PDA

View Full Version : Got A New 110!



Gearheadtom
09-19-2012, 03:02 PM
I picked up a Honda 1982 110 yesterday for $80. The motor wouldn't turn more than a full turn because the cam timing was way off, and after fixing that it had no compression. Figured a bent valve from the timing being off, but it was just a bunch crud under the exhaust valve. Clean and lapped the valves, then cleaned the carb and had it running.
Compression is low and it smokes so I'm going to put in some new rings. The airbox isn't hooked up, and it and the tank look like they're off a newer 110. It needs a pull start, cdi box (I stole the one from my 185 for now), and axel bearings front and rear. The seat is real rough, but there's not a crack in the fenders. Not to bad a deal I don't think.

Here's some pics:

Gearheadtom
09-19-2012, 07:57 PM
Picked up some used parts from someone local. Got the pull start, CDI box, and a good rear sprocket (the one on it now is broke), for $70.

thestud25
09-19-2012, 08:36 PM
Looks like a decent deal to me.

mollie8000
09-19-2012, 08:39 PM
live on 110

MRSOUND
09-19-2012, 09:00 PM
The racks alone are worth what you payed for the whole machine

Gearheadtom
09-19-2012, 09:32 PM
The racks alone are worth what you payed for the whole machine

That's kinda what I was thinking, with the racks, and the uncracked fenders.

I think I know what at least partialy caused the chain to break. The chain was super tight (even with the horrible rear bearings), I figure they took a link out to tighten an old streched chain, and with the super tight chain they felt no need for the chain tensioner, which I'm also missing.

atc350xer
09-19-2012, 11:03 PM
Aren't those gold rims from a blue '83 Christmas special? Wait... are they gold, or just dirty? Good score for the money.

Gearheadtom
09-21-2012, 08:32 PM
I tried changing the rear sproket tonight, and after fighting with many rusted bolt/nuts, I finaly got it apart, just to find out that the sprocket that I got as a replacement is from a newer 110, I think. At least I'm not really out anything, the guy threw it in with other parts I bought from him. I ordered new rings last night, and I guess now I'm going to order the chain tensioner and sprocket tomorrow, I guess it's going to have to stay apart for 2 weeks.

I got some pics of the broken sprocket. I would just weld it back together, but there's pieces of the sprocket that are broke and gone.

Gearheadtom
09-30-2012, 10:14 PM
Got a bit more work done on this thing. I Got the new rear bearings in the carrier after fixing two holes in it. Just used a couple pieces of tin and JB Weld. It's not really for strengh, but more to keep the mud and water out.
I've got a leak in the tank fixed with more JB Weld, just some old patch material had fallen off, and now I've got some rust remover in the tank (Evaporust) to clean up some of the rust in the tank. There's just a bit of very light surface rust on the sides, and the only real bad rust is down at each lower back corner, where they all rust out.
It probably won't be another week or more until I get my parts in and get it together and driving again.

Gearheadtom
10-03-2012, 08:42 PM
I'm in need of another rear axle now. Mine is wore from I guess the bearings seizing and spinning on the axle, so now I've still got play with new bearings. Also the threads for the nut that hold the hub on are stripped out on one side. If I can't find one local, I know a guy with all the proper tools that can probably fix the axle.

tri again
10-04-2012, 04:03 AM
I'm in need of another rear axle now. Mine is wore from I guess the bearings seizing and spinning on the axle, so now I've still got play with new bearings. Also the threads for the nut that hold the hub on are stripped out on one side. If I can't find one local, I know a guy with all the proper tools that can probably fix the axle.
I think I have one that somebody simply threaded it down to the next smaller size.

Tacky as heck but super stable, fat threads and it holds tight.

Gearheadtom
10-04-2012, 05:50 AM
I think I have one that somebody simply threaded it down to the next smaller size.

Tacky as heck but super stable, fat threads and it holds tight.

If the threads were the only problem, that's probably what I'd do.

Gearheadtom
10-04-2012, 07:35 PM
I'm putting my new rings in the motor now. Of the two compression rings, one is a solid color, and one has a silver band on the outer edge. Which one is the top one?

