Just picked up beater 225dx,need some advice

[redskinman]

I picked this up for 250 bucks.Dont want to sink a bunch of money into it,its just something to ride when its too muddy to ride my other ride.The previous owners kid spray painted it,paint does match my truck though,lol.
It looks like its missing the boot inside airbox that attaches to filter,anyone got one for sale? Also on right side of engine,theres a bolt with the words increase and decrease,whats that for? Its automatic but it seems like clutch is slipping,is there a way to adjust it?
What weight oil goes in the shaft drive?
thanks
153954

[trizilla]

80w90 in the rear end..... the bolt on the right cover is to adjust the clutch. loosen lock nut, back out center adjusting screw until slight resistance is felt, turn back in 1/4 turn and tighten locknut. i dont have a filter cage but i bet ebay or your local yamaha dealer does.

[dustrunner]

the increase and decrease is the clutch adjustment. turn it to increase till you get the clutch working to your liking... honda's use 80 w - 90 shaft oil... good luck...

[redskinman]

Thanks for replies
It's a Yamaha not Honda but that's 2 answers with the same weight so I guess that's what I'll go with

[MRSOUND]

153981Are you talking about #6 on the drawing? If so I have one. Actually I have a the whole airbox and hoses with the exception of the to the carb. Let me know what you need.

[redskinman]

153981Are you talking about #6 on the drawing? If so I have one. Actually I have a the whole airbox and hoses with the exception of the to the carb. Let me know what you need.

Yeah,#6 looks like the right part.Inside the airbox theres no hose connecting to the filter.How much do you want for it shipped to 77345?
thanks

[MRSOUND]

$12 shipped. Let me know.

[dougspcs]

Sorry to tell you this but no amount of adjusting will stop the clutch slip..the adjuster just sets the auto-clutch disengagement to ensure your shifting is smooth.

If its slipping on take off, it's worn out. This is the 1st thing I check when buying a Yamaha and test riding. If it doesn't have a nice crisp engagement when I start in 1st and between the gears(especially 4-5) then I know it needs clutches..

The Yamaha's seem to have a bit lighter duty clutch system than the Honda machines..several I have road tested were bad, mostly left those ones on the curb. The Honda rule seems to be if the clutches are toast, so is the engine..at least that is my experience.

[redskinman]

$12 shipped. Let me know.
PM sent
Just to make sure,there should be a hose that goes inside the airbox that goes from front of airbox to reach filter thats sitting in the rear of airbox? In that pic,part 6 also looks like it might possibly slide inside the filter,if thats the case I dont need that part

[redskinman]

Sorry to tell you this but no amount of adjusting will stop the clutch slip..the adjuster just sets the auto-clutch disengagement to ensure your shifting is smooth.

If its slipping on take off, it's worn out. This is the 1st thing I check when buying a Yamaha and test riding. If it doesn't have a nice crisp engagement when I start in 1st and between the gears(especially 4-5) then I know it needs clutches..

The Yamaha's seem to have a bit lighter duty clutch system than the Honda machines..several I have road tested were bad, mostly left those ones on the curb. The Honda rule seems to be if the clutches are toast, so is the engine..at least that is my experience.

Its not slipping on takeoff,but in 1st and 2nd gear after going a little ways it feels like it shifts into a higher gear,kinda like an overdrive.Unless you just punch it from takeoff,then I dont think it does it

[MRSOUND]

PM sent
Just to make sure,there should be a hose that goes inside the airbox that goes from front of airbox to reach filter thats sitting in the rear of airbox? In that pic,part 6 also looks like it might possibly slide inside the filter,if thats the case I dont need that part

Part #6 is spark aresster/element holder. I don't have a "hose" that goes from the front to the back. Can you identify it in the part drawing? At a loss here now.

[redskinman]

Part #6 is spark aresster/element holder. I don't have a "hose" that goes from the front to the back. Can you identify it in the part drawing? At a loss here now.

I dont see that part in the drawing,maybe it doesnt have one? Any other bike ive had the filter just didnt lay in the box,it was attached to something.My airbox is ripped,so I pulled it open and took pic.Where red line is,seems like there should be a hose there that goes from the front of airbox{where hose from carb meets airbox}that attaches to filter

[MRSOUND]

I dont see that part in the drawing,maybe it doesnt have one? Any other bike ive had the filter just didnt lay in the box,it was attached to something.My airbox is ripped,so I pulled it open and took pic.Where red line is,seems like there should be a hose there that goes from the front of airbox{where hose from carb meets airbox}that attaches to filter

I'm thinking when the element holder goes into the hole it seals that chamber negating the need for a hose. I don't know this for sure though. I had parted one one of these out that was in rough shape but never had it running. Only Yammie I ever had so I'm far from an expert. Maybe someone else can chime in that is more knowledgeable on these? Like I said I have the whole assembly if your box is now torn.

