Engineering and extending my own 83 200x Swingarm-- Cut and weld pics!

[rg97]

Hi all
I've been wanting to put an extended swinger on my X ever since I had it apart for the stroker, and now it's becoming a reality. The original 83 swingarm was crap, the double tube design only lasted that year, and so I bought a tube swingarm from brendon (yaegerb- thanks again!). Once I recieved it, I stress relieved it in my ultrasonic hot tank cleaner (160-170F water for over an hour) (<-- EDIT: Dont believe this... my dad was just messing with me and told me to put this in there). And just today I got the chance to order some rectangular tubing from metric metals online (60x30x2.30mm and free for a 6" sample) and also to glassblast the swinger (see pics). Now what I have to do is:
1. cut the swinger (right in front of the carrier)
2. cut the tubing (2" lengths with a 2.8 degree angle on one side)
3. MIG or TIG the two together
4. Powder coat it white or red

Any input is appreciated... What weld to use, tips, ANYTHING helps... THANKS

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01739_zps66fc94f3.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01739_zps66fc94f3.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01740_zps915f9c21.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01740_zps915f9c21.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01738_zps04ae93c4.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01738_zps04ae93c4.jpg.html)

[KASEY]

you need to sleeve the inside to get some strength,, I would use some 1x2 I would also cut it right behind the brakeline mount so you have some distance to put the sleeving inside,,

[rg97]

That sounds like a good idea, i can get the exact ID when i cut it, so then i can get another steel
tube from metric metals.

[M.Pargiello]

I have 6 inch sections in my +4, just butt welding will probably end up failing

[fabiodriven]

Why are you extending it?

[El Camexican]

I stress relieved it in my ultrasonic hot tank cleaner (160-170F water for over an hour)

I doubt that soak in the hot tub stress relived your swing-arm. It takes a lot more heat than that and a controlled cooling process to stress relieve steel, but no matter, you swinger is mild steel, not chromoly, so it shouldn’t need stress reliving, just don’t do anything to speed the cooling process after you do your welding. What Kasey said about an inner sleeve is the best way to add strength, but if it was me I’d use something long enough to allow me to drill a couple holes on both ends of the cut swing-arm and plug weld the sleeve as well. I don’t know the size that fits (Kasey likely has done a few of these, so if he says 2 X 1 it probably fits perfectly). If you still aren’t sure you can put a fish plate(s) over the splices as well. Make sure everything is clean before you weld and a little pre-heating with a torch before welding wouldn’t hurt anything.

[rg97]

Why are you extending it?

Because a durablue or a custom made one runs more than i have for a budget.

So instead of throwing a piece of tube that is the same OD as the swingarm and welding that, i'll find some 1x2 tube or similar and put it as a sleeve inside then weld it to the swingarm .

[rg97]

just don’t do anything to speed the cooling process after you do your welding.

Thats a good way to ruin a good weld, stick red hot metal into a bucket of water (unless you're hardening/tempering tool steel)

Thanks for all the replies, I may have had a bad failure if I did what I was going to do

[oldskool83]

i've never been a fan on cutting and extending thing. you could get new tube and just weld it all in there. Round was used for my 200x/250R/400ex/450R swingarm set up.

Maybe that will give you some idea.

Never use a butt weld at all, ever.

[El Camexican]

If you are only going to go with the smaller I.D. tube on the inside make sure you use something thicker than the stock material. I think the heaviest 2 X 1 is readily available in is 1/8” or 11ga. The stronger option is to find a tube that is larger than what you have and place it over the stock tube. That way you can be sure of having a stronger section, but that size may be hard to find. If you do go the 2 X 1 route consider gusseting either the top or bottom of the swinger sides with say a nicely cut triangular gusset that doesn’t interfere with anything else.. This will add a bunch of strength if it covers the added section and extends a couple inches on either side.

[rg97]

The largest thickness 2x1 tube I can find is 3/16". That pretty thick and will work if I decide to do the inside route

[rg97]

El camexican it turns out that my dad was just joking when he told me that the hot tank cleaner would stress relieve the swingarm. Not knowing any better I put that into the thread... and he was joking and wasnt serious about that.
anyways... before I throw out the idea of butt welding it together, has anyone actually had a butt welded +2 swinger fail? I can understand if it was like a +6 or longer but not on just +2

[El Camexican]

El camexican it turns out that my dad was just joking when he told me that the hot tank cleaner would stress relieve the swingarm. Not knowing any better I put that into the thread... and he was joking and wasnt serious about that.
anyways... before I throw out the idea of butt welding it together, has anyone actually had a butt welded +2 swinger fail? I can understand if it was like a +6 or longer but not on just +2

I think I like your Dad!:lol:

Don't even think about a butt weld! It is not a matter of if it will break, only of when it will break and my guess would be the first time you go over anything larger than a pot hole. The length of the splice has nothing to do with it. Are you wanting to keep it looking stock? If so there are ways, like covering spliced 2 X 1 with thin plates and gringing the welds flat. BTW 3/16" wall is VERY strong.

