85 tecate questions and build

[emmie357]

Okay, so I got this 85 Tecate in December for $200, total basket case.

Top end was taken off, the wristpin dug into the side of the cylinder and the piston skirt was shattered (and piston installed backwards). The top end looked like it was off for years, all kinds of dust & oil in the crank. Previous owner said he had it for two years and never got to it. The guy he bought it off of said it sat for 5 plus. So I wanted to split the cases to replace all the seals and bearings. I slowly accumulated the parts for that and new top end. Picked up a stator, swinehart flywheel, stock pipe, few things here and there.

Eventually the engine was built and back in the trike, I ran it for a few minutes, didn't try to make it move because I had no brakes, and an old rusty chain. When the weather got nice, I started painting. Now the engine is back in, front brakes are on, new chain, chain slider, bearings replaced (Steering, front & rear wheels, swingarm, suspension. Now some minor problems.

1) I think I have an air leak. I had leak tested and thought I was ok. The only thing leaking was my tester lol. But it definitely wants to rev to the moon until I pull the choke... but it runs fine with the choke on. It was leaking at the exhaust, I removed the exhaust to see how I can address that, but would that cause an air leak? Also, I'm running stock jetting (260 main, 40 pilot) and 20:1 yamalube for break-in. The plug looks oily black and there is black oil spitting out of the exhaust. I think too much oil in the pre-mix? I was planning to tone it down after running a tank or two through. Is it true that too much oil can cause a lean condition (as there is less gas to burn)?

I'll be trying to build a better leak down tester tomorrow... maybe I'll find an air leak. I'm also giving the carb another good cleaning. I had cleaned and drained it, but then it sat for a month or two, and it was real nasty to start with.

2) I have clutch problems. When I reassembled the clutch, the plates were still oily so I didn't soak them, just rubbed a little fresh oil on them. Re-assembled per the manual. Now the clutch will not engage. After sitting for awhile yesterday It moved about 10 yards before it lost power. Then today when I got home from work it actually went about a hundred yards before losing power trying to get it into second. If I raise the back end off the ground the wheels will spin pretty good in first and second... and pulling the clutch lever didn't want to stop them all the way. I'm kinda stumped on this one... I think I need new fiber plates, but am not sure why pulling the clutch didn't completely stop the wheels from spinning. Even with the cable fully tightened.

Well, here are some pics of the progress, I have to snap some new ones with the plastics on and the new seat cover. Please chime in on the 2 issues...
192291192292192293192294192295192296192297192298

[jeswinehart]

If you can get it running (choke on or how ever) you can check a lot of the easier to find air leak by spraying carb cleaner around intake boot area and if it dies out when doing so,,, there is a problem in that area.
Your exhaust leak won't effect much of anything excepting making a mess on the head pipe. I am basically a warm weather Tecate rider.
I recall reading tecates came new with a handful of jets for different temps and altitudes. For warm to hot humid weather in Michigan I noted to use a 270 main, #30 pilot and clip fourth from the top to run best on my particular set up which now is not to far off from a basic stock 84/85 engine. I do run my mix a wee bit on the thin side (100+ to 1 Amsoil) but dam sure don't want to turn this into a freaking oil thread, it is what works for me in anything 2 stroke)
Black oily goop coming out the tail pipe is unburnt fuel, most likely having a hard time with fouling plugs ?
My Tecate clutchs take forever to work properly, just figured that is the way they are. Both have got to be very warmed up before dropping into gear with out "power braking". Not sure if right or wrong but something I can live with.

[emmie357]

I should add I sprayed starting fluid all around the intake boot, head gasket, and base gasket. It didn't make it rev up.
It's hasn't ran long, so no plug fowling yet. The plug looks pretty clean, just a little oily (no black deposits).

I'm afraid to check the crank seals, as they were replaced, but would need a complete teardown to re-replace... but I'll get there after the leak test if needed.

[jeswinehart]

Well IMO your going about it with thought + process correctly. It went 10 yards, then 100 yards,,,, it sound like it needs the "crap" rode out of it !

[jb2wheels]

Well IMO your going about it with thought + process correctly. It went 10 yards, then 100 yards,,,, it sound like it needs the "crap" rode out of it !

True - Tecates are made to be whipped! In 48 hours I'll be flogging mine in the OK dunes!

That red frame looks great - I thought about doing it to mine but couldn't commit.

Do you have an air filter in the box? If not, that might be throwing off your mixture.

The last 2-stroke I saw with a death-rev was an 85 or 86 250R and it was missing a couple of cylinder to case nuts and you could see daylight where the base gasket was supposed to be. They fixed it in the campground with a used gasket and ran it the rest of the weekend without issues!

All 3 of my Tecates' clutches dragged and 2 were grabby as all heck even with fresh plates. The clutch in my red 85 is not grabby but does drag when cold.
What gear oil are you using?

[barnett468]

Hello emmie;


I would do a gas level check and compression test with a high quality non harbor freight type gauge with the throttle wide open in addition to the leak down test you are planning.


GAS LEVEL TEST

1. get a small 10” long piece of clear plastic tube.
2. connect it to the float bowl drain fitting.
3. hold it close to the carb with the open end even with the top of the carb.
4. open the gas valve on the tank and drain screw on the carb bowl.
5. the gas in the tube should be from even with the bottom of the main carb body to 3/16” below it. If it is outside this range, I would correct it.







Okay, so I got this 85 Tecate in December for $200, total basket case.

Top end was taken off, the wristpin dug into the side of the cylinder and the piston skirt was shattered (and piston installed backwards). The top end looked like it was off for years, all kinds of dust & oil in the crank. Previous owner said he had it for two years and never got to it. The guy he bought it off of said it sat for 5 plus.


I wanted to split the cases to replace all the seals and bearings.Did you do this?

If not, how did you clean all the metal out of the rod and crank bearings?





I slowly accumulated the parts for that and new top end.What did you use for a cyl, piston and rings.

Were parts new or used?

Did you measure the cyl bore for roundness and taper?

did you measure the piston for wear?

did you check the piston to cylinder clearance?

did you install new rings and check the end gap?





I think I have an air leak. I had leak tested and thought I was ok. The only thing leaking was my tester lol. But it definitely wants to rev to the moon until I pull the choke... but it runs fine with the choke on. How can you do a leak test with a leak tester that leaks?

I would do it again with a tester that does not leak.

