View Full Version : "212x" Powroll Stroker build--UPDATED 10/19-- 28mm carb problems ):
Hey, finally decided to put some time and work into my 200x, and whaddya know, a powroll stroker pops up on eBay. I found it with 1 hour left yesterday night :D and esniped it for around $250 (tell me if i got a good deal or not!). Pulled the 200x into the garage today, and had at it. Engine was not too hard to get out, some of the bolts needed a lil Kroil and a 1/2" air impact to come out, but nothing broken/stripped :). Took the head apart, and surprisingly everything looks like its in tip top shape. Now we are going to make a flywheel puller. Heres all the pics (with descriptions)
Engine removing (TecateDan, notice the U2 fuel and 110 fuel on the left side:D:D)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00074_zps5d8d0779.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00074_zps5d8d0779.jpg.html)
Bare frame
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00075_zps8024ca1b.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00075_zps8024ca1b.jpg.html)
Engine before (Notice the boost bottle engine stand :lol::lol:)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00076_zps5b53280f.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00076_zps5b53280f.jpg.html)
Engine apart
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00077_zpsecaed210.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00077_zpsecaed210.jpg.html)
Valves (one valve removed)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00078_zps92fa9372.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00078_zps92fa9372.jpg.html)
Valves again
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00079_zpscf3e33ef.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00079_zpscf3e33ef.jpg.html)
Piston
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00081_zps6b6457f6.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00081_zps6b6457f6.jpg.html)
Head
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00083_zpsd01b3768.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00083_zpsd01b3768.jpg.html)
Other side of carb
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00086_zpsbdd21820.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00086_zpsbdd21820.jpg.html)
MORE TO COME
Keith Salyer
06-10-2013, 11:46 PM
I want to see this flywheel puller, need to get one myself..
shortline10
06-11-2013, 11:46 AM
If you need the head ported LMK or performance parts .
Great thread BTW .....
Dirtcrasher
06-11-2013, 05:11 PM
I want to see this flywheel puller, need to get one myself..
Toyota bolts fit it.
Sometimes and old front or rear axle fits too.
Looking forward to the build!!
I was thinking about glassblasting the cases and getting a repaint on them. Is this completely safe? How/with what should I paint them? WHat color:naughty:?
christph
06-11-2013, 11:28 PM
I was going to ask if Powroll is still building engines as their website hasn't been available for about half a year. I just checked again and it looks like they are starting a new website and will still carry the same products--cool.
http://www.powroll.com/10701.html
Dirtcrasher
06-11-2013, 11:29 PM
Nice turning the threads off, lathes are a wonderful thing!!
Powder coating is simple and easy but otherwise if your broke, I would get some good quality motor spray.
It's apart, you have a plan on a great motor. Thats CASH! Don't spend 500$ on the motor and ignore how easy it is to have a quality finish for short money!!
christph, i was already there. Glad that they're up and running again. They have the main frame of the website only, no products or anything last time i checked. I sent them an email about getting pistons
The crank is coming with a 11:1 Sudco 67mm piston, I know that stock is a 65mm bore, should i get it rebored to 67, or just keep the piston I have now? the stock sleeve and piston are still in great shape
Keith, I just used the puller, and it was perfect. For a $1 bolt and 5 mins of machining time, i'm happy. Thus the word "budget build":w00t:
The engine will either be black or white, i wouldn't do anything else because it won't match the frame and plastic.
Would it be ok to glassblast the inside of the cases too?
What/Who do you recommend for flycutting the piston? I dont think we will do it ourselves. It was worth a laugh that in the eBay ad, the seller said that "you can flycut the piston with a dremel if you are real careful" :rolleyes::rolleyes: NO
We are going to work on the valves and the ports ourselves though.
shortline10
06-12-2013, 07:12 AM
I wouldn't go past 66mm on the bore , at 67mm the cylinders tend to break at the base , been their and done that . If you go with powrolls stroker piston the skirt is already stroker cut .
I wouldn't go past 66mm on the bore , at 67mm the cylinders tend to break at the base , been their and done that . If you go with powrolls stroker piston the skirt is already stroker cut .
I figured that 67 wasnt to safe. the seller didnt get their piston from powroll, so its not cut. I would like to keep the stock piston if I can, and just get that cut to clear by a machinist
leevarnado
06-12-2013, 10:51 AM
powroll is still in business,i talked to nicol a few weeks ago.she said they are redoing there website and it will be up and going soon.
Stroker came today. I'm surprised that it came in two days from CA to PA, but still REALLY EXCITED. Heres the pics of the piston and crank. Oh, and after friday, there wont be any updates for a while, I'll be in europe for three weeks :D
I'm trying to get as much as I can before we leave.
----------------------
Notice in this pic that the piston is 66.27 mm, this doesnt seem like a normal size at first, and I was confused. But, when you do 66.27mm - 65mm (stock bore) its a 1.27 mm change, which comes out to a .050 overbore.
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00101_zpsb77e97bf.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00101_zpsb77e97bf.jpg.html)
-------------
Heres the box the piston came in
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00102_zps2587de71.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00102_zps2587de71.jpg.html)
-------------
Crank
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00099_zps569a6377.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00099_zps569a6377.jpg.html)
-------------
Crank with piston
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00097_zpscf87f7a1.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00097_zpscf87f7a1.jpg.html)
shortline10
06-12-2013, 05:18 PM
Nice looking stroker , It also has the HD XR200 rod which is a good thing .... Powroll stopped using that rod when it became discontinued a few years back so you got a good one .
I may have a bit of a problem. Honda lists the service limit for the small end of the con rod at 15.10 mm. on the stroker, it's 15.14mm. I hope this won't be a big problem :wondering.
Also, turns out i measured the piston wrong :rolleyes:. I guess that I'm supposed to measure the size at the bottom of the piston, not where I was. it is EXACTLY 67.00 mm, so i'm going to try and sell it, or whatever. anyone interested in a 67mm piston BRAND NEW, please PM me. I figure that i'm just going to get a 66mm piston from wiseco through eBay, $120 shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330731723541&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_993wt_1033
Anyone know how much of a stroke is added by the new crank? I think it's +4 because theres a #4 on the crank pin
I want to see this flywheel puller, need to get one myself..
