Barn find!

[RubberSalt]

It was for sale on the list. $300 bones is what he wanted. I gave him a happy $250 :) It doesn't run. The flywheel is missing and the lighting coil is toast. It has a ton of squeeze.
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The grab bar.. that area is all cobbled together :(

[cochran]

I'd give him $250 all day long for that. Nice score!

[Swinger]

Nice find and hell of a price for an 84T3 that is pretty much all there.

[sp8twn]

Great score!!!!

[Dirtcrasher]

Good deal Salty!! :beer

[dustrunner]

great find.. wish i found it...

[RubberSalt]

Guy said it's an 85. I didn't see the year stuck on the steering stem near the forks. Any place to check?

it seems like theres something wrong with the clutch. No tension on the cable. The shifter moves waaay more than reasonable. It does go into the gears.....

Occasionaly, the kickstart will click and not crank the engine.


In other news, 190psi comp :-D

[Dirtcrasher]

Thing is that you can mix up some stuff for those 2 years. I've also seen stock and 2 different style braces on the left middle motor mount as well as under the rear seat post rubbers.

86-85 swinger/85 with 86 motor. Bunch of crap.... Run the VIN but then again, who cares, just use your best parts :beer

[just ben]

no doubt it's an 84. A decal showining the model year and vin would be on the downtube.the vin should be stamped into the left side of the steering neck

[MIK6]

Yep im w ben.. 84.. drum front brake

MIK6/ Mike

[RubberSalt]

I shall go with 84! <-- still havent looked lol

Anyways, where can i find a manual for this? Something wonky going on with the shifter and clutches, i want to check them out.


I enjoy a good tear down/ inspection.

[RubberSalt]

World region:Asia
Manufactured in:Japan
Year:1984
Make:Kawasaki
Model:KXT250-A
Body style:All Terrain
Drive type:RWD
Cylinders:1 Cylinders

[RubberSalt]

Good news everybody. The clutches work!! stronger than im used too.

The shifter... was very lose on there. some light stripping on the shifter, but not the shaft :) I've ground a little down to get this on there snugger. getting ready to put it on and see how it fits! :)

It shifts great! :)

I'm thinking about Rickys stator and flywheel combo. I read all the horrible reviews of it. But i never read about anyone using the 12v AC regulator that they state to use on the website.

[bkm]

My tecate has a Ricky Stator and flywheel and I believe dcreel said it has been on there for many years without a single hiccup.

[RubberSalt]

Do you have the AC voltage regulator?

[just ben]

Do you have the AC voltage regulator?I have run a ricky with an 80w lighting coil with 55/60 halogen bulb and an 1156 tailight with no issues

[RubberSalt]

Neat.

I spoke with the guys at Ricky, they have a AC to DC regulator that handles up to 225 watts. It will charge a battery also. Im going for HIDs :) going to try and get a 65w.

[jeswinehart]

Yeah you might want to wait and get a manual for it first so you can check the specs on the lighting coil first Gabriel before replacing it. In stock form the lighting coil voltage is low at idle (8 volts or so) but once up in the R's the mag puts out around 18 volts so it may have simply toasted that BaHa light is all.
I have never used a voltage reg but don't sound like a bad idea.
I'll pm you about flywheel.

john

[RubberSalt]

Stock coil uses 175 turnes with 18-19 guage wire. Heads up to those who want to rewind (I may rewind mine my self)

The YT175 coil has a bolt pattern about 2mm wider. SO CLOSE. I wonder if the tecate coil will fit the yt lol

[RubberSalt]

I finished my lighting coil last night. Epoxy will be fully set up by the time i get off work. It clears everything under the flywheel. I added a few more turns to it... Its closer to 275 turns opposed to 175 :) There was room to add a few more, but 78 feet of wire is all I had.

I was talking to a guy at the auto store, He suggested a old 70s jeep CJ5 voltage regulator.

