How to free up a rusted solid engine? pics included

[ailll1]

Hi all,
Just bought a 200x with a stripped kickstart. A couple other engines came with it. One of these is an xr200 6 speed engine. I'm willing to do the 6 speed swap but I cant remove the head to split the cases as the piston is rusted solid.
Do any of you guys have trick on how to free it up?
And, did xr engine had issues with kickstart aswell?
EDIT: it's soaking in pb blaster right now
Thank alot!
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[WIkid500]

Yeah PB blast or Kroil, for a month and a wooden block to loosen the piston. Whatever you do plan on putting a rod bearing in it. If you don't it will destroy the crank, rod, cases, cylinder, and new piston. Ask me how I know...

[350xx]

Just keep soakin her with pb blaster and then use a block of wood to hit the piston down.

[Dirtcrasher]

Fill up a container with diesel fuel, let it sit; And then work at it for awhile.

The big lower pin and the tranny bearings may be junk. Who knows until you separate the cases

Gears / clutch may be fine..............

EDIT - KROIL kicks ASSSS on stuff like this.

[chrisand4]

PB blaster is good. I have also used a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone to free rusted parts, it works very well.

[whitetail hunter]

that don't look that bad. kroll is probably the quickest, but pb blaster works to. soak it a couple of days, i personaly would remove cover from flywheel side and rock flywheel back and forth easily. that way you don't damage crank or rod. just remeber don't try to run the piston up any more than you have too.

[ailll1]

Alright! thanks guy!
I'm not really worried about bottom end bearing as I wont reuse them anyways neither the cylinder.
I found an interresting link on penetrating oils while surfing on the net: http://forums.redflagdeals.com/where-find-kroil-876253/
At post #9 theres a good comparaison between most popular oils. I might just try acetone + ATF if pb blaster doesnt work. Seems pretty legit.

[Big Mike]

I also agree with Kroil, fill the cylinder up and let it sit.

[gus]

I herd atf works

[AngusJustice]

diesel fuel works great

[Nubbinz]

PB blaster melts Styrofoam, causes blindness if it gets in your eyes, and is known to the state of CA to cause cancer .. oh also it frees up seized engines.

[andersonee4]

marvel mystery oil

[ailll1]

I've managed to get to piston free by pounding it with a wood block and a mallet, but now I can't get the cylinder head off! Seems to be the holding by the gasket. I've hit the head with a rubber mallet in different directions but im affraid of breaking the fins by hitting harder.

Is there anyway I could get it to move without having to pry on something and break stuff?

[tri again]

I've managed to get to piston free by pounding it with a wood block and a mallet, but now I can't get the cylinder head off! Seems to be the holding by the gasket. I've hit the head with a rubber mallet in different directions but im affraid of breaking the fins by hitting harder.

Is there anyway I could get it to move without having to pry on something and break stuff?

so the head is stuck to the jug?
First pic looks like it's already off.
Either way, if the head is stuck,
Maybe someone used gasket sealer on the head gasket
for whatever reason.
Heat?
Is the engine in the frame?
If it was just the head and jug, you could maybe bbq it or boil it in a
bucket to loosen the gasket.

I had an old triumph head that took me weeks to get off.
Lots and lots of wooden wedges like you'd split for firewood kindling.
Tap 'em in all around and try to get the head off as level and parallel as possible.

Some else has had to have this problem before.
Does the search key work for you?

[Chazz of Blades]

If you're extra careful not to nick the head, you can take those small little screwdrivers and drive them in under the jug to lift it up, then go up a size, and then up a size, and so on. And PB Blaster, mixed with Seafoam, works wonderful as an unseizer.


I don't recommend it, but what I've done before was filled the bottom end with diesel and gear oil, the top end with seafoam and PB, let it soak for a couple days, and then put a 2 foot cheater bar and socket on the flywheel nut and rock it back and forth. Don't just try and force it loose all at once, go forward a bit, roll back, smooth it out, and then push forward more.

[leevarnado]

Take the cylinder studs out and try twisting and pulling up on the jug.