I can sell you one, $15 shipped. Thats the best price you'll find around. PM me if you are interested
shortline10
06-13-2013, 07:09 AM
I believe their popular stroker was 6mm .
I may have a bit of a problem. Honda lists the service limit for the small end of the con rod at 15.10 mm. on the stroker, it's 15.14mm. I hope this won't be a big problem :wondering.
Also, turns out i measured the piston wrong :rolleyes:. I guess that I'm supposed to measure the size at the bottom of the piston, not where I was. it is EXACTLY 67.00 mm, so i'm going to try and sell it, or whatever. anyone interested in a 67mm piston BRAND NEW, please PM me. I figure that i'm just going to get a 66mm piston from wiseco through eBay, $120 shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330731723541&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_993wt_1033
Anyone know how much of a stroke is added by the new crank? I think it's +4 because theres a #4 on the crank pin
yaegerb
06-13-2013, 09:18 AM
x2, its a 6mm short-rod.
leevarnado
06-13-2013, 12:15 PM
shortline has pistons for sale,look in the classifieds .
WIkid500
06-13-2013, 09:56 PM
shortline has pistons for sale,look in the classifieds .
And Shortline is GTG, bought a bunch of parts on different occasions from him over the years. Always a pleasure to work with.
UPDATE---- JUNE 14
Split the cases, and have everything apart. Engine is really dirty from old oil, looks like the PO kinda neglected to change it. :rolleyes::(
One question, and a strange find.
When I split the cases, I didn't touch the transmission,all I did was remove the crank. Then I found this little washer (picture 1)sitting in the oil. It doesnt fit over the transmission or shift fork shafts, and the only place that it would go over was the kicker shaft (picture 2). But, when I checked the manual, it says that there is only a spring and thrust washer (which were both on) but no normal washer. So, anyone know where it goes? I think I may know, but I'll explain later. NOW, for the strange discovery. in the clutch side inner case, I found a (what I thought to be) circlip (picture 3, what I found is the bottom piece). But, I couldn't find where it fit into the engine. Just for the heck of it, i decided to check and see if it fit the piston, where the rings are. Whaddya know, that EXACTLY what it is, a broken piston ring. That means that either when someone took it apart, they found it like that and forgot to pick it out, or they accidentally dropped it in there. I'm guessing that It's the same story with the little washer. I guess I'm just lucky that the washer and ring never caught on anything :eek:. I'll be out of town for a while, so no more updates till i get back :( Still need piston and gasket kit, other odds and ends screws and bolts
PICTURE 1
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01138_zpsbe91a4c1.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01138_zpsbe91a4c1.jpg.html)
PICTURE 2
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01139_zps763234db.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01139_zps763234db.jpg.html)
PICTURE 3
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01143_zps964eec30.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01143_zps964eec30.jpg.html)
PICTURE 4
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01135_zpsbe09cf28.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01135_zpsbe09cf28.jpg.html)
PICTURE 5
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01136_zps3971abc9.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01136_zps3971abc9.jpg.html)
shortline10
06-14-2013, 08:00 PM
That washer goes on the kicker shaft part # 17 . Put a little heavy oil on it during installation so it wont fall off this time LOL .
http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2568824&category=ATVs&make=Honda&year=1985&fveh=132997
That washer goes on the kicker shaft part # 17 . Put a little heavy oil on it during installation so it wont fall off this time LOL .
http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2568824&category=ATVs&make=Honda&year=1985&fveh=132997
Thanks for the info, turns out that IS it, i thought i already saw a washer on the end, when there actually wasnt. Stupid me:D
Do you know whats up with the broken ring? It's not off of the piston thats in there now
shortline10
06-15-2013, 08:07 AM
Do you know whats up with the broken ring? It's not off of the piston thats in there now
Must of fallen out when the PO pulled the cylinder :lol:
Your lucky it didn't make it threw the tranny gears ....
atc007
06-15-2013, 09:37 AM
Pic 4 appears to be a piece of a broken ring to me.
maybe i should have inckluded that the picture is BELOW the description "picture ??"
goump1995
06-16-2013, 06:58 PM
Sick Flip-Flops with socks in the last pic, bro...
LMBO! I knew they were there, but was hoping nobody would notice!! I don't work like that, i just slipped em on to take pictures. You caught me :lol:
When can i get titles other than "at the back of the pack" and "first time rider" because i am neither of those!
yaegerb
06-17-2013, 12:16 PM
When can i get titles other than "at the back of the pack" and "first time rider" because i am neither of those!
Your title changes the more you post. Unless the mod's decide to get creative and give you a proper title.
July 7 update
Wow! It's been a while! Well, just got back from vacation, and back to work on the motor. A quick question for those 200x motorheads, what should I replace inside the engine, I know that of course gaskets and some o-rings, just not sure which. And, are there any notorious parts that should be replaced? With the carb apart, i figure that it could use a rebuild kit too. let me know what you think, things I may/may not need. \
Thanks
-Rheese
update of 7-9
Searching for new valves! pm me if you have some
weve decided to not do an overbore, just have someone flycut the piston we have 3mm to fit the crank. tomorrow were going to experiment with glass bead blasting, starting with the stator cover, something insignificant...
my local honda shop had the full bottom end kit in stock, and a full top end one is on its way.
Can anyone recommend a high quality motor spray that we can paint the engine with?
yaegerb
07-09-2013, 08:15 PM
Pj1 fast black. Only high temp black I will use. Comes out perfect, otherwise I powdercoat. Take a look at my 200x build thread if you want to see what the color looks like.
Update for 7-10.
Tested glassblast on the stator cover. heres how it turned out. any surfaces on the engine that can be blasted without the chance of getting inside the engine (right side case, cylinder, head, other misc.
yaegerb, ill have some pj1 on the way. its the non-epoxy one, right?