I do have a KLT 200 rectifier I could figure out. It would give me a good charging system also. Allow me to get that 35watt HID, maybe even a 55! :)
Couple that with LED tail lights and other accent lights (i <3 leds)... :)

[RubberSalt]

WOOO!! Lifan motorcycle voltage regulator is like $9

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-Scooter-Fit-ATV-125-150-200-250cc-5-Wire-/110954729920?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item19d56ad1c0&vxp=mtr

headlights, tail lights, turn signals, gauges... They use more power than i do. The regulator should work great :-D

[TecateDan]

Ahhhhh yes .. Hids on a tecate it can and has been done but your forgetting the tecate puts out ac voltage and u my friend will need dc voltage for the hid.. There's a thread if u use the search bar or google under tecate hid :-)

[TecateDan]

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/134995-Tecate-with-HID-and-LED-s

[RubberSalt]

Those are regulators /rectifiers :)

Im looking into the thread now.

[RubberSalt]

Interesting. I wish we had the results on if the 55w let the battery charge.

Thats pretty much how ill be setting mine up :) we have the same plans more or less lol.

[RubberSalt]

I got spark tonight!! The source coil was bad. Bought a lot, 4 stators, Put a ugly nasty 1 in and it got spark! I'm going to clean it up and merge together. Going to test out my custom lighting coil and the known good source coil.

[RubberSalt]

Next on the get engine running list in the intake manifold. Mine got a nice big Rip.

I've got 3 options for this (and i've made up my mind). 1. Cheapest but by far the hardest is to cast my own manifold. 2. Purchase a RED manifold from Jeswinehart when he's ready to make them. He sold me the no magnet flying off fly wheel and I'm more than impressed with it. 3. drop $110 one off ebay.

I'm going with 2 and 1 lol. Jes gave me the knowledge and he has the experience. I want it to work right lol. Then 1 because i want to learn this skill and make other parts :)

[bkm]

I had one of Johns intake boots on my old Tecate and I was more than impressed with the quality. I ran a 38mm PWK and it slid right in nice and tight. Johns work is second to none, not to mention he's one of the nicest guys on this board. I promise you will not be disappointed.

[Swinger]

Ill second that, cant go wrong when you deal with John.

[RubberSalt]

I more than agree to that statement.

Time to go see if i can make it run. Patched my old intake up for the time being. I give it 6 minutes before it fails lol

[RubberSalt]

I got the old machine running. Sounds real good. Im still waiting for Jes to prepare the red intakes :-p

In the mean time, I've been working on getting more power out of the stator.

161312

[jeswinehart]

Yeah, not the flaming arse fluorescent red I was hoping for,,, but red none the less.

161378161379161380

[RubberSalt]

:-D

I cant wait.

[just ben]

In the mean time, I've been working on getting more power out of the stator.

if it doesn't work out,you could just buy an 80 watt coil. They are only 40.00

[RubberSalt]

My new design consist of 3 coils. I have a feeling i'm going to leaving that 80 watts in the dust :)

Going to run a voltage regulator off a KLT200 with a small sealed battery.

161489161490

[RubberSalt]

I've had the machine up and running, testing, making sure it ran.

It ran like garbage! :( I did a leak down only to find my case halves leaking. Someone marred up the cases trying to pry them apart :(

I've decided to give my dad's idea a shot, JB weld... Talk about a long process. Cleaning, sanding, roughing up surface.. With a screw driver. Cleaning, carb cleaning... Fitting a vacuum cleaner to my intake. loosen case bolts, coat case halves, with jbweld, where leaking.. and up and down halves 6 inches. 1 inch out. Turn vacuum on. Pull JB into the crack. Tighten bolts, watch JB be squished out.

Now i can hold pressure:-D i think. Need more air pressure. 3psi isn’t enough.

[RubberSalt]

The damage Cases after I prepped them.

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The Jb weld No more leaking Cases :-D
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I now see why i got this trike cheap.

The flywheel seal is leaking now :( :( :(
Gotta split cases.

[RubberSalt]

The flywheel seal leaked after I got some more pressure, 6psi... :( Sad day. I have split the cases. Unfortunately my bearing separator was a hair small and ruined my bearings during the removal. But that’s OK; I wanted an excuse to replace them anyways. Ordered a bearing/seal kit. I went with All balls bearings seals - because that’s all I could find lol

Here are some pictures of the work. Parts of the puller are home? (Well work made). It helped a billion.