[ailll1]

so the head is stuck to the jug? Actualy, its the jug that is stuck on the bottom end of the engine, sorry if I was hard to understand.
Right now the engine is out of the frame, piston moves freely, but the jug wont budge even a bit. I might try to drive a tiny jewelry screwdriver as I dont plan on reusing both jug and bottom end... but I'd prefer to keep these in a reusable shape if I need spare parts.
I also filled stud holes with pb blaster to make sure dowel pins arent rusted or frozen in there.
Any help is greatly appreciated!

[ailll1]

Take the cylinder studs out and try twisting and pulling up on the jug.
What about dowel pins? Is there any?

[yamaha driver]

use a rubber hammer and beat the SH*T out of it.. it will come out

[Chazz of Blades]

use a rubber hammer and beat the SH*T out of it.. it will come out


Don't do this.

[mohadib]

Why not Chazz

[Chazz of Blades]

Rubber or not, just going crazy beating something with a hammer always leads to issues. The problem with rubber is that it bounces, if you make a miss-whack and it bounces off hard enough, you can end up whacking something you REALLY don't want whacked. And it is possible to break fins with a rubber mallet if you "beat the SH*T out of it".


Careful is the name of the game when doing any mechanics work, I learned that the hard way.

[mohadib]

I have removed jugs with controlled burst of vigorous beating with rubber mallets. You are right though, control is good.

[leevarnado]

Yes there is a couple dowel pins but they are only about a 1/4 inch in height.



What about dowel pins? Is there any?

[yamaha driver]

ok.... i never hurt a cylinder or anything yet hitting it hard with a rubber hammer.. if you have hand eye cordination you can stop the hammer from bouncing back....

[just ben]

I use a wood dowel positioned where it won't break anything and a deadblow hammer. A couple whacks on the front then a couple on the back just enough to break it free then wiggle it up off the dowels and it should come right off. DO NOT twist the cylinder,thats a fast way to tweak the connecting rod

[tri again]

Actualy, its the jug that is stuck on the bottom end of the engine, sorry if I was hard to understand.
Right now the engine is out of the frame, piston moves freely, but the jug wont budge even a bit. I might try to drive a tiny jewelry screwdriver as I dont plan on reusing both jug and bottom end... but I'd prefer to keep these in a reusable shape if I need spare parts.
I also filled stud holes with pb blaster to make sure dowel pins arent rusted or frozen in there.
Any help is greatly appreciated!

Any way to use heat to break the seal? torch around the bottom of the jug and then let it cool?
Does it look stock? or like someone glued the gasket.
Did the rod or something else hit the jug and warp it? peening it in there for ever?
Did this one ever run that you know of?

The ultimate would be to freeze the jug and heat the case.
CO2 fire extinguisher? to blast the jug and shrink it?
Would dry ice crystallize and break everything?
Jeweler screwdrivers, thin paint scrapers, gasket scraper. if it's never going back together and MUST come apart, some single edge razor blades may
get you started.
Safety glasses for sure. NOthing is worth risking your vision.

My fav hammers are shot filled dead blows that don't bounce but fins do break.

There should be enough connecting rod play to let it move a thousandths or so.
heck, you may just find another whole engine for next to nothing in the time you're fooling with this one.

Trikes DO have guardian angles.

[ailll1]

Thanks everyone! I finally had the jug off! I think the dowel pins were holding it in place. pb blaster did the trick and came out after a couples of good whack on a mdf piece that I put against the head so that the force applied would distribute to all fins. Once it moved a bit, it came out pretty easily.

I've got the tranny apart and I'm ready to tear down my X engine for the 6speed swap.

Thanks again!

[oscarmayer]

dumb question, did you remove the bolt that holds the jug down? it's on the rotator assembly side.

[oscarmayer]

post up details ont he 6speed swap. i am thinking of doing that 1 myself.

[ailll1]

post up details ont he 6speed swap. i am thinking of doing that 1 myself.

Will do for sure. I just wont be able to put everything back together until I receive my gasket kit, so it may take a while. Need to back cut kickstarter gears aswell.