[rg97]

So I measured the ID of the swingarm, and the width is .008 out (the 1" tube is .008" smaller than the ID and thats OK to use) but the 2" height is 3/16" too small, so I would probably have to get some 3/32" shim material for each side of the sleeve and square it up... then I might have to shave down some parts if it still doesnt want to fit.

[barnett468]

if you use a shim it will need to be welded to the inner sleeve if you plan on welding the top of the sleeve to the swing arm.

do you plan on drilling like 4, 3/8" size holes on eaxh side of each end of swing arm then filling holes with weld to weld sleeve to arm?

you should also bolt it to a jig.

[barnett468]

you can also reduce swing arm flex considerably by simply adding either another rectangular bar half way between the existing one and the rear carrier or making a rectangular cross brace but that might look tacky and that would be bad.

[rg97]

Ok so here goes. What we have decided to do is do a half sleeve half butt weld design. The best way I can explain is with pics from inventor.
First pic is swinagrm (after cut)
Second pic is swinagrm (with extension (dark part))
Third Pic: extension itself

OK so. The extension has a piece of 6" 11 ga (.125) thick steel tac welded to it (hole in top & bottom extension). Then, the "arms" slip inside of the old swingarm, where they get tac welded (the holes once again). Then, the whole extension gets a weld all the way around both sides of the swinger, on the front and back of the extension.
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/Untitled_zps3ddbfbf9.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/Untitled_zps3ddbfbf9.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/Untitled_zpsb47b15ee.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/Untitled_zpsb47b15ee.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/Untitled_zpsfe6427ec.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/Untitled_zpsfe6427ec.jpg.html)

[barnett468]

won't do a thing for you.

you need plates on the side to reduce folding upright. L brackets are good because they can be welded on the top or bottom also. otherwise just 3/16" - 1/4" thick plate.

the side of the arm and new extension need to have at least 4, 3/8" holes in each end of swing arm and in new section.

weld plates to one end of arm or extension.

but weld extension

weld these holes. this will structurally fix the reinforcement to all pieces.



you should also add the rectangular cross brace i suggested if there is room.

[rg97]

If it needs plate on the side, thats not a problem, They can be added in on the side of the extension the exact same way that the top and bottom pieces were (holes in side of extension and also in the side of the swingarm). I can use some pretty thick sheet too, up to 1/4" or so.

[Mickey Dunlap]

**********************

[rg97]

Mickey I agree 100% with you, but that apparently isnt good enough for everyone else... I was going to butt weld it together but the other members are trying to convince me otherwise.
Heck, if you can use it on your race bike, I would bet that that its as strong as anything out there...
As I see it, its a butt welded extension with a brace on the outside (the diamond shaped plate). Am I correct?

[rg97]

Forgot one thing, is it MIG or TIG? (if you know)

[Mickey Dunlap]

Mickey I agree 100% with you, but that apparently isnt good enough for everyone else... I was going to butt weld it together but the other members are trying to convince me otherwise.
Heck, if you can use it on your race bike, I would bet that that its as strong as anything out there...
As I see it, its a butt welded extension with a brace on the outside (the diamond shaped plate). Am I correct?

Yes it was Tig welded and just the triangle plate.

It was fully tested!:lol:

180963180964

[oldskool83]

over engineering....if you want to halfass it it would of been done by now with a tubeular block extending about 3/4" past the cut on either side drilled pinned and welded in place. Done deal, thats the half ass route...the nice clean was well you know that route also.