My other option is to buy a hand powdercoater ($70 on ebay) and do a self-powdercoat
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130710_192949_zps9ebf4887.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130710_192949_zps9ebf4887.jpg.html)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130710_192928_zpsa10511c1.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130710_192928_zpsa10511c1.jpg.html)
yaegerb
07-10-2013, 08:54 PM
Yep, non epoxy. Make sure you clean the surfaces really well with alcohol (thanks flyingw!) and spray in four to five light coats. Let it dry overnight. The results to me are spectacular.
Thanks for the tip. Would the blasted stator cover be good enough to paint just how it is now? I'm kinda an amateur on the painting part of things
I got a few questions about your engine, because I was looking through your flat track x build. Did you paint the engine when it was together or apart? if it was apart, how did you not get paint in the insides, because that's what im worried about. If i get paint on part of the bearing or anything, it'll mess it up. Also, i see that you made the head fins shiny on the edges, like stock, so is that just a light grinding off when it was done? Last one, how did you cut the holes in the sprocket cover? I'm thinking VMC or waterjet?
oldskool83
07-10-2013, 09:54 PM
i used autozone degrease spary, primer, hight temp paint and then backed every peice in the oven for 20 mins at 400 degrees.
these are my pics. Ill never do it again. its just too time consuming however i was laid off for a little and figured i had all the time in the world to do it.
I also modified the sprocket cover to have it accessble like new bikes. reenforced it also so its like a case save now. making putting the chain on super easy like dirtbikes are.
right now im thinking of ditching the airbox as well, and just going to a pod filter, like this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIR-FILTER-MIKUNI-24MM-28MM-FLATSLIDE-VM-CARBURETOR-/300516337108?hash=item45f82b65d4&vxp=mtr) on ebay . the airbox is just one more thing to clean, and the in-frame supertrapp has been melting it a little. Pros and cons of going to a pod filter? i know its not the best protection, and the carb will need a re-jet, but of course I would put an outerwear on it and jets are cheap. If i cant find any outerwear covers, ill just use a pillowcase or a sock :D :lol:
another thing i just remembered. I stripped out the rear brake reservoir body, and its discontinued, so im looking for a replacement, either an OEM that someone has, one that will work from another machine, or a custom fabbed one.
yaegerb
07-11-2013, 12:48 PM
Thanks for the tip. Would the blasted stator cover be good enough to paint just how it is now? I'm kinda an amateur on the painting part of things
I got a few questions about your engine, because I was looking through your flat track x build. Did you paint the engine when it was together or apart? if it was apart, how did you not get paint in the insides, because that's what im worried about. If i get paint on part of the bearing or anything, it'll mess it up. Also, i see that you made the head fins shiny on the edges, like stock, so is that just a light grinding off when it was done? Last one, how did you cut the holes in the sprocket cover? I'm thinking VMC or waterjet?
Yes, the cover is good enough to paint, but be sure to use alcohol to prep the part prior to painting. You want to make sure all of the crap is out of all nooks and crannies or the paint will not do a good job of adhereing. Yes, I painted my engine completely dissassebled. I made card board cutouts to protect the interior case bearings and then for smaller parts I just taped them off. For the shiney cooling fins I used a dremel tool with a small sanding drum and then I hand sanded with a very fine grit. After that I took the fins to my Eastwood buffing wheel. You are the first to notice the holes in the sprocket cover...very good eye indeed! I did those by hand. I used a cutoff wheel on my dremel tool to get the rough shape and then I put the piece in my drill press with a carbide bit grinding tool. After the rough shape was cut I then used small files to get the vents perfect. If you like how that looks, I can do one up for you.
no primer needed then im guessing?
btw the cylinder, right side cover, and sprocket cover are going to be blasted tomorrow
also a new timing mark cover on the stator side is on its way, the old one was in bad condition and it looked worse today after i removed it
Mickey Dunlap
07-11-2013, 01:53 PM
Looking real good. Since you are only a few hours away you can come down and get mine to restore since you have the time off.:p:D
yaegerb
07-11-2013, 02:33 PM
no primer needed then im guessing?
btw the cylinder, right side cover, and sprocket cover are going to be blasted tomorrow
also a new timing mark cover on the stator side is on its way, the old one was in bad condition and it looked worse today after i removed it
You can do primer if you want, but just put a very light coat on the part. I had to redo some pieces on my motor because the primer was too thick. All you need is a quick light fogging and then let it dry completely before applying the PJ1.
well hey mickey if you've got the money to pay for stuff, ive got the time to work on it! :D
yaegerb I like the idea of the sprocket cover, like cutting designs in it so im going to draw up a ATC symbol (like the ATC symbol or 200x symbol on my fenders) in CAD and I can throw it into the waterjet where my dad works
Powrolls site needs to be functioning again soon, because i need to order other stuff, like a high strength cam chain and other misc parts :confused::confused:
minor update
drew up a quick sketch of what i want cut into the sprocket cover
Heres the picture I traced
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/1_zps8cb4cc65.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/1_zps8cb4cc65.jpg.html)
Heres the quick draw up (of course i cant do colors with the waterjet, its just filled for representation and the look)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/2_zps156f770f.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/2_zps156f770f.jpg.html)
oldskool83
07-11-2013, 03:26 PM
i would'nt hold my breath for powroll lol, however I am in AutoCAD almost everyday lol.
i use more inventor than CAD, but i know them both pretty well for 15 :lol:
Mickey Dunlap
07-11-2013, 04:05 PM
well hey mickey if you've got the money to pay for stuff, ive got the time to work on it! :D
yaegerb I like the idea of the sprocket cover, like cutting designs in it so im going to draw up a ATC symbol (like the ATC symbol or 200x symbol on my fenders) in CAD and I can throw it into the waterjet where my dad works
Powrolls site needs to be functioning again soon, because i need to order other stuff, like a high strength cam chain and other misc parts :confused::confused:
I was just razz you. The fun part is building it. I'm powder coating the motor myself anyway.
