atc250r stator

[threewheelin-feelin]

ok guys this is probably a dumb question( i ask alot of them) but this weekend i was out riding my 310 it started to sputter bad. so i changed the plug and it was good for one run and then died on me. so when i was kicking it i heard a scratching sound from the stator cover. so i took off the cover and found the 3 stator bolts had come loose and the stator was hitting the flywheel. i then tightened them up installed another new plug and it still wouldnt start. next i popped off the flywheel to find that it didnt eat thrue any of the stator wires and that stator it self just has some light scuffing on the bottom. so would it take much for the flywheel to ruin the stator? any one had this happen before?

[jb2wheels]

Put a multimeter on it and check the stator coils.

I can't remember - are the 250R stator plates slotted for timing? If they are, how do you know it's in the right place?

[threewheelin-feelin]

the stator only goes on one way that i can see. i dont see any slots

[Flyingw]

The 250R stator is static indexed meaning its not adjustable. JB2wheels is correct in suggesting you put a meter on the red/black lead coming out of the stator and see if you have any resistance reading at all and no, it doesn't take much to damage the stator windings. Red/black lead and frame ground should show resistance of some sort. Start there and report back.

[barnett468]

hello;

OPTION B.

Unplug stator

remove spark plug

get a meter that reads or retains peak voltage and set it to 50v or 100v if there's a setting.

connect red meter wire to stator wire.

black meter wire to ground.

kick it moderately hard. do not break your foot by kicking too hard.

if it is over 35 volts it is definitely good and your cdi is possibly bad.

[threewheelin-feelin]

ok guys i went out tonight and did some checking. i set my multimeter to ac volts and connected the black lead to the spark plug and the red lead to the red/back wire coming from the stator. i kicked it over hard and the highest i got was 21.9. i then hooked my meter to my big red battery on the same setting and it read 24.9. i also noticed when i turned the head light switch on if i kicked it as hard as i could i would get a little dim light. normally the head light would be quite bright. so im pretty sure its the stator. you guys agree? also if it matters its a 200w ricks stator

[Flyingw]

Just out of curiosity, put your meter on resistance X1 and put one lead on the black/red lead and the other on frame ground. What's the resistance?

[threewheelin-feelin]

a little update. so i decided to try another stator. i put on the new stator and started kicking it. it would fire a little every now and then but the kicker would sometimes kick back hard like the timing was off. so just for the hell of it i checked the compression to find the highest reading i could get was 140 psi. i know a stock 250r should be making 170 to 199 psi and this is a big bore. i cant believe the odds that the stator would come loose and the bike start loosing compression at the same time. i think im going to try another compression gauge tomorrow to be sure. does all this sound like it adds up to you guys? would low compression cause a kick back?

[82 250r]

You need to kick it hard about 12 times with the throttle open.
Didn't you just build this motor?

[threewheelin-feelin]

You need to kick it hard about 12 times with the throttle open.
Didn't you just build this motor?

i kicked it about 5 times with the chock valve all the way up and throttle open like the book says. i built this motor in april of last year. i probably have 30 hours on it and esr recommends to re-ring it at 30 hours. but i would have thought that would have been under extreme racing conditions. the kick back that im getting sometimes is my biggest concern

[threewheelin-feelin]

ok i tried another tester today and was getting about 165 psi on this tester. so im not sure if my tester is wrong or if my buddies tester is wrong. either way its low readings but if the 165 is correct isnt that enough to at least run?

[Flyingw]

Oh ya, I've seen motors run on 90psi.

[threewheelin-feelin]

well i checked the air gap on the flywheel and pickup coil. its a 5 thousandths. so i guess its time to start checking other things. its just driving me crazy that that stator didnt fix it and now im getting a kick back every now and then.....

[barnett468]

hello threewheelinfeelin;


1. try the test flyingw suggested in post in post 7.

2. as mentioned, 160 psi is xlnt, 140 is less than xlnt but very good.

3. a big bore has no more compression than a weed eater unless it's set up to. the bore size has nothing to do with increasing compression unless that's the only thing you change.

4. kick back is not caused by timing, it is caused by bad spark plug or bad ign coil or bad pulser or possibly water in the gas or a bad CDI. uh oh, i said those words every honda rider fears.http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-laughing013.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)


i would do the following, others might do it differently.

1. install new plug.

2. install new gas and drain the float bowl or at least drain the float bowl.

2. lay the plug on the head and kick it over and tell us if the spark is lazy yellow or crisp pale blue.

3. unplug the stator wire or wires, get a volt meter that holds peak readings, turn it to 50, connect the red wire from volt meter to the black wire with red stripe on the stator and the other meter wire to ground and kick it over. if it has less than 35 volts it is bad. this eliminates the need for an ohm test. it has 35 or more or it does not. its that simple.

4. if stator has 35 volts or more, test the ignition coil. unfortunately it might test good and still be bad or vise versa.

5. ohm the pulser coil.

6. remove spark plug, put liquid white out on the flywheel at tdc sand the F mark and one on the engine mark.

6. put bike in a dark or shaded area, connect timing lite, have someone kick it over and check timing. it should flash between the tdc mark and the F marrk. If it flashes before tdc or after F your timing is off for some reason. the correct timing is on the F mark at 1500 rpm. kicking it might only produce around 800 rpm. this is why it will likely not flash on the F mark.

