Clutch availability

[Hair Bear Bunch]

Hi, looking for advice...
I went to my regular parts supplier for a price for the oneway clutch on my 250ES. First they said it was on the right of the engine behind the clutch (Clymer manual, page 185, fig 1, item 10), then after a discussion they said it was on the left behind the generator rotor (page 128, fig 122, item 5), then they concluded it was no longer available from Honda???
Where do you guys get them?

[barnett468]

if you starter works but your clutch disengages upon decelleration from rpm above around 1000 then you need the clutch side bearing.

i think both are available new from venders that bought orig stock, try.

cmsnl.com

partzilla.com.

i found the right one for 54.00 but forgot where, sorry.

there is a taiwan pos for around 35.00. i would not use it.

once you have the part number, enter it in google search to get find the best price.

[Hair Bear Bunch]

It's the clutch that causes the 'shutdown clank' that I'm looking for, just trying to get a feel for costs before I tear into it.
Thanks for your reply.

[barnett468]

CLUTCH BEARING 91101-HA0-003 OR 91101-HA0-004...$93.91 US DOLLARS.

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc250es-1986-usa_model7185/91101ha0004-clutch-oneway_91101ha0003/


78.26

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/ATV/1986/ATC250ES+A/CLUTCH/parts.html

[Hair Bear Bunch]

Ahh, part numbers. Always useful.
Thanks Guys.

[barnett468]

Ahh, part numbers. Always useful.
Thanks Guys.No prob, hope it helps.

[Flyingw]

The starter clutch is behind the flywheel. Its discontinued for the ES/SX. They do pop up on Ebay (new) and they are year specific. You can research parts with part numbers here.

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_select1.asp?cat=ATVs&mfg=Honda

Honda Factory Manuals

http://www.kb0nly.info/ATC/index.php

[roostin atc]

I just bought one from Honda for my 200es big red 1984. It was around a hundred dollars.

[roostin atc]

I just bought one from Honda for my 200es big red 1984. It was around a hundred dollars.
They are discontinued cause I needed one. I was thinking of the cdi that I was surprised they were in stock.

[Hair Bear Bunch]

Thanks everyone, I've still yet to start on it but all advice greatly recieved.

[Hair Bear Bunch]

All I've done so far is remove the starter reduction casing and the gears. From here I can see the gear that is on the crankshaft, and I can turn it way as it freewheels but not the other, as it locks onto the crankshaft. Would that suggest the clutch is ok or does it mean nothing???
Apologies in advance as there's likely to be more silly questions as I go on.

[barnett468]

All I've done so far is remove the starter reduction casing and the gears. From here I can see the gear that is on the crankshaft, and I can turn it way as it freewheels but not the other, as it locks onto the crankshaft. Would that suggest the clutch is ok or does it mean nothing???
Apologies in advance as there's likely to be more silly questions as I go on.from post 2.
if you starter works but your clutch disengages upon decelleration from rpm above around 1000 then you need the clutch side bearing.

[barnett468]

if you hear any spinning noise after you shut it off it is also the clutch bearing.

[Hair Bear Bunch]

Hi All,
When the machine is running it's fine. No problems with acceleration or deceleration.
The symptoms I have are a loud metalic clanking sound when running the starter, a loud clank on shutdown, and a want to destroy the starter reduction gears on a regular basis!

[barnett468]

make a video of the sound holding cell phone close to side of eng that makes the sound, put it on youtube then post the link to it here.

does is sound like the starter is turning while the eng is running?

is there a way to check this buy removing cover and looking at it?

[Hair Bear Bunch]

I'll give it a go, could take a while as the bike isn't here but I'll see what I can do.
It doesn't sound like the starter turns with the engine running, I'll try to confirm that.
The other symptom I have is the kickstart 'slips'. It connects with something, but doesn't turn the engine.

[barnett468]

this is either the 1 way clutch bearing or the teeth on the kickstarter.

[Flyingw]

More than likely the one way clutch on the right side is bad. Those are still available from Honda. Its job is to couple the kicker to the crank for kick starting.

[Hair Bear Bunch]

Ok, Thanks for that. I'm now starting to get my head around the basics as I've never had an engine of this type apart before so learning all the way!
I don't expect I'll get much done now 'till after christmas but I'll keep updating as I go.
Thanks again, Rob.

[Hair Bear Bunch]

I think I've had a bit of a lightbulb moment. Could someone confirm my thinking please...

1, If the rh clutch fails, then the kickstart slips.

2, If the rh clutch fails, it allows the engine to turn backwards slightly on shutdown forcing the lh clutch to spin the starter gears backwards and break them.

3, The whiring noise on shutdown is the centrifugal clutch drum freewheeling which it shouldn't do.

4, Removing and replacing the rh crank case doesn't affect the clutch adjustment.

5, The centrifugal clutch nut is 27mm.

Thanks.

[Hair Bear Bunch]

I can't believe it's taken me so long to move this job on!
So today I've dismantled a parts engine to try to learn what I'm doing. I've managed to extract the flywheel and have located the oneway bearing. The two halves of the clutch turn independently one way and lock together the other as I'm guessing they should so my intention is to get to the same position with the bike and simply swap the flywheels. My concern here is that with the two halves of the clutch separated I can move the bearing both ways with fingers.
Now I'm wondering if there are any visible indications of a faulty bearing before I reassemble?
Thanks.

[just ben]

I thought you concluded it was the right side bearing not the flywheel side?

[Hair Bear Bunch]

Doh! Sorry, should read 'I've managed to extract the centrifugal clutch'!

That's what happens when you multitask... I was reading up on testing the stator/rotor assembly while posting.

[Hair Bear Bunch]

So here we go. Took the rh cover off the bike, and went to take the clutch off using a socket and breaker bar. Interestingly with the machine in gear the engine still turned over so proving the sprag was slipping. A quick bash with the air spanner and the clutch pack came straight off. Took the sprag out and it was obvious that the circular spring that holds it together was damaged so after a close inspection of the sprag from the donor it was fitted and reasembled. A quick retest of trying to undo with a bar and the machine in gear the cutch appeared to lock solid. Engine turned over ok with the kickstart but with a strange whirring noise. A quick poke around in the lh side showed the starter gears were turning, this was caused by the starter gear apparently being jammed solid on the back of the flywheel, darn strange as I'd examined it through the reduction gear cover only a couple of weeks ago. Lh cover came off and there was no way that gear was going to free off so took the flywheel/starter off the donor engine and replaced the whole unit. That seems to have cured the clanking noise I was getting on the starter, and on shutdown I get a slight split-second whirr but no bangs or clanks.
And as a flywheel removal tool, I used a scrap wheelstud from a farm trailer! Screwed straight in. Now in my trike spares box just in case...
When I first looked at doing this I thought it would be somewhat beyond me but with your help it's done. All your assistance has been very much appreciated.
Rob.