[rg97]

No matter what way i would have done it, it still would not be finished. I've had no time whatsoever to do any work on it, just getting it blasted too about a week to find the time. Im not going to half rear end it, thats the point of asking the community for their opinions. where did I say that I was going to? I want it to be functional and look nice. You accomplished that by getting a custom made one. Unfortunately ATM, I dont have the budget for that. The way mickey's bike was done was my very first thought on doing the swingarm, but everyone and their mothers jumped on me about what a horrible idea that is. You ask mickey how many times it snapped in half after extending, then try and bring your point again

[El Camexican]

The way mickey's bike was done was my very first thought on doing the swingarm, but everyone and their mothers jumped on me about what a horrible idea that is. You ask mickey how many times it snapped in half after extending, then try and bring your point again

Don't let me stop you:beer

[86T3]

Ive been thinking about this and i think i have the best idea for you. Take your swingarm and cut it halfway between the shock mount and the.carrier. Then get another swingarm and cut it right at the shock mount. Take the front half of the first swingarm and trim back half of the second one so you're at your desired length, and weld them together however you want. This way you'll only have one weld and you wont have to worry about matching the material.

[WIkid500]

In your initial post I was going to mention fish plating it. I didn't have time to draw it up for you but, Mickey's picture is exactly what I would do. Butt weld your extension piece in, grind the welds flat and weld on the diamond shaped plate. It will be fine. Anyone who breaks that has bigger issues on their hands. TIG weld it if you can. If you were closer I'd TIG it together for you if needed. Looks like a fun project.

[6speedthumper]

I would just make a jig, cut out all the stock square tube, and weld in all new round DOM.

[Poco Loco]

Im superised nobody mentioned to do your cuts at an angle. A 30degree angle is stronger than a 90. If theres room for a 45 its even stronger. Definaty plug weld or roseett weld if you plate it. If you have access to tig, thats the best route to go. Dont accellarate any cooling process. Good luck, hope it comes out good.

[KASEY]

the biggest issue I see that has not been mentioned,,, the rails on the swinger are not parallel that will be a problem you will have to figure out when you get to it,, and as far as 90 degree cuts they will be more than strong enough,, if welded properly,, I have several stock extended swingers that are still holding just fine..

[rg97]

the biggest issue I see that has not been mentioned,,, the rails on the swinger are not parallel that will be a problem you will have to figure out when you get to it,, and as far as 90 degree cuts they will be more than strong enough,, if welded properly,, I have several stock extended swingers that are still holding just fine..

Already taken into account. Each rail moves inward at 2.8 degrees, which the extension tubing will be cut at, or leave one side with no angle cut and cut the other side 5.6 degrees

[Poco Loco]

Ive seen you ride Kasey, You dont jump. Your stuff will last forever. I go for the max when I fab. Just me though. Sometimes when I look down, its pretty far. 90 degrees should be fine on a 200x

[Mickey Dunlap]

************************

[KASEY]

Ive seen you ride Kasey, You dont jump. Your stuff will last forever. I go for the max when I fab. Just me though. Sometimes when I look down, its pretty far. 90 degrees should be fine on a 200x

yeah your probably RIGHT !!!

http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n592/KASEYII/jump250r.jpg

http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n592/KASEYII/gw4.jpg

http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n592/KASEYII/DAD350R.jpg

[Louis Mielke]

Yeah, Kasey, you don't jump at all. :lol:

[rg97]

Is it just me, or do KASEY's pics look photoshopped?:shiftyeyes: Because I know that he never jumps... How did you do it kasey? Stunt double? Photoshop? Spill the beans man


Anyways, did some more drawings and now I think I have the final product.
BTW, the extensions are cut, one is 1.998", the other is 2.001", so I'm safe there.
Following mickey's lead, this is what I came up with. The colors are just to signify different parts.
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/whole_zpsd671230a.png (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/whole_zpsd671230a.png.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/whole2_zpsa1174615.png (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/whole2_zpsa1174615.png.html)

[Poco Loco]

I told minty today at work that when I get home I will be able to see Kaseys pics of him jumping. I totally called it. Well i guess if the tires leave the ground, its a jump. I guess Im a little rougher on stuff.

[RapidRick]

I will guarantee Kasey jumps that high and frequently and those are not, repeat not, photoshopped.

[RapidRick]

Ive been thinking about this and i think i have the best idea for you. Take your swingarm and cut it halfway between the shock mount and the.carrier. Then get another swingarm and cut it right at the shock mount. Take the front half of the first swingarm and trim back half of the second one so you're at your desired length, and weld them together however you want. This way you'll only have one weld and you wont have to worry about matching the material.

Just finished a 350X swingarm this way and IMHO think it's the cleanest.

