checking and setting carb float hight????

[SiiCHo]

ok, so i know there is about 12983752934857293845712834 threads on tuning carbs, but with a search i had little luck on the topic i need help on. i just put a brand new PJ34 in my 84 250r and when i opened the tank valve, fuel started to drip from the bowl overflow line. i opened the bowl and bent the float tang to alleviate this issue, but i want to make sure i didnt bend it too much. ive read how to do the float check, but it doesnt make sense to me. i get the concept, but where do i attach the clear line? if i put it on the overflow stem, it wont do anything (unless its overfilling), and how would i attach it to the 17mm drain bolt hole? those are the only 2 things on the bowl... help please???

[barnett468]

Hello


If you saw that test on the site it was posted by either me or Tri Again. Unfortunately it only works on carbs that have a float bowl drain screw. If yours doesn't you can drill and tap your drain plug with a temporary fitting then put a screw and gasket in it after wards.

[SiiCHo]

I figured it out. I had to make a plastic piece to thread into the 17 mm hole, then attached the line to that. It worked, im even with the carb body, i got lucky on the first try.

[yamaha225dr]

You have to attach the clear hose to the overflow stem on the carburetor bowl. The problem with that is every Keihin carburetor I have seen does not have a drain screw on the bottom of the carburetor. With carburetors like that what I found to work best is using a piece of clean hose, attach it to the fuel inlet on the carb and with the bowl off, slowly blow into the hose with your mouth and push up on the float until you can't blow through the line anymore. Then check to see where the float is positioned. You want the float to sit level when the needle valve is seated. Your float has a seam running horizontally down the side, I used that seam and adjusted the float height until it was running parallel with the bottom of my carburetor.

[SiiCHo]

I guess that would have worked too, but its good, now on to jetting.... She wont idle.

[fastatc70]

You have to attach the clear hose to the overflow stem on the carburetor bowl. The problem with that is every Keihin carburetor I have seen does not have a drain screw on the bottom of the carburetor. With carburetors like that what I found to work best is using a piece of clean hose, attach it to the fuel inlet on the carb and with the bowl off, slowly blow into the hose with your mouth and push up on the float until you can't blow through the line anymore. Then check to see where the float is positioned. You want the float to sit level when the needle valve is seated. Your float has a seam running horizontally down the side, I used that seam and adjusted the float height until it was running parallel with the bottom of my carburetor.

Putting your mouth to any fuel line is crazy and not recommend!!

Them right way is to find the measurement from your bowl seam to the float.
172573

Or the float has a casting seam and that seam will be parallel with the bowl seam. Note- where the float tang touches the needle there is a spring loaded button. The button and tang should be touching not depressing the button. That is why the pic is showing the carb with the outlet down. If the carb is upside down the weight if the float depresses the button giving the wrong measurement.

[SiiCHo]

Cool, thats good info! Thanks
Update
Stock jetting was
Pilot 55
Main 152
Needle clip top

Wouldnt idle, choke made it worse, lots of smoke when holding the throttle to make it idle. Reved but with hesitation at the top end
Dropping the pilot to 50
Dropping the main to 150
Leaving the clip at the top

Its worth noting that im at about 5200 ft above sea level in my garage and its about 95 degrees outside. Ill update after its back together.

[DasUberKraut]

Is there a link for this method?

I'm tired of dumping gas trying to figure this out.

[barnett468]

Hello siCHo




I figured it out. I had to make a plastic piece to thread into the 17 mm hole, then attached the line to that. It worked, im even with the carb body, i got lucky on the first try.


Very cool, can you post a photo of the plug you made so others [and I] can see what you did as others might want to do the same? You can alson hack o few off and advertise them for $6.00 a piece, lol.

[SiiCHo]

Well, she almost idles, just a little too low to self sustain. Gonna drop the pilot 1 more size. She revs like a beast, no issues there, at least not in neutral, we'll see what happens under load

[SiiCHo]

Hello siCHo






Very cool, can you post a photo of the plug you made so others [and I] can see what you did as others might want to do the same? You can alson hack o few off and advertise them for $6.00 a piece, lol.


Yeah, later i will, its crude, but did the job.

[SiiCHo]

Here some pics of the adapter i made. The kit came from pepboys, just a generic tube adapter kit. I had to sand and heat the end to thread it to the bowl. Leaked like all hell, but did the job

172574172575

[barnett468]

Hello



If you have sustained tempos of 90 degrees you need to run a 9 plug not an 8.