7. you might try cutting around 1/2" off of your coil wire on the cap end.

8. if everything looks good your cdi is most likely bad. it is virtually untestable but you can try. see instructions in manual below.


ohms

exciter coil [test black//red wire to ground] - 50 - 250

pulse coil -[test blue/yellow to blue/green]- 50 - 200

ign coil - see pg 15-3 in manual.


manual

http://www.atcmanuals.info/


Here, sweetheart...try some of this, it sounds like you could use it.

. . http://www.adrants.com/images/st_paulie_girl_katerina_van_derham-thumb.jpg


OMG...Where can I get one of those...yum!

. . . . http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTDheK_NT7A9cIdJnV_1Pg7lGbLDWNu5 AVQnY60FToKElt_Wip72n1nHA

BACON...behave yourself!

. . http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTPVl94GrqAajvACcWSWBuCH4Hr1ehM_ b2Mu35gKuNf00fTPAdNX-Dhgl4


Holy cr_p!
http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-laughing025.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)

[threewheelin-feelin]

ok new development today. my buddy came over and we checked all the connections and everything looked good. so i tried my extra ignition coil with no luck. so i grabbed another new plug and he kicked it over while i looked for spark. every time we kicked it there was no fire as the kicker was going down but we would get one blue spark after it was kicked over. just one little pop like a static shock. ive never seen anything like this have any of you guys?

[Mosh]

Pull your flywheel. Make sure the key didnt walk off the crank when you re did the stator. Your pick up gap should be .017"...not 5. Set it by gently bending the tab it mounts on. See if it will run. If not pull your cdi and tap on it in various dircetions with it plugged in..Upside down twisted around etc...If it runs tap on it again. If it quits it is bad. Tap testing cdi with a screwdriver handle has found many intermittent spark problems for me over the years. Dont beat it just tap it gently. It wont take much if its bad.

[threewheelin-feelin]

key is where it is supposed to be. i set the pic up gap at .017 and tapped on cdi still no luck.

[threewheelin-feelin]

2 more things i also tried trimming back the plug wire a little that also didnt work. so if i do replace the cdi where should i get it from? i know everyone hates the aftermarket cdi boxes but ive been looking and cant find a new oem box. i really dont want to buy a used one. i see rmstator has one are they a good company to get it from?

[82 250r]

Are you sure the 2nd stator is good?
I have a good CDI that I can mail to you for testing purposes if you think that will help. It's an OEM Honda and yes i want it back :)
You can find a good used oem CDI for around $60 on ebay. I would use OEM Honda imo.
If a used CDI is still working after 30 years, it's a keeper and it'll probably be fine for a while longer. :)
Hard to find a NOS CDI.

Another thing to check is the CDI terminals.

[threewheelin-feelin]

Are you sure the 2nd stator is good?
I have a good CDI that I can mail to you for testing purposes if you think that will help. It's an OEM Honda and yes i want it back :)
You can find a good used oem CDI for around $60 on ebay. I would use OEM Honda imo.
If a used CDI is still working after 30 years, it's a keeper and it'll probably be fine for a while longer. :)
Hard to find a NOS CDI.

Another thing to check is the CDI terminals.

i think i may just bite the bullet and buy one. thank you so much for the offer though. ive been trying to find another plug boot too but its discontinued and i cant find one on ebay. do you know if the trx boot will work? its still available new from honda. edit never mind i just found one new from NGK. also to be honest with you i dont know if the new stator is bad... im assuming its good since its new... are these aftermarket parts really that bad that its "common" for these parts to bad out of the box?

[82 250r]

I replaced my good, rusty, corroded OEM Honda stator with an aftermarket because mine looked sooo bad I didn't trust it.
The aftermarket stator lasted for exactly one ride.
Put the original corroded stator back in and it runs great.

I like to use Honda parts when I can.

Do you have a link for the NGK boot?

[threewheelin-feelin]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-ATC-250R-1984-1985-1986-NGK-LB05EMH-Spark-Plug-Cap-Sparkplug-/400324573167?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d353437ef&vxp=mtr

so no body has seen this delayed spark issue? im wondering if when the stator bolts came loose and it layed on to the fly wheel if it caused a voltage spike??? or maybe caused the fly wheel to go bad???

[82 250r]

I have seen it when my stator went bad. The capacitor is holding a small charge in the cdi but not enough to start the bike.
The stators white wire burned near the harness connector causing a short in the stator. It was hard to find.

The spark plug test is hard to do unless you're in a dark garage and you kick really hard while someone holds the plug on a GOOD GROUND.
It's also hard to find the problem between stator, CDI, and flywheel without having a spare of all three known to be good.

Keep in mind, with the stator touching the flywheel, you had quite a short that likely damaged the stator and the CDI.
Unfortunately, you can't really test them individually without the right equipment. My bad stator passed all the multimeter tests but would not work on the bike.

I have been through it so you have my sympathy.
Good luck and keep us posted with your solution.

[threewheelin-feelin]

got it running today. i swapped the pickup coil from the old stator to the new stator and she fired right up.