Make sure your throttle cable has free play and the slide drops all the way with the throttle off.




QUOTE=emmie357;1306355]It was leaking at the exhaust, ...would that cause an air leak?[/quote]No, however, if the leak was huge, it will cause a substantial reduction in power .





…there is black oil spitting out of the exhaust.I think there is a drain bolt on the bottom of the silencer if it is stock. I would remove it and see if anything drains out and run it without the bolt for a few minutes to see what happens.





Also, I'm running stock jetting (260 main, 40 pilot) and 20:1 yamalube for break-in. The plug looks oily black…Oily black plug is oil not excessive fuel, however, it may be rich in addition to getting excessive oil in it.





The plug looks pretty clean, just a little oily (no black deposits).Your plug is no longer black like you said it was?

Did you change anything?

A rich oil to gas mix will create white smoke and the plug will look oily or wt when removed and this wetness will not dry up if it is oil. If it is gas it will instantly dry up from the heat of the plug.

Is your cylinder ported?

Is your carb stock?

Is your exhaust pipe stock?

Are you using the original silencer?

I suggest trying it with no silencer or a std straight through one if you have the stock silencer or any spark arrestor type silencer. It might be plugged, squirrels might have put nuts in it. This is what happened to one guy here and it took around 90 posts on his thread before he found out it was a plugged muffler, lol.





I think too much oil in the pre-mix?
I was planning to tone it down after running a tank or two through.
It is not too much oil in the premix. If the plug is oily, it is trans oil from the clutch side seal or leaking center cases, however you are safe changing your ratio to 28:1 for now.





Is it true that too much oil can cause a lean condition (as there is less gas to burn)?True, but not by a large amount. If your bike is PROPERLY jetted at 32:1 and go to 20:1, I would suggest going up 1 size on the main just to be safe then do plug readings and jet as necessary.





I'll be trying to build a better leak down tester tomorrow.you can buy a cheap radiator pressure tester with a built in gauge from many big chain auto stores.





I have clutch problems. When I reassembled the clutch, the plates were still oily so I didn't soak them, just rubbed a little fresh oil on them. Re-assembled per the manual. Now the clutch will not engage.Then your plates are wasted, it’s that simple, however it is EXTREMELY unlikely for a clutch to be worn so bad that it fails to move a bike forward. If it is then there should have been obvious signs of heavy wear or missing plates. There is a spec in the manual for the thickness of the plates.

If they are in spec and none are missing, you can sand the metal plates with 400 wet/dry sand paper using water or WFD40.





After sitting for awhile yesterday It moved about 10 yards before it lost power. Then today when I got home from work it actually went about a hundred yards before losing powerwhat do you mean exactly?

Did the engine slow down?

Did it move forward and then the clutch started to slip badly allowing the engine to rev up?





trying to get it into second.What do you meant by “trying”?

Does it shift or not?

Is it hard to shift?





If I raise the back end off the ground the wheels will spin pretty good in first and second... and pulling the clutch lever didn't want to stop them all the way.If your clutch is bad it will not work well enough to accelerate over 400 lbs, however, it will be able to spin the rear tires when they are off the ground.

The fact that the tires still spin in the air with the clutch in is not a prob. If the clutch was good but the bike still crept forward when it was pulled in with the engine warm there would be a problem.

What tans oil are you using?

I would use motorcycle oil, like 20w-50 valvoline motorcycle oil because it is not only decent oil but it is sold in most auto parts stores so it is easy to find if there is not a motorcycle shop near you. Motorcycle oils are designed for motorcycle clutches.
If your clutch squeels and chatters if you let it out slowly then bit is working properly. http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-laughing013.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)





I should add I sprayed starting fluid all around the intake boot, head gasket, and base gasket. It didn't make it rev up.sounds like a seal or case leak to me then.



Here’s my avatar. I named her Bacon. Isn’t she cute?

Hi, my name is Bacon Aren't I cute.

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[nd4speed]

You could upload pictures of your clutch lever and a picture of the position of the clutch actuator arm.

I had clutch adjustment issues and found a previous owner installed a random small ball bearing between clutch push rods. Hopefully you got all the right parts in there.

I would back off on the oil in the premix. I have run 32:1 for years but it is all about the jetting,

Clutch drag is common. But are you sure your loss of power is not just you are running so rich or lean that the motor just falls flat and dos not rev and produces no power?

High rev? Air screw turns? Your idle screw turned all the way out? or all the way in?

20:1 will run lean. The mix is heavier and does not flow and allows more air to enter. 20:1 will make ring seal better and raise compression and when jetted properly for a lean high oil condition you will not foul plugs but produce more power than a 50:1 or 100:1 premix ratio.

[emmie357]

Hello emmie;


I would do a gas level check and compression test with a high quality non harbor freight type gauge with the throttle wide open in addition to the leak down test you are planning.


GAS LEVEL TEST

1. get a small 10” long piece of clear plastic tube.
2. connect it to the float bowl drain fitting.
3. hold it close to the carb with the open end even with the top of the carb.
4. open the gas valve on the tank and drain screw on the carb bowl.
5. the gas in the tube should be from even with the bottom of the main carb body to 3/16” below it. If it is outside this range, I would correct it.


Compression seems good, but I should be able to borrow a tester. I'll try the gas test, Would a low level cause a lean condition?




Did you do this?

If not, how did you clean all the metal out of the rod and crank bearings?


I did split the cases, and installed new "all balls" crank bearings and seals. Did not replace the big end bearing through, it was tight with no up-down play, and looked clean.



What did you use for a cyl, piston and rings.

Were parts new or used?

Did you measure the cyl bore for roundness and taper?

did you measure the piston for wear?

did you check the piston to cylinder clearance?

did you install new rings and check the end gap?


Installed a new weisco piston, rings, and top end bearing. Cylinder was used, but stock bore and the nick-plating was in good shape. Didn't get the cylinder measured, but it was a good tight fit and I couldn't get a feeler gauge past the rings. Ring end gaps weren't measured, but the ring ends were lines up correctly in the notches, and on either side of the intake port.




How can you do a leak test with a leak tester that leaks?

I would do it again with a tester that does not leak.

Make sure your throttle cable has free play and the slide drops all the way with the throttle off.


Not well apparently, it held air pressure for a few secs, as it dropped I spayed soapy water and the only place bubbling was the tester. Mostly from the bicycle pump that had some chew marks from a cat...