Ride bike around through all rpm ranges with a new white plug for 30 minutes then do a do a plug chop in 5 th gear [not 6th] while going up a mild grade if possible.

Can you post photo of plug?

Do not use a flash!

You will probably end up around 45 pilot and 145 main with a 9 plug.

If your engine is stock or modified and compression reads less than 170 on a good compression gauge you should mill your head and correct squish band until it is a between 160 and 170 for 93 - 100 octane gas if you plan on continuing to ride it at that elevation. It will ping it's brains out on pump gas if you ride it at sea level, lol.

The compression at sea level should be 170, you loose 5 psi for every 1000 ft in elevation which means if your bike is stock your compression will only be 145 at best and is more likely 130.

[yamaha225dr]

[QUOTE=fastatc70;1238279]Putting your mouth to any fuel line is crazy and not recommend!!

Them right way is to find the measurement from your bowl seam to the float.
172573

Or the float has a casting seam and that seam will be parallel with the bowl seam. Note- where the float tang touches the needle there is a spring loaded button. The button and tang should be touching not depressing the button. That is why the pic is showing the carb with the outlet down. If the carb is upside down the weight if the float depresses the button giving the wrong measurement.[/QUOTE


Next time before posting a reply how about putting your comprehension skills to work! I clearly said a "Clean piece of hose".

[SiiCHo]

The engine has about 6 hrs on it since rebuild, im running a 9 plug, 91 pump gas. It kind of idles on the 48 pilot, im just having trouble getting it stable. Its fine at about 1600 rpm, but when i drop it to spec (1300) it will hang for a second then fall and die. I may have to order a few more jets, 48 is the smallest i have on hand. Ive heard all you guys say to set the air screw 2.5 turns out, but my manual says 1 3/8... Im finding that it needs to be about 1.75 to 2, and the idle set is almost all the way out. Any input?

[SiiCHo]

as far as doing a plug chop goes, its going to have to wait until i get it idling right. i live in a pretty residential area, and i cant just rip down the streets, i have to haul it to the dunes to be able to ride it. either way, im done for the day. i think i had the cops called on me once today for noise, i imagine. i had shut it down and was standing out front of the garage smoking a cigarette, they rolled by and slowed down in front of my house with their windows down. right after passing my place, the windows went up and they sped up. nothing came of it, but i dont need that.

[barnett468]

Hello


I would do the following, others would not

Set x screw to 1 3/4 for now.

If it starts easily with 0 choke when engine is cold and it is 75 degrees outside or more the pilot is too large, install next size smaller and try again.

If it requires full choke with cold eng and 75 or more degrees then pilot is too small, go up 1 size and try again.

If it burbles upon acceleration when opening throttle only 1/4 way from low speed then pilot is too large, go down 1 and try again.

If it simply hesitates with no burbling then it is lean, install 1 size larger pilot.

Set mix screw to best idle when done.

[barnett468]

Post correction


X SHOULD BE MIX.


I have no edit button.

[SiiCHo]

everyone talks about 0 choke or full choke, am i missing something? all the keihin carbs ive ever worked on, the choke is on or off, no in-between

[barnett468]

Hello


Most may be this way now, it wasn't always.

You can only do a fully closed or fully open test on ytour particular carb then, but the riding test will help confirm the choke test. The riding test is most important.

[barnett468]

Hello DasUberKraut



Vie ghets!




Is there a link for this method? I'm tired of dumping gas trying to figure this out.

Is this what you are looking for?


GAS LEVEL TEST – If your gas level is low in the float bowl then your carb will be lean. Install clear plastic tube on bowl drain, hold open end of tube level with top of carb and open bowl drain valve. The gas will flow into the tube. It should be from level to 3/16" below the bottom of the carb body where it meets the bowl. If it is incorrect then adjust float accordingly.

[SiiCHo]

Ok, so now that ive sat down and thought about it, i think i may have to go back up a size or 2 on my pilot. With the 48 i have to have the idle adjust almost all the way out. On the carb i have, the idle adjust just moves the choke, so running it all the way out is the same as having the choke pulled all the way up. Once its screwed out, you cant even pull the choke. If im thinking right, this means it is too lean, and needs more gas. Also i have almost no smoke out the exhaust. With the old 30 mm it billowed blue smoke, and it had a 50 pilot. Ill admit that on the first go, with the stock jetting, i forgot to set the mix screw, and that may be why it wouldnt idle. I think im just going to start from scratch tomorrow, and put it back to stock and try again.