Edit: I did some searching, and from what I could find the one with the silver is the top one, and the darker color one goes below it.

Gearheadtom
10-07-2012, 10:41 PM
I got this thing back together and got it running. It doesn't smoke anymore, and has better compression. I think I need a carb now tho, it idles like I've seen 200's idle when the slide is wore. I've checked for air leaks, and found and fixed one, but it still will idle high, the idle low and die. Any way to fix this?

Gearheadtom
10-09-2012, 08:27 PM
I've been having trouble getting this thing running right, I know there's nothing I can really do about the idle, but I can't seem to get it to rev either. It's fine in neutral, but when the motor is under load (it's alright on level ground) it doesn't want to rev past 1/2 throttle. The problem is better when I set the needle clip to the richest position. Would the fact that I don't have a filter or air box hooked up cause this? I knew that wouldn't help, but I figured the richest needle position would compensate.
Any suggestions?

tblumer
10-10-2012, 06:59 AM
Try a bigger pilot jet if you arent running an air filter

Gearheadtom
10-10-2012, 06:18 PM
Try a bigger pilot jet if you arent running an air filter

I ended up getting a carb today from 125 from a buddy, I'll clean that then put in on, and I still will end up using a pod filter, or getting a stock air box.

Gearheadtom
10-14-2012, 07:17 PM
I got that 125 carb put on. I'm guessing a stock 125 carb has a bigger main jet because now it'll rev good and give decent power, but it sounds and acts like it's running rich, and that's at about 5* celcius with no air box. It doesn't really want to idle, but when it will idle it's a lot more consistent now, so I figure when I get an air box hooked up, and the carb jetted right I'll run perfect.
I also got a good set of rear fenders with a mint seat from a 125 from the same guy I got the carb from, they were payment for fixing his 200s.

Gearheadtom
10-16-2012, 05:56 PM
So I'm wondering what my best option for a filter would be. I can get a pod filter off ebay pretty cheap, but I was thinking a stock air box might be a better option in the long run.
What does everyone else think?

oscarmayer
10-16-2012, 06:09 PM
yea get a stock style filter and your set.

Gearheadtom
10-16-2012, 06:18 PM
yea get a stock style filter and your set.

Okay, thanks

Anyone got an air box they'd sell?

Gearheadtom
10-31-2012, 09:03 PM
A little update on the 110. I've got an airbox on it's way, and I bought a parts frame with a good rear axel and a few other parts I needed for $20. After fighting with the drum on the parts frame, I got it apart, and got the bike together, and now I've got no play in the rear axel. I figured out why some of the brake parts were missing, the "custom" exhaust was in the way, so they were removed.
So I'm looking now for a good exhaust, does the exhaust from a newer style 110/125's fit the older style 110's?

Gearheadtom
11-07-2012, 06:52 PM
Got the new air box on, and put all the stock jets from the 110 carb into the 125 replacement carb, and it ran like crud, then I put the bigger 125 jets back into the carb and it didn't run much better. Mainly all it does is dies at 3/4 throttle and above. Tried adjusting the needle richer and leaner, and it runs the best when it's in the richest position. So I know it's to lean, and trying with the choke half on helped as well.
So, the air box seems to make it run leaner... doesn't make sence.
Would the 125 and 110 carb have the same bore size? They look the same, never measured it tho. I tried a new plug aswell.
Exahaust isn't stock, it's some cobbled up rig from the previous owner, but if anything it's more restrictive than the stock exhaust.

Anyone have any other suggestions?

Edit: The 125 jets were #95 main (I think), and #38 pilot, and the 110 carb had #82 main (I think), and #35 pilot.
Edit 2: I never checked the timing advancer to make sure it's moving smoothly, think that might be a problem?

Gearheadtom
11-09-2012, 12:38 AM
Checked the timing advancer today, and it moves fine, and advanced the timing a bit too hoping that would help, but it still runs the same. I'll pull the carb apart tomorrow and double check that it's clean, and make sure it's getting good fuel flow. Whenever I get it running better I'll use a timing light and get the timing set spot on.