Big Red down...what gives?

[gostraightahead]

Last year, I rebuilt this duck club extra and it was good as new (with carb rebuild, new battery, all new cables, filters, brakes, new front end etc.) and it was wildly popular on dove hunts and camp get togethers.
Since going through it, it always started on the first hit of the button. It doesn't get run much (obviously) and I was gonna use it to pull my duck boat out last week and it won't run off the choke. It starts pretty quick though.
The gas was bad although I treated it with Startron (the gas was ethanol free to begin with.) I dumped the bad gas and it made no difference. I went to pull the carb off last night and noticed the air box boot was slipped off on the bottom letting all kinds of crap into the intake. So I pulled the carb, disassembled it as usual, cleaned every nook and jet with cleaner and air. Just put it back together, ran the new gas to it and still the same. It appears to be popping out of the carb too. I've never messed with the timing so don't think I need to.
I had the air screw turned out 1.5 turns after the last rebuild and turned it twice out this time. No difference. It seems to run about right at half choke but will crap out with none.
Stumped.

Thanks,
B

[dustrunner]

check for mice "stuff" in the frame were the air is supplied to the air box ......... what year big red ?

[Howdy]

It could be that moisturegot into the engine and the valve got a little rusty. I had this happen on a 350x that I hadn't started in years ( have too many machines ). I had to pull the top end and clean it up. Ran great afterwards.
Howdy

[gostraightahead]

Well, I run it once a month or so and last time I ran it it was good. The frame intake is good and clean but there is one hose that doesn't look to be a vent hose hanging out. It's short and has nowhere to go. It's always just hung out there but now it's suspicious.
It's an '85 btw.
Thanks,
B

[Flyingw]

Did you adjust the split linkage on the cable side of the carb. The popping is a lean condition. If you hit a wall, either send me your carb or I have rebuilt carbs that have been completely gone through and tested.

[gostraightahead]

I took it hunting after the last post and it runs but pretty lousy and only at wot but wouldn't idle worth anything without the choke. So when I got home I took it all apart again and cleaned and blew everything out and put it all back together and it won't even start now. The only thing I'm questioning now is: does the only adjustment there is to do on the outside of the carb and everything else gets seated down kinda snug?
For the record, when I rebuilt the carb last year, it cranked up on the first lick. I hate to cave and buy another carb. Should I buy another rebuild kit? I just can't see the need for it but at the same time I can't get it to hit.
TIA,
Brent

[userj8670]

I had a problem like this when i bought my 350x off the previous owner. It wouldnt run without the choke. Come to find out the idle screw was all the was out. I did everything prior to (rebuilt the carb etc..). I screwed the idle screw in and ran great.

[tri again]

Slow jets are tiny.
Make sure the internal passages are clear too.
Clean jets are only half of the issue.

I actually boiled mine in vinegar water.

anyway, after all that, it turns out I had marginal spark.
I unscrewed the spark plug cap and the plug wire was green corroded so I nipped the last tiny bit off the coil wire to get fresh copper.
funky plugs can throw off the best minds too.

Try clicking on:

service manual

and Please keep us posted.
We all need to know what it is /was.

Thanks

[gostraightahead]

I was going to pull the tank off again last night as I had a minute and when I unscrewed the drain to empty the bowl no fuel came out. I checked the petcock for flow and it works as it should. Sounds stupid simple, but...

[tri again]

I was going to pull the tank off again last night as I had a minute and when I unscrewed the drain to empty the bowl no fuel came out. I checked the petcock for flow and it works as it should. Sounds stupid simple, but...

screen in the petcock?
Gas cap in 'on' position often means nothing.
Try it with the cap loose.
I have a few petcocks that will only allow gas when the tanks is almost full.
The reserve pulls crap off the bottom of the tank and gets plugged.

Sounds like you're getting somewhere.
Pls keep us posted.

[gostraightahead]

Ya, I'm gonna bypass the tank and run some fuel to it tonight. Seems weird. The petcock is new but has acted weird.
B

[Thorpe]

How old is the fuel?? These ethanol blends turn to crap in no time... My 85 ES was out for a 40 mile ride, then 3 weeks later wouldn't run... Drained fuel and put in fresh, popped off and ran like a top.

[gostraightahead]

Actually the last time I filled it up, I used pure gas but it went bad. I dumped it out at the beginning of all this and new gas didn't help so I figured a jet was clogged up. Three tear downs later and it's still doa.
Tonight, I pulled the fuel line off to make sure it was getting gas since the bowl won't fill up and the line made a wooshing sound (with the cap off.) I though I was on to something but still, gas goes to the inlet and hangs up. For the life of me I can't imagine what's jamming it up.
I'm gonna order another rebuild kit and knock it out FWIW.
I've done much more complicated projects than this. It's hilarious.