[rg97]

I will guarantee Kasey jumps that high and frequently and those are not, repeat not, photoshopped.
I'm just busting the guy, I hope ya know that

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by 86T3 http://www.3wheelerworld.com/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php?p=1266453#post1266453)Ive been thinking about this and i think i have the best idea for you. Take your swingarm and cut it halfway between the shock mount and the.carrier. Then get another swingarm and cut it right at the shock mount. Take the front half of the first swingarm and trim back half of the second one so you're at your desired length, and weld them together however you want. This way you'll only have one weld and you wont have to worry about matching the material.



Just finished a 350X swingarm this way and IMHO think it's the cleanest.

It may be clean, but that requires finding two 84 swingarms that are in pretty nice shape, which just in themselves would cost about $100 with shipping
I have just under $50 in this project. In reality, the Only thing I've paid for is the swingarm and the MIG wire.

[Poco Loco]

I will guarantee Kasey jumps that high and frequently and those are not, repeat not, photoshopped.

Really? He actually jumps that high? He's a friggin stunt man. How the heck would you do such a feat? I totally thought it was all a photoshop hoax. Thanks Rapid Rick for coming clean on this. Lets not run this thread off track now. This is a swing arm topic.

Why would you extend a 200x swingarm? Does this trike have a wheelie problem?

[KASEY]

instead of a diamond shape I would go all the way back and round it to match the rear housing, I will get you a pict of the last one I did

[rg97]

Why would you extend a 200x swingarm? Does this trike have a wheelie problem?
No unintentional wheelies (going on a 22+ HP 212X) and the rear end will slide around a bit easier as well, which I actually like. I would have gotten a durablue or a new one, but they're outrageous in price, I.E.:
http://shop.3wheelerworld.com/productdetails.php?productid=9
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-200X-83-85-2-Durablue-Swingarm-Westcoast-Calfab-Aftermarket-Swing-/161129896985?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2584171c19&nma=true&si=KToK%252FrUbjZ1v2vpZ2mr2tfAHOZI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


instead of a diamond shape I would go all the way back and round it to match the rear housing, I will get you a pict of the last one I did

Sounds good, I'm open to ideas as for a shape. all it is is a .DXF file sent to the water jet, to be cut out of 11ga (.125") steel

[barnett468]

yes the plate on the outside is much stronger. i did not suggest it because i thought you wanted to maintain a clean look on the outside.

if you only use 1 plate per arm you might consider putting it on the inside where the ends will be less noticeable.

extending it to the carrier won't give you a substantial increase in strength but it will help a little but mainly it will look cleaner and it is important to look good and a good suggestion by kasey imo.

irregardless of who rode what where, i guarantee you that adding the cross brace i suggested will substantially reduce twisting and it will not look cheesy. just cut a piece a rectangular piece and tape it in there and see if it looks bad to you.

I added one to a stock 84 Tecate arm when I ran the R and D department for Kawasaki and did a back to back test and could tell the difference. I modified that arm a little further and ran it on my Kawi spoonsored race bile. Jimmy and I also swapped bikes at Saddleback when we were there testing and he said it was good. I figured if it was good enough for the 250 National champ it was good enough for me and for production. I then incorporated it into the design for the production arms on the 86 and 87 models [as you can see in the photo in the link below] along with the bigger fork tubes etc.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/ATV/1986/KXT250-B1+Tecate/SWING+ARM/parts.html

[Ol Deuce]

These are the type of mods I like to see!:Bounce Ol Deuce

[M.Pargiello]

Why are people worrying about YOUR swing arm? I extended mine and I'll be damned if I justify it to anyone but myself.

Trike looks great, keep at it!

[rg97]

over engineering....if you want to halfass it it would of been done by now with a tubeular block extending about 3/4" past the cut on either side drilled pinned and welded in place. Done deal, thats the half ass route...the nice clean was well you know that route also.
I would rather have it over engineered than under under engineered. Hopefully will be heading into the shop today to do the cutting of the swingarm and maybe the welding if I have enough time.

[Dirtcrasher]

Why are people worrying about YOUR swing arm? I extended mine and I'll be damned if I justify it to anyone but myself.

Trike looks great, keep at it!

If he didn't want an opinion, he wouldn't have asked. Many of us have tried and failed but learned throughout the years how so build something parallel as well as strong. In 1998 I only had an arc welder and made a shock mount to use a 200X shock on there. It snapped the upper tube. So, IMHO, asking others for their input is a very good thing.......

Screw up for a few years, then get the right equipment and try to understand where the load ultimately goes. Ever see me snap a 350X frame I built? Me either....