Oily black plug is oil not excessive fuel, however, it may be rich in addition to getting excessive oil in it.


Your plug is no longer black like you said it was?

Did you change anything?

A rich oil to gas mix will create white smoke and the plug will look oily or wt when removed and this wetness will not dry up if it is oil. If it is gas it will instantly dry up from the heat of the plug.

Is your cylinder ported?

Is your carb stock?

Is your exhaust pipe stock?

Are you using the original silencer?

I suggest trying it with no silencer or a std straight through one if you have the stock silencer or any spark arrestor type silencer. It might be plugged, squirrels might have put nuts in it. This is what happened to one guy here and it took around 90 posts on his thread before he found out it was a plugged muffler, lol.



Plug is black, but only oily black (for now), it hasn't run much. The black rubs right off, it's not all carbon build up... that's what I was trying to say. Stock carb with stock jetting, it was pretty dirty so I'm giving it the once over again. Pipe is stock with a new FMF Turbinecore 2 silencer. Porting looked the same as my junk cylinder, so I assume stock, unless both happen to be ported.





It is not too much oil in the premix. If the plug is oily, it is trans oil from the clutch side seal or leaking center cases, however you are safe changing your ratio to 28:1 for now.


This is what I am afraid of, I have an extra set of crank seals, but would need to split cases to replace them because of the lip behind (or in front of?) the seals.




Then your plates are wasted, it’s that simple, however it is EXTREMELY unlikely for a clutch to be worn so bad that it fails to move a bike forward. If it is then there should have been obvious signs of heavy wear or missing plates. There is a spec in the manual for the thickness of the plates.

If they are in spec and none are missing, you can sand the metal plates with 400 wet/dry sand paper using water or WFD40.


I think I have to remove the clutch cover... while I'm in there I'll spec the plates (didn't do that the first time) and check the crank seal on that side for a leak. I'm assuming I need new plates. I see most of the clutch kits also fit the bayou 220, I have an extra bayou engine laying around... I don't want to use used plates, but what are the chances of clutch baskets/springs/etc swapping if needed?



what do you mean exactly?

Did the engine slow down?

Did it move forward and then the clutch started to slip badly allowing the engine to rev up?


What do you meant by “trying”?

Does it shift or not?

Is it hard to shift?

Engine didn't slow down, just the momentum, like the clutch stopped grabbing.
It shifts fine just pushing it around, when I had it ripping across the yard I clutched in, shifted, and then let the clutch out, but it didn't grab again. Seemed to click into second just fine though.



If your clutch is bad it will not work well enough to accelerate over 400 lbs, however, it will be able to spin the rear tires when they are off the ground.

The fact that the tires still spin in the air with the clutch in is not a prob. If the clutch was good but the bike still crept forward when it was pulled in with the engine warm there would be a problem.

What tans oil are you using?

I would use motorcycle oil, like 20w-50 valvoline motorcycle oil because it is not only decent oil but it is sold in most auto parts stores so it is easy to find if there is not a motorcycle shop near you. Motorcycle oils are designed for motorcycle clutches.
If your clutch squeels and chatters if you let it out slowly then bit is working properly.

I'm using Valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil. Same as I use in my blaster (please don't hate me cause I own a blaster lol)

Thanks for the help... I'll post some results.

[emmie357]

You could upload pictures of your clutch lever and a picture of the position of the clutch actuator arm.

I had clutch adjustment issues and found a previous owner installed a random small ball bearing between clutch push rods. Hopefully you got all the right parts in there.

I would back off on the oil in the premix. I have run 32:1 for years but it is all about the jetting,

Clutch drag is common. But are you sure your loss of power is not just you are running so rich or lean that the motor just falls flat and dos not rev and produces no power?

High rev? Air screw turns? Your idle screw turned all the way out? or all the way in?

20:1 will run lean. The mix is heavier and does not flow and allows more air to enter. 20:1 will make ring seal better and raise compression and when jetted properly for a lean high oil condition you will not foul plugs but produce more power than a 50:1 or 100:1 premix ratio.

I'll snap some pics of the actuator with the cable adjusted all the way out, and all the way in. Motor revs fine, even too much (revs up like a lean condition, then is hard to stop with the kill switch). It's a stock mikuni carb, no air screw... I thought that was strange, but The manual does not list one, nor does the parts diagram.

Oh, and I am running a new UNI filter, oiled up in the air box. I started with an vented airbox lid, but swapped to a closed one. Didn't seem to help.

[emmie357]

Okay so after a few setbacks I got the leak tester working without any leaks. The expansion plug in the exhaust kept shooting across the garage on me, scared me pretty good the first time it happened.
I also cleaned the carb again. I seem to have had an issue with the pilot jet. Jet was clean, but the passage out of the pilot jet (in the carb body) was blocked pretty good.

Runs okay now, except it does not return to idle quickly. I ordered a new throttle cable as the one that was on had a few kinks in it. Also ordered a new clutch cable, as I noticed a fray developed from taking the end on and off. Here are some pics of the actuator adjusted in, and out (clutch lever is not pulled in either pic):
192488192489

Clutch is still not engaging, I'll remove the clutch cover this weekend and check that all over. Some other pics I took with the front fender, gas tank, and number plate on:
192490192491

[barnett468]

Hello;


xlnt, thorough and entertaining answers. this helps considerably.


LEAK TEST - Ok, well did it leak?

How much did you pump it up to?

For how long?


GAS LEVEL - Its complicated but i like to make sure the things that are easy to correct first that should be corrected, be corrected before i search for other probs, because incorrect settings may be contributing to a prob i might be having. in other words, put in a new proper heat range plug, set the gas level in the carb, set the air mix screw [n/a on your carb] check timing in case some clown advanced it 50 degrees and do a pressure test.


EXHAUST COLOR - Does it smoke and if so what color is it, lite gray, very dark gray to black? black is too much fuel.


SPARK PLUG - Run the engine for a few, then post a photo, it's easier for us. It should not be black, your engine should be lean with your silencer and stock jetting.


AIR FILTER - run it without it in a non dusty area for a minute with a new plug if you have one. this will lean it out a hair or a lot if your filter is heavily soaked with oil.


OIL RATIO - As suggested, i would change it before further testing to help reduce variables and might clean up the black on the plug, just don't ride around wot all the time.


