Getting my Honda 110 running again and I have questions.

[LonesomeTriZ]

I am glad the buyers I had for this 110 backed out. Now I am trying to get it going but I have very little experience with Hondas.

Here it is on the jack and partially torn down.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06795.jpg

Here is the data plate to help with my questions.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06799.jpg

Does all the electronics appear to be correct and in place like they should be?
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06802.jpg

What is this bracket for?
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06800.jpg

Something tells me this return spring should not be hooked to the skid plate. Where is it supposed to hook to?
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06801.jpg

What does the missing neutral lever look like and where can I find one?
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06798.jpg

I accidently pushed one of the tabs in that secure the fuel cap to the tank. How to I disassemble the cap so I can repair the internals?
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06806.jpg

The cord on the pull start assembly broke. I have a pull start from a Kawi that I am gutting so I can use the rope.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06796.jpg

If I pop that recoil spring out am I going to regret it? I just want to clean up the inside of the housing. The little tabs that catch and spin the engine have only one return spring. There are three tabs, is there supposed to be another one or two? What kind of grease should I use on the recoil spring?
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06803.jpg

The carb was a disaster. Some one broke the petcock and tried to “repair” it with RVT and zip ties. That RVT crap is all in side the carb as well. There is no saving it. I was told that there are China knock offs on Evilbay for $30. Have any of you bought them? How are they? Are they reliable?
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06797.jpg

[3wheelrider]

Wiring/electronics looks like it should-but the coil wire looks like automotive style braid (no copper core strand), the little black bracket thing is for the throttle cable-(the cable is routed wrong!), the brake spring is the wrong one (it should be real short & it should hook directly under from where it hooks from the pedal), fuel cap is junk, leave the pullstart spring alone! Or you'll be sorry.....(& put a NEW rope), pullstart is missing 2 of the little curvy wire lookin things, chinese knock-off carbs are hit & miss (more miss) IMO no good

[LonesomeTriZ]

Can I get that curvy spring seperate? Also, I know this trike ran some time before I bought it. But I now have some concerns. It turns over a little too easy with I spin theflywheel by hand. Is that normal?

[LonesomeTriZ]

Oh, and I agree with the plug wire. I figured it was not OEM when I saw the Accel 8MM on it. Would that be an issue? I would think it is not a big deal.

[LonesomeTriZ]

I forgot, can some one post a photograph of what the air filter looks like.

[kb0nly]

The repo carbs are pretty good actually, i have one on my 84 200ES and i know a few others running them on 125's which is like yours with the built-in petcock, as well as some 185 owners that have those repo carbs. I wouldn't knock them till you try one.

Leave that recoil spring alone! Go get some new rope. Even your local hardware store should have pull start rope for fixing lawnmowers, only like $5 tops for some rope. You put that old rope on there and you will regret it when you have to do it all over again. As for the missing parts in the recoil you will have to dig around, i know www.dratv.com sells a rebuild kit for these recoils but its spendy and is all the internal parts for the recoil in a kit. You should check his site and maybe send him an email, he has a lot of the other 110 parts you might end up needing along the way as well.

Brake spring not right... And you better open up the rear brake because usually when i see someone with a 110/125 with a different spring like that they are trying to get the brake to return because the return spring in the brake drum housing on the shaft broke. There is three springs in there, one that helps the shaft that spreads the brake return and two springs across the brake shoes. Usually when they won't return and drag its the coil spring on the shaft that broke and then it gets rigged with an extra strong spring like yours. I have seen that a couple times now.

Your sunk on the gas cap... And unfortunately they are spendy. If your lucky you can find a cheap used one off eBay, but they usually average a good amount of money.

[LonesomeTriZ]

Well, that was a mixture of good and bad news. I appreciate it.

[3wheelrider]

I forgot: The neutral lever is actually just an indicator that points to the gear selected or neutral. Its just a small white round plastic piece with a red stripe for indication- its not really needed -just nice to have. It turns over easy: compression check & check valve adjustment if in doubt- (these motors do turn over easy tho)-you may or may not have an issue here. The plug wire does work but is totally different materials vs. OEM (replace it anyway). If you want to know what the filter looks like-look at the manual or go on ebay to see a pic.......