[kb0nly]

Three weeks for ethanol fuel to go bad?? I would complain to your station...

I have untreated ethanol in a gas jug for months. If it only lasted three weeks i would think there would be a lot of dead cars out there that wouldn't run from sitting. I know older people that drive once a month to get to the bank or the store and they don't have any problems.

Sounds like another ethanol fuel myth to me!

[kb0nly]

Sounds like your inlet or float valve isn't letting fuel down into the bowl then. I would run a small wire through the inlet hole and pull the inlet valve and float and inspect it.

Do you have a filter between the carb and the petcock? I have seen the screens on old petcocks deteriorate and put crap into the carb inlet, with a separate inline fuel filter that stuff would get stopped.

Another thing to try, turn off the petcock and remove the fuel line from the carb, get yourself a long length of new fuel line and put it on the carb, give a blow on the hose, can you blow air through and into the carb?? If not shes plugged up. If you can blow air through then the fuel inlet is ok and the float valve. If you can get a squeeze bottle lid, like the top of a gear lube bottle, that will push into the fuel line and then screw on a bottle of gas. I have an old gear lube bottle that i cleaned out and use as an external fuel reservoir for testing without the tank on or troubleshooting problems like this. The lids also screw on a 20 oz pop bottle, makes a handy fuel IV bottle.. LOL

[Thorpe]

Three weeks for ethanol fuel to go bad?? I would complain to your station...

I have untreated ethanol in a gas jug for months. If it only lasted three weeks i would think there would be a lot of dead cars out there that wouldn't run from sitting. I know older people that drive once a month to get to the bank or the store and they don't have any problems.

Sounds like another ethanol fuel myth to me!

Tank was full for a few weeks before the ride... 3 weeks from riding to next start, it wouldn't run anymore... I do hate ethanol though!

[oscarmayer]

if no fuel to the carb, it's something between the gas itself in the tank and the float.
i would look at taking another small take form anything and putting it ont he seat witht he line connected to the carb tos ee if fuel gets tot he carb, if still no, then the float is stuck or there is something plugging the inlet hole to fill the carb. if yes, your petcock is bad. if your cab has a filter on it, then try cleanign the filter.

[gostraightahead]

No, I mis-typed the details about the ethanol free gas. The last time I put gas in it (before all this) it was ethanol-free gas probably three months ago. I had an inline filter on the fuel line but I threw it out last week because it was pretty dirty. When I get this poor-running situation resolved, I'll put another back on.
I'll try to blow some air through it tonight and see what happens.
thx,
B

[tri again]

No, I mis-typed the details about the ethanol free gas. The last time I put gas in it (before all this) it was ethanol-free gas probably three months ago. I had an inline filter on the fuel line but I threw it out last week because it was pretty dirty. When I get this poor-running situation resolved, I'll put another back on.
I'll try to blow some air through it tonight and see what happens.
thx,
B

For some reason, I use about a foot of expensive clear fuelline (yellow, blue or whatever NAPA has)
and let it loop ddown and back up to the carb.
It started with machines I'm trying to get running.

Rust and crud lays in the bottom of the loop and that line is so cool, it doesn't need clamps so it's very easy to pull off one end, drain the crud and particulates and slip it back on.

Your noflow problem sounds simple but you know by now, there are at least 10 variables.

You'll get it.

[oscarmayer]

any new updates?

[gostraightahead]

Sorry...no not yet. After duck season I'll do another carb rebuild FWIW to see what's going on.
Stand by.
B

[oscarmayer]

when is duck season over?

[djm0242]

Sounds like timing or valve issue to me. The piston comes up to TDC and the intake valve should open, dumping the fuel into the chamber. If the valve is closed or not open all the way then the fuel will come back into the carb.

[gostraightahead]

Duck season FINALLY wrapped up Sunday. Back to life.
I put in a Shindy rebuild kit last night. Battery was dead from cranking it last time. Kicked it two times and it fired right up. Adjusted the idle speed and rode it all over the neighborhood at 10pm. Runs like new. Guess the three times I "cleaned" the carb I didn't do as good a job as I thought I was doing.

All the brass in the carb looked like it had been there for 20 years. Green and mossy. What can I treat this gas with to avoid this? I was using Startron and Lucas Ethanol treatment. Is the reason fuel goes bad so quick the fact that a metal tank sweats? I left last years gas in my duck boat and it fired up first lick back in November and it has a plastic tank.

Two carb things: I didn't replace the needle seat because I couldn't see how to get the old one out without boogering up the aluminum and I had an extra o-ring in the kit that I couldn't find a spot for.
It fires right up and runs good, no lean/rich issue but the throttle is just a little sluggish right off idle. It should be snappier. Is that purely an air/fuel and throttle adjustment?

Thanks,
Brent