ENGINE RACING - Part of that was obviously your plugged pilot circuit causing a lean condition. i might blast carb cleaner through that circuit for around 3 seconds every 3 minutes and do it 6 times if you think there might still be goo in it.

set your throttle cable so it has around 3/16" - 1/4" of play at the carb temporarily until your prob is solved. if it odkes high again simply chedck the play. if there is play then the cable has been eliminated as a problem.


CARB SLIDE - Look at it to see if there is any chrome worn off exposing the brass. if the slide or carb bore is excessively worn it can cause high and/or erratic idle.


CLUTCH - Your arm position is correct. remove the cable and move the arm front to back, there should be some freeplay. my guess at this point is that it is totally wasted. if the parts "fish" says the other will work then try it. if your clutch is easy to pull in you can also install 2 "AN" style washers on each bolt to increase the spring pressure. this is a temporary test. sand the plates as i suggested but this alone will not fix it completely if much at all.


OIL - Your oil is not causing your clutch to slip.


The fact that your engine revs under acceleration and is worse when warm obviously says your engine is at least fairly good and your clutch totally sucks. this is good because a clutch that sucks is typically easier to fix than an engine that does not work right. Once your spark plug is lite tan and it runs well you'll be fine.


Here’s my avatar. I named her Bacon. Isn’t she cute?

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[emmie357]

LEAK TEST - Ok, well did it leak?

How much did you pump it up to?

For how long?


It held 6-7lbs, it held without a drop for about 4 minutes before the exhaust plug let out. That was the longest run I had, the plug kept getting more and more soapy and oily. I'll probably try it again for peace of mind. Need a new expansion plug, 2 inches was the biggest NAPA had, had to over tighten it to get it to block the exhaust off. I wanted a 2 and a quarter inch plug. I have to call around.


GAS LEVEL - Its complicated but i like to make sure the things that are easy to correct first that should be corrected, be corrected before i search for other probs, because incorrect settings may be contributing to a prob i might be having. in other words, put in a new proper heat range plug, set the gas level in the carb, set the air mix screw [n/a on your carb] check timing in case some clown advanced it 50 degrees and do a pressure test.

I can't hook a tube up to this drain: 192531
The tube coming out is for the overflow, the drain appears to be the large piece that unscrews...
I adjusted the float until gas spilled out the overflow, then went back a little. Am I good?



EXHAUST COLOR - Does it smoke and if so what color is it, lite gray, very dark gray to black? black is too much fuel.

Smokes pretty good, light blueish grey. No more oil spewing by the head, exhaust is nice and tight now. Silencer is still oily, I'll try thinning the premix ratio once it's back together (clutch is apart right now).



SPARK PLUG - Run the engine for a few, then post a photo, it's easier for us. It should not be black, your engine should be lean with your silencer and stock jetting.

AIR FILTER - run it without it in a non dusty area for a minute with a new plug if you have one. this will lean it out a hair or a lot if your filter is heavily soaked with oil.

OIL RATIO - As suggested, i would change it before further testing to help reduce variables and might clean up the black on the plug, just don't ride around wot all the time.

ENGINE RACING - Part of that was obviously your plugged pilot circuit causing a lean condition. i might blast carb cleaner through that circuit for around 3 seconds every 3 minutes and do it 6 times if you think there might still be goo in it.

set your throttle cable so it has around 3/16" - 1/4" of play at the carb temporarily until your prob is solved. if it odkes high again simply chedck the play. if there is play then the cable has been eliminated as a problem.

once it's back together I'll try these things. I have the carb off again right now so I'll keep cleaning that until I'm satisfied.



CARB SLIDE - Look at it to see if there is any chrome worn off exposing the brass. if the slide or carb bore is excessively worn it can cause high and/or erratic idle.


Chrome is in good shape, no scratches or wear marks.



CLUTCH - Your arm position is correct. remove the cable and move the arm front to back, there should be some freeplay. my guess at this point is that it is totally wasted. if the parts "fish" says the other will work then try it. if your clutch is easy to pull in you can also install 2 "AN" style washers on each bolt to increase the spring pressure. this is a temporary test. sand the plates as i suggested but this alone will not fix it completely if much at all.

OIL - Your oil is not causing your clutch to slip.

The fact that your engine revs under acceleration and is worse when warm obviously says your engine is at least fairly good and your clutch totally sucks. this is good because a clutch that sucks is typically easier to fix than an engine that does not work right. Once your spark plug is lite tan and it runs well you'll be fine.


Took the clutch apart today. Of the 7 plates, 2 are out of spec, 2 at the service limit, and 3 were in usable condition. I ordered a set of NOS clutch plates, decent price too. Should have them by next weekend.
The metal plates are all straight, I layed them on a piece of glass to check with a feeler gauge, no warping at all.

Springs are all at the service limit, anyone have a recommendation for replacements?
Stock replacements? Barnett? Vesrah? EBC?

I have a NOS clutch gasket laying around, so I should be all set.
Motion pro clutch and throttle cables en-route. This should all come together next weekend. I'll post the results.

Thanks for all the help.

[3 Wheel Drive]

I'm guessing Barnett468 will go with the Barnett replacements...lol. A lot of good info here, I'm putting my Tecate back together as soon as I get time to paint my final coat on my hubs and swinger. I'll be looking back through here if I run into trouble with my clutch.

Good looking build, I ran out of time for painting my frame.

[barnett468]

Hello emmie;


GAS LEVEL - How far or below the gasket surface is the top of the overflow pipe?

You want your gas around 1/4" below the gasket surface. You can calculate/estimate it close enough. Also check your actual float level measurement. If it is way off then something is wrong but I doubt it because it ran decent.


CLUTCH - There is a service limit for the metal plates and springs also. If the springs are within spec you do not need to replace them. If they are too short [collapsed] then they will not produce enough pressure on the clutch which can cause it to slip.

I would buy original springs only. I assure you, the stock clutch on these bikes is killer, it will take more hp than stock and professional racing abuse and work fine for a long time.

Where in the world did you find factory original fiber discs?


LEAK DOWN TEST - Ok, this is a good sign.


EXHAUST SMOKE COLOR - The blue/grey color is oil. If it was rich enough to make your plug black it would likely be almost black.