The clutch worries me a little with the hairline looking stress cracks all over.

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[just ben]

those are casting marks on the clutch basket,nothing to worry about

[RubberSalt]

Thanks Ben, they really had me worried.

I really like the last person who assembled this. Crank looked to be hammered out of the clutch side. The washer in the clutch basket came that way. The long skinny rod behind the clutch had a ball (normal) then a custom crookedly cut segment of rod, tiny chunk.

I’m glad I under took this project to get it back up to par. When I removed the drain plug, it had some think gunk on it. After getting it apart, it didn’t look to be much of a concern, but I got to clean it anyways!. Shift forks measured within spec, need to check a few other parts and make sure their OK.


Now I need someone to confirm this is a Tecate and not a KX. The case numbers on this say KH-KX250C0e007048

[JasonB]

looking like youre getting her back up! great price on the find too, i would def grab a tecate for 250$!!

also, you used a vacuum to check the leakdown with?! I wonder how much air they draw, I was under the impression you needed to pressurize the cases up to 6psi or so to find leaks. sounds like your getting on top of things though!

[RubberSalt]

Vaccuum isn't needed to my understanding. I did it to cheat when trying to seal with JB weld.

If air can get in, then i can vaccum JB weld in :-p lol

[fabiodriven]

While you have the cases apart, that'll be the perfect time to really address the marred up case halves. JB Weld should work great for that. Now you can apply, let it set, then sand them down and they should be good as new!

[RubberSalt]

Already on top of that, fabio. :)

I've got a 16 x 16 slab of granit and some ultra fine sand paper. I'd rather use a lapping compound or something.

Any recommendation?

[fabiodriven]

Personally? Not really. The chunk of granite with the sandpaper sound like the perfect tool for the job to me.

[RubberSalt]

I figured it was a close second, unfortunately. The part is bigger than the sand paper. but i can make it work.

[JasonB]

sanding jb weld is a pain in the d!ck. srs. I did some work to a 250sx tank in 2004 when i first got into trikes and spent probably 3 hours sanding and filling o a tank to make it look right. what a joke ahahahahahaah

jb weld is tough to sand down, take your time and make sure you dont go through the case or cause thing spots since the jb weld is alot harder than the case material. I would suggest picking up some 1inch dowels at lowes and some small pieces of scrap wood to wrap different grits of sand paper around. prob start iwth something hardcore like 100 grit and work your way up in steps. who knows :lol: make it pretty :naughty:

[Dirtcrasher]

IDT you will ever "lap" those cases.

The marks are from some MORON who split the case with a screwdriver.

Like Fabio said, you may be better off building up those hack marks with JB weld or other epoxy.

I would use a dremel and make some x's or small cuts in there to help the JB have something to bite into.

This is your chance to repair it and I would make it a priority to repair it while it's apart.....

[RubberSalt]

I've began lapping. So far i've got most of the ugly out. Using 600 grit (time consuming but smooth!).

There is only 1 spot that actualy worries me, its where it leaked originally, about halfway through the sealing surface now.

I'm going to follow the suggested advice here. Fill spots with JB weld, smooth down. Otherwise it will be here 6 decades. What grit should I finish these with? 600? 1000? 1500

[RubberSalt]

I filled the spots with JB weld. Worked it in each spot, then used a hard plastic stretch edge to wipe excess off. 24 hours ill lap it som more and make sure i get into the JB with the lapping. Ill know it's good then.

[RubberSalt]

Jb weld +lapping = great idea

After a little lapping, you can't even feel the pits, even with a fingernail :)

Now as I wait for bearings to show up... I'm going to think of a neat paint setup. Definitely going red and black.

So far I have this idea.
Bottom end is red...
Jug is black, black case bolts, black water pump, and black stator cover. Black cylinder head nuts, black reed cage(outside parameter)
Head is red, Red cylinder nuts, Red water spigot(with black bolts!)