Have you tried to call Powroll,I thought they were back up and going:wondering
I'm going to call Pete at his house,he has some stuff I need for my motor too.
i know that i can call them, but i would rather do things online, idk its just me
Now I'm looking for an oil cooler kit, does anyone know which will work, and where to mount it on the frame? I see on the right side case that there is a circle embossed in the case, and if you look inside theres an oil port. Is that intake or return?
oldskool83
07-15-2013, 06:11 PM
TRX450R....gotta mod the frame to room and have oil port connection modified to clear all engine components. Heres some pics.
Looks like a good plan. I'll look around for one. Talked to Powroll today on the phone. 10.5:1 pistons, flycut, with rings and pins and gaskets are a steep $210... Still not sure if I'll got for it. Anyways, when I look in the case, there's a oil port in the cover (see the first picture). That is for an oil cooler im guessing (smart plan Honda!), but do I need to do anything to it other than drill & tap two holes? I'm guessing that the circle is the place to drill (see pic #2)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01577_zps5ee74c5a.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01577_zps5ee74c5a.jpg.html)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01578_zpsd109030a.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01578_zpsd109030a.jpg.html)
yaegerb
07-16-2013, 12:08 PM
Worth the read....
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/128834-1st-gen-200X-oil-cooler-install...UPDATE-PART-III-..Done!!?highlight=200x+oil+cooler
oldskool83
07-16-2013, 12:33 PM
you drill 3 holes for a bit for 1/8" NPT threads if i remeber right. the middle you plug. a friend and I used JB weld metal if i remeber right. all you need to do if follow the above links pics. If you can't I have a photograph of the install kit directions used back in the day. I can upload for you when I get home.
1 hole for oil outlet, 1 to plug the oil pathway and 1 for oil return.
rather simple
update for july 28
finally got some time in to do some work and post up some new pics. thursday, i painted a few pieces like the CDI cover, drain plug, kicker, and brake pedal and valve covers. friday, i got a chance to blast most of the engine parts other than the inner cases and head cam/rocker cover piece. not pictured, but still blasted, are the cylinder and few other odds n ends pieces, like the foot pegs. bottom end together after some transmission binding issues (first gear on the countershaft wasnt seating properly and was binding against the kicker gear on the main shaft when tightening the cases together) but i'll probably take it back apart at some time again because i have a few more things to check. This is kind of a 'dry fit'.
:pics::pics::pics::pics::pics::pics::pics::pics::p ics::pics::pics:
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130728_161056_zpsb5363e50.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130728_161056_zpsb5363e50.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130728_161104_zpsacc0cdd6.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130728_161104_zpsacc0cdd6.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130728_161041_zps220d9109.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130728_161041_zps220d9109.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130728_161119_zpsa9851785.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130728_161119_zpsa9851785.jpg.html)
Today i blasted the cylinder and the outside of the head, im trying not to get the inside to make any of the surfaces that hold something, (like the valve guides and valve seats)
as soon as i have enough money, im going to buy either an eastwood or harbor freight PC gun. the thing thats stopping me is that the eastwood is over 2x the price, but i'll probably have better results :confused:. accurately i measured the bore in from north to south and west to east, both on the top of the sleeve and the bottom. north to south was 64.9986 mm, west to east was 65.024 mm, so good there and not out of round enough to worry me at all. ordered stock bore 3mm flycut piston and high strength cam chain from powroll.:beer:w00t:
Dirtcrasher
07-30-2013, 12:39 AM
I always get the piston first so the bore is "spot on".
My Columbia gun and free C-List oven have served me very well. A good rack and gun are a must. A complete 250R motor fits right in. Scary tight but thats how I did Deepasquallies 250R motor..........There is a pic here somewhere or I can find it.
Need to have a good inline filter/dryer or it's all useless. ESP; in the summer hot/humid months.......
yaegerb
07-30-2013, 09:49 AM
I always get the piston first so the bore is "spot on".
My Columbia gun and free C-List oven have served me very well. A good rack and gun are a must. A complete 250R motor fits right in. Scary tight but thats how I did Deepasquallies 250R motor..........There is a pic here somewhere or I can find it.
Need to have a good inline filter/dryer or it's all useless. ESP; in the summer hot/humid months.......
x2, I always buy the oversized piston of my choice and then have the bore matched to the piston. Only way to do this IMO.
oscarmayer
07-30-2013, 02:35 PM
^ yup! you should supply the piston to the machien shop and have them match it the bore to the piston. usually .002"-.0025" clearance around the piston skirt max.
your definatly more out of round than i would ever run it.
^ yup! you should supply the piston to the machien shop and have them match it the bore to the piston. usually .002"-.0025" clearance around the piston skirt max.
your definatly more out of round than i would ever run it.
how is .0254 mm "more out of round than you would ever run it?" Thats absurd! even the service manual says that .1 mm is the limit, and im nowhere near that!
Remember too that depending on the alloy of the piston, there can be a difference in running clearances, because high-alloy forged need up to .006" clearance because of the expansion.
Correction too: powroll called me today and said that their piston kits come only in 66mm, not 65mm (stock) which i want, because my clyinder is in great shape. They recommended buying a wiseco and sending the piston to them to have it flycut for $20, which im going to do.
oscarmayer
07-31-2013, 12:34 PM
why does the piston need to be fly cut? are you runnign much large than stock valves or a super crazy hi lift? sorry if i missed that part of the build i am jsut curious. The reason is you are still slightly egg shaped on the cyclinder now. you need to measure the piston skirt and compair it to the largest section of the cyclinder jug. if it is more than recommended clearances, you may have to get a different jug and bor to piston. i donlt like egged or ovaled cyclinders at all. they can cause some minor blow-by and you will see slight smoking and thus slight compression loss. anyway, that's jsut me. i am picky like that. everyone is different.
but measure the piston skirt to the largest section of the bore and see where ti stands, that is the most important. then do the same for the smaller section, if it is not in specs then machining is needed to fix.
the crankshaft that i have is called a squash rod stroker. look at the pic below to see what im talking about. about 1/3 of the way up the rod, there is a slightly wider part. thats where the rod has been heated up and been squished 3mm, because if not, the piston would hit the head, valves and other things. The crank goes 3mm higher (and lower) so they squish the rod. unfortunately, when they squish the rod, it also makes the piston go lower. that in turn means that you have to trim some material off the bottom of the piston so it wont crash into the crank. Thats called fly-cutting. Sorry if my explanation is confusing, maybe someone like shortline can explain it better.
