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Just-Tri-It
10-15-2012, 08:04 PM
I wanted to rebuild the rear brake cylinder on the Z. It may not be worth rebuilding but if it is I don't know how to finish disassembling it. What's the right method to remove the rest of the internals from the cylinder?
Which tool is best for cleaning up the inside of it?

156018

dustrunner
10-15-2012, 08:08 PM
u got any dynimite ? good luck i had 1 like that and junked it....

Just-Tri-It
10-15-2012, 08:26 PM
u got any dynimite ? good luck i had 1 like that and junked it....

it crossed my mind too, but thought I would ask first.
Thanks

Xowner
10-15-2012, 08:31 PM
compressed air maybe

Flyingw
10-15-2012, 09:06 PM
Compressed air first. If that doesnt work, drill it. Its plastic........ Its plastic. If you arent going to save it, destroy it. It will come out.

badass350x
10-15-2012, 09:46 PM
Soak it in wd40 an put a round dowel into the end an keep tapping on the old piston with a hammer tell it breaks loose works almost every time!

tri again
10-15-2012, 09:49 PM
I heard a rumor that a grease gun can be used to convince
car calipers to give up the innerds.

Edit: ...used to pressurize the piece, much like compressed air without the
'compressability' .


Safety glasses for sure as the pressures must get absurdly high.

Might split the case.

Are new ones hard to find?wicked expensive?

badass350x
10-15-2012, 09:59 PM
If its rusted in there grease will not do it! Wd40 an a little persuasion will get it out most of the time.

hillbilly 200x
10-15-2012, 10:40 PM
i used the compressed air before but for it to work the piston has to be able to move. try the wd40 and dowel alittle bit of heat wont work either.

If the cylinder walls are damage then its NFG. If it looks glazed or has dirt in it then you can try 3m scuffing pads on the end of a drill. I have done this before its worked out really good. Cut a strep about 1''-1/2'' to 2'' by how ever deep the cylinder is and then ad an inch or so. Roll it into a cylinder shape and slowly by hand feed it into the master cylinder once it in there put a drill on it and slowly rotate it and move it up and done it won't take long for you to know weather the cylinder is any good or not. Wash the cylinder out with some carb cleaner or a good brake clean. This will clean out the build up oil's from the 3m pads.

Just-Tri-It
10-16-2012, 02:59 AM
Ok. Thanks for the tips.
I hated to trash it without seeing if it was salvageable and reusable even though it looks pretty rough.

pcs
10-16-2012, 03:18 AM
If its rusted in there grease will not do it! Wd40 an a little persuasion will get it out most of the time.
lube and persuasion work well together :D

Mosh
10-16-2012, 07:12 AM
Really it aint worth saving. Banshee master cylinders are everywhere cheap and a direct replacement. Just reuse your clevis bracket from the z at the brake lever..If you feel you have to save that one a 3 inch drywall screw screwed into the old piston with a power drill will grab the piston then clamp the screw in a vice, then use a block of wood and hammer to knock the housing off the brake piston..then you have to hone it out..Like I said, just get a banshee replacement.

TimSr
10-16-2012, 07:56 AM
Really it aint worth saving. Banshee master cylinders are everywhere cheap and a direct replacement. Just reuse your clevis bracket from the z at the brake lever..If you feel you have to save that one a 3 inch drywall screw screwed into the old piston with a power drill will grab the piston then clamp the screw in a vice, then use a block of wood and hammer to knock the housing off the brake piston..then you have to hone it out..Like I said, just get a banshee replacement.

x2

Warrior master cylinder also - used price is about half the cost of a seal kit.

Just-Tri-It
10-17-2012, 09:05 AM
Ok. Thanks.

Mosh
10-17-2012, 09:08 AM
I have a mint polished rear master if you want to buy it. It has maybe 60 hours on it with no mud or rain use.