looking for suggestive help with my 110 please.

[DickyDanger]

1984 110. Completely stock except for tires. motor has never been taken apart Has a new spark plug. New air filter and fresh oil change. When I start the trike it starts first pull and idles like a brand new machine. The pilot screw is set at 1 1/4 and tge idle screw is set at about 1 7/8 or 2 turns. The problem is that when it is in gear just putting around slightly off idle but below mid throttle it pops/sputtered/backfires. When you high mid range on the throttle or go full speed reguardless of what gear it operates normal. What should I be looking at here. Thanks in advance for any insight you may have

[90guy]

Sounds to me to be a plugged Pilot jet or the pilot jet circuit.

[DickyDanger]

Thanks for the tip. I will try taking the carb apart and cleaning the jet with a strand of copper wire. Carb cleaner and compressed air. I took it for a ride yesterday and with the ground thawing out everything in the woods was really soft so I kept it at low rpms so I didnt tear up too much earth but at the speed I was trying to move the bike just went pa pa pa pa pa pa pa like I described in the original post but when I hammered the throttle down or just pushed it farther then the pa pa pa pa backfiring/missing/popping stage it didnt do it any more until I went back to the low rpm crawling stage again.

[shortline10]

Try running it on full or half choke .

[DickyDanger]

Try running it on full or half choke .

Why do you suggest that?

[trike savior]

if it runs better with the choke on after it warms up, it indicates you do have a lack of fuel. on these carbs the choke limits the air. less air requires less fuel. if it runs better that way then you know for sure it is running too lean (ie. plugged up somewhere) with choke off.

if there is no difference then you more than likely have a rich condition. bad float valve or float. the float on these bikes is made of plastic and they do get wore out and cause it to run rich

[shortline10]

Just try it and get back to me lol
These 110's can be very temperamental could be an air box issue as well .



Why do you suggest that?

[CRAZY70MAN]

Lack of fuel.Mine does it after 20-30 minutes of constant wheelies!!!! Really.........check your fuel flow starting at the tank, then petcock.....maybe the carb if the gunk got that far. Do you run inline fuel filters??? If that does not cure it look to the pilot jet and it's circuit.......

[DickyDanger]

fuel flows free from the tank and i did clean it with vinegar over the winter to get rid of the slight surface rust. i did not take apart or inspect the pet cock when i last had the carb off so maybe i can look there. does the 110 have a metal screen in the pet cock like some other models? i was looking up prices on the float and float valve and after shipping im looking at 50$ yikes. i do not run inline filters but i guess that i should invest in some. both fuel lines are new as well. im hoping i can get over to my parents this weekend and tinker with it. it really does run well mid to top end just not down low where i want it for crawling around i do appreciate all the help every one is giving me i hope i can get it running the way i want it to

[DickyDanger]

Well I took the carb back apart. I checked the fuel filter in the carb and that looked nice and cleaned but I blasted it with carb cleaner anyways. All jets seem to be clear carb cleaner sprayed through them nicely. I also tried running it with half choke on with no change in performance. Still wants to back fire and not have clean throttle at low rpms

[barnett468]

1984 110. Completely stock except for tires. motor has never been taken apart Has a new spark plug. New air filter and fresh oil change. When I start the trike it starts first pull and idles like a brand new machine. The pilot screw is set at 1 1/4 and tge idle screw is set at about 1 7/8 or 2 turns. The problem is that when it is in gear just putting around slightly off idle but below mid throttle it pops/sputtered/backfires. When you high mid range on the throttle or go full speed reguardless of what gear it operates normal.