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC00099_zps569a6377.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC00099_zps569a6377.jpg.html)
WIkid500
07-31-2013, 07:46 PM
I have a Powroll piston for one of these if you want it, sell it to you cheap. It has about one summer of use on it. It's the Arias piston made for the 200x stroker, 10.whatever:1 compression they made them as.
Dirtcrasher
07-31-2013, 08:24 PM
If they want that little amount of $$ to fly cut that of (and that was the proper terminology) then let them do it. I'd still get it bored afterwords but if it's too late, just measure it up all dry on the bench and check you clearances and don't forget the ring gap.
What is interfering with your frame. No biggie if you used a spray can but if it's powdered or auto painted with a hardner, that stinks.....
At least your willing to give all these new changes a go; I'd give ya a big hug if I could, sh!t!!!! I just squashed my computer : (
I have a Powroll piston for one of these if you want it, sell it to you cheap. It has about one summer of use on it. It's the Arias piston made for the 200x stroker, 10.whatever:1 compression they made them as.
thatnks for the offer but i cant use it. All of powroll's pistons are 66mm bore. I'm sticking with 65mm. Ill keep it in mind if i ever do bore it out.
If they want that little amount of $$ to fly cut that of (and that was the proper terminology) then let them do it. I'd still get it bored afterwords but if it's too late, just measure it up all dry on the bench and check you clearances and don't forget the ring gap.
What is interfering with your frame. No biggie if you used a spray can but if it's powdered or auto painted with a hardner, that stinks.....
The engine doesnt need a bore, so I'm not doing it. save the cylinder walls until they wear out. We are still going to hone it though.
What is interfering with your frame. No biggie if you used a spray can but if it's powdered or auto painted with a hardner, that stinks i dont understand :wondering. maybe restate it? I dont have anything interfering on the frame that I know of unless theres a typo in one of my posts
WIkid500
07-31-2013, 08:46 PM
thatnks for the offer but i cant use it. All of powroll's pistons are 66mm bore. I'm sticking with 65mm. Ill keep it in mind if i ever do bore it out.
The engine doesnt need a bore, so I'm not doing it. save the cylinder walls until they wear out. We are still going to hone it though.
What is interfering with your frame. No biggie if you used a spray can but if it's powdered or auto painted with a hardner, that stinks i dont understand :wondering. maybe restate it? I dont have anything interfering on the frame that I know of unless theres a typo in one of my posts
Make sure you measure the bore top, middle, and bottom for wear. Usual price on a bore and hone job is $40, not bad for the work involved. It's a lot easier to do it now, vs finding out you built a smoker and having to tear it apart.
Good luck with the build, hope it turn out good for you! I like my stroker crank, I'm sure you will too.
already measured. if you didnt happen read one of my previous posts where i listed the measurements, ive listed them below with a diagram. ,we do the honing ourselves, so no $ involved in that. quick quiz for you guys, whats the optimum crosshatch angle for honing? I know the answer, but lets see if you guys do. Dont look it up on line! First one to get it gets a FREE nothing. Just provide your social security #, credit card # with exp date, security code, and PIN.
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/200xmeasuringdiagram_zps19e2def1.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/200xmeasuringdiagram_zps19e2def1.jpg.html)
PLEASE remember that I am only human and im not guaranteeing that everything is perfect to the .001 place!
A1 to C1= 2.559" (64.9986 mm)
B1 to D1= 2.560" (65.024 mm)
A2 to C2= 2.559" (64.9986 mm)
B2 to D2= 2.559" (64.9986 mm)
PS Wikid
Where do you notice the most power gain with your stroker? Im think low end, but idk, thats why im asking.
Dirtcrasher
07-31-2013, 10:01 PM
30 degrees. I'll take my nothing in unmarked bills :D I'll edit it to say I just want to see a crosshatch. I like to use a cordless drill on low and hold the cylinder with the vice.
Sorry, I always have numerous windows open, I'll have to see who I meant that reply to.
This was the post, not yours, it was "oldskhool" who had said "TRX450R....gotta mod the frame to room and have oil port connection modified to clear all engine
components. Heres some pics."
No unmarked bills for you! I can however provide the prize in 15 or 25 dollar bills, whichever the winner wants. You did, however, get the technique lol. drill, low speed, up and down. Maybe i should mention that the crosshatch angle is viewed with the cylinder straight up and down, because say like 10 degrees straight up and down turns into 80 degrees if on its side
maybe this quiz isnt such a good idea after all. i cant argue peoples opinions and there is no 100% perfect answer that everyone will agree on. So, new change to quiz. the winner will receive $90 in $30 bills, you know, the ones with george w bush on them;). I guess the answer is what my dad has been using all his life, which is ** degrees. :p
oscarmayer
08-01-2013, 01:14 PM
sorry if i did not say it before, it does look like a nice project you do have going. looking forward to seeing the finished product.
i never heard of a squisked stroker before interesting. i have seen that back in the day they would take 2 rods and cut them. one closer tot he piston pin than the other and then have them welded toget erh where the 2 longest peices were welded. (usually 3-5mm longer max) then some companies came out with modifying the cranks and use the stock rods or both mods. very interesting design you have there. i am curious on the stability of that under heavy usage. since i have never seen one of them before, i cannot even guess how it will perform, but then again i am sure they have been doing it for a while, so probelby ok. but like i said, i hae never seen one of those before so it's very interesting to me. if it works well, i may have some rods i want done for my son's racing ATV engines i build. would save me a ton of $ on it vs. custon made ones we have been getting done. so please keep me posted on the quality and stability.
yaegerb
08-01-2013, 02:06 PM
That stroker rod is a typical rod like what powroll offers. I have the same one in my flat track bike. Powroll calls it a short rod, but I guess it could also be called a squish rod.