[barnett468]

Hello


Blue smoke is excessive oil, not a rich condition, it can come from a bad crank seal on the clutch side or a rich oil fuel mix.


I don't know about a fuel mix screw moving the choke.

[DasUberKraut]

Hello DasUberKraut



Vie ghets!




Is there a link for this method? I'm tired of dumping gas trying to figure this out.

Is this what you are looking for?


GAS LEVEL TEST – If your gas level is low in the float bowl then your carb will be lean. Install clear plastic tube on bowl drain, hold open end of tube level with top of carb and open bowl drain valve. The gas will flow into the tube. It should be from level to 3/16" below the bottom of the carb body where it meets the bowl. If it is incorrect then adjust float accordingly.

Thanks barnett. I no longer speak German. Back in high school I was almost fluent. But I am ok. To answer your question.

Thanks for the description of the test. Hopefully someone would want to make a quick vid of this being done... I can picture it in my head to a degree. But it's not making sense.

[SiiCHo]

Not the mix screw, the idle adjust...

Here is the idle adjust/choke, notice the markings
172593

And here is the mix screw
172594

And as far as i know, on a 2 stroke, excessive blue smoke is rich. Im running it 32:1. It doesnt lose oil, so its safe to say im not leaking oil into the crank case. And if it were, the reed cage would be covered in oil, which its not.

[barnett468]

Hello siCHo




Not the mix screw, the idle adjust...Here is the idle adjust/choke, notice the markings

Thanks, but I know which is which. You are supposed to turn the mix screw out 1 3/4 out from 0 NOT the throttle stop screw. This is one of the reasons why you can't get it to work.





And as far as i know, on a 2 stroke, excessive blue smoke is rich.

Sorry, but in my years of doing this including with factory teams and being head of Kawi R and D and studying fuels for years, that is absolutely wrong. Others opinions will vary. Go throw a match in a shot glass full of gas and then come back and tell me what color the smoke was. If you want to jet it by the amount of blue exhaust smoke that comes out of your tail pipe then I can no longer help you, sorry.





Im running it 32:1. It doesnt lose oil, so its safe to say im not leaking oil into the crank case. And if it were, the reed cage would be covered in oil, which its not.

It could have just started one never knows unless they pressure test for it. It would take a while for it to noticeably drop the oil level.

What oil is it exactly?

[barnett468]

Thanks barnett. I no longer speak German. Back in high school I was almost fluent. But I am ok. To answer your question.

Thanks for the description of the test. Hopefully someone would want to make a quick vid of this being done... I can picture it in my head to a degree. But it's not making sense.


You're welcome, if you follow the easy to follow instructions it will make sense, lol. It is better to see it done though.

[SiiCHo]

Hello siCHo

Thanks, but I know which is which. You are supposed to turn the mix screw out 1 3/4 out from 0 NOT the throttle stop screw. This is one of the reasons why you can't get it to work.

What oil is it exactly?

Im aware which screw to turn. In your previous post, you said you didnt know about a mix screw affecting the choke. You may have mis-spoken, i posted pics for clarification. Like you, this isnt my first rodeo working on something. I grew up working on small engines, atvs, snowmobile, dirtbikes, cars, and trucks. Ive spent the last 8 years working on helicopters. I currently work as a mechanic on the v22 osprey, one of the most advanced aircraft in the world. I appreciate advice, but every 2 stoke i have ever seen blows blue smoke. Yes if you light mixed fuel in a shot glass it will smoke black. When a 4 stroke is rich, it will blow black smoke, as will a diesel. My weed trimmer blows blue smoke and i mix it 60:1, this tells me its not excessive oil.

Right now im running 91 pump gas mixed with lucas 2stroke oil. When i bought the trike, the guy gave me a half bottle of the stuff. I have a bottle of maxima castor 2 stroke oil i will be switching to once the lucas is gone. I have never had issues with a carb like im having with this one. Like a said earlier, im just going to start from scratch tomorrow and try again. Ive gone through the factory service manual, and the clymer manual i have, and have followed them to the letter. I think ijumped the gun on dropping jet sizes.

