My 1984 200es build thread

[ckb7890]

155158155159155160155161155162155163155164155165I just picked this up a few days ago. frame very rusted, plastics not to good of shape, tires shot, handle bars rusted, however I was told it ran about 7-8 years ago just wouldnt idol. motor, tansmission, and rear end all worked great then. did a little checking last night and got good compression in the motor. needing a few parts, and listed them in the classifieds, like key switch and intake, before i spend a lot of money i'm wanting to make sure the motor and all runs. anyway here are a few pic. if i did this right.

[oscarmayer]

if you have the key switch, on my site is a link with photos how to rebuild your key switch and it WILL operate like new when done. :)
also on there are other info and details you may liek to check out as well as factory service manuals.

[oscarmayer]

ok jsut checked. the key rebuilding is not listed, i will fix that tonight. Also if you have windows 7 you right click the links tot he manual you want and select "save target as" i will also update that tonight.

[kb0nly]

If you just want to make sure it runs for now you don't even need the keyswitch. Unplug the key switch from the harness in the headlight, the green and black wires need to be disconnected and left free, thats the kill wire and ground to the ignition switch, you can take the other two wires to the keyswitch and unplug them and then plug the male connector into the female connector that those wires plugged into, this jumpers the output to the light switch so you have power to the lights.

I ran mine like that for a while until i bought a new switch from www.dratv.com

[ckb7890]

if you have the key switch, on my site is a link with photos how to rebuild your key switch and it WILL operate like new when done.
also on there are other info and details you may liek to check out as well as factory service manuals.

oscarmayer: all i have is the wires and the back end of the switch. the portion of the key switch (where the key actually goes) i don't have and a key. thanks for the help and I will definately check out your link for further information. and i only have windows xp never upgraded to new computer yet.

[ckb7890]

kb0nly, i will try to jump the wires over tonight and see if i can get fire. that is what i was wanting to make sure of, which wires to cross in order to elimante the switch aand not fry any electrical componets just to see if the motor will actually fire off. if i can get spark i believe she will run. after putting a little penetrating oil in the cylinder and letting it soak for a few ram a compression check at 165 so that showed some promise. if she fires up then its on.:D

Thanks for the input guys greatly appreciated 3WW rules

[kb0nly]

You don't need to jumper anything for spark, just unplug the four wires to whats left of your switch and leave them disconnected. The switch just jumpers the green and black wires together in the off position to kill the ignition. When in the on position it opens up the green/black wires and connects the other two wires together to run power to the light switch to run the lights.

The black and green wires from the switch are the male bullet connectors, just unplug them from the connectors they are plugged into in the headlight. If you want to jumper the power for the lights you will see that one of the wires is a male and the other is a female, so you can take the two wires the plugged into and just plug those together and now the switch is totally out of the circuit without cutting or splicing anything. I ran mine like that for a couple months and just used the kill switch on the handlebar control to shut it off.

If you don't get any spark disconnect the black wire to the handlebar control, that kill switch gets rusty and stuck and keeps the ignition shorted out as well, i had to take mine apart and clean everything and lubricate it.

[ckb7890]

Thanks for the help guys. She fired right of first spin with the starter. The plastic or rubber coating around the intake if its
Cracked do I need a new one? Looks like it forms two pieces together would this be correct?

[kb0nly]

If its cracked enough to get an air leak you will have to replace it, if its already cracked but not leaking your on borrowed time, it will leak eventually. The problem you will have is it will have an erratic idle and will be running lean because of the extra air its able to suck in, not to mention its sucking in unfiltered air and will be drawing in dust and dirt to the engine as well. Its basically a cast rubber piece with a metal piece embedded in each end for mounting, think of hose with two fittings, so if it splits in the center where its just rubber it will leak.

You can wrap it in tape until you find a replacement while working on it, i have wrapped them in a couple layers of lined splicing tape, also known as self amalgamating tape used for waterproofing electrical connections its 3m Temflex 2155, followed by a couple layers of a good electrical tape, i always use 3m Super 33+. That will at least seal it up to keep it running while you run through working on it and looking for a replacement.

I think someone mentioned on here recently that the 200's can use a carb mount/intake from a newer model 4 wheeler thats still available. I will have to search and see if i can find that.

So it ran huh? Awesome! Did you clean the carb or did she run like crap? Just curious..

[ckb7890]

Yeah ran pretty good for not being cranked for about 10 years or so. I will have to rebuild the carb it getting soaked as we speak. the throttle cable was stuck inside the carb and the choke butterfly is stuck but once soaked a little while and with a rebuild kit should get it back to working. As far as the intake upon further review last night its cracked all the way through. I can see where the two pieces are formed together I got to looking at it a little better last night and it will need to be replaced. I'm in the process of looking for one now.

Again thanks for the tip on the wiring, figure it out put a fresh battery in it shot a little B-12 into the intake and fired right up. In time I will be posting up for some parts, just got to let my bank catch up again.

I will keep updating as prgress goes. Thanks

[kb0nly]

You can usually find quite a few of the intakes on eBay, i haven't been able to find that post where another member on here mentioned finding a suitable substitute. If the carb gives you too much trouble for about $25-$30 you can get a brand new complete carb off ebay. I ended up replacing mine after putting in a rebuild kit and the slide still had too much slop in it, just worn from use, and it wouldn't idle quite right.

[oscarmayer]

i have seen guys cut the robber away and use silicone hose (liek they use for turbo piping connectors) to make a connector in between and use hose clamps. Thye advantage to this is, if your removign the air box and running with an open filter, you just need to an eternal screen peice for the filter to stoo the big stuff and you can mvoe the carb further back away from the engine. this keeps it cooler and allows for easier access to the carb for tuning purposes.

[ckb7890]

Hats off to both you guys for the help. Nice idea there oscarmayer on the intake, that would work really well. Now that at least I know what I have with the bike I'm going to go ahead and get it running. It will take a little time and a lot more parts, but for know I'm just going to get it where its rideble. I forgot to mention at the beginning of the thread, this bike was sitting under a tree of an old friend of me and my brothers. he was cooking a brisket an invited me and the wife and my brother and his girlfriend to come eat. Well walked around his building and low and behold there she sat. I asked him what was wrong with it he said as I mentioned above its been sitting for 7-8 years or longer, back then ran just wouldnt idol. I asked him what he was going to do with it he said he has his 250es and didnt want it, I asked how much, he said load it up and take it if you want. So as of now with no money invested and motor seeming to be solid, tranny and rear end seems to work properly, so I'm excited. Every where I read on 3WW they all said when you aquire one its addictive and that holds to be true. This is the second of what is starting to become a fleet.

[kb0nly]

Nice deal on it... Free is my favorite deal.. LOL

Make sure before you do ride it around you put all new fluids in and grease everything good. Don't forget that rear end, the 200ES rear's are like a car, they are filled with gear lube so drain it and flush it a bit with fresh fluid then refill, its all in the manual, otherwise after sitting that long your first ride might be your last before rebuilding the rear end.

Any more questions be sure to ask!

[ckb7890]

Yes, thanks for the heads up, that is already being figured. I did the same when I bought my 250r, made sure all fluids were flushed out and replaced with new before any riding.

[ckb7890]

Update, got new carb and insulator on the other day had a little issue figuring out why i wasnt getting any fire to the plug mainly just rusted connections. anyway fired right up no smoke runs like a dream idols great. changed the rear end oil and motor oil looks like it will be a great bike. now just need a gas tank and a front tire. i have looked on ebay just wondering if anyone might have either of the two. let me know what you got. thanks