oscarmayer
08-01-2013, 02:18 PM
so powroll could take any rod and mod it? Hrmm. intersting! does that mean i can get anotehr 1.5mm stroke out of my motors easly? that would be nice as it would bump them from a 134cc to a 139cc then if i went from a 54mm bore to a 57mm bore that would make it a 155cc engine!!! told on tight bro! hahaaha i can see my son now! "Daddy, I have to hold on tot he handle bars while my feet dangle in the wind!" hahahaha (he's 10)
im not sure if powroll will shorten a rod that someone sends in, but it wont hurt to ask. you can email them from their website or call them (mon-thurs, 9-5 pacific time (12-8 Eastern)) at 541-923-1290. like i said before too, you can have powroll cut your piston bottom to fit the stroker for $25 w/o shipping (which is what im going to do with my wiseco 10.5:1 stock bore piston)
Update for 8/3
All parts are now blasted! except the inner cases, which i wasnt going to do anyways. just bought a brand new wiseco piston from ebay (STD bore, 10.25:1) and got a eastwood PC gun that are both on their way. Also, i calculated that with a 63.7 mm stroke and 65 mm bore, my "200x" will go from a 192cc to a 212cc motor. :D HD cam chain also arrived from powroll. (pic below)
Oscar, i think i read your post wrong the first time. do you realize that just getting your rod shortened will not increase your cc's? Think. if it does get shortened, it will just change what position the piston will be in at BDC and TDC. you would/will need a stroker crankshaft, not just a squashed rod, to get more cc's.
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01603_zps223ccf3e.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01603_zps223ccf3e.jpg.html)
Afrothunderkat
08-04-2013, 07:05 PM
trx450r....gotta mod the frame to room and have oil port connection modified to clear all engine components. Heres some pics.
that seat is awesome!
oscarmayer
08-05-2013, 10:27 AM
ahh, i totally mis-understood, i though they squeesed thre sizes of the rod to stretch it out some. ok they squish it down. makes sence now. ok yea mis-understanding. sorry man.
Teensy tiny update
All parts will be here tomorrow. the piston will go 2nd day air to powroll to be cut, the PC gun will be hooked up and used almost immediately (negotiating a $50 CL oven cause my mom wont let me use hers Deepa:lol:) Head will be together soon, as we are going to do the port and polish tomorrow (flap wheels for die grinder came in today)
update for 8-13
I actually have parts in the oven right now, i started PCing yesterday on a few red pieces, and now im onto black. all my other Al pieces are baking because i have to get rid of the oil because oil is porrous. second pic is pre-bake
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01604_zps67dc215d.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01604_zps67dc215d.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01605_zps5d98d753.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01605_zps5d98d753.jpg.html)
got most of the powder coating done!
Done already:
-left side case
-flywheel and chain cover
-valve cover and caps
-oil drain cap
-cylinder and head
still to do
-kickstarter
-foot pegs
-rear brake linkage
My first parts coated
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01604_zpsf27b9fb2.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01604_zpsf27b9fb2.jpg.html)
Parts with powder, before baking
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01605_zps3727671e.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01605_zps3727671e.jpg.html)
What ive done so far
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01606_zpsc12ec9c2.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01606_zpsc12ec9c2.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01607_zpsc58fa159.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01607_zpsc58fa159.jpg.html)
Look at the color difference!
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130813_153918_zps65831e65.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130813_153918_zps65831e65.jpg.html)
powdercoating question
How many coats do you pros put on parts? im guessing it would be different for the engine parts and the frame parts, because the engine paint cant be too thick. Anyone have some input?
200x350xtriz250
08-14-2013, 06:56 PM
I'm no expert on powder but 1 coat should do unless you are using a 2 or 3 stage powder. As long as everything is covered the first time around, 1 is good with the single stage powders.
Yeah my powders are single stage, so im going to do one coat on engine parts, two on frame parts, and one coat and a clear powder on the fuel tank.
Small update.
Got a call from powroll today, piston will be back in 3 days. also got more black powder on the way, along with white and clear for the fuel tank.
Ok sorry for such a gap but I've been on the run with other things, mainly school. the pics below are from the 28th of august.The tank is done (took two coats, pic is applying the first coat before baking. I have some decals on the way from blue27 (thanks!) and will have that done in a bit. Also PC's the exhaust cap, and painted the exhaust with some HH black.
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01646_zps6dd49ce6.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01646_zps6dd49ce6.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01643_zpse384c00f.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01643_zpse384c00f.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01644_zpsd2c0ee3e.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01644_zpsd2c0ee3e.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01645_zps54dc75e1.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01645_zps54dc75e1.jpg.html)
Ok A lot has been done in the past 2 days. Bottom end together, bottom end all sealed up and ready for action, port n polish, all which didnt take long but im just now taking a breath. Hey, and some input on my thread would be appreciated. Should-do's, shouldn't-do's, general input, compliments:D, etc. Thanks!
FEAST YOUR EYES
********INTAKE*********
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01664_zpsb1609bd0.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01664_zpsb1609bd0.jpg.html)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01665_zps23c80396.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01665_zps23c80396.jpg.html)
*********EXHAUST*********
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01670_zps399f719a.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01670_zps399f719a.jpg.html)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01667_zps81c82897.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01667_zps81c82897.jpg.html)
******BOTTOM END******
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01673_zpsa231c748.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01673_zpsa231c748.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01672_zpse76b303f.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01672_zpse76b303f.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01671_zps32ffcd7a.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01671_zps32ffcd7a.jpg.html)
Just some new pics
The exhaust is now better, i saw that in the picture the the pipe end was a little shady, so fixed that with a sandpaper roll and die grinder
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01674_zpsd67bb872.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01674_zpsd67bb872.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01675_zpscd62cf07.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01675_zpscd62cf07.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01679_zps3f1bc10b.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01679_zps3f1bc10b.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01678_zps3f689c2d.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01678_zps3f689c2d.jpg.html)
OK now I have a question. Before this, I was running a stock jet and clip on lower on the needle. stock jet is keihin 110. The next size I have is a 130, so i was thinking of doing that and raising the clip one spot on the needle. Is this OK? Its just a test because I want to get it running tonight
BTW Engine is in, pretty much 95% set up, just needs carb and need to re-time it with a timing light
PLEASE ANSWER
200x350xtriz250
09-13-2013, 08:12 PM
I would bet 130 is going to be too large.
shortline10
09-13-2013, 08:15 PM
High compression piston and a stroker crank . Good luck trying to jet a stock 24mm carb LOL . Your motor is going to want a 28mm mikuni to run right .