[fastatc70]

Im aware which screw to turn. In your previous post, you said you didnt know about a mix screw affecting the choke. You may have mis-spoken, i posted pics for clarification. Like you, this isnt my first rodeo working on something. I grew up working on small engines, atvs, snowmobile, dirtbikes, cars, and trucks. Ive spent the last 8 years working on helicopters. I currently work as a mechanic on the v22 osprey, one of the most advanced aircraft in the world. I appreciate advice, but every 2 stoke i have ever seen blows blue smoke. Yes if you light mixed fuel in a shot glass it will smoke black. When a 4 stroke is rich, it will blow black smoke, as will a diesel. My weed trimmer blows blue smoke and i mix it 60:1, this tells me its not excessive oil.

Right now im running 91 pump gas mixed with lucas 2stroke oil. When i bought the trike, the guy gave me a half bottle of the stuff. I have a bottle of maxima castor 2 stroke oil i will be switching to once the lucas is gone. I have never had issues with a carb like im having with this one. Like a said earlier, im just going to start from scratch tomorrow and try again. Ive gone through the factory service manual, and the clymer manual i have, and have followed them to the letter. I think ijumped the gun on dropping jet sizes.

If you are having idle problems I would start with a leak down test. If you have a clymer manual they explain how to do the test. An air leak will cause all sorts of problems that look like carb problem and a funny idle.

[SiiCHo]

Ok so i got it to idle, pilot 50, main 152, and the clip at the top. Im about 2 turns out on the mix screw, but she idles at 1300 on the money. However, i do have a blown head gasket. With all the messing with it, some spooge started to form where the head meets the jug, with a flashlight and the engine running, i can see tiny bubbles coming from the head gasket. Luckily i have a spare gasket. I just need to get some copper spray. Anybody know if there is clearance to pull the head with the engine in the frame, or will i have to pull the whole motor? It looks like it may be close. For the motor only having 6 hours on it, it tells me it wasnt put together right. No surprise there, the whole trike was ghetto rigged when i bought it, but it ran well, until the stock carb broke.

[DasUberKraut]

So somewhere in all this fun... I got myself confused.

The fuel inlet is the one with a fitting sticking out the top of the carb body and the vent doesn't have a fitting and sticks straight off the side of the body?

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w33/Duggalo/IMG_20130707_131349_550_zps5ef3a20d.jpg

I mixed myself up now nothing looks right.

[yamaha225dr]

The fitting with the black hose attached is the fuel inlet and the other one is a vent. Make sure you run a hose off those vents to keep trash from clogging them.

[barnett468]

Hello DasUberKraut




So somewhere in all this fun... I got myself confused. The fuel inlet is the one with a fitting sticking out the top of the carb body and the vent doesn't have a fitting and sticks straight off the side of the body?

Yes, sir! Don't forget to put a clamp on it!

[tri again]

The fitting with the black hose attached is the fuel inlet and the other one is a vent. Make sure you run a hose off those vents to keep trash from clogging them.\]

Yeah, mini mud bees around here just LOVE small vacuum lines etc

[SiiCHo]

So i pulled the top end apart to replace the head seal, and this is what the inside of the head looks like.
172614
The piston and cylinder look fine, it must have been from a previous blow up. Either way, its not going back on, since i have 3 spares.

[DasUberKraut]

I'm all good on my end! Replaced my hoses and tried a different set of floats. I think the floats that were in it were twisted a bit and causing a malfunction. Took it for a spin in the woods behind the trailer where kids have good trails made. Laid into her pretty good and seems to be operating good. Idle may be a tad fast but that's about it.

Now I just need to rebuild the rear shock or get a stiffer one installed. I'm getting an occasional fender rub on bigger bumps. But I am fat in the ass, so it's to be expected.

[barnett468]

Hello siCHo




So i pulled the top end apart to replace the head seal, and this is what the inside of the head looks like.
172614
The piston and cylinder look fine, it must have been from a previous blow up. Either way, its not going back on, since i have 3 spares.

CYLINDER HEAD - It's best to look to see if your replacements have been milled to increase compression. Increased compression on a stock cylinder is reguired if you are at elevations above around 4000 ft. If you are at sea level increased comp on a stock engine will promote detonation i which case higher octane gas will be required.