EXHAUST SMOKE - If it smokes a lot and does NOT have an oil seal or case leak into the crankcase, which yours does not seem to, then it obviously means that it is the oil in the gas. Some types of oil smoke more than others even when mixed at the same ratio for various reasons. Again, if you are not running wot all the time then 32:1 is fine. This should reduce the amount of smoke by a significant amount and hopefully clean up the black on your plug. It is possible that, the brand of oil you are using is simply "dirty" or burns "dirty. This does not mean it is "bad" or low quality oil.


JETTING - Again, other than the odd black on your spark plug, your jetting should be very close to ideal, therefore I would not change it until the mix ratio is changed. If your plug continues to get black after that, I would try a 1 size smaller main jet, but this simply defies logic in your case. Just make sure your oil filter is not over oiled. You can temporarily remove your air filter or clean it and run it dry to see if it gets any better.

:beer

[emmie357]

The top of the overflow is real close to the gasket, I can comfortably say within a quarter inch without having to go to may garage to measure. (but I'll look when I get out there and correct myself if needed).

I'll look for some kawi springs, they are still available (but pricy). The ones I had are all right at the service limit of 32.3mm, got a few 32.27, 32.28 measurements in certain spots, so I may as well replace them now while it's apart.

I think I got lucky on the plates, I had been looking the last few days and these must have just popped up on ebay. They were NOS, part number was for the 84, but the parts fiche says they fit 85 (85 part number fits 84 too). Full set of 7 for $43 including shipping, around the same price as a EBC or "Clutch Factory" brand kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-13088-1009-CLUTCH-FRICTION-SET-7pcs-81-88-KZ-EX-305-KX-KDX-KXT-250-/161101728543?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2582694b1f&vxp=mtr

[barnett468]

hello;

killer score. those retail for 25.00 each. see link below. the orig springs are 6.50 each unless partzilla.com has them.

http://www.xtremeusa.com/OEMpartfinder.htm#/Kawasaki/KXT250-A2_Tecate_(1985)/CLUTCH_(%2785_A2)/KXT250-A2-1985/080182H-8

[barnett468]

as i mentioned, you can likely shim the springs with the AN washers and be ok and save 40.00.

[nd4speed]

The clutch springs for 84-85 Tecate can be found in so many bikes it would be hard to list them all, but here is one example: KX500 1989-2004

What is odd is the 1986 KX250 springs, same as 1987-88 KX500 or GT550 1983-2001 or ZR550 1991-99 (also many more)

Clutch Spring(SK) Vesrah No. SK-407
Q'ty Maker Model Year Code Name Year Categoly
5 Pcs KAWASAKI KX250 D2 86 Dirt

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KXT250 A2 Tecate 85 ATV

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KXT250 B1,B2 Tecate 86-87 ATV

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 A1,A2 80-81 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 A3,A4 Sports 550 82-83 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 C1,C2,C3,C4 LTD Series 80-83 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 D1 GPZ 550 81 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 F1 Spectre 550 83 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 F2 LTD Shaft 84 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 H1,H2 GPZ 550 82-83 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 M1 LTD 83 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI Z550 G6 89 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI ZR550 B1,B2,B3,trailprotrailpro Zephyr 550 90-93 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI ZX550 A1,A2,A3 GPZ Series 84-86 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KL600 A1 KLR 600 84 Dirt

5 Pcs KAWASAKI ZX600 A1,A2,A3 Ninja 600R 85-87 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI ZX600 B1 Ninja 600RX 87 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI ZX600 C1,C2,C3,C4,C5,C6,C7,C8,C9,C10 Ninja 600R 88-97 Street



1984 KXT250 clutch kit same as:
KDX 250 B2/B3 82-83
Z 250 A1-A3/B1-B2 79-81
ER 250 B1-B3 ʻScorpionʼ 83-88
GPZ 305 A1/B2-B10 83-96
KX 500 A1/A2 83-84


BARNETT----------------------------------
Clutch fiber friction plates for 1984/85 KXT250:
Kawasaki Clutches
Application Part # Description / Notes
KDX-250 250CC (1980-81) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KDX-250 250CC (1982-84) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KDX-250 250CC (1991-94) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-063006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-44-06002
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1974-76) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (5)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (4)
Spring Kits: 501-24-06057
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1978-79) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (5)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (4)
Spring Kits: 501-24-06057
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1980-81) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1982-84) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1987-90) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-059006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits: *303-45-10011_**303-45-20011 *Complete Kevlar Kit **Complete Carbon Fiber Kit
KX-250 250CC (1991) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-063006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KXF-250, Tecate 4 250CC (1987-88) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-059006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KXT-250, Tecate 250CC (1984-85) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KEF-300, Lakota 300 300CC (1995-03) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (5)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (4)
Spring Kits: 501-40-04058
Clutch Kits:
KLF-300, Bayou 300 300CC (1986-04) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (5)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (4)
Spring Kits: 501-40-04058
Clutch Kits:
KLF-300, Bayou 4X4 300CC (1989-05) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (5)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (4)
Spring Kits: 501-40-04058
Clutch Kits:
EX-305 , B1-GP 305CC (1983) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KZ-305, LTD 305CC (1981-88) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-45-05050
Clutch Kits:
KDX-400 400CC (1979-80) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KLF-400, Bayou 400 4X4 400CC (1993-99) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-063006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-04058
Clutch Kits:
KDX-420 420CC (1981) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KX-420 420CC (1980-81) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KDX-450 450CC (1982) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KX-500 500CC (1983-84) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-57-05007
Clutch Kits:
KX-500 500CC (1987-04) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-059006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-50-06055
Clutch Kits: *303-45-10011_**303-45-20011 *Complete Kevlar Kit **Complete Carbon Fiber Kit



1986 KXT250 Fiber friction plates:
Kawasaki Clutches
Application Part # Description / Notes
KX-250 250CC (1985) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10006 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1986) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10006 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-50-05055
Clutch Kits:
KXT-250, Tecate 250CC (1986-88) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10006 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-50-05055
Clutch Kits:
KX-500 500CC (1985-86) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10006 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-57-05007
Clutch Kits:

[emmie357]

as i mentioned, you can likely shim the springs with the AN washers and be ok and save 40.00.

Sorry, but I have never come across the term "AN" washer. I tried to look it up, an "A" washer is normal size/thickness, what does the "N" stand for? Or am I completely off?
Do you happen to know a size?