I took the carb back apart. I checked the fuel filter in the carb and that looked nice and cleaned but I blasted it with carb cleaner anyways. All jets seem to be clear carb cleaner sprayed through them nicely. I also tried running it with half choke on with no change in performance. Still wants to back fire and not have clean throttle at low rpms

fuel flows free from the tank and i did clean it with vinegar over the winter to get rid of the slight surface rust. i did not take apart or inspect the pet cock when i last had the carb off so maybe i can look there. does the 110 have a metal screen in the pet cock like some other models? i was looking up prices on the float and float valve and after shipping im looking at 50$ yikes. i do not run inline filters but i guess that i should invest in some. both fuel lines are new as well. im hoping i can get over to my parents this weekend and tinker with it. it really does run well mid to top end just not down low where i want it for crawling around i do appreciate all the help every one is giving me i hope i can get it running the way i want it toHello DickyDanger;

Since your bike idles consistently and your mix screw setting is correct, it strongly suggests that your pilot jet is the correct size or very close to it and it is not plugged. It’s really that simple.

It is not a fuel flow prob. If it was it would not run well above idle like you say it does.

It’s a little strange that the choke has no affect.


How much time is on the new plug?

Are your tires larger than stock?

Is your gearing stock?

Do you know the jet sizes?

What is your elevation?

How much choke is required to start it?

What is the air temp when you start it?


SPARK PLUG

Take the plug out and report what it looks like.

Almost white = very lean
Lite tan = slightly lean
Medium tan = ideal
Dark tan = slightly rich
black and dry = very rich
black and moist/gooey = burning oil and possible slightly rich

Check the plug gap, if it is outside of .024” - .032”, I would correct it.


PLUG SPARK

Lay the plug on the cylinder and kick it over and see what the spark looks like, yellow or pale blue?
The fact that it starts easily and runs well suggests that your prob is not due to a weak spark but that’s no guarantee.

Try another new plug [yours might be faulty but I doubt it] or try cleaning that one with a wire brush but it could still be faulty, new is safer.
If your spark plug cap is removable and your plug wire is long enough, I would remove it and cut ¼” off of the wire to insure a good connection.


CARB

Try raising the needle all the way then lowering it all the way to see if one is better than the other.

If it” burbles/sputters” upon acceleration, it is rich.

If it simply fails to accelerate for a second like it is out of gas, it is lean.

If it pops it’s hard to determine.


VALVES

Check the valve adjustment.

If it was a burnt or leaking/tight valve, the prob would be consistent.


COMPRESSION TEST

I would do one just so you know what you have. I do not think your prob is compression related.


FYI – I did all the development work on this bike when I was at Kawi and I can assure you that In stock form near sea level, this bike will lift the front tire off the ground if you speed shift it at full throttle on level ground. If it does not do that it is not running properly.

Since you want it for crawling around, if your tires are stock size, I would suggest trying a smaller front sprocket once it runs right.



Here's my avatar. I named her Bacon. Isn’t she cute?

Hi, my name is Bacon Aren't I cute.

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTDheK_NT7A9cIdJnV_1Pg7lGbLDWNu5 AVQnY60FToKElt_Wip72n1nHA

[CRAZY70MAN]

Did you run a steel wire horizontally thru the pilot? You must use a steel wire that is ridged from a wire brush or such. Make sure you can see light thru it when you hold it up and look thru it. I would double check......

[DohcBikes]

Please do not clean your jets with a steel wire, as they are made of brass, and can easily be damaged.

[Ghostv2]

Please do not clean your jets with a steel wire, as they are made of brass, and can easily be damaged.
+1 on that, read the instructions on carb cleaner. It even says do not use a wire, you can damage the jet easily.

Check for air leaks, that could also cause backfiring, inconsistent idling, etc.
Thats what was wrong with mine.

[DohcBikes]

+1 on that, read the instructions on carb cleaner. It even says do not use a wire, you can damage the jet easily.

Check for air leaks, that could also cause backfiring, inconsistent idling, etc.
Thats what was wrong with mine.So it WAS an air leak...
Glad you got yours fixed ghost!

Ya, no steel wires in jets, it was the one of the first things Motorcycle Mechanics Institute confirmed for me.

[Vealmonkey]

Try running the trike without the gas cap on the fuel tank. Sometimes rust can clog the fuel cap vent and cause crazy things to happen. It's a simple test, cost is nothing and labor involved is nest to nothing. A clogged vent can make the fuel not flow very well.

