lots of nice engines that were spray painted via spray can. I've also seen a lot of engines/frames that looked like crap. It all comes down to prep work, as has been stated before, how much time & attention to detail one feels like devoting to the task, and finally, one's painting skills. If you don't know how to properly use a spray can, or a spray gun for that matter, the finished product will look subpar.

[yaegerb]

here's my 200x engine done in PJ1 fast black satin....far from junk.

[JesseA420]

dont get me wrong, i know what it takes to properly prep and paint. but an OHV that will be rode, will see plenty of obstacles just waiting to brush against that paint, some sharp some not sharp, for me it comes down to durability. that thick melted plastic/polymer is not going to rub off no matter how much brush rubs against the front of those cases, but your paint eventually will. why waste all the time effort and close to the same amount of funds on prepping and painting when you can have it powdered for nearly the same cost, and have it look just like it was done yesterday, forever, or until you want a different color? seems like a no brainer.

[yaegerb]

dont get me wrong, i know what it takes to properly prep and paint. but an OHV that will be rode, will see plenty of obstacles just waiting to brush against that paint, some sharp some not sharp, for me it comes down to durability. that thick melted plastic/polymer is not going to rub off no matter how much brush rubs against the front of those cases, but your paint eventually will. why waste all the time effort and close to the same amount of funds on prepping and painting when you can have it powdered for nearly the same cost, and have it look just like it was done yesterday, forever, or until you want a different color? seems like a no brainer.

Point taken. I paint/powder based on utility and I doubt this one will see much brush, rocks, etc ;)

[Red Rider]

...that thick melted plastic/polymer is not going to rub off no matter how much brush rubs against the front of those cases, but your paint eventually will.I agree powder coating is more durable, but it's not impervious to everything out on the trails. Most everything painted on my bike is powder coated, except for the engine. The powder coating still looks great to this day, though it is no longer shiney anymore where my boots rub the frame.


why waste all the time effort and close to the same amount of funds on prepping and painting when you can have it powdered for nearly the same cost...?Unless you're doing the powder coating yourself, or someone is doing it for the cost of the materials only, there is no way to get your engine powder coated "for nearly the same cost" as a can of PJ1, some sandpaper, & a can of lacquer thinner.


...or until you want a different color?Have you tried removing powder coating before? It's so durable, it's a total PITA. It's not nearly as easy as you make it sound.

[smrover1]

I ordered a can of the PJ1 gloss black and wish i would of ordered the satin i like the looks of yours. When u said u used the satin fast black are u talking the exhaust paint or the engine paint in satin ?

[yaegerb]

I ordered a can of the PJ1 gloss black and wish i would of ordered the satin i like the looks of yours. When u said u used the satin fast black are u talking the exhaust paint or the engine paint in satin ?

I did the engine in satin

[torker]

I've been using VHT suspension paint in satin black for my engines, pegs, grab bars, bumpers, a-arms, swing arms, you name it. The paint looks amazingly factory and has held up great.
I agree powder coating is the very best, but expensive. It all comes down to what you want to do with it. Powder coating will last for years, but there's no "touch up" on coating.
My engines and parts still look great with the VHT after years of being painted, no problems with fuel, oils, etc either. And you can re-paint or "touch up".
VHT can be found on any Pep-Boys and the like. Prep whatever you are painting very good, no matter the paint, there's no way around it for good results.
I can't even begin to tell you how much I hate sanding, but, it's either that or media blasting.

TORKER.

[DohcBikes]

Gotta say it again, sorry.

DuPont Imron beats everything listed so far, in every category. In my opinion :)

[El Camexican]

Don’t be scared to use the spray paint. Any engine paint available at Pep Boys, or Auto Zone will work. Like the “pro spray can” guys said, it all comes down to prep and application. You must remove all oil and grease before you paint or it will look like hell the first time you wash it. Good luck!

Spray bomb
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y434/lucky1366/1992%20YAMAHA%20WR250/SANY0003_zps0bc3fd50.jpg (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/lucky1366/media/1992%20YAMAHA%20WR250/SANY0003_zps0bc3fd50.jpg.html)
Spray bomb
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y434/lucky1366/2002%20KTM%20300%20EXC/KTM300EXC2010_zps36f87810.jpg (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/lucky1366/media/2002%20KTM%20300%20EXC/KTM300EXC2010_zps36f87810.jpg.html)
Spray bomb
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y434/lucky1366/Engine%20Paint/tpostyamahastephanie050_zpsb6a1ffb4.jpg (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/lucky1366/media/Engine%20Paint/tpostyamahastephanie050_zpsb6a1ffb4.jpg.html)
Spray bomb
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y434/lucky1366/YTM%20200%20VENT%20HOSE%20ROUTING/Assembly011_zpsfdc15036.jpg (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/lucky1366/media/YTM%20200%20VENT%20HOSE%20ROUTING/Assembly011_zpsfdc15036.jpg.html)
Spray bomb
[URL=http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/lucky1366/media/2002%20KTM%20300%20EXC/KTMEngine_zps8d607d95.jpg.html]http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y434/lucky1366/2002%20KTM%20300%20EXC/KTMEngine_zps8d607d95.jpg[/URL

[smrover1]

ok I am set on paint for the motor. Those pics all looked great. I do have one one other question and it might be a stupid one? When u guys paint the case halves do u paint them seperate or both together? The reason i ask is say i paint them black and bolt them together the yamabond is grey and will show a nice grey line right down the seam? Or do you guys bolt them together and just paint over the excess yamabond? I would thing the paint would start to peel if u did it that way?

[El Camexican]

You can do it a number of ways. I usually clean all the parts separately and prep all the surfaces for Yamabond, or seals in advance of paint to lessen the amount of tussling I have to do with the painted engine.

I then put the two case halves together with just a couple old bolts to paint. You can put the clutch and ignition covers on to save on masking, but in these photos I didn’t. Whatever needs masking I cover with masking tape and then trim with a fresh razor blade. It’s time consuming, but worth it. You can put the cylinder on the cases as well, but I usually don’t and shoot them separately as spots like under the intake track are hard to get at when its altogether. Any overspray comes off with thinner on a rag pulled over your finger tip. You can then open the cases and put the engine together and it will look factory fresh when the sealant can be seen against the painted surfaces.

Another super important thing to do as part of your prep is to do a dry run and pretend to paint the engine at all angles. You don’t want to find out that the engine tips onto a wet surface when you are rotating it. Old long bolts strategically placed around the engine make great handles and protect your work. Also make sure to shoot your last coat on the surfaces that will be seen the most. This leaves any overspray on spots you won’t see much. I also like to bake the paint with a heat gun shortly after the paint has started to set. Slow and easy heating gives the best results, don’t overdo it.

http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y434/lucky1366/1992%20YAMAHA%20WR250/EnginePaint2_zps8f66d2e3.jpg (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/lucky1366/media/1992%20YAMAHA%20WR250/EnginePaint2_zps8f66d2e3.jpg.html)
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y434/lucky1366/1992%20YAMAHA%20WR250/EnginePaint1_zpsc979fa1f.jpg (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/lucky1366/media/1992%20YAMAHA%20WR250/EnginePaint1_zpsc979fa1f.jpg.html)