If anyone wants to just fly away with an idea, I hear BC Redneck has some tempered bed railings for sale :D

[rg97]

Now we're getting somewhere! :p
Amid a truck break-down (idler pulley bearing went bad, belt started rubbing, belt heated & broke) and bad weather (first REAL snow of the year! :cool:)

We were able to cut the swingarm, make the fish plates, and then TIG the main part together. The fish plates (apparently I didnt take any pics of them :wondering) are fine, they look close like mickey's ones, which we used as a pattern (imitation is the best form of flattery! :p), like a diamond shape.
Got home, and started TIG welding. Got all the way around both sides, and we checked on the angle when we were done, everything is with .4-.5 of a degree (probably closer than honda made them :lol:). The last pics are as it sits right now, I ran out of time to do the fish plates, hopefully will be done next week. We are going to MIG the plates on. I'm glad that it's finally coming together! Now, onto those intakes....

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131123_1400001_zps360974f4.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131123_1400001_zps360974f4.jpg.html)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131123_140038_-_Copy1_zpsd1551b4d.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131123_140038_-_Copy1_zpsd1551b4d.jpg.html)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131123_1403511_zps7ea1eef7.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131123_1403511_zps7ea1eef7.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01743_zps3c5c5d62.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01743_zps3c5c5d62.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01747_zpsbcfd0aad.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01747_zpsbcfd0aad.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01746_zps7bc67bc1.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01746_zps7bc67bc1.jpg.html)

[KASEY]

Ummmmmmmmm,,,,,,

[rg97]

I didnt post this to hear you gripe about how I didnt do it your way :wondering
shens

[rg97]

In your initial post I was going to mention fish plating it. I didn't have time to draw it up for you but, Mickey's picture is exactly what I would do. Butt weld your extension piece in, grind the welds flat and weld on the diamond shaped plate. It will be fine. Anyone who breaks that has bigger issues on their hands. TIG weld it if you can. If you were closer I'd TIG it together for you if needed. Looks like a fun project.

Exactly what I did

[rg97]

Decided to take some pics of the fish plate anyways
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01748_zps2a976e74.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01748_zps2a976e74.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01750_zpsf64d5262.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01750_zpsf64d5262.jpg.html)

[RapidRick]

Nice.......

[fallguy666]

Please let us know how this holds up.I want to do the same thing on my 350x

[Dirtcrasher]

The Tig welds look nice!

I totaled my 94 toyota pickup, DEEPA saw me replace a huge hunk of the frame. The frame was a box frame.

So, one side got i simple verticle cut; The other side I made 2 cuts, one 6"s to the left and one 6"s to the right.

In other words, there was no single line that could crack, all the cuts and welds were staggered and prior to welding on the 12" inside channel in, I placed inside the frame rectangle an 8" piece of 3/16ths plate to the single vertical or outside cut side and mig welded it in; again, offsetting any other cuts or welds. This was a truck so I couldn't play around with all that flex and weight. But, when done, I felt I made the best possible repair I could.

Fixed the rotting bed too:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/101_1022.jpg (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/Dirtcrasher/media/101_1022.jpg.html)

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/101_1057.jpg (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/Dirtcrasher/media/101_1057.jpg.html)

Of course I have no pics of the damn framework, the hardest part :lol:

:D

Alright, back work on that swinger!!

[yaegerb]

Very clean welds rheese. That should hold up just fine and looks great by quality standards. I am glad you put that swinger to good use!

[duck4twenty]

whats the stock lenght on 84 200x just tring to figure out how long my swingarm is extended its 22in long

[rg97]

22 in is a plus 6, stock is about 16 inches center to center, or about 17.5 end to end.

[duck4twenty]

thanks man
22 in is a plus 6, stock is about 16 inches center to center, or about 17.5 end to end. heres a pic of it came with the bike when i got it181244

[rg97]

I'm surprised theres no gussets or anything for a plus 6, and the steel tube looks smaller than stock. That shock is a wicked angle, I cant imagine that it would last forever like that. Not to mention that a +6 is a pain to drive through the trails

[duck4twenty]

heres some more pics
181255181256181257181258

[oscarmayer]

hahaha mickey you got "sparks on your fanny, and yea after that landing i bet you saw "sparks" hehe :)

[rg97]

OK now we're getting a bit off topic.
Anyways, small update, we cut the fish plates 1/2" down (.25 on each side) on the long side so that the plates go all the way out to the top of the swinger tube.
will be done soon, just got at least 7" of snow and have a broken truck, so this swinger isnt really the first priority.

