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Eric250R
01-28-2013, 07:07 PM
guess I need to break down and ask for help. Tried posting in the help section but it wouldn't let me post for some reason, anyway, here goes. I have never been able to get my R jetted right. Its an 86 .040 over wiseco, full fmf pipe, uni filter, and a full pvl ignition set at .0060 btdc. Stock carb. I have tried several jets with and without the airbox lid. If anyone bas a similar setup I would be interested in knowing what jet size you used. Or do I need to just break down and buy a 38mm ? Oh, and where did you put your needle ?

jeswinehart
01-28-2013, 07:30 PM
Eric you have probaly seen this posting by Damit but just in case you have not,,,http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/55086-Carb-Jetting-101-Terms-Tips-and-Jetting-Theory

It has helped me, hopefully it will you too.

Dirtcrasher
01-28-2013, 08:55 PM
It's not going to matter what others do because you are at a different altitude with different parts.

Johns right, read that thread!

There is nothing wrong with your carb unless you have a plugged oriface.

I myself would toss in a fat main jet with the a/b cover on. New plug and read it. Another new plug then take the a/b lid off. Compare the 2 results and how it ran.

If it looks fat and dark, drop down a size or two and repeat with the lid on and off.

Of course, make sure you have no air leak issue or reed assembly problem.

Report back and we'll go from there.

ONLY MAKE ONE JETTING CHANGE - during your trouble shooting and document it on a note pad. It is a PITA but once you get it, you'll be jumping for joy!! :beer

fire1
01-28-2013, 09:22 PM
Have you done a leak down test on it. Air leak will drive you crazy on jetting.

RubberSalt
01-28-2013, 09:46 PM
Have you done a leak down test on it. Air leak will drive you crazy on jetting.

VERY IMPORTANT - This is a must to a good running long last engine. Nothing like having an uncontrollable air bleed at all times.

Eric250R
01-28-2013, 10:11 PM
no air leaks, started at a 168 jet worked down, have tried several. Pet cock is clean and flows great. Carb has been cleaned repeatedly. Have tried with and without the lid, have adjusted the air screw repeatedly, moved needle. I can get it really close, but never perfect. And when it does get really close it will die after hard riding. I can make half a lap around a track and its like you hit the kill switch. Like its sucking the fuel bowl dry, even though the fuel is flowing great. Then it will fire back up no prob.

fire1
01-28-2013, 10:22 PM
Check and make sure all electrics are within specs

Billy Golightly
01-28-2013, 11:20 PM
Check and make sure all electrics are within specs

That was going to be my reply. How wide is your spark plug gapped at?

atc007
01-28-2013, 11:25 PM
DEF spark...

Eric250R
01-29-2013, 12:18 AM
plug is gapped to spec. I'm starting to lean towards the pvl ignition, I may throw a stocker back in it and see what happens.

just ben
01-29-2013, 12:40 AM
.006 btdc? Thats a bit late I think. from what I have found in researching how to set up my pvl it should be around .080btdc. Timing doesn't sound like an issue though. to me it kinda sounds like a float adjustment issue

AngusJustice
01-29-2013, 12:45 AM
I had the same issue with my 85 250R I worked on it replacing parts (including new wire harness) and trying everything i could think of for including new wire harness over a year and a half and finally gave up on it and didn't touch it for over a year.
Then one day i tried to start it up and it fired right up and ran great never did figure out the issue but due to all the previous work i did trying to get it to run I no
longer look at it as fun & reliable I look at it as a pain in the ass. Bought a 125 and never looked back. I know this doesn't help you in any way but don't do like me
and work on it for ever because I now resent the trike. Peace of shi*. I have never had more problems with any 2 stroke trike including my 86 250R than I have with
this one it's like it was made out of left over parts.
Cheers!