View Full Version : Honda 110--what to check???
diesel
01-24-2014, 05:38 PM
I have the book, but need some help:
bike was running fine. No issues. Started first pull...life was good.
WAs riding it up a hill, on a dirt road, so not a big hill.
so here is what happened. The bike started to loose power. no smoke or anything.
so I down shifted, thinking I was in too high of a gear...same thing but that's what it felt like..
It would start and wouldn't pull it's own weigh then died.
I have a title for this machine, got a nice honda rack for it, newer plastics.... so I really don't want to trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro can it.
I am going to replace the carb (took it apart and lost the little "c" for the needle) it's a chinese knock off that worked great.
Was thinking this might be related to the CDI...pickup thingy, etc.... Any one use a replacement for these?
Thoughts?
kb0nly
01-24-2014, 06:06 PM
I would check compression on it, it might have lost power due to losing compression. Wouldnt be the first time i saw that, but generally it will also smoke some as well due to oil getting past the rings, but it could be a bad valve as well.
CRAZY70MAN
01-24-2014, 06:15 PM
Start with the small things. Take the carb apart and clean it and when you think it is clean.....clean it one more time. Make sure to get a wire into all the orifices and that they are clear. Do you use an inline fule filter?? Make sure the fuel is getting out of the tank to the carb as well, may have rust in it?? There is a filter on some of the feul petcocks as well that may need cleaned...... KB ^^^^^^ in the above post has a link to the manuals that may help you.
trike savior
01-24-2014, 06:43 PM
I would start with carb as well but while you have it off, do a compression test on motor before you spend anymore money. that e-clip can be gotten at any hardware store. make sure you check for good flow from the tank. I have had rocks and rust clog the lines. Does sound like compression to me as well though. I am sure it was good and hot, and if it was a little on the lean side, lugging it out on a hill is enough to melt it down quick. but I hope that's not the case. normally when electrics go, they just go, and the motor dies.
diesel
01-24-2014, 06:48 PM
thanks for the replies...I will go get the clip from the hardware store...
I really hope it's not compression...I just rebuilt that damn thing...son of a......................................
coolpool
01-26-2014, 01:53 AM
What year are we talking about? I immediately thought points but you mentioned cdi. Can you confirm the year?
zppeacock
01-26-2014, 02:02 AM
Check the plug? My 110 likes to foul the plugs out every once in a while.
diesel
01-26-2014, 10:29 PM
Well, I got a compression tester, it didn't fit the hole...dammit....
To clarify, this is CDI motor...the head jug etc...is from a points motor...but essentially it is a bunch of parts.
So, I started with the electrical system. I pulled the plug and it looked fine, but I pulled the cord with it out, no spark.
I tried a nail, per the book, no spark, I then pulled the plug from my 200m which is fine, but no spark...
So, I don't want to dump and ton of money in this, but with no spark, no running.
The trouble shooting in my 200 manual said weak spark would cause loss of power.
The wiring on this thing sucks, at best....the headlight and taillight don't work. I really need a simplified wiring schematic too if anyone can hook me up.
The cdi sealed box looks like it was supposed to have 6 prongs, but only 5 are there???
More thoughts? thinking of buying some parts of amazon.
diesel
01-26-2014, 10:46 PM
well, I just had an ah-ha moment, the kill switch was off...big fat blue spark, despite the mess of wiring...So I am thinking it has to be the top end...
:(
zppeacock
01-27-2014, 12:06 AM
Lol, Mine had great spark but I could never get it to run. Everything tested ok, I replaced the stator coil on a guess from some tips on here and it started right up after I changed it.
kb0nly
01-27-2014, 12:18 AM
The wiring diagram in the manual is about as simplified as it gets, and is honestly quite simple! As for the CDI, yes its a 5 pin CDI, they just used a 6 pin connector.
diesel
01-27-2014, 12:15 PM
I am going to check the compression on it.
IF it's sparking blue (which is what it supposed to do) what will changing the stator coil gain me?
There is also a guy who is local with a running 110, but it has no title...for 170.....maybe I will see if I can work with him?
What kind of compression tester do I need? the one my buddy lent me was too big for the spark plug hole.
barnett468
01-27-2014, 12:54 PM
IF it's sparking blue (which is what it supposed to do) what will changing the stator coil gain me?
I am going to check the compression on it. What kind of compression tester do I need? the one my buddy lent me was too big for the spark plug hole.cheap gauges are often off by 20 lbs. a good gauge is around 100.00. one with a short small hose is best.
if you have blue spark it should be fine.
look at the plug after trying to start it, if its wet it might be flooding, check the float level and check for a bad needle and seat on the floats.
if the plug is dry after trying to start, it is not getting fuel. you can spray a shot of starting fluid or flammable brake cleaner in it to see if it runs then find the fuel prob. some people might suggest against the starting fluid etc.
trike savior
01-27-2014, 05:47 PM
nothing wrong with the autozone $40 kit. it is the most expensive kit they have but it is the only one that has all the little adapters to fit various spark plug holes. they are very accurate as long as you do not drop them. they are also very useful as a cylinder leak down tester. you can remove the Schrader valve (like in tire valve stem) from the hose and thread into cylinder. instead of clipping on gauge you can hook up to air compressor regulated down to about 20 psi. hold the engine at TDC with a breaker bar and listen. Air escaping in intake or exhaust means you have a burnt valve, air will escape into crankcase past rings but if it is excessive you might have problems with piston or rings.
another test you need to try is the airbox test. this will help determine if you are running too rich or lean. remove fenders and air box lid and filter. If it runs better with no air box lid then you are running too rich. if there is no change then try holding a few fingers over the intake hole, blocking a good portion of the air. if this makes it run better you are too lean.
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