Dirtcrasher
09-13-2013, 08:37 PM
I have a brand new 28mm Mik.
Never touched, will sell cheap......
I have a brand new 28mm Mik.
Never touched, will sell cheap......
PM me with a price and I'll see what I can do. Friday means paycheck day for me ;)
direct bolt on?
Oh and shortline, i'm just trying to make sure that everything on the engine side of things is right. I'm not a lazy trailprotrailprotrailpro, but i'm not perfect. more of a proof-of-run concept :D
Dirtcrasher
09-13-2013, 10:06 PM
PM me with a price and I'll see what I can do. Friday means paycheck day for me ;)
direct bolt on?
Oh and shortline, i'm just trying to make sure that everything on the engine side of things is right. I'm not a lazy trailprotrailprotrailpro, but i'm not perfect. more of a proof-of-run concept :D
I'll find it, get you a pic and PM you. Just an FYI, busy busy weekend. Putting a lift on my truck and bringing in 100 more yards of material for the track. Finally, my friends don't want to ride it which is fine by me :D
Edit - I know how to make it a bolt on but lots of guys make a larger intake and and use a radiator hose........
I looked at yaegerbs flat track X build and thats what he did, a piece of hose with two clamps, one on carb and one on intake. We didnt open up the intake that much, just smoothed it out, the exhaust is where we really hogged it out :p
DC, what model carb is it? TM28?
OK maybe you guys can help me with something else
First start of the engine, it wants to rev really high (maybe about 1/2 - 2/3 throttle) when its just sitting there. carb slide is at bottom, double checked all jets for dirt, running 110 fuel with 130 main, 40 pilot, and clip one notch down from the top (slightly lean). No amount of adjustment to the idle screw fixes it. the only thing I changed was the pilot screw, I set it back to factory specs. HELP:wondering
yaegerb
09-14-2013, 12:11 AM
Have you checked for air leaks? Its typical around the intake manifold gasket.
I'll take a look tomorrow, already closed up the garage for the night. Hopefully i'm going to have a 28 mikuni on the way
Ok figured out what was wrong, the throttle cable adjustment on the handlebars was moved, so it was pulling the throttle body up, thus giving me the revving problem.
Did the break in, assembled the rest of the bike, and voila! She lives!
The only thing I have left to do is get a 28 carb, which I'll have a question for later, and I need to put on the stickers --Thanks to blue27 for all of them!:p
I shaved off some of the PC to get the OEM look head fins, I think it looks pretty great. That #130 jet was perfect, maybe even a little lean (but that might be the needle too), as it backfires sometimes when i let off the gas. and most of all, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I've never ridden such a beautiful machine. I think it's even more fun to ride than my banshee.
Now, onto the carb. I was debating a PWK28 or a mikuni. I run the pwk28's on my banshee and they perform great (even though its a two stroke). Let me know what you think, or other suggestions. The next Thing I need would probably be a new seat cover, redone forks, and other odds and ends
Post about how much you love the build!!!!
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01693_zps6a939097.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01693_zps6a939097.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01687_zpsa8439bb3.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01687_zpsa8439bb3.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01692_zpsc27ef6cb.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01692_zpsc27ef6cb.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01688_zpsc1c2bcd6.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01688_zpsc1c2bcd6.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01691_zpsa0d48744.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01691_zpsa0d48744.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01690_zps6f1af10a.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01690_zps6f1af10a.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/DSC01689_zpse014455d.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/DSC01689_zpse014455d.jpg.html)
ColtonGG33
09-14-2013, 07:29 PM
Dang rg that looks super nice! U did a really good job on it!
Yeah it turned out a lot better than I had hoped actually. Still doesnt hold a candle to some other builds though
Yamaha_Rules69
09-14-2013, 11:26 PM
Get some super scoops from maier mfg on there, and hook up the rear brakes and skidplate to protect that nice motor. That would look really good with the scoops though, check them out, and nice build! Looks really nice, fresh and clean. Another one brought back!
red or white on the super scoops? just an opinion question
more assembly pictures
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130914_151750_zpse6b1954b.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130914_151750_zpse6b1954b.jpg.html)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130914_151830_zps4cded1b0.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130914_151830_zps4cded1b0.jpg.html)
Dirtcrasher
09-15-2013, 09:56 PM
Looks great brother, now enjoy the sleeping power!!
If your running that ST exhaust and no A/B lid, start very rich. Clean trike lungs LOVE to run!!
6speedthumper
09-15-2013, 10:13 PM
Really cool, man. Glad you like it. Nothing better then a sleeper! Sometimes it's best to leave a machine looking rough;)
Right now i'm running no air box whatsoever, so super rich is what its set to
yaegerb
09-16-2013, 10:47 AM
Right now i'm running no air box whatsoever, so super rich is what its set to
If you need an airbox, let me know. I have an extra airbox assembly I don't need.
zmpolaristech
09-16-2013, 12:00 PM
Go with the PWK....Mikuni's don't hold a candle! lol
If you need an airbox, let me know. I have an extra airbox assembly I don't need.
I'm just going to run a k&n or a uni with a sock straight off the carb
Yesterday, I got my white fork boots (thanks oldskool83!) and hopefully they will go on either today or friday. My white super scoops are on their way as well, but they are coming from portland oregon so they should be here maybe friday or saturday. Right now, i've been taking the paint off of the front skidplate so I can PC it white
OK here are some 95% done pics
I still need to put on the engine skid plate, get a 28mm carb, and i'm planning on a possible powdercoat of the swinger, in white
Thanks to zmperformance on eBay for the super scoops and oldskool83 for the fork boots
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130922_181914_zpsc029b893.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130922_181914_zpsc029b893.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130922_181830_zpse56e64ac.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130922_181830_zpse56e64ac.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20130922_181818_zps8c437e5f.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20130922_181818_zps8c437e5f.jpg.html)
this is my first draft of an intake that i can get converted to a BOBcad file and send to the Haas VMC.
