200s leaking fuel.

[PAPA250r]

My 84 honda 200s has been goin through about 2-3 needles a season a local dealer told me it could be the ehenol in the fuel so i tried to use an ethanol treatment but it still keep happening. It will not leak with a new needle valve for a month or two then it starts again .

Any one else having this issue ? I ride the crap out of it put 850 miles on it since may lol but the leaking gas is getting old.

The needle seat is not worn could it be just bootleg needles ?

[Flossyb20]

Could be your float also...might be something you want to check...give it a shake and see if there's any gas in it. If I recall correctly, the float needles come with rubber tips on them, do you know what brad you're getting? Some of the cheaper rebuild kit won't hold up to the gas like the OEM...

[PAPA250r]

They are moose needles . The float is brand new .

Thanks for the info

[PAPA250r]

Assuming the needle valve seat is worn it is not replaceable from what i have seen this has been an issue through about 5 needles so i am starting tonthink its sonething else . I have adjusted the float to oem and even below oem to see if it would stop leaking but it does not .

[Scootertrash]

Yor needle seat is worn out. You need this http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-86-Honda-ATC200S-ATC-200S-OEM-Carburetor-Jet-Needle-Set-16012-VM4-004-NOS-/170996908455?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d035c1a7&vxp=mtr Or just buy a 25.00 china carb on ebay and throw it on. Up to you... I use mechanic in a bottle found at Home depot for the ethanol problem. Used to use stabil and some of my carbs were iffy......love this new stuff. To each his own though....I have used all of the additives at one time or another.....personal preference I guess???

That kit you posted will do nothing to prevent the fuel from leaking. That's the main jet needle, not the fuel shut off needle (called the float valve in the microfiche, part number 16155-413-751. ;)

Here is a Honda float valve: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CB650-CBX650-POLICE-CARBURETOR-FLOAT-VALVE-16155-413-751-/271092374534?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1e5d5c06&vxp=mtr

Get your fuel level in your tank nice and low, then use a flashlight and look inside and see if you have a bunch of crap in the bottom of the tank. If you do then flush your tank out by putting in a little gas, swish it around, then remove the petcock and dump the rinsing fuel out of the petcock opening. That way any crap in the tank will not be stopped by the filter on the petcock. Then replace your fuel supply lines if you haven't already. The lines can deteriorate and send crap down into the carb and block the needle from closing all the way.

Take a look at the seat for the float valve and make sure it's not damaged or dirty, a magnifying glass comes in handy for that. ;)
I run a q-tip with carb cleaner on it down to the valve seat for the bowl and clean it up when I rebuild a carb. A clean carb is a happy carb.

You wouldn't believe the amount of crap I've flushed out of fuel tanks over the years, along with fine sediment from carb bowls. Even tho there is that filter on the petcock, fine particles of crap can still get to the carb from the tank (where else would it come from?). People haul their fuel cans around in the back of their trucks or have them sitting in the open in their shed or garage. Dust, dirt and whatever accumulates on top of the gas can and when they go to fill their tank they don't clean the crap off of the top of the can and all the loose crap goes right into the tank.

I try to stay away from the aftermarket carb kits.

FWIW I never have problems with fuel.

[dougspcs]

The issue at hand here would be the float seat, the float valve pin.. or the float being full of gas others meantioned. If the float system is worn, dirty or the float is sinking the fuel will flow uncontrolled in the bowl and overflow out the drain hole..

Needle and seats are for mixture control..

Is this not what your issue is PAPA? Maybe I'm missing something or am confused about your issue..

[PAPA250r]

I was talking about the "float valve" and the brass part it sits into. I have a habit of calling them needle and seat my badlol. Thanks for the link to oem

[CRAZY70MAN]

That kit you posted will do nothing to prevent the fuel from leaking. That's the main jet needle, not the fuel shut off needle (called the float valve in the microfiche, part number 16155-413-751. ;)

Here is a Honda float valve: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CB650-CBX650-POLICE-CARBURETOR-FLOAT-VALVE-16155-413-751-/271092374534?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1e5d5c06&vxp=mtr

Get your fuel level in your tank nice and low, then use a flashlight and look inside and see if you have a bunch of crap in the bottom of the tank. If you do then flush your tank out by putting in a little gas, swish it around, then remove the petcock and dump the rinsing fuel out of the petcock opening. That way any crap in the tank will not be stopped by the filter on the petcock. Then replace your fuel supply lines if you haven't already. The lines can deteriorate and send crap down into the carb and block the needle from closing all the way.