[Dirtcrasher]

Fantastic :D

[RubberSalt]

I have made so many ugly ass things that worked but ugly. For some reason i feel like this Tecate needs to be pretty lol

[Dirtcrasher]

^ Just like girlfriends :lol:

[RubberSalt]

LOL :lol:

SO TRUE

[RubberSalt]

I had the crnak inspected. Its true to .001 thousands. The rod is about half life.

Seal installation metheod, grease case and seal. Freeze, drop into case, press in with wooden block. - done!

Bearing installation metheod. Grease case and bearings - Freeze bearing drop in case half. Right side. Done! left side - Phone call at 12:34 am (this can't be good) bearing is now half way in.. at an angle - crap!! After pressing it that way, ill say i regret it. It has an ever so slight hic up when turning down. It will run, not enough to be a worry, just something to be noted.

Ended up making a press with a bolt and pressing the high end down. Then hammering an aluminum block on the high end to straighten it out.

Crank installation is on hold. I will be sourcing much longer 6 x 1.25 bolts. My brackets and chunks of aluminum will not allow for a puller/press to press the crank in. I need to raise my blocks above the crank webs for this to work properly.

I will be rebuilding later ths summer with a new rod. and apparently, new bearings.

[TecateDan]

More info please


My new design consist of 3 coils. I have a feeling i'm going to leaving that 80 watts in the dust :)

Going to run a voltage regulator off a KLT200 with a small sealed battery.

161489161490

[RubberSalt]

More info please

Instead of the single coil for lighting output, I'm going to use 3. I managed to re-wrap a single coil with 45% more windings. This will allow a higher voltage and the same current. Then we add the other 2 coils on the side. They will give this roughly 450-500 windings vs the stock 176. By separating the coils, i can allow a higher amperage also (if the magnates can induce 1). The regulator will rectify the voltage to DC and then the battery will regulate the 12v.


More windings= high voltage. bigger wire ALLOWS for more amperage but does not necessarily produce more.

Watts= Volts x Amps.

[RubberSalt]

I've got the crank installed and the cases back together. After assembly, I had a very hard time cranking the engine over (without the jug/piston installed).

Turns out the book needs followed. Hammer the cases together.

Took a block of wood, placed it on the case next to the crank and hammed it, repeated to all sides and other spots of the case near the transmission.
It cranks over 10 times easier now still difficult. Now the motor is in gear and my gear shifter is apparently stripped. I'm going to cut the gap the bolt goes though pen a little more, use a grade 8 bolt to clamp it, then weld it when positioned where I want it.

I made sure it cycled the gears prior to assembly; I just left it in gear :(
I made need to hammer the clutch side around the crank to seat it also. Either way, I'm going back into the clutch side to finish tightening bolts/ installing 1 more spring.

[RubberSalt]

On a side note. I've started my slow build of the KX250 e85 monster top end :)

I've got the jug. I'm going to do some porting on it. I've got a complete KX250 ignition. (I don't think it's any different). And I've got a head being cut for about 230psi comp.

The jug needs recoated and a matching piston. I want a new rod on a crank before I run that build. I'll be doing a custom pipe for it.

[ezmoney1979]

And I've got a head being cut for about 230psi comp.


You got a line on a pile of kick starters or something lol?

[RubberSalt]

Negative lol

I can make a kick start strong lol

What's the failure on these on the kick starts?

[RubberSalt]

I finaly got out to the shop today. Snow started melting off and a path was easy to dig.

I got the top end back on, unfortunatly, the water spigot elbow on the cylinder broke. Apparently it was epoxied back together at one point... I'm using JBweld on it, letting it set up for atleast 24 hours. Then surface, clean, rough, repeat.

[RubberSalt]

I've got the engine back in the frame. Found some stuff I didn't want to see. It looks like the some of the gusseting under the engine was rewelded. The motor mount on the bottom was rewelded. The suspension linking was rewelded. It looks to be well done.

The Kick start didn't return, looks like the clutch cover is coming back off. I'm going to try to fire it up Friday or Saturday. Took work off Friday for a wedding... Wedding starts at 6. Time to get to work :-D

I also purchased me another KX 250 jug with piston. supposedly ported :)

[RubberSalt]

I got The machine up and running. I even took it for a test drive! :-D I ran it through the gears without a chain... They all worked :-D drove with the first 3 gears up and down the street a little bit. Carb started flooding over, started running like crap pretty fast lol... Well i fixed that today :)

Going to try and get out there tomorrow or wednesday and start testing out the lighting set up.