HEAD SURFACE - I suggest you check head for warpage. You can do this by taking a piece of 600 grit wet/fry paper, lay it on a granite counter top. add water, clean head, color gasket surface with felt pen, put head in paper and using moderate pressure rotate it 3 times and inspect. If felt mark is 100% gone it is obviously flat if not continue sanding until it is.


HEAD GASKET - Original is best or Japanese replacement. Don't use sealer. They love to leak.



JETTING - Below is the instructions from the mfg of your carb in case you don't have it already.

2) Idle

Set idle speed to proper r.p.m, by adjusting the IDLE SPEED SCREW. Turn the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW or the AIR SCREW to for correct procedure, achieve highest speed and best response. The IDLE MIXTURE SCREW (FCR) controls fuel delivery to the idle port and the SCREW is located on the engine side of the carburetor slide. Turning the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW out will make idle and off-idle richer. Turning IDLE MIXTURE SCREW (CR, PWK, PJ, PE) controls the amount of air to the IDLE and SLOW CIRCUIT. This SCREW is located on the air cleaner side of the throttle slide and turning the SCREW out will lean the mixture and turning the SCREW in (clockwise) will richen the mixture.



3) Off Idle To 1/4 Throttle

The SLOW JET and SLOW AIR JET are most effective in this range. When you want a richer mixture in this range, use a larger SLOW JET or a smaller SLOW AIR JET. The opposite holds true for a leaner mixture.



http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/needles_tuning/jetting_your_carb.htm

[SiiCHo]

Hello siCHo





CYLINDER HEAD - It's best to look to see if your replacements have been milled to increase compression. Increased compression on a stock cylinder is reguired if you are at elevations above around 4000 ft. If you are at sea level increased comp on a stock engine will promote detonation i which case higher octane gas will be required.

i dont believe any of them are milled, granted i didnt measure them. the one i put on still had packing peanuts in the fins, and odds are it didnt come from some place at high elevation. i didnt buy it, it came in the mountain of spare parts that came with the trike. either way, its already back together and compression checked at 180psi



HEAD SURFACE - I suggest you check head for warpage. You can do this by taking a piece of 600 grit wet/fry paper, lay it on a granite counter top. add water, clean head, color gasket surface with felt pen, put head in paper and using moderate pressure rotate it 3 times and inspect. If felt mark is 100% gone it is obviously flat if not continue sanding until it is.

i dont have a granite countertop or any other "true" surface anywhere in the house to use. closest i have is my work bench,or the floor in the garage but i wouldnt trust those for the job



HEAD GASKET - Original is best or Japanese replacement. Don't use sealer. They love to leak.

i have a spare gasket kit, i used the copper disc and sprayed both sides with permatex copper gasket seal/adhesive



as far as jetting goes, im still stumped, its still acting exactly the same as before i replace the head gasket. (comp checked at 90 psi with the bad gasket btw) i have read that info you posted, it was straight from the service manual, right? either way, i know ive read it before. ive followed the service manual and the clymer manual to the letter (theyre identical) and still cant get it to idle right. it will fire right up (once warm) and rev fine, then if you try to let it idle, it will hang around 2100 rpm. if you let it set, on its own it will slowly start to fall down to the 1600-1700 range, which is still fast. if you bump the idle adjust one notch (not the mix) it falls to 1300ish (what its supposed to be) and will run there for about 10 to 20 seconds, then just sputters out and dies. if you fire it back up, without adjusting the idle screw and try messing with the mix screw, it only makes it worse, in either direction. im thinking the pilot is still too big, but its the smallest i have on hand. my trike budget is blown for this payday, so its going to have to wait about a week before i can get more jets. i have a 48 in the pilot, a 150 in the main, and the clip is at the top of the needle. i think its most likely going to need a 45, maybe a 42, but im going to order down to a 38, just to make sure im good. if i cant get it right with a smaller jet, im taking it to a shop....

edit to add: i started the jetting process with a brand new plug, when i pulled the head apart, i looked at it. it was half dark tan on one side, and half dry black on the other, its kinda odd for it to be half and half like that, isnt it?