Take a look at the seat for the float valve and make sure it's not damaged or dirty, a magnifying glass comes in handy for that. ;)
I run a q-tip with carb cleaner on it down to the valve seat for the bowl and clean it up when I rebuild a carb. A clean carb is a happy carb.

You wouldn't believe the amount of crap I've flushed out of fuel tanks over the years, along with fine sediment from carb bowls. Even tho there is that filter on the petcock, fine particles of crap can still get to the carb from the tank (where else would it come from?). People haul their fuel cans around in the back of their trucks or have them sitting in the open in their shed or garage. Dust, dirt and whatever accumulates on top of the gas can and when they go to fill their tank they don't clean the crap off of the top of the can and all the loose crap goes right into the tank.

I try to stay away from the aftermarket carb kits.

FWIW I never have problems with fuel.


Thanks for correction. My mind is currently on Carb overload as we speak....lol..... Wrong needle....sorry buddy....;);)

[Scootertrash]

I was talking about the "float valve" and the brass part it sits into. I have a habit of calling them needle and seat my badlol. Thanks for the link to oem

That's what I call 'em too ;)

No Prob 70man, that's what we're here for. To help each other fix our booboo's :D

[PAPA250r]

So lets say where the "float valve" Aka needle valve seat is worn . Theres
No replacement for that just basically a junk carb ?

[Scootertrash]

As far as I know the seat is not replaceable. I don't know that they really get worn, but they may get corroded over the years from fuel going bad. Before you junk the carb tho, you may be able to dress up the seating surface with a dremel stone or a small drill bit. I've pulled this off a few times, but only as a last resort. DO NOT put either in a dremel or any kind of machine. GENTLY spin the stone or drill bit between your finger tips to LIGHTLY clean up and resurface the seat area for the needle.

Bonus points for you if you can shape the dremel stone to match the tip angle of the needle. It also helps to have on of these to see if your work is smooth where the needle will sit:

164129

Some may laugh, but I've been using one of these for years for very small close up work. Now that I'm approaching geezerdom, it comes in even more handy.

[PAPA250r]

Thanks . I ordered an oem needle and ill see what happens when its apart

[Scootertrash]

Remember, the key is GENTLY. You don't want to remove a bunch of the brass, just clean it up a little. You could even try using a q-tip with a little toothpaste on it. Brasso and chrome type polishes that are very fine would work too. Matter of fact I would try the polishing technique first, then get more aggressive only if you have too. Just make sure you clean the seat area well. I am going to switch my process over to polishing first.

[kb0nly]

I have taken a q-tip and jewelry polish to buff them before, i put the q-tip in an adapter i made for a small electric screwdriver i have, low speed, just buffs it smooth and shiny then flush with carb cleaner to remove excess polish.

[PAPA250r]

Sounds good i will def try that thanks

[donwon]

As far as I know the seat is not replaceable. I don't know that they really get worn, but they may get corroded over the years from fuel going bad. Before you junk the carb tho, you may be able to dress up the seating surface with a dremel stone or a small drill bit. I've pulled this off a few times, but only as a last resort. DO NOT put either in a dremel or any kind of machine. GENTLY spin the stone or drill bit between your finger tips to LIGHTLY clean up and resurface the seat area for the needle.

Bonus points for you if you can shape the dremel stone to match the tip angle of the needle. It also helps to have on of these to see if your work is smooth where the needle will sit:

164129

Some may laugh, but I've been using one of these for years for very small close up work. Now that I'm approaching geezerdom, it comes in even more handy. i use a led bore light for cleaning guns and it works great. can jam it down in spots most lights can't get to.