'http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/Untitled_zps146cddc5.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/Untitled_zps146cddc5.jpg.html)
thanks to Dirtcrasher for the mikuni VM28 flatslide. I'm trying to get some pics up ASAP. Did a dry fit on the carb, and with no intake, i cant hook anything up, but this looks like its going to be a major PITB:(. The mikuni is larger on top because of the flat slide, and the whole body and bowl are larger too. I saw in yaegerbs flat track build that he cut off the parking brake line holder on the inside of the frame, i'm going to have to do the same, maybe more. the flatslide combined with the 4mm larger should turn this thing into a different bike.
also, I put out a WTB on the classifieds on here, but that side of the site isnt as looked at as here, so im going to ask here too that anyone that has an aftermarket X intake, kinda like yaegerbs, please PM me, because I would rather buy one than make my own
200x350xtriz250
10-01-2013, 06:43 PM
What about this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BSA-TRIUMPH-NORTON-CARBURETOR-INLET-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-STRAIGHT-30mm-/261135406629?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccce21625&vxp=mtr
Dirtcrasher
10-01-2013, 06:46 PM
I have a worn out model of this carb. They use a 4 jaw chuck in a lathe and turn down the front.
Then they make up a flat flange and it's a bolt on.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/Mikuniflatslide2.jpg (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/Dirtcrasher/media/Mikuniflatslide2.jpg.html)
shortline10
10-01-2013, 06:54 PM
The 200x aftermarket intake comes out at an angle .
A 28mm flat slide is a very tight fit and needs a short aftermarket intake manifold also some massaging of the carb itself . I grind some of the top cap off to clear the frame and I believe the back side of the choke handle needs help also .
What about this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BSA-TRIUMPH-NORTON-CARBURETOR-INLET-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-STRAIGHT-30mm-/261135406629?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccce21625&vxp=mtr
200x350xtriz250
10-01-2013, 07:13 PM
The 200x aftermarket intake comes out at an angle .
A 28mm flat slide is a very tight fit and needs a short aftermarket intake manifold also some massaging of the carb itself . I grind some of the top cap off to clear the frame and I believe the back side of the choke handle needs help also .
That looked a lot like his drawing and since he is not using an air box, couldn't he use this to connect the intake posted to the carb and have some flexibility as to where it sits/hits?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-1-1-2-Inch-45-Degree-Racing-Silicone-Hose-Elbow-Coupler-38mm-Blue-Color-/171089300863?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d5b78d7f&vxp=mtr
Not sure what or where his air filter is though or how it is connected to the carb.
shortline10
10-01-2013, 07:24 PM
Couple pictures of a 28mm flatslide on my 200x
200x350xtriz250
10-02-2013, 06:37 PM
Couple pictures of a 28mm flatslide on my 200x
Those pics help me understand much better. BTW, nice x!
Really cool, man. Glad you like it. Nothing better then a sleeper! Sometimes it's best to leave a machine looking rough;)
Who ever said that it looked rough? :D
Couple pictures of a 28mm flatslide on my 200x
That looks great, but I've been giving things a try with fitment as it is, and i have some problems
1.) my fuel inlet is on the other side (clutch side) of the carb, right where the frame is at.
2.) my choke lever is right above the fuel inlet, also interfering with the frame
3.) the top of the carb hits the tank (yours doesnt because you have an aftermarket tank)
4.) i don't have an aftermarket intake, but i've been trying to fabricate my own over the past few hours.
5.) my idle screw hits the frame on the other side (magneto side) of the frame
OK i got some pics now, hopefully someone like shortline can help me out lol
My dad and I just TIG welded a 1' piece of 1" aluminum pipe onto and old intake... it works, but its at the wrong angle (see first set of pics)
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131019_204919_zps53ef6f9d.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131019_204919_zps53ef6f9d.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131019_204842_zps095cdce0.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131019_204842_zps095cdce0.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131019_204828_zps4d68faae.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131019_204828_zps4d68faae.jpg.html)
original intake concept
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131019_180426_zpsa25caa42.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131019_180426_zpsa25caa42.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131019_180438_zps18b36a52.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131019_180438_zps18b36a52.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131019_180516_zps924f510b.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131019_180516_zps924f510b.jpg.html)http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131019_180433_zpsfb05e013.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131019_180433_zpsfb05e013.jpg.html)
fisinshed tank, needs a good wipe-down
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/20131019_205121_zps967194cc.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/20131019_205121_zps967194cc.jpg.html)
shortline10
10-19-2013, 09:47 PM
Angle and manifold length is crucial . Set the carb in the area were it sets best and measure the difference for the manifold . Also I noticed your carb has the choke and fuel inlet on the wrong side .
Angle and manifold length is crucial . Set the carb in the area were it sets best and measure the difference for the manifold . Also I noticed your carb has the choke and fuel inlet on the wrong side .
in regards to the fuel and choke, i know they're on the wrong side, but as it sits the carb is forced to sit like that because of the messed up intake. once i get a proper one made, i'm pretty sure it will get fuel and i can pull the choke up.
well, i'm just going to end up ditching the manifold thats on there now, it's been too much of a PITB and the angle is wrong but the length is right.
i took some dimensions and drew up the intake base (the side that goes onto the head) in CAD, and the piece is a little more complicated than i had first thought (the holes that the bolts go into to go into the head DO NOT line up with the intake hole)... so here it is... Its a .dxf file that can be sent to the waterjet cutter and cut out of 1/4" aluminum
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r696/rg97/Untitled_zps41485877.jpg (http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/rg97/media/Untitled_zps41485877.jpg.html)
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.2 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.