And thanks nd4speed, also your parts swap thread has been extremely helpful. Between that and the parts fiche, I've been able to get a bunch of kx250 parts on the cheap. Too bad trike parts go for a premium when the same parts are out there for cheap prices just because they fit "some old dirt bike".

Those clutch plates just fell into my lap when I knew I needed a new set... I couldn't be happier. Well, we'll see if anything changes once they are in my hands.

[barnett468]

hello emmie;


ok, i can't find them right now, it figures, lol. they are steel and have a thin wall like the copper ones in the photo below.

"sae" washers have a larger od and fender washers have a very large od. AN washers have one if the smallest od's.

you can also use brake line washers of the proper id.

measure the id of the spring or the spring post on the clutch. it might be around 5/16 or slightly larger. then get AN or brake line washers that id.

both are at industrial hardware supply stores or graingers. the brake line washers only are at motorcycle shops. i have done this several times so i know they make the size you need.

http://578e7a9bafc08e847f59-b21544d490ba797ec9de9d17e947de3d.r81.cf1.rackcdn.c om/lrs-2149ak_6362.jpg

[emmie357]

Thanks Barnett, I just picked some of them up at NAPA along with a banjo bolt for my rear caliper. They had a bunch of sizes in the book, so I'm sure I can get a set of copper ones off of them on the cheap. I'll try the size I have first for reference, they fit an M10 banjo bolt, and should be just about the right size (off the top of my head).

[barnett468]

hello emmie;

wow, cool, that was fast.

here's a photo of the "bleepin" AN washer. I'm posting it so you can see it anyway in case you ever need one, especially since it took a while to find the "bleepin" thing, lol. notice how the od is small compared to standard sae washers. i use them a lot under allen bolts when i use allens on aluminum auto intakes.

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRgtEodGIUWNT4VuKPAbUOnSAC1ponQ6 Zh70Xu_BbuHUhzEquIZJ2nB8g


don't forget to lightly sand those metal plates.

some brake washers are thin like around .018", others are around .028". either one is ok. i would not stack two .018" up on top of each other. that is a ton of additional preload when multiplied by 5. your springs are still in spec anyway so the biggest prob was your clutch plates. even if the plates are in spec they can still be glaved/burnt which causes them to slip.

[350for350]

Emmie. Here's something to consider. If everything is completely stock in the carb and air box, it's possible that the aftermarket silencer is making it run lean if it flows better than the stock one. Also check the jet sizes. Sometimes aftermarket carb rebuild kits will have jets that are numbered correctly, but are actually too small. The mechanic/owner at my closest dealership told me that. I didn't believe him until I took my 350x to Colorado a couple of years back. The 135 main jet I bought from him was visibly larger than the 138 that I took out. I will never use the jets from a rebuild kit after seeing that! If I can't clean mine out, I'll go buy one from a dealer. A lot of people aren't aware of this.

[emmie357]

While I'm waiting for the clutch parts I decided to change the front fork oil.

The were sitting really low, and were very soft. Some old stanky milky oily came out. I refilled with 15weight bel ray fork oil.
They sit higher now, but are still a little low. I decided to check the parts fiche to see if I was missing some spacers or something and sure enough, there is supposed to be a short upper spring and the long main spring. Well, I'm missing the uppers on both sides.

I had already considered purchasing progressive springs because I'm not the smallest guy, anybody know if I still need the short upper spring with them? Or should I go post a wanted ad for the uppers? Or could I use an appropriate sized spacer? I'll also need to of the guides that sit on top of the springs if I get a set of uppers.

[barnett468]

Hello emmie;


UPPER SPRINGS

He might have put the springs on the damper rods to shorten the travel for short track.

Put your bike on a box with the front wheel off the ground.

measure from the top of the tire [if it's 23 x 9 x 11], to the fender where the tire would hit if the susp bottomed out. if the tire is a different height then just calculate for that.

if that distance is less than around 9 1/2", your short springs are on the damper rods.

if they are missing you can cheat and go to any hardware store and buy springs that are close enough for government work.


SPRING GUIDES

You can use plain flat washers between the springs and on top if you want. yup they will work and no they will not hurt anything.


FORK OIL AND SPRINGS

I think the orig oil was 7.5w. it was 10 at the most. Unless you weight more than 200 lbs AND you plan on going off huge jumps, the stock weight oil and springs are fine, i guarantee you. i flogged the bejesus out of that thing during testing and racing and it never bottomed hard, therefore, i would try the stock ones before making any changes. you might save some money.


STIFFENING RIDE

You can also raise the fork oil level by 3/4" over stock and/or add air to the forks to stiffen them slightly if needed.

:beer

[emmie357]

Thanks Barnett,

I think you confused your gens... this is a first gen with the 22x11x10 front.

But I still think you are right. With the front tire off the ground there's 5&1/2- 6 inches of clearance to the bottom of the fender. If I yank the lowers down, they actually spring back up a little. I take it a full fork disassemble will be needed to correct this? If so I may as well replace all the seals while I'm in there.

[barnett468]

Thanks Barnett,

I think you confused your gens... this is a first gen with the 22x11x10 front.ok i'm a moron, thanks for the info, lol.

the spring info is correct still, i just had 86 tire on my mind because someone asked about them.

the 85 had around 8.7" of travel.

there is a spring on the damper rod of all forks. it is called a top out spring and colapses around around 1".

so 8.7 minus .625 [because the weight of the wheel colapses the spring slightly] = 8.075" of travel.

you can just measure from the top of the fork tube to the bottom of the tripple clamp then compress the forks, then subtract the small number from the big one and you should have around 8". if it is around 7 or less, most likely the top spring is under the rod also.


if your tire is stock, then your measurement suggests the top springs are under there.
yes you must diassemble them to remove it.


if youf



as far p

But I still think you are right. With the front tire off the ground there's 5&1/2- 6 inches of clearance to the bottom of the fender. If I yank the lowers down, they actually spring back up a little. I take it a full fork disassemble will be needed to correct this? If so I may as well replace all the seals while I'm in there.[/QUOTE]

[emmie357]

It looks like the top springs were moved to the bottom, and the short bottom springs were missing.
192831
Going to check the local salvage yard, I think he has some rusty forks that I may be able to cannibalize.

[jb2wheels]

If you're not in a hurry, I should have a complete set of internals for Tecate forks. You can have them for the price of shipping.

But it will likely be this weekend before I get to rounding them up.