[DickyDanger]

Sorry for the delay everyone. Its been hectic lately. I finally got a chance to mess with the 110 this evening. I installed a new plug along with both two new jets for the carb and new gaskets for the carb and intake. Its finally not sputtering or popping at low rpms anymore (so far) it got dark out and quite cold (34) out so I called it quits. I have never adjusted the valves yet. Im going to take it out for a long ride and see if its performance holds up. As I left it tonight I was fighting to get it to idle with out stalling. I had to have the idle screw turned a little higher than I normally would to keep it running. So as long as it still runs well tomorrow I will have to figure out why it wants to die at normal idle now

[barnett468]

are your jets the same size as the ones you removed?

[barnett468]

adjust the fuel mix screw.

[DickyDanger]

Yes the jets are the same size as the one replaced I have the fuel screw set at 1 and a 1/8 where should I go from there in or out?

[DickyDanger]

I got it figured out still does not run perfect but runs alot better now unfortunately an hour into my ride I got a thorn in the front tire and I had to call it a day. And the tire size I am running is 22x11-9 in the back and I think its 22x11-8 in the front. The rear rims and hubs are off of another atc

[DickyDanger]

I have another question and hope some one can chime in here so that I do not have to start a new thread. What year complete clutches will fit in my 84?. Am I better off spending 40$ for a known good complete swap and go clutch or should I be looking at the 20$ "new" clutch rebuild kits which seem to contain just plates and springs? Thanks

[barnett468]

Hello DickyDanger;


The clutch assemblies and individual parts are the same for all years and both the 3 and 4 wheel model. I would only use original factory clutch plates on this bike, they are virtually indestructible.

You can get them at the sites below. the fiber plates are around $22.00 each.

Orig fiber plate p/n 13088-1017 superseded by new p/n 13088-1113.

http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1987-a1-klf110-north-america_model11386/partslist/E1350.html#results

http://www.xtremeusa.com/OEMpartfinder.htm#/Kawasaki/KLT110-A1_KLT110_(1984)/CLUTCH/KLT110-A1-1984/080193B-13


I would also lightly sand the metal plates with around 400 wet with water or WD40 to remove any glaze.

[DickyDanger]

Is splitting the cases required in clutch replacement or do you just remove the right side clutch cover? Trying to learn if I can do this with the motor in the trike or not thank you for your help

[barnett468]

Is splitting the cases required in clutch replacement or do you just remove the right side clutch cover? Trying to learn if I can do this with the motor in the trike or not thank you for your helpeasy deal. just remove the clutch cable and clutch cover and re-install cover carefully.

[DickyDanger]

i didnt know they had clutch cables? its a stock 110 honda motor. i will have to open up the repair manual

[90guy]

i didnt know they had clutch cables? its a stock 110 honda motor. i will have to open up the repair manual

It's a 110. So it's semi Manual. There will be no clutch cable on this machine for you no splitting the case at all. Just pull of the clutch side half case. Which will be your right hand side case. Can easily be done while the motor is in the trike.

[DickyDanger]

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=280581722669&alt=web this is the clutch I was going to grab and instal in mine unless any one objects

[barnett468]

i didnt know they had clutch cables? its a stock 110 honda motor. i will have to open up the repair manualsorry, i was thinking about a klt 110. my bad, lol.

the site i listed has your parts also as well as some others. barnett might sell plates too.

[barnett468]

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=280581722669&alt=web this is the clutch I was going to grab and instal in mine unless any one objectsi don't understand what you are wanting to achieve.

you have a clutch. if its worn why don't you just buy the parets it needs instead of buying a used part that might fail soon?


you can get new orig honda parts here.

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc110-1983-usa_model7167/partslist/E++07.html#results

[DickyDanger]

my clutch is completely wiped out so I was looking for something that I could buy throw back in and keep on riding while I rebuild the clutch thats in it right now. My only other toys are a xr 75 crf50 and honda fourtrax 350 4x4 which my girlfriend rides. Shes doesnt like having to double up so im looking for a wuick fix to keep it moving and I can rebuild thd worn one while its out