[redskinman]

I'm thinking when the element holder goes into the hole it seals that chamber negating the need for a hose. I don't know this for sure though. I had parted one one of these out that was in rough shape but never had it running. Only Yammie I ever had so I'm far from an expert. Maybe someone else can chime in that is more knowledgeable on these? Like I said I have the whole assembly if your box is now torn.

Yeah I was guessing the same thing
How much for the box shipped?
Thanks

[dougspcs]

You might get lucky and find that goes away after doing an oil change..maybe the PO used oil with a friction modifier or some other additive.

But most likely the secondary clutches are worn..the primary clutch is the more expensive to replace and usually causes slip on take off.

Try an oil change and adjust like the guys suggest..if it isn't too bad just ride it. My brothers quad has the 250cc Yamaha engine which is pretty much identical to yours..his clutches have been slipping a bit for a year but then he doesn't mud bog which will toast worn clutches pretty fast!

Keep the oil clean and at proper level you should be able to stretch out the repairs..maybe never depending on how you ride it.

[redskinman]

You might get lucky and find that goes away after doing an oil change..maybe the PO used oil with a friction modifier or some other additive.

But most likely the secondary clutches are worn..the primary clutch is the more expensive to replace and usually causes slip on take off.

Try an oil change and adjust like the guys suggest..if it isn't too bad just ride it. My brothers quad has the 250cc Yamaha engine which is pretty much identical to yours..his clutches have been slipping a bit for a year but then he doesn't mud bog which will toast worn clutches pretty fast!

Keep the oil clean and at proper level you should be able to stretch out the repairs..maybe never depending on how you ride it.

Ok thanks
Manual says use 20w 40
Think 10w40 would be ok?

[redskinman]

the oil drain bolt is toast,it was too rounded off to get socket on.Tried with vise grips to get it off but its not buding,its tight as trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro.Im just gonna have to drain as much as possible out of the other side where the oil filter goes

[dougspcs]

Ok thanks
Manual says use 20w 40
Think 10w40 would be ok?

10w40 is recommended..


the oil drain bolt is toast,it was too rounded off to get socket on.Tried with vise grips to get it off but its not buding,its tight as trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro.Im just gonna have to drain as much as possible out of the other side where the oil filter goes

Could also try removing the oil fill cap and lay the machine on it's side and drain it into a pan..you'll get most of it that way.

[badass350x]

the oil drain bolt is toast,it was too rounded off to get socket on.Tried with vise grips to get it off but its not buding,its tight as trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro.Im just gonna have to drain as much as possible out of the other side where the oil filter goes

Did you try tapping on a standard socket and removing with a little heat?

[redskinman]

Did you try tapping on a standard socket and removing with a little heat?

Its too messed up for standard socket.I did try heat,just a little propane torch,just the kind you buy at walamrt in the small can and you just turn on and light.Heated it up for a couple minutes,no luck.Probably doesnt get hot enough.Its sucks too,theres a drip coming from that bolt,as tight as it is I dont see how its leaking unless its got a missing O ring or something.Plus I bet theres a lot of gunk there that needs to come out.I layed it on its side and drained a lot out of oilfilter hole.Ive never seen an oil filter this bad,there was no filter material left to it!

[badass350x]

If you have a welder and can get to it? try and weld a cut off head from a good bolt an then back it out. Just dont over heat and destort your cases or burn the gaskets! Remove it while its still warm.

[muthey]

If I'm not mistaken the drain plug is aluminum, like it is on mine and I have the same issue other than no drip, one of these days I will repair mine but at the moment I drain it from the filter, so unless you have access to a tig welding wont do you any good. when I actually go after mine I will let you know how I do it I just haven't decided my plan of action yet as it has large threads and is a flange type bolt.

[redskinman]

If I'm not mistaken the drain plug is aluminum, like it is on mine and I have the same issue other than no drip, one of these days I will repair mine but at the moment I drain it from the filter, so unless you have access to a tig welding wont do you any good. when I actually go after mine I will let you know how I do it I just haven't decided my plan of action yet as it has large threads and is a flange type bolt.