[emmie357]

If you're not in a hurry, I should have a complete set of internals for Tecate forks. You can have them for the price of shipping.

But it will likely be this weekend before I get to rounding them up.

Wow, thanks. I probably wouldn't be able to get to the yard until next weekend anyway, got to go visit my mom for mother's day this weekend. I'll send you a PM.

[emmie357]

I got it running, and man does it rip. First time I ever rode a tecate.

I took it for a quick trip through the woods to get a feel for it, I feel like I'm leaning over the tank with the lowered front forks and an 86 KX250 dogbone adjusted up in the rear. jb2weels has some fork parts in the mail coming my way (big thanks to him) so that should be straightened out soon enough.

Rear master is failing, there is a rip in the bottom "boot" thing. I'm not sure what this master was off of, so I ordered a 90's kx125-kx250 rear master that I'll be able to fit. I have this sweet street sign rear master bracket that came with the trike:
193117

other then that it's pissing out a little rad fluid from (or from near) the rad cap. I replaced the rad cap... new one fits nice and tight, so I need to see if maybe there's a crack or pin hole somewhere around the rad cap. It kinda just leaves a few drops on top of the triple and on the right side of the gas tank, so the problem is in the rad cap area...

Here is a pic of the plug, it was a little black and oily, now looks like it got a little white-ish.
193118193119
I was running a BR8ES, now picked up a few B8ES plugs, so I can post up some pics again after running a fresh one.

Here is how it sits right now:
193120193123193124

Still needs some decals before I'm happy... I'm even considering a black DC tank shroud. I thought the red seat, tank, and number plate would look good together, but now I'm thinking it may be too much. I also have to fine tune the jetting.

[3 Wheel Drive]

Glad to hear you got it running! I'm about to install my new Sprock Racing BB engine in the frame but I'm hesitant because of the clutch. I met a guy on CL who works on a lot of quads.... He replaced my crank bearings and seals, installed the BB Kit and new gaskets,,,, and he said he checked the clutch and everything looked good.:confused::confused:

So here's what is going on, the clutch actuator arm can be pulled foward,,, actually I can put it in any position and it will not spring back into its normal/original place.

I picked it up non running, and before I tore it down the clutch felt the same. It could be pulled but it never sprang back or returned into its original position.


Will sanding the plates and adding an washers to the springs solve this problem? Or is there something else that needs to be addressed?

If it was not such a hassle to remove the clutch cover while installed in the frame I'd already have it in there. Sorry for hijacking your thread but there has been a lot of good info here regarding the 85 T3 Clutch.

Heres a few pics of the clutch arm in different positions.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2178

[aldochina]

came out sweet. I think the red tank would look good with some blk decals on the tank to tie it in like the original tank decal

[emmie357]

Glad to hear you got it running! I'm about to install my new Sprock Racing BB engine in the frame but I'm hesitant because of the clutch. I met a guy on CL who works on a lot of quads.... He replaced my crank bearings and seals, installed the BB Kit and new gaskets,,,, and he said he checked the clutch and everything looked good.:confused::confused:

So here's what is going on, the clutch actuator arm can be pulled foward,,, actually I can put it in any position and it will not spring back into its normal/original place.

I picked it up non running, and before I tore it down the clutch felt the same. It could be pulled but it never sprang back or returned into its original position.


Will sanding the plates and adding an washers to the springs solve this problem? Or is there something else that needs to be addressed?

If it was not such a hassle to remove the clutch cover while installed in the frame I'd already have it in there. Sorry for hijacking your thread but there has been a lot of good info here regarding the 85 T3 Clutch.

Heres a few pics of the clutch arm in different positions.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2178

I imagine you may be missing the ball that goes in with the push rod , or maybe the flat piece that sits at the end of the push rod... Something is preventing the rod from contacting the plate.

It was a pain to get the cover off with the engine installed at first, but once I got the method down it wasn't too bad. Just remove the kicker, foot peg, and rad hoses from the clutch cover. Then I had to pull the left side of the cover off to clear kicker gear, and rotate the cover clockwise until I can get the thin part of the clutch cover to pass between the peg's mounts and the clutch basket.

I scratched the paint on my clutch cover, so if it had to do it again I would try putting some painters tape on the peg mount. Good luck.

[emmie357]

came out sweet. I think the red tank would look good with some blk decals on the tank to tie it in like the original tank decal

Thanks, I was going to put a black Kawi logo on the tank like the 85's had, but haven't ordered one yet... I keep going back and forth on picking up an 84 tank decal... I know it's not the right one, but I like the looks of it and I think the black and white would look sweet. They run about $50 on ebay, that's really a drop in the bucket compared to what I've spent so far but seems pricy for a sticker.

Hey, you're not to far from me, I'm over in Altamont.

[jb2wheels]

I bought these tank decals for my red one. I actually asked the seller to make them based on some other decals he has.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171309217263?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

The originals are actually 3 colors: a very dark blue (might have been black 30 years ago) letters with white outline on red background.

These decals are black letters, white outline. I have not put them on the tank yet.

The seller made them exactly as I asked and they're inexpensive and good enough for my driver.

[nd4speed]

When you check your spark plug you are not actually supposed to look at the tip but down inside it on the porcelain for a ring of a certain color black to tan but not pure white(no color). Anyway it can be hard to see and looking at the tip gives one a good idea of how hot it and what it is burning anyway.

I would say your plug looks fine, you could just ride it until it fouls to see if the oil is not burning off, but if your arent revving it high and running like a racer it may not burn off real well like it is supposed to. Remaining idle is not good for motors.

Nice job! Did you put FMF universal turbine core on there?

It would be more fun with some lighter knobby tires. You wouldnt believe how much gain there is when you lessen the rotating mass on the rear. Unless those tires are light? Never had those kind before. They look good for snow or mud or something.

[nd4speed]

The radiator is probably leaking because it is often a complaint by other owners.

[emmie357]

Actually jb, I was looking for a set with a white outline. That's what I've seen on the green 85's. Not sure I've ever actually seen a red 85 with all the stock decals.
I'll probably order those exact ones.



Nice job! Did you put FMF universal turbine core on there?

It would be more fun with some lighter knobby tires. You wouldnt believe how much gain there is when you lessen the rotating mass on the rear. Unless those tires are light? Never had those kind before. They look good for snow or mud or something.