[LonesomeTriZ]

I was going to ask about valve adjustment once I got that far.

[kb0nly]

Get the manual for it and that should answer a lot of questions as well.

Sorry for the mix of good and bad news but thats how it goes, lol. They do pull over easy, i agree with that, but if you have a gauge do a compression test as described in the service manual.

[LonesomeTriZ]

I use to have a gauge for it but it stopped working. I am thinking I should do a compression check before I spend the money on a new carb.

[LonesomeTriZ]

I could not get the manual links to work.

[pipeline triker]

If it has been sitting along time a little oil in the plug hole will do wonders, rings are dry from sitting. As far as the shift indicater and the rewind parts your Honda dealer would probally be your best bet. By the time you pay shipping and handling on thos small parts it won't be worth it. I just redid an 84 110 that had been stored away since 87, my carb needed love also. Try a chinese carb, they sell thousands of them can not all be bad. I am going to order some for the 90's and 110's also as my factory parts stash for them is dwindling. DO NOT REUSE A USED ROPE. Those 110's are great rides when done you will love it.

[LonesomeTriZ]

Thanks, I ma looking forward to taking my sone out on this thing. I think he will like it. If I do have to end up going into the top end, are there common issues I should look for?

[KI4UJO]

Well, Just look for obvious damage. Most likely, you will at least need a hone and rings, possibly an overbore. As for the chinese carbs, I've got one on my 110, and it does fine.

[LonesomeTriZ]

I was not sure if there was anything different about these engines because they lay flat. unlike the Yamis I am used to.

[kb0nly]

Click on the link in my signature below, that will take you to a new webpage where you can find the service manuals. The board seems to hyperlink whenever you type manuals and that link doesn't always work.

[LonesomeTriZ]

Perfect, thanks.

[LonesomeTriZ]

The 110 manuals stop at 82, mine is an 84. Does that matter?

[KI4UJO]

The 84 CDI on the BR is different, but not sure on the 110. I'll check, and get back to you.

[KI4UJO]

Ok, the 84 CDI is different for the 110 as well. KB0NLY has a thread on the 84BR CDI that should apply to this as well.

[LonesomeTriZ]

It turns out the air filter is different on the 84 model as well.

If any one has these parts I am interested in purchasing them:

Fuel tank isolator. The round ones up next to the triple tee.
Two return spings for the pull start recoil assembly.
Air filter.
The bracket that holds the air filter at the rear of the box.
The little nutral thing.
Brake lever that mountson the handle bar.

I have no problem with any of these parts being used. As long as they are in good shape and work fine that is.

[H2Sbass]

You should really check out dratv.com. Best place I've found for 90/110 stuff. Dealing with the large recoil spring is no problem at all. I take mine out whenever I clean the recoil, which is alot seeing as I use my 110 as a U-boat lol.

[LonesomeTriZ]

I have, I plan to get what I need from them if no one else has them.

[LonesomeTriZ]

New carb came in and I made the gaskets I needed. Now I just have to replace the return springs in the recoil and the mechanical stuff should be done. Ialos pulled the head light and straightened the medal frame. I mades sure both lights worked and lubed all the cables. I plan to take the what ever it isthey used to make the shade tree mud flaps, cut it down, and make decent looking and functional mud flaps. Speaking of which, can some post photographs fo what stock mud guard are suppose to look like installed?

[LonesomeTriZ]

This is the current mud flap.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/Honda2.jpg

[LonesomeTriZ]

Does any one know the gap for the spark plug?

[LonesomeTriZ]

The new carb looks great. I found a way to fix the rubber bushing problem with the tank. And, I found an isolator that wrks on th front of the tank. I also made a bracket that hold the air filter in place. Now all I need is an air filter and the return springs for the recoil. I tried Dr. ATV but they do not return phone calls or emails.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06868.jpg
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06867.jpg
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af258/Lonesome00/DSC06866.jpg

[LonesomeTriZ]

I got the new filter and return springs in the other day. I got a Uni filter so I wasted time making that little bracket for the stock filter. That damn Honda recoil is giving me hell though.