[DasUberKraut]

Here's my 85 X swinger. It was extended before I acquired the machine.
I'm only posting this so people can see how sloppy of a job can be done.
I have an 84 stock length swinger I will probably swap out for.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w33/Duggalo/IMG_20130621_105042_033_zps9ef92c94.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w33/Duggalo/IMG_20130621_105050_853_zpsa229d24d.jpg

[rg97]

The problem with mine is that the sprocket shifted about 1/4", and thats too far to run, the chain wont last long like that. Probably going to have to re cut it and weld again :cry:

[Dirtcrasher]

Maybe we could use pressure treated lumber and pointy screws (for the water)??; Should be easy to make...

[rg97]

What you do is is stain two new bed rails, then tap four holes with a 10mm tap, then put a SAE bolt in it. I think that instead of bearings we can run just grease in the carrier.

[Mickey Dunlap]

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[Mickey Dunlap]

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[KASEY]

The problem with mine is that the sprocket shifted about 1/4", and thats too far to run, the chain wont last long like that. Probably going to have to re cut it and weld again :cry:that's why you should jig it up before any welding,,, so you get it straight and square..

[barnett468]

that's why you should jig it up before any welding,,, so you get it straight and square..I guess he missed my comment below from post 15 on the first page.


you should also bolt it to a jig.

[barnett468]

Here's my 85 X swinger. It was extended before I acquired the machine.
I'm only posting this so people can see how sloppy of a job can be done.
I have an 84 stock length swinger I will probably swap out for.This swing arm photo from post 66 has the cross brace I suggested adding in post 16.


you can also reduce swing arm flex considerably by simply adding either another rectangular bar half way between the existing one and the rear carrier or making a rectangular cross brace but that might look tacky and that would be bad.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w33/Duggalo/IMG_20130621_105042_033_zps9ef92c94.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w33/Duggalo/IMG_20130621_105050_853_zpsa229d24d.jpg[/QUOTE]

[86T3]

The problem with mine is that the sprocket shifted about 1/4", and thats too far to run, the chain wont last long like that. Probably going to have to re cut it and weld again :cry:

Instead of cutting it apart again why dont you try to massage it a bit to get it straight.

And for everyone else, give the guy a break. He asked for advice and got 20 different ways to do this. He picked how he wanted and did it. Im sure when he posted that it warped he wasnt looking for a bunch of i told you so's. The man who makes no mistakes makes nothing

[Poco Loco]

Rg97 learned a lot on this project...Schools in session.

[KASEY]

I don't think anyone is saying I told you so,,, building customs takes years of experience and when you ask expect to get several opinions,, now back to the matter at hand, from the picts I see you have the tools ,, so fab up a little jig to get that thing square and straight before welding .. whenever you hit something metal with any kind of heat its going to try to move/warp,, that's one reason I sleeve any extensions you can get it straight and square before welding and since it has more steel mass it takes a lot more heat to warp it ,,,

[Scootertrash]

The man who makes no mistakes makes nothing

And the only stupid questions are the one that don't get asked ;)

[Poco Loco]

Now Kasey, nobody said I told you so but you. I learn new things every day. Asking questions is a good way to learn. Schools always in session. I hate tearing out work Ive messed up. I done it plenty of times too.

[El Camexican]

We learn from our mistakes and I for one have a VERY expensive education:lol:

[Dirtcrasher]

Post #63 picture 2, anyone seeing the issues aside from (it works) that I see there??

[barnett468]

Post #63 picture 2, anyone seeing the issues aside from (it works) that I see there??ok, as you know i am a kawi guy so i don't know or forgot what i did know about how the honda shock set up works so without cheating by looking up a photo of one, heres what i see.

1. the shock is mounted to the swing arm and might need to be mounted to a link.

2. my screen is small but it looks like the holes in the shock are larger than the bolt going through it.

3. i hAVE NEVER SEEN AN ALUMINUM BODY SHOCK WITH NO BUSHINGS IN THE EYES LIKE THIS ONE SO SOMETHING MAY BE MISSING.

4. The bolt needs a sleeve to tighten down on the way it is set up but there is none.

5. looks like some nice non factory huge od washers used as spacers.

6. THERE IS NO CROSS BRACE IN THE ARM LIKE THE ONE in the photo in my last post which i also suggested be added to the ops here, so you can literally bolt the bike down on a box per say, then stand on one wheel and jump up and down on it and actually see the swing arm flex.

[Dirtcrasher]

Yep.

The holes almost seem filed out and there is no linkage or spacer to prevent the ears on the swingarm from crushing the aluminum ears of the shock.

Yes, a cross brace would be nice.....