[RubberSalt]

I went for another test drive yesterday. MUCH FASTER!! I was surprised pretty good, for some odd reason, I didn't expect that kind of power lol.

I tried to check the unloaded voltage coming out of the lighting coil. I'd have to say my meter didn't know which way was south. Had spike showing over 150volts at some point lol. I'm going to hook up a high voltage capacitor to try and filter the voltage some, get a more regulated number.

[RubberSalt]

I took the tecate to the trails today. :-D Holy moly it's fast compared to my hopped up YT. I found a few flaws with the trike. My master cylinder starting leaking, so I had no rear brakes. No grab bar yet. and my clutch cable can't be adjusted in right, it's hair to long. I think i can make a spacer that'll make it work.

Down side to the day - Now my machine has mud EVERY WHERE.

Oh, and my rear shock is pretty bad shape i think. part of it came unscrewed and ultra thick grease or goop came out. Never looked into rebuilding shocks or anything. No idea what is what in them.

[barnett468]

Hello

Congratulations, it's alive.

As far as the rear shock having grease come out they are filled with shock oil, if it looks like grease you need to clean and change fluid then re pressurize. Since it leaked there is probably no gas in it should not work well at all.

I spent around 100 hours just trying to get the rear susp too work on those while testing for kawi back then. The 84 had a tendency to bottom over big jumps and drop offs but we ran out of time and test parts so they sold it the way it was. I retested the 85 susp on the 85 prototype for another 100 hours and improved it slightly finally.

It should work pretty well once it is cleaned out and regassed etc.

[RubberSalt]

Update - This old ride... Wouldnt let my buddys 700 raptor get away :) tied. KX Jug is Mean. got a solid 20volts out of the lighting coil without a load. cleaned up rear master cylinder. Bought a spare for a kx80, direct bolt on.

[RubberSalt]

Update - Theres been quite a few little things here and there.

The machine shop was never able to cut my head :(
I've got a raptor 660 shock in the rear, inverted to fit. I did have to grind a tiny tiny part of the swing arm away. Maybe a few mm at most in a spot no bigger than a pencil.
I've got a 72mm KX jug on this that has had some light port work done to it. Cleaned up is all.
KX500 reeds.
38mm PJ carb.
Some pipe, no idea what it is. There is no branding on it.

The CDI has failed, but that OK. I've recreated them.

[RubberSalt]

I took my Tecate out to the dunes this week end.

A few days before the trip, it got a Chinese 38mm PWK air stryker. We spent close to 2 hours rejetting it/tuning it in. I've got a 24:1 oil ratio and using Yamalube 2R. There was a noticeable power improvement over the PJ i had installed.

The Raptor 660 shock is still doing great. I don't know how it compares to stock, but compared to a blow stocker, it's great :-D

Unfortunately, I lost all power and compression in the sand. I got towed back to the camp and I had compression again. I pulled the plug and it was soaked...... in coolant. I cranked it over and got it as dry as I could. It sputtered some. This is the same ported kx top end with the 72mm bore I installed some 4 or so years ago. I guess it's ready for a rebuild.

I've acquired a T4 crank. If I have to split the cases, then I'm installing this crank :)

So far the Chinese 38mm PWK is impressive. It performs better than the legitimate Keihin PJ 38 mm. It uses the same parts in the float bowl as the PJ, this means authenticate parts and jets interchange. I'd recommend this carburetor for the cost, $40.

I had to reweld part of the frame, it cracked. The entire frame was painted, engine stripped down and painted, everything was regreased/lubricated. The swing arm had grove ground down from the chain. I welded the groves up and ground it down smooth. New swing arm bearings installed.

Tuning the chinese PWK wasn't bad, but there was some trouble getting the pilot tuned in. This may have been due to the head gasket going. After the rebuild, I'll retune and provide more information on the jets used.