Yep you are correct that's how it is
Yeah I drained mine out thru filter hole also

[muthey]

Light heat and a chisel on the outside edge and it should come off for you, that's what I plan for mine, as it will take a 1' drill bit rough estimate to drill it out. I have a couple of other yammi's with the same plug but not seized up on them is how I know the hole is large. Other wise I will be using a cut off wheel to notch it to make a way to get to it with an air drive, or when I go through and pull the motor to rebuild it I will split the cases there and work on it then.

[badass350x]

Was thinking it could be aluminum but wasn't sure! Might have been cross threaded when they put it in last.

[muthey]

well I just had to redo my top end and flipped the trike upside down and got the drain bolt loose with a 9inch long chisel, it worked great, so I recommend you trying it. I found out why my drain bolt was stuck at some point they tightened it with debris in there and one of the threads got a nick in it which was holding the whole works up. So I whipped out my needle files and it cleaned right up now it works great.

[redskinman]

Havent had time to mess with it,seems like its developed another problem.As you know I changed oil n filter,changed fuel filter,sealed airbox and installed new airfilter.It sat a week before i got back to it.Now its very hard to start,once getting it started its spittering and sputtering for a few seconds till it finally gets going.After riding it down the street a couple times,it wont stay idling and shuts off.It will start back up but starts sputtering again.
It seems like it didnt like any maintenance being done to it,lol
I rode it for 20 minutes before buying it and experienced none of this.

[muthey]

Did you oil the air filter, some of them were oiled filters and some were dry filters, your carb jetting will vary between the two. it also kinda reminds me of a carb flooding out issue as well.

[redskinman]

Did you oil the air filter, some of them were oiled filters and some were dry filters, your carb jetting will vary between the two. it also kinda reminds me of a carb flooding out issue as well.

Yes I oiled the filter,was going to try removing it and see how it responded.I just assumed filter was sposed to be oiled,since old one fell apaert in my hands i dont know how it was before

[dougspcs]

I rode it for 20 minutes before buying it and experienced none of this.

But then you had the machine on it's side draining oil right.??.

All the sediment that was nicely settle down in the bottom of the tank and carb bowl are all stirred up. Probably up in the carb jets and having a party!

Drain, refill tank, carb re&re, and cleaning should make it right!

[redskinman]

But then you had the machine on it's side draining oil right.??.

All the sediment that was nicely settle down in the bottom of the tank and carb bowl are all stirred up. Probably up in the carb jets and having a party!

Drain, refill tank, carb re&re, and cleaning should make it right!

That's a good point
Carb is next to check

[Afrothunderkat]

I have a bunch of 225dx/dr parts. If you need anything, let me know.

[redskinman]

I have a bunch of 225dx/dr parts. If you need anything, let me know.

The front brake cable just snapped,do you have one of those?
thanks

[Afrothunderkat]

The front brake cable just snapped,do you have one of those?
thanks

I have 2, both are stretched and worn. Would be better to buy new off ebay.

[Chazz of Blades]

Could be worse, I had one that the secondary clutch was stuck disengaged.

It literally thought it had a manual clutch in that if you touched the rear brakes it'd stall, as soon as you put it in gear it wanted to go, or stall. If you slowed down too much in gear, yep, it'd stall. And if you ever somehow managed to start it in gear(yes, this actually happened once), you'd have to catch it.


What was fun was whenever I'd be in an open, flat area(once again, hills with too little throttle means more rope pulling) I'd pop it in gear, kick my legs back, and relax while the thing creeped along at 5mph. Called it YCC, Yamaha Cruise Control. Unless you found a tiny, insignificant, measly grade in the land, then you guessed it. Damn thing would stall. Had to be careful of upshifting too early too, or it'd stall.

Luckily it pull started like a charm.....................

Kept that thing for a whole two weeks.

[Afrothunderkat]

Could be worse, I had one that the secondary clutch was stuck disengaged.

It literally thought it had a manual clutch in that if you touched the rear brakes it'd stall, as soon as you put it in gear it wanted to go, or stall. If you slowed down too much in gear, yep, it'd stall. And if you ever somehow managed to start it in gear(yes, this actually happened once), you'd have to catch it.


Mine was the same way. If you hold the shifter up, you can actually slowly let it down, and it will act as a manual clutch. Does not work so well on my buddis 250sx. His kinda just BANG its in gear. My DX had a real "loose" gearbox. Shifted fine, just had to move the lever quite a bit up or down. Either way was fun to do spool it up and let the shifter down for launches!