[barnett468]

Hello siCHo





i dont believe any of them are milled, granted i didnt measure them. the one i put on still had packing peanuts in the fins, and odds are it didnt come from some place at high elevation. i didnt buy it, it came in the mountain of spare parts that came with the trike. either way,

When you have 3 to look at you can typically see a difference since they are not all likely to be milled.






its already back together and compression checked at 180psi

This is right at max for sea level, good for around 2000 -3000 feet. If you are at sea level or close to it listen carefully for detonation. Use higher octane if it pings. Don’t want it to grenade!






i dont have a granite countertop or any other "true" surface anywhere in the house to use. closest i have is my work bench,or the floor in the garage but i wouldnt trust those for the job

You can tape paper to window right next to window frame for strength or bathroom mirror and surface on there, done it dozens of times, lol. The glass will not break.







i have a spare gasket kit, i used the copper disc and sprayed both sides with permatex copper gasket seal/adhesive

The gskt mfg’s say not to and it’s best to install as is but it typically doesn’t cause problems and sometimes helps.






as far as jetting goes, im still stumped, its still acting exactly the same as before i replace the head gasket. (comp checked at 90 psi with the bad gasket btw) i have read that info you posted, it was straight from the service manual, right? either way, i know ive read it before. ive followed the service manual and the clymer manual to the letter (theyre identical) and still cant get it to idle right.

Yes it absolutely was, see the link I got it from. They are the dist for the carb and info is from mfg as I said. I did that for you so you wouldn’t question it.






it will fire right up (once warm) and rev fine, then if you try to let it idle, it will hang around 2100 rpm. if you let it set, on its own it will slowly start to fall down to the 1600-1700 range, which is still fast. if you bump the idle adjust one notch (not the mix) it falls to 1300ish (what its supposed to be) and will run there for about 10 to 20 seconds, then just sputters out and dies.

You’re not going to like this but it sounds like an air leak not a jetting problem to me. I know nothing about an osprey but this is not one of those, lol. A jetting problem typically will not cause an idle to hang that high an air leak almost always in my experience. Triple check to make sure throttle cable has free play and is not pinched. Do you have the stuff to do a leak down test with?







if you fire it back up, without adjusting the idle screw and try messing with the mix screw, it only makes it worse, in either direction. im thinking the pilot is still too big, . i have a 48 in the pilot, 150 in the main, and the clip is at the top of the needle.

How far out are you starting with the mix screw?

If screw is around 1 ½ then this suggests the pilot is just right. One way makes it too lean so it dies, the other way floods it so it dies.

If in fact the pilot is correct than you most likely have an air leak at intake or seal as mentioned. Seal leak could be small and on either side, most likely stator side. I know, eng is rblt, seals may be defective etc.







edit to add: i started the jetting process with a brand new plug, when i pulled the head apart, i looked at it. it was half dark tan on one side, and half dry black on the other, its kinda odd for it to be half and half like that, isnt it?

It might be that the hammered head surface caused an unusual bur pattern although you might notice a very small difference even when conditions are perfect.

The plug says it’s too rich but it would be with only 90 psi static compression. Try new plug.

[SiiCHo]

No, i dont have a leak down tester. How exactly would leak down testing a 2 stroke work? At tdc all you can really test is your rings and head gasket, and once you bring it down, and the exhaust port is uncovered, all the air will just run right out the exhaust, wouldnt it? (I just looked at a spare jug i have to make sure im not just being dumb) the exhaust port is higher than the intake ports, so it is uncovered first. Maybe im overthinking it, but i dont see how you could check the case...

[SiiCHo]

The reason i think its still too rich is that the mix screw is almost 3 turns out, and the idle adjust (which on my carb just slightly opens or closes the choke circuit with each notch) is about 1/4 from full choke. These seem to be working against each other, but thats the only place i can get it to even somewhat idle. I dont really think its an air leak, since it ran fine with the old 30mm PE carb. I had no issues until that carb broke, and it hasnt been ridden since. I may put that carb back in, just to see if it still has issues. I dont really want to ride it with the repair i made to that carb, but it still idled fine the last i started it (about a week ago)

[barnett468]

Check out this 3 min video, If there is a leak and it is not on outside then remove flywheel and clucyh cover and spray soapy water there.

LEAK DOWN TEST

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdq7NRcUIp8

[SiiCHo]

Ok cool, i figured there had to be a way to do it, i wasnt taking into consideration plugging the intake and exhaust. That makes sense to me now. Just looked up a 2 stroke tester, and damn... $200-$250.

[barnett468]

Hello siCHo




The reason i think its still too rich is that the mix screw is almost 3 turns out, and the idle adjust (which on my carb just slightly opens or closes the choke circuit with each notch) is about 1/4 from full choke.
Your idle mix screw is partially causing it to be rich. Out is rich in is lean.