I put the FMF on myself. I cut a straight section from the curved connector pipe it came with and used that to go between the silencer and the stock pipe.

I'll eventually replace the tires, these are the ones that came on it, They still have some of the injection nubs and are in great shape. They are heavy and inflexible, must be 6 ply. Kenda Dirt Dogs, seems like a great mud tire. I wish they were 22 inches, I would throw them on my wife's Bayou in a heartbeat.

[barnett468]

hello;

what was wrong with your clutch?

how does it work now?


your plug looks a bit rich to me

was it a recent one or old?

does it ever burble like its rich?

what oil and ratio do you use?

[emmie357]

Clutch problem was definitely the plates, all replaced with NOS. Also went with new springs and a cable, hooks up great now.

It was a new plug after I rebuilt the engine, so it went through my prior oily gas and clogged carb issues. I put a fresh one in today. I'll probably take a peek at it tomorrow.
No burbling that I've noticed. It runs great at WOT, but the trails around here are too muddy, rocky, and windy for me to rip on. I keep having to run at low RPMs, which I know isn't helping. I need to find a more open riding area.

I'm still using the yamalube 2 I bought for break-in. It was 20:1 so I watered it down by mixing 2 gallons of pre-mixed, and a little less then 1 gallon of fresh gas. So not an exact measure, but it should around 32:1 (definitely above 30:1).

I took another look at those tires, they are 22x11-10. The wife's bayou is in need of new tires all around so I'll probably throw these on it's rear and order up some 20 inchers.
I also got the rear brakes working with a 90-something kx-250 rear master installed.
New fork parts should be here Monday. Then I'm almost all set.

[emmie357]

I have had this thing running great, forks rebuilt with jb2wheel's parts (thanks again), got it jetted well, been having a blast on it.

Now I'm looking for a skid plate. Anyone have any idea who makes one for the stock swinger? Or will a Mojave one (or something else) bolt up? The Mojave one looks promising by looking at pics, but if it was that easy I'm sure it would have been posted already...
I have a rear brake disc guard, but am in need or a chain guard. I ride real rocky trails, so it's only a matter of time before I smash something good.

Some updated pics too while I'm at it:
195188195189

[jb2wheels]

Looks great!

I have not put my stickers on yet.

As far as skid plates - I have no idea about an aftermarket set. The stock plate was actually 2 plates - 1 for the disk side and 1 for the sprocket side.

[emmie357]

Thanks jb, I actually got the stickers you linked to above. I like the look.
And I had to order a team green sticker from blue27's ebay store.

I would really like an aluminum aftermarket one piece skid plate, but have never seen one for the tecate.
I eyed up the DG plate on my blaster, but I don't think it will work. It bolts outside the carrier between the carrier and the rotor on one side and the sprocket on the other.

[jeswinehart]

I wanted the same thing for my Tecate Emmie. I ended up making mine about 4 years ago for the 4 inch exstended 86/87 Tecate swing arm I have on my 84/85 halfbreed.
So perhaps this may give you some ideas to fab your own. I never been on a rocky trail with mine, just sand and it works as I expected, slides over sand very well.
I meant to look for the oem guards but forgot when I got to snapping some pictures but I believe I have both sides and no use for them.
john

[emmie357]

Hmmm...

I thought of making one, but couldn't think of how to space it away from the arm. What is that you used, a hunk of acrylic?

I was thinking of riveting a bent piece of sheet metal , but it would have to be pretty thick to not collapse on impact. A thick piece of rubber may work.
I'm interested in the chain side guard if you have one... I already have a brake side guard mounted up.

Unfortunately I've got nothing but rocky trails around here. Every now and then you find a stretch you can open it up on, but you got to cross rocks, stumps, and roots to get to them. Don't even get me started on the mud...
On the plus side, there's a nice abandoned shale pit to rip around in.

[aldochina]

hey emmie, looks good with the decal. Cool you are rather close to me! I have an aunt there, my wife has family there as well. been to the fairgrounds obviously. ya, fabbing your own is going to be the ticket, I am sure if they made one tecateDan would have one mounted. I must say though we ride the roughest crap around and I think his sprocket and disk have faired pretty well! He was just talking about bending one up, so they must not make one.
Id be down for a jaunt some time if you have some legit trails to put around on! :)

[jeswinehart]

Well darn it,,, what I have is 2 brake side skid plates :(.
I spent some time looking at the loose swingarm I have (also have a complete roller ~ just no chain guard),,,, going to play around with a few ideas tonight after work about fabbing something up that should not take too long. Just the basic brackets for now.
Last year Dan picked up a couple of rear brake rotors from me ,,, saying the terrain out there just beats them to heck + back.

Oh yeah,,, the spacer material I used is derlin (same I used for the chain rub on my skid plate ~ very noisey w/o a chain rub)

[aldochina]

funny swine, I did see a spare rear disk in his truck while searching for my keys!! Love that tec with the polished tank! lucious!!

[emmie357]

Stopped at a few places today... looks like my options in sheet metal are steel, thin aluminum sheet, or aluminum diamond plate.
Boy that diamond pate is pricy too, and I don't think a diamond plate skid plate will look quite rite...

It looks like it will be a lot easier to just build a chain guard. I may go check another place or two for aluminum tomorrow.
Did some internet searching for tecate skid plates and nada...

[jeswinehart]

I am lucky we have a scrap dealer who lets folks roam around and buy what ever it is a fella may be in need of. I get all my alu needs from them at a more then reasonable price.
After work I tinkered around with material I had on hand, something to practice with and get it to where it will be a bolt on then I will use alu flat stock + do final cutting/shaping
Steel brackets will most likely be the same after I change the front one (needs to be a wee bit taller for proper chain clearance),,,, just will need to smooth edges on those.
Was not able to spend as much garage time as I would have liked too tonight but will plug away little by little.

[emmie357]

That's pretty much what I thought it should look like in my head.
I was thinking that up front it may be easy to use standoffs (or cut pipe/rod) and long bolts into the threaded holes in the underside of the swingarm.
They should be pretty beefy and hold up well to impact.

[Cassmanbearcat]

does the 85 tecate have the what they call the power valve in the motor or is that just the 86? guy has 85 for sale but he doesnt know anything about the trike and i dont either but i was wanting to know this before i buy it if i do,, thanks in advance

[The_Steve_Man]

Just 86 and up have the power valve

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