Their bizarre idle adjust screw is not helping.

Do you know if the idle adjust screw by the choke moves the slide up and down?

If you turn it all the way down can you give it a few turns or clicks before it start moving the choke up?





I dont really think its an air leak, since it ran fine with the old 30mm PE carb. I had no issues until that carb broke, and it hasnt been ridden since.

Ok, probably not then as long as it was on after the eng build.





I dont really want to ride it with the repair i made to that carb, but it still idled fine the last i started it (about a week ago)

It’s a pain, but you might just test again with old carb.

[barnett468]

Ok cool, i figured there had to be a way to do it, i wasnt taking into consideration plugging the intake and exhaust. That makes sense to me now. Just looked up a 2 stroke tester, and damn... $200-$250.

No, no, no, bogus. That's good beer money you'd be wastin, lol. You can figure it out. expansion plug in ex and round rubber plug in intake with hole and threaded tube, 2 nuts, 2 flat washers etc, jb weld and smooth to make smooth surface for hose so it won't leak, apply pinch type hose clamp, silicone both sides and buy cheap 15.00 mity mite pressure gauge from pep boys.

[barnett468]

Hey, how about a nice round slide holley, lol.

[SiiCHo]

Your idle mix screw is partially causing it to be rich. Out is rich in is lean.

maybe i have it backwards, but i thought if the screw was on the air box side of the carb (which it is), out was lean, in was rich....




Their bizarre idle adjust screw is not helping.

Do you know if the idle adjust screw by the choke moves the slide up and down?

If you turn it all the way down can you give it a few turns or clicks before it start moving the choke up?



reference the earlier picture, there is no screw for the idle adjust. it doesnt move the slide at all. the pull knob for the choke is knurled, and rotates, this threads the whole choke handle in and out, the same as just pulling it would... i bought this carb because i was told it would be easy to tune, boy am i kicking myself in the ass now. hahaha







Ok, probably not then as long as it was on after the eng build.
It’s a pain, but you might just test again with old carb.

it was on after the rebuild, i rode it about 3 hours on the old carb with no problems, until the tang that keeps the slide from rotating snapped. this let the slide rotate and hang up on the idle set screw, making it stick at about 1/2 throttle.

[SiiCHo]

No, no, no, bogus. That's good beer money you'd be wastin, lol. You can figure it out. expansion plug in ex and round rubber plug in intake with hole and threaded tube, 2 nuts, 2 flat washers etc, jb weld and smooth to make smooth surface for hose so it won't leak, apply pinch type hose clamp, silicone both sides and buy cheap 15.00 mity mite pressure gauge from pep boys.

not a bad idea... ill have to see what i can piece together...that price is for a whole kit, various size plugs and all

[barnett468]

not a bad idea... ill have to see what i can piece together...that price is for a whole kit, various size plugs and all

It's a cheap idea, lol. The expansion plugs come from the auto store [expandable freeze plugs]. The round plugs might be at hardware store, industrial supply, grainger etc. The carb hose clamp holds them in. But like you said it probably is ok. Maybe the broken carb piece damaged a seal, who knows?

[barnett468]

We'll figure that funky system out. I'm sure someone here kniws but just hasn't responded.

We might have to use the cable adjustment for the idle in the end which seems a bit odd and dangerous.

What happens if you lower the idle adjust and turn the idle mix out?

[SiiCHo]

We'll figure that funky system out. I'm sure someone here kniws but just hasn't responded.

We might have to use the cable adjustment for the idle in the end which seems a bit odd and dangerous.

What happens if you lower the idle adjust and turn the idle mix out?

It dies. Ive tried that. Every time i put new jets in, i ran the idle adjust all the way in (no choke) and worked my up, also started with the mix at 1.5 out every time. Im done messing with it for now. I work too many hours during the week to come home and mess with it. Sadly, shes going to sit until next weekend. Today is my chill day since i work graveyard shift and will be up all night.

[barnett468]

Ok, if I figure something out I'll repost but if it were me I would lower idle adjust raise slide with cable for idle then try mix screw. This way slide will be working like a normal carb.

[barnett468]

Turning the knob might be the same as turning the clicker. Just for fine tuning.

It looks like about 1 out of 10 can make this carb idle on their bike and say they must be constantly messed with.